[skeffen]

Hey all

I am new to this forum .

I have a problem with my trailer power outlet on my 2013 i30 st car. I get no running or brake light, but I have fine turning lights.

Its a workshop mounted Jaeger electrical system. I am not able to find any fuses where the Jaeger manuels say they are.

Do any of you have a suggestion to what can be wrong?

In advance thank you.

[Phil №❶]

Find a good earthing point and check out the outlet with a test lamp or multimeter to see what's active and what's not. Check with the original wiring diagram to make sure all is fitted correctly.

[skeffen]

Hello Phil. Thank you for your reply.

I have tested the outlet with a multimeter. Thats how i found out the im only getting turning lights, and not brake light or running light.

The orginal wiring diagram, is that for the car, or for the Jaeger electronics ?

[Phil №❶]

The Jaeger electronics.

Have you checked the car fuses in the fuse box by the driver's door ?

[skeffen]

Yes I have looked in the fuse box in the cars cabine. Accodring to Jaegers documentation there should be 2 chords with fuses attachted to the fuse box.

I only see one chord and i suspect this is for the speed pilot..

See my attached picture.

[Phil №❶]

If this mod has recently been done, it may be best to return to the installer and state your concerns rather than tinker with it yourself.

[skeffen]

I have tried to remove the chord, and I still get turn signal on the outlet. So I do not think it is that one.

It is 3 year ago. But I have tried contacting the installer, but still no luck on that.

[Phil №❶]

Well, I can only suggest finding the source of power for the fitting and after having noted how it is connected, remove and see if running & brake lights reappear.

BTW when you say no brake lights, is this on a trailer or on the car as well 

[skeffen]

All lights are fine on the car. It is only on the trailer outlet i am missing brake light and running lights.

[Phil №❶]

How is the trailer grounded. Do your lights have 2 wires to each light, or just 1 wire and the ground through the trailer body.

[skeffen]

I dont know how the trailer is grounded. I have tried the trailer on 2 other cars, and there is no problems with the lights on them.

I have tested my own car outlet with a multimeter, to conclude that the cars does not send out the stop and run lights. When i test with the multimeter i use the ground in the outlet socket to test with.

[Phil №❶]

It must be grounding ok if you have turning lights, assuming 1 wire to the lights. Try testing your outlet using a known ground, not the one in the outlet.

It would be advisable to check the continuity of all the offending trailer wires to eliminate the risk of a broken feed or earth wire before attempting the suggestion below.

I don't want to mess with the original hook-up but if it were mine, I'd identify the running light pin, by turning on the park lights and testing which pin is active at the outlet and also do the same with the brakes, then take the corresponding trailer wires and re-route them to the corresponding active pins in the outlet.

[skeffen]

Thank you for your reply How do I find a known ground?

[Phil №❶]

Look for a substantial bolt on the car chassis. The suspension  or the towbar should do.

[skeffen]

Okay thank you. I will try that. If i get voltage when I do that, it is a ground problem and I should check the grounding points of the wiring to the trailer outlet on the car?

[Phil №❶]

Yes, If the lights have 2 wires, then 1 will be a ground, but it is most common to run 1 wire and the metal of the trailer is grounded through contact with the tow bar. Not the best solution, but cheaper to manufacture. I had a similar grounding problem with my trailer so I used a spare terminal and ran a wire from ground on the car, through the trailer plug and welded the other end onto the trailer, no more problems.

[Asterix]

Hi skeffen

Do you have 7 or 13 pin connector..?

When only using running lights - DRL - the rear lights wont be illuminated on a 2013 model. You need to activate the lights, but I guess you already know that. However, that should not affect the brake lights at all anyway.

[Asterix]

You can find the schematics here, but no matter if you have 7 or 13 pin it will be the same ground for all lights, so when you say you have ok turn signals the I believe we can rule out the missing grounding.

http://www.tosken.dk/PDF%20filer/Tilslutningsskema%20for%207%20og%2013%20pol%20trailerstik.pdf

If you want to check the ground set your multimeter to ohm and measure from pin 3 to a metal point. There shouldn't' be more than a few ohm's, if more, then grounding is bad.

I would remove the left sidewall in the boot and look for the cables. They might just be attached in a multiconnector. mine are. The 2 cables you mention that should be drawn all the way up to the fuse box will be for the extra 12 volt needed for fridge or similar if you tow a caravan.

It's a shame you're in the other end of the country...

[Asterix]

Another thing to try is disassemble the socket and check if the cables/leads are not connected thoroughly to the pins with light and brake light.

[skeffen]

Hello all

Thank you for all your help. It turned out that it was a fuse that was gone bad. I replaced it and it worked again.

Now I have to wait at see if the fuse melts again...

[Shambles]

Yes I have looked in the fuse box in the cars cabine...

Just goes to show that simply 'looking' often isn't enough

Glad it's fixed

[Asterix]

Hello all

Thank you for all your help. It turned out that it was a fuse that was gone bad. I replaced it and it worked again.

Now I have to wait at see if the fuse melts again...

Just curious, which single fuse can have both DRL and brake lights not work..?