[Duckman]

It appears that in my 2.0L manual petrol (no idea if its the same in the diesel range), that I can get it into reverse 50% of the time, and the other 50% it "clicks" into gear, before I slowly come off the clutch to hear the famous grinding noise.

What can I do to increase my chances of actually engaging reverse more often? It really annoys me when I'm making a reverse out of a car spot, or a friend's place, with them all standing around, when it sounds like the cogs are grinding each other down!!

[MRH130]

You'll probably find that this improves as the car gets older, but it's one of those things that is hard to avoid happening from time to time.

It is caused by the cogs in the gearbox not being able to mesh.

You could try letting the brake off and letting the car roll (even an inch would do the trick) to allow the gears to mesh, or try putting it in neutral, letting the clutch out and then putting the clutch back in and selecting reverse again. The idea is to get either the input (engine) or output (car) side of the gearbox to move, so that the gears will be in a different position and may be able to mesh better.

If you want to be sure it will engage there is another way but it's not very kind to the car... If you feel the "click" and think it hasn't engaged properly, hold the lever forward as though you're still trying to select reverse as you slowly release the clutch. That way when the clutch bites it will move the input shaft and your pressure on the gear lever will cause the gears to mesh and you'll be in reverse.

Like I said that's not very kind, but I have been known to do it when in a hurry.   

It appears that in my 2.0L manual petrol (no idea if its the same in the diesel range), that I can get it into reverse 50% of the time, and the other 50% it "clicks" into gear, before I slowly come off the clutch to hear the famous grinding noise.

What can I do to increase my chances of actually engaging reverse more often? It really annoys me when I'm making a reverse out of a car spot, or a friend's place, with them all standing around, when it sounds like the cogs are grinding each other down!!

I'll have a go at this...

When selecting reverse, the two gears that you are trying to slide together will generally both be stationary - one because you have the clutch in which disconnects the rotating engine from it, and the other because the car is stopped (the second gear is "connected" to the wheels).  Because a tooth on one gear needs to align with a gap between teeth on the other gear in order to slide together you are reliant on them being favourably aligned else one tooth simply butts the other causing the problem you have. 

A technique that can be used to improve the chances of success is to force one gear to rotate as you engage the gears.  Not pushing in the clutch will do that but unfortunately this will simply grind the gears but if you push the clutch in just before you push the stick into gear you will have nearly 100% success.

Why this works is because if the engine is running and the gears are in neutral (and the clutch is engaged - i.e., not pushed in) one of the two gears will be stationary and the other will be spinning with the engine and it will continue to spin for a short while after the clutch is pushed in until the oil slows it to a stop.  So if you push the gears together while one is still spinning they will sort of grind together until a tooth finds a gap and they slip together.  In practice they find a gap immediately with little discernible noise apart from a small clunk perhaps as the spinning gear is brought to an abrupt halt as it engages.  If you do hear the clunk it will also give audible feedback that it has actually engaged

Having said all that, as came up in another thread, the gearbox is cable operated from the gearstick and could require adjustment.
 
Edit:  I was sidetracked during my post and see that MRH130 responded before me with similar information in far fewer words 

[MRH130]

A technique that can be used to improve the chances of success is to force one gear to rotate as you engage the gears.  Not pushing in the clutch will do that but unfortunately this will simply grind the gears but if you push the clutch in just before you push the stick into gear you will have nearly 100% success.

Why this works is because if the engine is running and the gears are in neutral (and the clutch is engaged - i.e., not pushed in) one of the two gears will be stationary and the other will be spinning with the engine and it will continue to spin for a short while after the clutch is pushed in until the oil slows it to a stop.  So if you push the gears together while one is still spinning they will sort of grind together until a tooth finds a gap and they slip together.  In practice they find a gap immediately with little discernible noise apart from a small clunk perhaps as the spinning gear is brought to an abrupt halt as it engages.  If you do hear the clunk it will also give audible feedback that it has actually engaged

Having said all that, as came up in another thread, the gearbox is cable operated from the gearstick and could require adjustment.
 

Good point Pip, however IMHO your technique is more likely to result in a graunch as the gears engage (if done too fast). Practice at timing when you press the clutch and when you move the lever would help avoid that though. I think a lot of the time when this happens it will be just after the vehicle is started and as we all know the clutch must be in for the vehicle to start. Slightly counter-intuitive to take the foot off the clutch and then put it back on prior to selecting a gear, but definitely worth Duckman giving it a go. And much kinder to the car than my last suggestion. 

I think a lot of the time when this happens it will be just after the vehicle is started and as we all know the clutch must be in for the vehicle to start. Slightly counter-intuitive to take the foot off the clutch and then put it back on prior to selecting a gear...

On that point and slightly OT, I have always allowed the gearbox to turn over before moving off (start in neutral - no clutch) in my possibly mistaken belief that it helps to "oil" the bits before using.

So am not a fan of the clutch in requirement. 

[tzwientjuh]

Same here with my 1.4 petrol 
I had it in the begining, now its been .... 4 months maybe, with instantly getting in reverse

Same here with my 1.4 petrol 
I had it in the begining, now its been .... 4 months maybe, with instantly getting in reverse

Same here.  Or maybe it is me getting used to the technique required to put it in reverse.

Bob

[whitbomb07]

Just to make sure (and by no means criticising your intelligence) are you lifting the latch to engage reverse?

Nobody has mentioned it so I thought I would check, when I first test drove the i30 I didn't realise (myself) this had to be done to engage reverse. I didn't crunch gears, I just couldn't get it into reverse. After reading about it I realised I had to lift the little holder below the knob to engage reverse.

Otherwise, sorry I can't help, I've had no major problems with my vehicle (CRDi) getting into reverse. Every now and again I have to 'play' with it a little bit (when cold). But other than that, no major issues.

Regards

Daniel

[bumpkin]

In my experience this does ease with time, but is still a bit sticky on mine.

My technique is...............

1.  Engage reverse gear.................can I trust it   Probably not
2.  Whilst maintaining fingertip pressure on the gear lever, lift the clutch pedal slowly.
3.  If the car was not in gear it will slip in without the famous grind.
4.  Reverse as normal.

 

[tji30]

If mine doesn't go in first pop, I just put it back in Neutral, foot off clutch, foot on clutch, try again. Usually goes in 2nd time. All the cars I've had have done this from time to time so I just think it's quite normal.

[Duckman]

OK thanks guys. I think I'm starting to get a few more km's on the car too which helps "soften" a few things in and about the car. I was lifting the lifty thing on the gear knob, so it wasn't that!! 

[tzwientjuh]

I had it many times before. The gears just weren't close enough and they just scratched each other. With a liltle puch to the front, you can hear the gears click and match. (hope you all understand)

I could make a vid of it ... I look for my camera now

[2i30s]

i had same problem up to about 300kms and it has gone away,ive done 1100kms now and it hasnt done it since about 300or 400kms,i found if you held gearstick as you disengaged cluch it helped stay in.  steve

[kymbolino]

I agree with tji30. In the morning when I've started my i30 2.0 petrol for the first time that day I need to "double cluch", i.e. put the gear into neutral and engage the clutch first before then trying to go into reverse. I've also noticed sometimes in the evenings when I leave work and I haven't driven the car for 8 hours or so it will happen then too. Once it's up and running its fine though.

Now I know how to work it I dont find it much of an inconvenience. I've done about 5500kms and it's still happening.

[GordonG]

Never had a problem with mine... 

[Lakes]

I agree with tji30. In the morning when I've started my i30 2.0 petrol for the first time that day I need to "double cluch", i.e. put the gear into neutral and engage the clutch first before then trying to go into reverse. I've also noticed sometimes in the evenings when I leave work and I haven't driven the car for 8 hours or so it will happen then too. Once it's up and running its fine though.

Now I know how to work it I dont find it much of an inconvenience. I've done about 5500kms and it's still happening.

What you need to do to ensure you have possitive reverse engaugement is when you have foot on clutch fully depressed, & gear shift pushed into reverse, keep pushing on gear shift then ease out clutch to put a load on the gear, as you do this if gear not right in you feel the gear shift move forward into possitive reverse. i do this to double check never have a problem now.

Gordon go for the R mate LOL