i30 Owners Club

i30 FD - Throttle problem?

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline LemurMort

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 52

    • hr Croatia
Hello!
Recently I've been having occasional problems when accelerating. Let me explain what happens:

1. Usually after start after waiting 30-60s I'd start rolling from a parking lot to the main street.
If another car is approaching from the main street I step on a gas pedal when needed and all I get is no change in RPMs which is a bummer if the approaching car is coming faster than I expect. It's only a bad visibility from my street, not my suicide wishes :D
This goes on for a second or two and then it starts picking up the RPMs.
This would happen mostly after start and later during driving everything is OK.
Never had check engine lamp light up for this.

2 During driving when I wanted to accelerate the car would loose power for a milisecond. I could easily feel bouncing. This happened for only 1,5 days. (On my way to work, back home and next day to work). Still, got me worried.

3. When driving slowly and I'm below 2000 RPMs if I want to accelerate without changing to lower gear I can feel bouncing. This happened to me on a Getz 1.4 and the culprits were bad sparkplug cables. But i30 is different.

In the last month or so I've replaced 3 bobbins. Could it be the fourth one that's causing all the trouble? Again, never had I check engine lamp light up for this.
I scanned ECU and no errors. The guys at the service told me the same thing.
Or is it throttle position sensor?
Or the throttle itself?

Throw ideas, suggestions if you have. All is welcome :)

Thanks! :)
  • 2010 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.4 + LPG, Manual, Red


Offline Aye30

  • 3rd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 172

    • au Australia
      Perth
Hi,  just to let you know, the check engine light wont always come on and set a cylinder misfire code, unless it meets a minimum threshold. I went for weeks trying to find the cause of the jerky acceleration (also no codes or lights), then one day it got really bad and turned on the check engine light and gave me a code.


Offline tw2005

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,362

    • au Australia
      Ipswich
If the service guys have the gear and it can be replicated, maybe they could flight record the vehicle on various sensors and data and see if there are any abnormalities.
« Last Edit: October 09, 2019, 02:06:03 by The Gonz »
  • i40 Premium Tourer, FD i30CW SLX CRDi FD i30 CRDi SX , Welly, SANTA CLAUS


Offline LemurMort

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 52

    • hr Croatia
Hi,  just to let you know, the check engine light wont always come on and set a cylinder misfire code, unless it meets a minimum threshold. I went for weeks trying to find the cause of the jerky acceleration (also no codes or lights), then one day it got really bad and turned on the check engine light and gave me a code.
I didn't know that.
I suspect it could be the fourth bobbin but I wasn't sure since the CE lamp didn't light up. I forgot to tell the guys to swap that with the new one.
  • 2010 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.4 + LPG, Manual, Red


Offline LemurMort

  • 2nd Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 52

    • hr Croatia
If the service guys have the gear and it can be replicated, maybe they could flight record the vehicle on various sensors and data and see if there are any abnormalities.
Yeah, I suppose they could. The problem is these problems are more evident when the car is cold. We'll see what can be arranged.
  • 2010 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.4 + LPG, Manual, Red


Offline nzenigma

  • Top Gear
  • *
    • Posts: 4,070

    • au Australia
      QLD
I assume that you know the distinctive sound/feel of a car missing on one cylinder.

So it cant be that.  :whistler:

I would start with the VVT Actuator. Also check the oil supply to it, the gauze filter may be blocked.
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Unread Posts

 


SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal