i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => SUSPENSION & STEERING => Topic started by: Michael T on November 09, 2013, 19:48:06
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A while back I installed the Eibach Pro-Kit designed for our car. If you are not aware our cars do not come with any camber adjustability stock. The lowering springs WILL produce a lot of negative camber in the rear. I had almost 3 degrees in the rear which is WAY too much for a front wheel drive car. The front was almost neutral but I wanted a little negative camber upfront for my aggressive driving style.
For the front I went with camber bolts. I used TireRack.com for my website but camber bolts can really be found anywhere for 20 dollars or less. Because of how the knuckle and strut are designed I could not get much camber upfront but I ended up with .5 negative camber which is better than none.
The rear camber was the real problem I wanted to address. I found "NeoTech" adjustable rear trailing arms. I tried to read up as much as I could on the company Neotech and found they are very popular in Korea. I decided to bite the bullet and buy the trailing arms. I am very impressed with these units. They make the stock arms look like itty-bitty pieces of plastic. They are very bulky and the adjustability nut on them is a 26MM which is HUGE. They were easily adjusted at the car shop to 0 degrees of camber.
Install for both the camber bolts and the trailing arms is very easy. I would rate it a 3.5 out of 10 for difficulty.
There you are. You can lower your car and obtain a factory or better setting. There is no extra noise nor vibration.
I am running Michelin Pilot Super Sports and am ready to autocross the wagon.
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Many thenks for this info Michael. :goodjob2:
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A while back I installed the Eibach Pro-Kit designed for our car. If you are not aware our cars do not come with any camber adjustability stock. The lowering springs WILL produce a lot of negative camber in the rear. I had almost 3 degrees in the rear which is WAY too much for a front wheel drive car. The front was almost neutral but I wanted a little negative camber upfront for my aggressive driving style.
For the front I went with camber bolts. I used TireRack.com for my website but camber bolts can really be found anywhere for 20 dollars or less. Because of how the knuckle and strut are designed I could not get much camber upfront but I ended up with .5 negative camber which is better than none.
The rear camber was the real problem I wanted to address. I found "NeoTech" adjustable rear trailing arms. I tried to read up as much as I could on the company Neotech and found they are very popular in Korea. I decided to bite the bullet and buy the trailing arms. I am very impressed with these units. They make the stock arms look like itty-bitty pieces of plastic. They are very bulky and the adjustability nut on them is a 26MM which is HUGE. They were easily adjusted at the car shop to 0 degrees of camber.
Install for both the camber bolts and the trailing arms is very easy. I would rate it a 3.5 out of 10 for difficulty.
There you are. You can lower your car and obtain a factory or better setting. There is no extra noise nor vibration.
I am running Michelin Pilot Super Sports and am ready to autocross the wagon.
Michael, that's all a bit above my pay scale. However I enjoyed reading it and thanks for sharing. Oh and, well done :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
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Very welcome!
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@Michael T
:thanx: :Agoodpost: :goodjob2:
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Thanks, Michael. I looked at bolts and arms just as you did when I went for my new tyres but I wasn't looking at doing any lowering so the 'shop' agreed it was overkill. My camber was spot all around and just front toe-in needed fixing back to zero.
But you sure confirmed it's an easy job for those who want to lower. A had a giggle at your difficulty rating. Are you an Olympic diver by any chance? :snigger:
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Thanks, Michael. I looked at bolts and arms just as you did when I went for my new tyres but I wasn't looking at doing any lowering so the 'shop' agreed it was overkill. My camber was spot all around and just front toe-in needed fixing back to zero.
But you sure confirmed it's an easy job for those who want to lower. A had a giggle at your difficulty rating. Are you an Olympic diver by any chance? :snigger:
The difficulty rating is scientific! LOL! I am not a diver, and do not get the joke. Am I too American to get it?
The shop is correct. The OEM alignment is fine for your daily driving but I really enjoy corner carving. I just wish I could get more negative camber upfront without having to modify the knuckle/strut or upgrading to coilovers.
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Your reference to the degree of difficulty and the scoring system in Olympic springboard diving, has a few parallels. :snigger:
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Your reference to the degree of difficulty and the scoring system in Olympic springboard diving, has a few parallels. :snigger:
:lol:
Thanks for the help.
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:judges: :agoodjob:
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You want more camber? I'll tell you how to get it at $0 cost matey.
Where the strut bolts to the steering knuckle in the front there are 2 12mm bolts, undo them, lower the knuckle, file the top hole back to the strut tube, replace bolts, tip the knuckle back equal amounts, instant camber in the front, and it was free.
Don't thank me, buy me something.
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Do you have any pictures of this?
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No matey, its pretty self explanatory! file, dremil what ever, the top holes on the strut at the bottom where the knuckle goes on, back so the knuckle pivots on the lower bolt and turns 'in' at the top, giving you negative camber on the front.
you would only want 2~3 degrees on the front, i did it to my maxima when it had coil overs in it, HOLY F#@k did it turn nicely, but beware if the road has rutting, it makes it follow it lots more, and if the camber of the road changes (our 3 lane highways have 2 lanes sloping out, the other to the middle for water run off) and when you changed lanes between the differing camber lanes, it kind of hits the peak, then pulls the car nicely into the lane, feels different until you get used to it :)
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just beware, if you are running wider rims, it will put your wheel closer to the strut!
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a372/sykomonkeeeee/KGrHqVHJEFE3spbY-qBRdyQFnTYw60_3_zps3d44d1b3.jpg) (http://s15.photobucket.com/user/sykomonkeeeee/media/KGrHqVHJEFE3spbY-qBRdyQFnTYw60_3_zps3d44d1b3.jpg.html)
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Eibach/SPC also makes a rear adjustable trailing arm(s) with a larger toe cam washer included. Eibach buys their bolts from SPC and sells them as their own.
Specialty Products Company | SPC Alignment | The Automotive Alignment Leaders (http://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=67410)
Amazon.com: Specialty Products Company 67410 Control Arm Shaft Kit: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-67410-Control/dp/B0081YVI58)
Also, this hasn't been tested yet but I assume will work:
SPC
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Elantra Touring w/ Multi-Link Rear Susp. 2011 - 2012 FWD
Rear Camber: 67410
Rear Toe: OEMA, 67410
Rear Toe Tool: 85130
Front Camber: 81260
Genesis Coupe 2010 - 2013 RWD
Front Camber: 81260
Hyundai OEM
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Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2008 - 2013
Camber Bolts: [00118-2M001]
I think the Genesis oem camber bolts may fit into the Elantra Touring
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Finally, Thank you for the tip, was looking but not founding anything for rear camber
BTW, heres a link for my drop that ill be putting on and with the rear camber issue resolved..cant wait
:link: Ksport Adjustable Coilover Systems, Camber Kits and Suspension Products | Ksport Store (http://ksportusa.com/b2c/proddetail.php?prod=CHY240-KP)