[girth67]

My 130 estate 1.6 cdri makes a weird noise when accelerating around right hand bends ( does not happen in left handers). it sounds like a rasp from a loose exhaust or like the turbo is not happy, the sound is slightly like metallic scraping.The noise also occurs when I accelerate from lowish revs in 3rd 4th or 5th. IE when the car needs to use its torque to accelerate. however its not cause the revs are too low and the car is struggling.the car has been checked by Hyundai and although they agree there is a noise they cannot identify it, because they cannot re create it in the workshop.

I am thinking it might be one of two things

1. the turbo fan bearing has some slop and the fan is scraping against the body ( i dont know if this can happen)
2. there is a loose joint in the exhaust/turbo area.

Has anyone else had this noise, or help me out.

[Dazzler]

welcome girth67..

Can't recall such an issue (or noise) being mentioned before.. but lets try some brainstorming 

If the turbo was doing what you said it would blow (I.M.O.)

Hope someone can help you get it sorted (be patient some members only visit spasmodically)

[Shambles]

Hi girth67. Judging by the dirth of replies it would seem a strange/unknown fault you are reporting here.

I could be a total cock and say "stop accelerating round right hand bends" to cure it, but I won't right now.

Interesting that Hyundai acknowledge the problem but don't/can't take it further. I suppose if the problem sounds purely cosmetic to them (ie, they hear it but it doesn't cause driveability problems) then that's your "comeback" should anything occur during the lifetime of the warranty.

A strange one, indeed

[MRH130]

Hi girth,

Dazz is correct, if the turbo had anywhere near that much internal play it would be spitting oil everywhere and die completely in a very short space of time. That would also be easy for the dealer to check.

Sounds to me more like a loose baffle in a muffler or something. There is also a flexible link in the exhaust towards the front, which could be rattling under certain circumstances. The flexible link is essentially a braided section in the pipe. The dealer could check either of those fairly easily. If you have a slight mechanical bent, you can check the exhaust by climbing underneath and giving the exhaust a short firm, sharp tap with the palm of your hand, seeing whether you hear any rattle. It should move but shouldn't rattle from you doing this. Try it in different places along the length of the system. Also look for any part of the system that moves more than another, which might indicate a missing, weak or damaged exhaust hanger.

We also had an i30 once that was leaking boost around one of the intercooler pipes, which made a rattling-type noise.

We probably need more info to diagnose it properly. If the dealer can hear it when driving but can't find it, they need to keep looking. There are lots of noises cars only make when they're moving and they can't all be replicated on a hoist.

Can you hear the noise "through" the car itself or is it louder with the window down?

Can you "feel" the noise through the floor, steering or seat? or can you only hear it?

Does the car feel 100% normal in terms of on-road feel and performance? 

[Dazzler]

Can you hear the noise "through" the car itself or is it louder with the window down?

Can you "feel" the noise through the floor, steering or seat? or can you only hear it?

Does the car feel 100% normal in terms of on-road feel and performance? 

 

Now that's a man with experience talkin' 

[MRH130]

haha tracing rattles and stray noises, the former bane of my life! Can't help myself, there's so much satisfaction when you fix the problem! 

[eye30]

Do you only hear the noise if there is a high wall/hedge or similar?

If so, then it will be the noise from the car bouncing off.

If in the open then take it back to the dealer to check out.

[girth67]

Thanks for the advice so far.
answering some questions; I hear the noise through the car but i cant feel it. does not seem to be louder with the windows open. the cars performance is great, no problems in that area. re the braided hose I have been under the car and checked that even with the engine running cant seem to get it to make the noise whilst shaking that (wearing my oldest motorbike gloves).

Im taking it back to the dealer soon as the noise is occuring more frequently. if they find anything I'll post it until then I'll keep searching.

Im sorting out a route to work only going round left hand bends, but it may take some time.

[MRH130]

if you can feel it through the car and it's neither less nor more audible with the window down, I would suggest it might be a clearance issue somewhere causing NVH to be transmitted in to the car itself. If you still feel like playing around yourself, try looking for anything (hoses, brackets etc) in or under the engine bay that might be out of place or too close to a part of the body, such as the chassis rails, the firewall or the subframe. If it's happening when you turn left, think of how things will be moved by the G forces when you turn and look for things that might be too close in that direction.

If you can't see anything there, have a good look at all the engine mounts, making especially the one on the right hand side of the car, making sure that all the rubber is there and not folded or damaged.

These sorts of noises can be tricky to find, but we've put men on the moon so we should be able to fix a little rattle.

I would try the exhaust check with the engine off, if there is a rattle in the system you will hear it but it will sound different to when the engine is running. Still indicative that the problem might be in there.

Little story: We had a car come to our dealership (not a Hyundai), and it went beautifully, but whenever the clutch was depressed with the revs above about 4000rpm (including gear changes and the like) there was the most horrific buzzing noise through the whole car until the revs dropped below that. It had been there since the car was new and the owner had had it in at another dealer about 10 times for it. They'd replaced the clutch, flywheel, engine mounts, etc etc but it wouldn't get any better. The owner was losing it and brought it to us as a last resort before he was going to sell it. After about 3 hours playing with it, we noticed that one of the hydraulic pipes for the from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder was ever so slightly bent towards the lower radiator support panel, had obviously not been installed quite right.  We gave the pipe a tiny tweak and bingo, the noise was gone. The pipe was receiving a natural harmonic from the engine at high revs and vibrating enough to just slightly touch the body and make this awful noise.

The moral is, it's sometimes difficult to find these things, and they're not always a major problem.

I'm sure yours will be easier to find. It might not seem like it, but the fact that it's getting worse is actually a good thing. It'll be easier to spot. 

[Blue]

If the turbo was doing what you said it would blow (I.M.O.)

Sorry Dazz, can't resist this:

Unless I am seriously mistaken, BLOW is what turbo's do !

[Dazzler]

Sorry Dazz, can't resist this:

Unless I am seriously mistaken, BLOW is what turbo's do !

 

Good point Blue..

I give it so I've got to take it too

[bumpkin]

In my experience knocking noises when accelerating and cornering at the same time could be caused by a faulty CV joint.  Check the rubber boots are not burst on the drive shafts, if one has lost it's tether to the shaft casing then the grease will escape and then it dries out the joint which then grates the splines on the drive shaft.  This needs repaired immediately, if it is not too bad a replacement boot can cure it but if it has been allowed to go on then it can mean drive shaft replacement.

Before I bought the i30 new, whenever I have tested a second hand car I have always gone to a car park and tried accelerating the car in both a left and right hand circle whilst listening for the noise of a worn drive shaft.

Only a thought

Brian

[2i30s]

it could be the plastic inner mud guard vibrating.