[ant76p]

Hi guys.
 i have just bought a i30 1.6crdi premium on a 57 plate.
the problem is the clutch bite is about 10mm from the floor. and it is tight to select the gears.
i still bought the car as i viewed 3 different i30 s and they all had the same issue but this was the right price even if a clutch is needed.
i was wondering if anyone else has come against this problem and if there is a easy fix before we start going down the path of master cylinder and clutch.
Any help would be great

[Dazzler]

Welcome ant76p,
Funny how these things go in "runs" You are about the 3rd member in a week to mention this low clutch take up. It seems to be fairly normal for manual i30's and is not normally a problem. I would just get the manual transmission oil changed. I think moderator Asterix amongst others might know which oil to use. Or our Top tech Tim...

[cruiserfied]

Manual gear oil spec is 75w/85 GL-4.

[Asterix]

I changed the gear oil at around 190.000 km and it cured the notchy gearchange, especially below +10ºC

Oil used is Castrol Syntrans 75W-85

The bite point is just above the floor even now it have done 246.000 km. 

[MetalDan]

I just bought a 2011 FD 6 speed manual and complained about the low clutch take up, as Dazzler said apparently that's normal for these cars

[crayman]

10mm from the floor simply isn't right.
If the Hyundai 'mechanics' can't do better I'd take it to a clutch specialist.
You need to ensure there's no lost travel due to air in the system or even a worn master cylinder.
The slave cylinder isn't adjustable but a real clutch shop will have dimensions for checking finger height and setting the throw-out lever when a new clutch is fitted.
(The pivot ball is shimmed to set the throw-out lever correctly)
Unfortunately the average mechanic will simply trust everything is going to be just right when he fits an exchange assembly.
That's the difference between a clutch specialist and the average mechanic.
As a clutch driven plate wears, the pedal will rise and eventually you'll have a decent pedal.
But it may take so long that it's worn out just when the pedal height is correct.

 

[Paolo5]

10mm from the floor simply isn't right.
If the Hyundai 'mechanics' can't do better I'd take it to a clutch specialist.
You need to ensure there's no lost travel due to air in the system or even a worn master cylinder.
The slave cylinder isn't adjustable but a real clutch shop will have dimensions for checking finger height and setting the throw-out lever when a new clutch is fitted.
(The pivot ball is shimmed to set the throw-out lever correctly)
Unfortunately the average mechanic will simply trust everything is going to be just right when he fits an exchange assembly.
That's the difference between a clutch specialist and the average mechanic.
As a clutch driven plate wears, the pedal will rise and eventually you'll have a decent pedal.
But it may take so long that it's worn out just when the pedal height is correct.

Hi Crayman,
Are you saying that in order for a clutch specialist to rectify this problem in a newly-fitted clutch that the gearbox might need to be removed again?

[crayman]

Yes.
If the hydraulic system checks out, no lost motion from trapped air or poorly adjusted/faulty master cylinder,  there's nothing more to be done externally.
A clutch specialist will do these checks and then advise your options.

[Paolo5]

Would that be the same scenario for an i30 clutch that releases right up near the top of the pedal's travel?

[Doggie 1]

Again, I would have thought that a low take up point as opposed to a high take up point would indicate a clutch that is in good condition.
Worn clutches are almost fully out before they operate.

[crayman]

I haven't crawled under the dash of Mr's i-30 to check, but master cylinders usually have an adjustable push rod.
This will give a small tolerance to alter a too high take up point especially if the "up" stop is also adjustable.
The "up" stop is usually the cruise control switch on most cars, again I haven't checked the Hyundai's.
This same adjustment can also alter a too low pedal but not as successfully.
One also has to know how much free travel to leave or the system will pump up.
We're fortunate in that her clutch has always been quite a soft pedal that to me, has a normal take up position.
The 32 on the other hand, even with vacuum assist, is a heavy clutch that needed tinkering with pedal height to sit the pedal in a suitable position for comfortable driving.
All these problems are eliminated if the various dimensions in the clutch assembly are set up properly.
 

[meirion]

Hi ant76p have the same problem with our 2010 I30 and only has 50k on the clock, found the clutch had become heavy and was hard to get into 1st and reverse sometimes, so completely bled through the hydraulic system with new brake and clutch fluid and after problem was sorted. Found the clutch was easier to operate and can get gears, however the bite point is still very close to the floor but this has been the case since the car was new. Hope this helps

[ibrokeit]

Didn't someone just have a similar issue with "bite point" being very close to floor/low - I think it was during some other gearbox related work...

And the service place replaced one of the clutch cylinders (was it the slave?? I don't recall) and now the "bite point" is significantly higher?

[ant76p]

i have persisted for the last week to see if i just need to get use to it but i think that's the way to go.
thanks