i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: steplay on July 19, 2019, 17:11:57
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Hi all
Just noticed this problem the other day and wonder if anyone could give some help.when I take the handbrake of the red handbrake light comes on even though it is off.if I hold the handbrake down it will go off then it will come on if the road is bumpy,or it will blink.
Been told it could be a faulty sensor or low brake fluid. Any ideas or is that the problem.car is a hyundai i30 2010 uk model.
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Hi all
Just noticed this problem the other day and wonder if anyone could give some help.when I take the handbrake of the red handbrake light comes on even though it is off.if I hold the handbrake down it will go off then it will come on if the road is bumpy,or it will blink.
Been told it could be a faulty sensor or low brake fluid. Any ideas or is that the problem.car is a hyundai i30 2010 uk model.
Well I'm fairly confident you can ignore low brake fluid given the symptoms, but check it anyway. I'd hate to say you did not and you did.
If you hold the hand brake down it goes off, suggests there's an adjustment issue, or maybe bad switch. How much free play is there in the hand brake / cable?
It should sit there and have enough tension to keep it at the home position without it bouncing around.
How many clicks to the fully on position? 7 clicks would be ideal
Otherwise you'll have to remove the centre console and have a look at what is happening with the switch.
(https://i.ibb.co/crGzwf9/1.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qrtbCq8)
(https://i.ibb.co/VY5cj27/2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/k2vsHQR)
(https://i.ibb.co/Hx7L41L/3.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
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If the handbrake is becoming slack, when you lift up the cover in the centre console to adjust the nut, make sure the equalising bar is fairly straight when the handbrake is on. If it's at an angle, the lever mechanism at one of the rear brake has probably seized up with rust. The brake shoes on that side then wear down pretty quickly. Strip down the rear brakes, free off the lever and put a bit of grease on the pivot. Replace the brake shoes if they're worn out, and re-adjust using the adjuster in the brake drum. Then use the adjuster nut under the console to set the 20kg force at 7 clicks. I've had to do it a couple of times, it's always been the rear left that rusts up.
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Like brendan said...
If you adjust the hand brake pads, the manual says you'll need to tighten the brake pad "expander" until the rotor will not move anymore. Then adjust it 3 clicks back. After that they recommend driving few hundred meters with few clicks on from the hand brake lever to grind the hand brake pads level with the rotor, but I never did that. I just drove about 500km (normal driving) and adjusted the brake pads again from the rear hub. After that I adjusted the hand brake lever. After time the linkage in the hand brake asselbly tends to stuck. I had to take it out from the car and hammer it open. After opening I cleaned it and lubricated it with brake grease. Has been working flawlessy after that prodecure.
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Hello folks,
I have exactly this very same problem.
Below is a picture of my equalising bar:
(https://i.ibb.co/k9BvY49/DSC-0038.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0F2vPCF)
Presumably I have an issue with the lever mechanism. As a DIYer, how easy would it be to do this myself, or am I just as well to get a local friendly mechanic to have a bash for me?
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It is fairly easy. Man made machines. No need for special tools. Can of wd-40 or similar would be good for getting the linkage to move again. I recommend you change the hand brake pads while you are down there. First side took me 1.5 hours, but I did not hurry and it took some time for me to find the reason for the brake issues. Other side took only 45min from start to finish.
But if you have doubt about your skills, take it to a mechanic. You don't want drive a car with brakes that may work, or not.