i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => GENERAL => Topic started by: XinZhao on January 18, 2017, 20:00:47
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Hello! :)
I think my hand break was serviced 50 k km ago so i think it needs adjustment. So, is there a "walkthrough" for that?
I know how to open the bottom of the "behind-handbreak-compartment, and I can probably adjust there the tightness, but is there a need for checking and greasing the part that is in the wheel? When i get my back tire off, is it easy to get to the drum, and is there something I am supposed to do? I know that i need 20 kg on 7th click (by the book) and last time I checked (half a year ago) it was only 10 kilograms at seventh clikck.
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When the wheel is removed you can remove the little rubber grommet placed in the rotor/drum front. When removed, you can adjust the handbrake pads with a screwdriver through the hole. I can't remember for sure, but I think the hole must be in top position when you adjust.
Adjust until you can't rotate the disc, and the release a little again (3 notches) Repeat on opposite side.
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Hello! :)
I think my hand break was serviced 50 k km ago so i think it needs adjustment. So, is there a "walkthrough" for that?
I know how to open the bottom of the "behind-handbreak-compartment, and I can probably adjust there the tightness, but is there a need for checking and greasing the part that is in the wheel? When i get my back tire off, is it easy to get to the drum, and is there something I am supposed to do? I know that i need 20 kg on 7th click (by the book) and last time I checked (half a year ago) it was only 10 kilograms at seventh clikck.
I'm not sure how to check 10 kg on 7th click. How do you check that??
Asterix wrote right procedure to adjust h-brake on disc side. But i think you need to release the ring in the drum by 5 notches not 3.
And for lubricating hand brake cables.. Only with silicone grease.
DISC BRAKE TYPE
1. Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.
2. Remove the rear tire and wheel.
3. Remove the plug from the disc.
4. Rotate the toothed wheel of adjuster by a screw driver until the disc is not moving, and then return it by 5 notches in the opposite direction.
(https://s23.postimg.org/6cycrk7rf/sunbr6029d.gif)
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You can use a spring weight scale (as for luggage) that measures as far as 20kg, attached to the centre of the grip on the handbrake handle, then pull up and watch, a bit like using a mechanical torque wrench.
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That is exactly how I measured mine. Airport luggage scale (my measures up to 40 kg). So the hole must be at the bottom side after all. Diesel, the arrow direction on the picture is for tightening, right?
So there is no job inside of the car after all? I have some silicon grease but where should I put it? I have it both as a paste and as a spray.
Also, my back wheel makes some short break-like noise when I hand-turn it around. Should I be concerned? Its like its always breaking but only for a short period of time at every turn, and the breaking is slight in power.
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Diesel, the arrow direction on the picture is for tightening, right?
Frende. promaj gore dole malo.. Nemreš puno fulati hehe.
i'm not sure. up is for tightening down to release i think. Well you can't go wrong with this.
Silicone grease is going on places where cable meets with the sleeve.
Why only silicone grease?? Because it will not swell the rubber inner part of the sleeve and your cable will last much longer.
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Thx mate :)
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Also, my back wheel makes some short break-like noise when I hand-turn it around. Should I be concerned? Its like its always breaking but only for a short period of time at every turn, and the breaking is slight in power.
You may be hearing the brake pads . It is normal for pads to have slight contact with the disc, without pressure applied from their respective callipers.
This helps to keep the pads dry during wet weather driving.
The rear wheels have a disc and pads for normal driving and also a separate brake drum and brake shoes for the parking brake.
The shoes do not wear or need adjustment because they run free of contact from the drum and are only applied when the vehicle is stationary.
Generally, the handbrake cables are also trouble free, unless you are really hauling on them, perhaps if you are on really steep terrain or have a caravan fetish :winker:
Areas where they may be exposed to salt should be clean and protected with some of your grease.
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Also, my back wheel makes some short break-like noise when I hand-turn it around. Should I be concerned? Its like its always breaking but only for a short period of time at every turn, and the breaking is slight in power.
You may be hearing the brake pads . It is normal for pads to have slight contact with the disc, without pressure applied from their respective callipers.
This helps to keep the pads dry during wet weather driving.
The rear wheels have a disc and pads for normal driving and also a separate brake drum and brake shoes for the parking brake.
The shoes do not wear or need adjustment because they run free of contact from the drum and are only applied when the vehicle is stationary.
Generally, the handbrake cables are also trouble free, unless you are really hauling on them, perhaps if you are on really steep terrain or have a caravan fetish :winker:
Areas where they may be exposed to salt should be clean and protected with some of your grease.
sorry for raising the topic, .. I changed the tyres to summer ones and wanted to realease a bit but I didnt memorize what you guys said, and I searched around the clock where i could see anything like toothed wheel through the little hole.. It was bright outside so the visibility was very bad, and I (stupid) didn't look thorougly at 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock.. I found something at 8 and 4. But it was just some distraction, couldn't do anything with it..
Anyway, just wanted to mention that the noise IS coming from the 'break shoes-break drum', not the pads, because i removed the break pads, and the noise (while rotating the wheel) remained.
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so you probably have some dirt inside the drum.
if it was touching, you would smell a burned brake smell after driving.
could be that the previous owner used to drift with the hand brake or used to stop for parking using the hand brake.
using the hand brake like that, could result in a distorted drum.
you could try driving in a very low speed, and slowly pull the hand brake. if you feel that the car is not stopping smoothly but stop and go,
then the drum is distorted.
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so you probably have some dirt inside the drum.
if it was touching, you would smell a burned brake smell after driving.
could be that the previous owner used to drift with the hand brake or used to stop for parking using the hand brake.
using the hand brake like that, could result in a distorted drum.
you could try driving in a very low speed, and slowly pull the hand brake. if you feel that the car is not stopping smoothly but stop and go,
then the drum is distorted.
yodm has made the main points well. If you are turning the wheel by hand then the shoes or dirt are not making much contact. I wouldn't worry about it. Leave it alone and it will eventually wear down slightly.
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Thx, I am the 1st owner.. and I don't misuse it. But I can't guarantee that sometimes when there is snow and slippery on some free space, I don't get carried away and try some crazy things :)
Anyhow, I am (sensitive) worried because I had to replace the shoes once - the left was burned as it got stuck.
Also, I have had the break pads stuck on the same wheel (left rear) - also burnedout
Thx guys
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But I can't guarantee that sometimes when there is snow and slippery on some free space, I don't get carried away and try some crazy things :)
That's why I would hate to get a car with that bloody electric handbrake... :mrgreen: :mrgreen: