i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => GENERAL => Topic started by: naser_1998x on December 12, 2017, 01:03:40
-
Hey guys, I have a Hyundai i30 2011 FD 1.6. I want to bleed the breaks on it, however, which wheel do you recommend to start with first? every person on youtube says something different. Also, do you recommend the one person method or the two person method? Which is the most safest?
And is DOT 3 better than DOT 4 break fluid or scrap all that and get the genuine Hyundai brake fluid?
And is there torque specs for the screw that you take off to bleed the valve?
Many thanks
-
According to repair manual the bleeding order in i30 is:
1. Rear right
2. Front left
3. Rear left
4. Front right
I've always used 2 person method (as it is so easy if there is second person available) and dot 4. Dot 4 has higher boiling point than dot 3.
-
According to repair manual the bleeding order in i30 is:
1. Rear right
2. Front left
3. Rear left
4. Front right
I've always used 2 person method (as it is so easy if there is second person available) and dot 4. Dot 4 has higher boiling point than dot 3.
Left hand drive or right hand drive?
The method I've always used has been work from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. If this method is used, obviously it matters whether or not the master cylinder is moved when the steering column is.
-
Location is same for all. Have you checked out the setup we have? Our pedal is like a driving school slave setup where our pedal is attached to a steel tube that's mounted across the bulkhead and attuates the master which is mounted in front of the passenger. LHD would be a traditional pedal box I suspect
-
Location is same for all. Have you checked out the setup we have? Our pedal is like a driving school slave setup where our pedal is attached to a steel tube that's mounted across the bulkhead and attuates the master which is mounted in front of the passenger. LHD would be a traditional pedal box I suspect
I thought that was the case on my FD but couldn't remember for sure.
-
Which brand of dot 4 do you usually use?
-
Which brand of dot 4 do you usually use?
Castrol :link: Castrol Brake Fluid - DOT 4, 500mL - Supercheap Auto (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Castrol-Brake-Fluid-DOT-4-500mL/100250?menuFrom=1021660) or Nulon :link: Nulon Xtreme Performance Brake Fluid - Super DOT 4, 500mL - Supercheap Auto (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Nulon-Xtreme-Performance-Brake-Fluid-Super-DOT-4-500mL/33147?menuFrom=1021660)
-
According to repair manual the bleeding order in i30 is:
1. Rear right
2. Front left
3. Rear left
4. Front right
I've always used 2 person method (as it is so easy if there is second person available) and dot 4. Dot 4 has higher boiling point than dot 3.
Left hand drive or right hand drive?
The method I've always used has been work from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder. If this method is used, obviously it matters whether or not the master cylinder is moved when the steering column is.
With previous cars I also used the distance method. It was a new thing for me with i30 to bleed front left before rear right. Could it be that first two are in the same brake fluid circuit? I would guess the distance method works with i30 also...
-
I've never thought much about the sequence, just went ahead. Make sure to bleed at least 0,25L at every wheel.
I always just do it by myself. When I have to have the brake pedal hold down to the floor I use a piece of wood or whetever handy, to place between the brake pedal and the seat, then slide the seat forward. Now brake pedal is at the bottom and you can get out to close the bleeder screw.
Which brand of dot 4 do you usually use?
Doesn't matter, just make sure it's DOT 4
-
A good video is this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc). He shows you the two methods one with the one person method (near the end) and the other is with the two person method. And it seems like the one person method is much easier than the two.
Also, you don't have to do that thing with the chair your to close the bleeder.
Look at how he does it on his own.
Maybe your life would be easier the next time you bleed the breaks?
-
Some good info in this thread. Maybe i will move it to non model specific and Pin it! :idea:
-
rear the farthest from reservoir then next should be drivers side rear then passenger side rear divers front passenger front dot 4 fluid
-
alaster do you know the diameter of the bleeder head? So a vinyl tube can fit over the head tightly without letting air in?
-
alaster do you know the diameter of the bleeder head? So a vinyl tube can fit over the head tightly without letting air in?
Hoses for windscreen washer system normally fits. Buy the clear type so you can see if there's air in the system.
-
always bleed the whell there is longest distance to the brake fluid container in the car.
-
Everyone on here has nailed it pretty much. I always use DoT 4 fluid, and buy a litre, and use it all up. Start by siphoning as much of the old fluid as you can out of the fluid reservoir, probably about 200ml. Re-fill with fresh fluid. Before starting to bleed, go around each bleed nipple with a tight-fitting socket, just to loosen them off. You don't want to find one that's seized up and you then round the corners off with an open-ended spanner. I used a glass jar with a strip of tape down the side which I marked in 100ml increments.
With the help of a second person to pump the pedal, I drained about 150ml from the rear left, then 200ml from the front right, then 150ml from rear right, 200ml from front right, another 50ml from rear left, by which time your bottle of fresh fluid should be almost empty. Bleed enough from the rear right so that the level in the reservoir is at the MAX mark with all the fluid used up. I don't keep partially-filled bottles of brake fluid as it can absorb moisture over time. Obviously, the fluid level will go down as the brake pads wear, but I've never found it dropping anywhere close to the MIN mark.
-
As an interesting sidenote, I found that you can often pick up the technically superior DOT 5.1 fluid cheaper than DOT 3 / 4 - I believe this is as folks get unsure about compatibility.
DOT 5.1 is compatible with anywhere DOT 3,4, Super 4 fluids are needed - but it is NOT to be confused with DOT 5, which is NOT compatible.
Bit of a shitty naming process there IMHO - and this seems to fool folks but keep your eye out as I've gotten branded 5.1 cheaper than the entry level DOT3 and can only put this down to folks being unsure about it.
Also many DOT 5.1 makers are silly in not labelling their product as compatible with the other gradings - whereas Penrite DO THIS.