i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => GENERAL => Topic started by: i30joe on May 03, 2018, 20:12:44
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Over the past few days I've noticed a creaking coming from the driver side front wheel when the steering wheel is turned at low speeds.
I googled this and came to the conclusion it was the ball joint. But I jacked up the car and tested for play putting my hands at 12-6 and got no play. So apparently that's not the issue.
While I was there I tested between 9-3 and got a bit of play.
Can anyone possibly shed some light.
I have a video of the noise that I'm trying to figure how to upload it.
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https://youtu.be/f6itlCNX-nI
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All I can say from the video is I believe you, but to locate the noise ??????
A small bit of play in the rack at 9-3 is not unusual.
Does the noise disappear when the car is jacked up?
If so, weight is off the lower ball and bearing on top of the strut, these could be the culprit.
Other course is to get a helper to turn steering wheel while you get your ear dirty.
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All I can say from the video is I believe you, but to locate the noise ??????
A small bit of play in the rack at 9-3 is not unusual.
Does the noise disappear when the car is jacked up?
If so, weight is off the lower ball and bearing on top of the strut, these could be the culprit.
Other course is to get a helper to turn steering wheel while you get your ear dirty.
:goodjob: Strut Tower bearing I think could be the prime suspect,
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I had the same problem with my 2015 vehicle still under warranty and had the top bearings and mounts replaced by dealer problem cured. I then had the same problem on my 2016 SE and dealer referred to a bulletin and they lubricated the top bearings.
This did seem to cure the problem although i was a bit dubious with this remedy seeing that they had replaced the components on my privious i30
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Thanks for the replies guys. I'm gonna jack it up and have a good look around problem is I don't have much time to do anything with it I'm travelling 300 miles over the weekend. Hoping it will cause no problems with this.
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Don't sue me if I'm wrong, but i would think a creaking bush or similar would be unlikely to fail in the short term. Safe travels! :cool:
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Same Same :goodjob2:
She is always right.
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Halfway through my travels and all is well.
Took it to see a friend of mine who is a mechanic and thinks it's a strut top bearing.
Says it will be fine to travel and if the noise gets louder turn up the stereo lol.
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Halfway through my travels and all is well.
Took it to see a friend of mine who is a mechanic and thinks it's a strut top bearing.
Says it will be fine to travel and if the noise gets louder turn up the stereo lol.
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:snigger: :victory:
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Halfway through my travels and all is well.
Took it to see a friend of mine who is a mechanic and thinks it's a strut top bearing.
Says it will be fine to travel and if the noise gets louder turn up the stereo lol.
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Of course however missing two caveats>
1. if the noise exceeds the maximum output of said stereo, pull over
2. If you see smoke, pull over
Otherwise the stereo fixes everything or you could be more politically correct and simply insert suitably authorised ear plugs to save both prevent hearing loss and the cones from the speakers from departing the scene too :mrgreen:
(https://www.cmxmedicalimaging.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/MRI-Ear-Plugs-MBE33-CMX.jpg)
https://d2v9y0dukr6mq2.cloudfront.net/video/preview/A2KqU29/4k-broken-down-car-with-smoking-engine-left-abandoned-on-quiet-country-road_b7kxccqr__SB_PM.mp4 (https://d2v9y0dukr6mq2.cloudfront.net/video/preview/A2KqU29/4k-broken-down-car-with-smoking-engine-left-abandoned-on-quiet-country-road_b7kxccqr__SB_PM.mp4)
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Thanks for the advice. Don't worry I did take the stereo advice as a joke and will get it sorted soon.
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Just been to see the mechanic and he had a good look at it and is sure it's the bottom ball joint. Booked in for Friday.
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See if you can get it back and take some pics, interesting mainly because the joint is encased in grease with a boot to seal. Being that noisy suggests the boot has failed and the joint is dry in which case I'd expect accelerated wear .
would not take much to isolate either, simply disconnect the strut tower and rotate either the steering knuckle or tower and listen out
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I'll take some pictures. But he did spend 10 mins isolating it and lifted the car to take the weight off. I'll try and get some pictures.
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Just got the car back from the mechanic after closer inspection it's the lower arm bush. Says it will be £100.
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Suggested to replace the bushes. Priced the arm itself at £40 and sure I could do it myself.
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What I need to know is.
Do I need to replace the pair?
Do I need to get the alignment done ?
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What I need to know is.
Do I need to replace the pair?
Do I need to get the alignment done ?
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Do I need to replace the pair? NO, but it's not a bad idea. in British money sounds cheap. genuine arms?
Do I need to get the alignment done ? depends. It's probably a good idea to but having said that the only adjustment is toe-in which is at the rack. The rest of the geometry is set and can only change with degradation of the bushes.
So essentially you'd get away with not doing it but keep in mind if you've had regular alignments the Toe-in may have been tweaked as these bushings changed.
Was it the small inner bush gone?
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He didn't say. Quoted me 100 to change the Bush alone and 200 to change the arm itself. The arm I found was on eBay and was just quoted as the correct arm for my car. But doesn't come with the ball joint.
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123107730215
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Just got the car back from the mechanic after closer inspection it's the lower arm bush. Says it will be £100.
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LOL, had my suspiscions. Like I implied earlier for a ball joint to creak like that it would be totally dry and be loose potentially at the point of failure and separation.
also if you are DIY, the bolts on the arms should be tightened with the arm in it's natural resting position when the vehicle is sitting on the road.
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He didn't say. Quoted me 100 to change the Bush alone and 200 to change the arm itself. The arm I found was on eBay and was just quoted as the correct arm for my car. But doesn't come with the ball joint.
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Correct it won't come with the joint. I rebushed mine and did the joints on one. I'd expect you may have read it. I have been adding to that post but I had someone with a press give me a hand and it was a hell of a job getting the small inner bushing out.
On the latest car I found someone here with brand new arms OEM for $80 a side, at that price not even worth considering rebushing unless you wanted to go Nolathane.
Have you noticed any loss in steering stability? Bot of mine i could detect a direction change with road camber say crossing lanes and the wagon would change direction especially with off camber and applying brakes.
I'm still a little surprised it's making that much noise just turning the wheel if it's those bushings. Mine never did.
Did you want the OEM numbers ?
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Notice the extra piece of bracket welded. that's a change from the originals during production, maybe strengthening but none of mine had that from factory.
(https://i.imgur.com/ms5TiRJ.jpg)
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Noticed no other effect apart from the noise if I'm honest everything has been fine. Mechanic thinks if it is left it will cause excessive wear on the tyres.
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Noticed no other effect apart from the noise if I'm honest everything has been fine. Mechanic thinks if it is left it will cause excessive wear on the tyres.
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If it's failed then the geometry would be out
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(https://images.ilcats.ru/getImage.php?catalog=hyundai&filename=KAUSPJD0/5454511.png&hash=93ca5ce6f259202cefe0ff5a61d2af98)
545512H000
BUSH - FRONT LOWER ARM "A"
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/uOYAAOSwTA9X419C/s-l1600.jpg)
545842H000
BUSH - LOWER ARM
(http://деталь-маркет.рф/image/cache/catalog/photo2/545842h000-400x400.jpg)
545002H000
ARM COMPLETE - FRONT LOWER, LH
(http://www.koraps.com/udz/attachment.php?size=B&it_id=309249)
545012H000
ARM COMPLETE - FRONT LOWER, RH
(http://www.koraps.com/udz/attachment.php?size=B&it_id=309251)
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Thanks again for all your input Gerard. You and Gary are awesome. I'm sure most members you help appreciate it. Hopefully they realise your efforts are purely voluntary and unpaid. :goodjob2: :goodjob:
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Yeah I totally appreciate all of the wisdom you guys give that's why your normally the first port of call.
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Thanks again for all your input Gerard. You and Gary are awesome. I'm sure most members you help appreciate it. Hopefully they realise your efforts are purely voluntary and unpaid. :goodjob2: :goodjob:
Thanks Dazz, Gerard's covered it all-almost :happydance:, I'm over here with the master race, so doing a bit of catch up.
Something to add, doing the math on rebush v. buy whole unit is something that joe can work out. To do this DIY is fairly simple, I stress one of Gerard's comments- tighten bolt 54651D with full weight of car on the wheel. If you get Nolothane or Neoprene bushes you must do them on both left and right arms because the car handle differently, especially under brakes. I went that way on an FD recently, liked the result and yes needed a wheel alignment afterwards.
Cheers Team :D G
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Had a look at quite a few of the listings and can't see any mention of the material used for the Bush.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/Car-Control-Arms-Parts-for-2011-Hyundai-i30/33583/bn_7001150036?maspect=contextType%3ACAR_AND_TRUCK&Plat_Gen=FD&Cars+Year=2011&Variant=FD+%5B2007-2011%5D+Hatchback&Car+Make=Hyundai&Engine=1582ccm+116HP+85KW+%28Diesel%29&BodyStyle=Hatchback&Cars+Type=1.6+CRDi
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They are rubber. See the flex gaps in the front bush.
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I know they are rubber. I'm just saying none of them mention the material used.
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They are rubber. See the flex gaps in the front bush.
(https://thoughtcatalog.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/blindman584.jpg?w=584&h=390)
No
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If I knew where to start I could lead you to the conclusion wherever that once was.
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Hi all, I was going to post a new topic when I found this thread. I have exactly the same sound (although when turning the opposite lock) on my 2011 i30 comfort (petrol).
However I couldn't quite work out from reading the posts, what the minimum work that needs to be done and the likely cost is for repairing this fault . Also is it still safe to drive in this condition pending repair ? I would appreciate any feedback.
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I tried putting wd40 in the bush on the control arm and the noise went away. If you're is the same issue. I was quoted £100 to fit new set of bushes to the current control arms or £200 to change the control arms themselves. I'm gonna try and pick up a set of control arms from a salvage yard and buy the bushes to fit in myself. Set of bushes will cost £12 for the 2 pairs.
Been told that the car is still safe to drive as it is.
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Thanks for the feedback Joe. Yes, your car should be safe to drive with that issue. :goodjob:
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Thanks for your replies. I have some spray lithium grease which I could use. i30Joe, did you have to spray into the bush itself?
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Yeah just turn the wheel until you can see the bush and give it a good spray.
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That's great, thanks.
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Lithium grease might do the trick.
Just for reference purposes, WD40 or RP7 if left on rubber will accelerate wear and break down its absorption properties.
In fact any oil based product will do the same.
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Lithium grease might do the trick.
Just for reference purposes, WD40 or RP7 if left on rubber will accelerate wear and break down its absorption properties.
In fact any oil based product will do the same.
Found that out the hard way before .
Stopped the noise for a bit, then, WTF :crazy1:
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Lithium grease might do the trick.
Just for reference purposes, WD40 or RP7 if left on rubber will accelerate wear and break down its absorption properties.
In fact any oil based product will do the same.
Found that out the hard way before .
Stopped the noise for a bit, then, WTF :crazy1:
:evil: But at least you found where the noise was coming from Mick .... even though the entire front suspension collapsed the following week, at 120kph on a tight corner. You just cant please some people. :rolleyes:
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Lithium grease might do the trick.
Just for reference purposes, WD40 or RP7 if left on rubber will accelerate wear and break down its absorption properties.
In fact any oil based product will do the same.
Found that out the hard way before .
Stopped the noise for a bit, then, WTF :crazy1:
:evil: But at least you found where the noise was coming from Mick .... even though the entire front suspension collapsed the following week, at 120kph on a tight corner. You just cant please some people. :rolleyes:
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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just had the same symptoms,found out it was the anti-roll bar drop link,one ball joint was creaking,so had it changed,cost £80 which saves a lot as don't buy cheese now,got a redundant mouse trap if someone wants it