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1st service, here I come!

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Offline hornbill

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My 1st service is due in 2 weeks or so, so I want to prepare for it rather than go blind and let the dealer apply their usual tricks on me!

Been reading on 1st service in the forum and here's some facts i learnt so far (pls help to clarify them further):-

1. I don't have to go to my sales dealer for my 1st service? I can go to a Hyundai dealer close to my house.
2. Service doesn't have to take 2 hours! Some got it done in 45 mins??
3. Take note of your ODO reading to see if the dealer go for a long drive in the country for their test drive. Any anomaly found, demand explanation and compensation from their service manager right away!
3. I can buy my own oil, oil filter, other parts and get them to change them for me?

Some questions?
1. I haven't look at the service book ms see what's there, but for Melbourne, may I know what EXACTLY dealers do in their 1st service for a CW petrol model? If they include car wash, I'd say NO as I've got paint protection on (prefer to wash it myself with my own car wash liquid and gears), but I'd get them to vacuum the interior though...

2. Is it recommended to change the oil filter in the 1st service? Any difference in performance if I just change the oil, but not the filter?

3. If i can bring my own oil, oil filter, other parts, what would be the recommended oil for a petrol CW? and what is the part number for an oil filter for a petrol 2.0 CW model?

4. How many if you here actually waited at the dealership during the service? I know the service department will try their best to prevent you from having a peek at what they do, so they can keep their "trade secrets" in-tact!

I got this lovely love letter from the dealer's service department asking me to pretty much "build a long term relationship" with them..yeah right!

Oh ya, after the 1st service, can i say goto a 3rd party (UltraTune, etc) for subsequent service? Warranty won't be void from what I heard. Has anyone attempted this option so far?


Offline 2i30s

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at my 1000km service the labor was free,it only cost me for the oil.  :goodjob:  [but that was two years ago]
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Offline hornbill

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I see. Just flipped the service book. Looks like all the "service" items for 1000ks are actually inspections. Nothing will be replaced etc.

I might ring them and one other dealer and find out a bit more. Compare prices etc, as I need them to check the wheel balancing if it's not free.

They put on some 400+ psi of pressure on all 5 wheels when delivered me the car. Only realized it when I check the pressure few days after. I then changed to 240 psi for all tyres.

However after I did that, the balancing is moving more to the left. I installed 4 mudflaps myself though, tool each wheel off but I doubt that this could affect balance?? I did tighten every single nuts the same way for all tyres.



Offline 2i30s

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I see. Just flipped the service book. Looks like all the "service" items for 1000ks are actually inspections. Nothing will be replaced etc.

I might ring them and one other dealer and find out a bit more. Compare prices etc, as I need them to check the wheel balancing if it's not free.

They put on some 400+ psi of pressure on all 5 wheels when delivered me the car. Only realized it when I check the pressure few days after. I then changed to 240 psi for all tyres.

However after I did that, the balancing is moving more to the left. I installed 4 mudflaps myself though, tool each wheel off but I doubt that this could affect balance?? I did tighten every single nuts the same way for all tyres.
400psi,do you mean 40psi?  most of your 1st service [at 1000kms] is just double checking everything.
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Offline FatBoy

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G'day Hornbill,

My first service was free.  It is just a check of everything listed in the service manual.  It took about 20 minutes (complimentary cup of coffee) and was completed first thing on a Saturday morning.  My understanding of oils and filters on the first service is that they will change them, but it will cost you (labour and parts/lubricants).

As for a wheel balance, personally I would take it to a wheel and tyre specialist and have it done there.  If you think the balance is out, it probably is.

My understanding of warranty and third party servicing is that if the servicing is carried out by a recognised mechanic (Ultra tune, local garage, etc) and according to the service schedule, and stamped accordingly, then you are covered.  Not sure whether they have to use genuine parts, but I would assume that they do. 

And like 2i30s, do you mean psi, or kPa?

FatBoy


Offline Dazzler

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The others have pretty much covered it ..

But with the tyre pressures did you mean KPA (400 = nearly 60Psi  :faint:)

240Kpa = 34.8 Psi  :goodjob:...

They won't change the oil unless you ask and then you either pay or supply own oil and filter  :D

If you think there is a problem with the wheel balance get them to check it (should be free at the first service)
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Offline hornbill

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Opps...sorry it should be 240kpa then, not psi.

Yeah, i will get them to check the balancing for me. Will tell them what they did & I'm gonna ask upfront if they're going to charge me for it or not.




Offline hornbill

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OK. I went for the 1000km "inspection" on Tuesday, back to the dealer I bought it from. Told them to rebalance the wheels (and told them what they did to the tyre pressure too!), checked the left windscreen wiper and ask them about the ticking sound from the engine when it shuts.

So, they rebalanced the wheels OK, went for a 9km test drive (which is acceptable IMO), clean the wiper (the office guy said they replaced it but the tech said "clean" on the work order, and I was told the the ticking sound when the engine shuts is perfectly normal. Something to do with the temp diff or injector in the engine and some oil reactions etc etc.- that's when I shut my ears.

I asked my friend abt the ticking sound (which goes away after few mins when engine is off), he said it's normal too. He said it's a sign of a good engine?

Anyway, overall I'm please with the inspection BUT I don't think I will go there for the 1st paid service next year. Why? Because it's far and took me more than an hour to drive back home in peak hour traffic. I will ask around and maybe go to the nearest Hyundai dealer to my home (maybe 20 mins walk away?).

Oh yeah, the whole deal costed me $0.00:-)



Offline rustynutz

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*and ask them about the ticking sound from the engine when it shuts.
*and I was told the the ticking sound when the engine shuts is perfectly normal. Something to do with the temp diff or injector in the engine and some oil reactions etc etc.- that's when I shut my ears.
I asked my friend abt the ticking sound (which goes away after few mins when engine is off), he said it's normal too. He said it's a sign of a good engine?

Sounds like it's just the engine contracting after expanding from being hot, it's nothing to worry about and is perfectly normal.... :goodjob:


Online Surferdude

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I

However after I did that, the balancing is moving more to the left. I installed 4 mudflaps myself though, tool each wheel off but I doubt that this could affect balance?? I did tighten every single nuts the same way for all tyres.


Hornbill, I suspect, if you are talking about "moving to the left" you are talking about alignment. Balance is when the steering whell vibrates in your hands. Alignment is when the car wanders slightly to one side or other on a level road.
Higher pressures would possibly have helped hide any misalignment if it wasn't too severe. And taking the wheels off and replacing them shouldn't affect either balance or alignment.
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Offline rustynutz

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Offline WylieCoyote

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In Australia since we drive on the left, "Moving to the Left" could just be caused by road camber
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Offline 2i30s

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In Australia since we drive on the left, "Moving to the Left" could just be caused by road camber
but your wheel alignment is done to suit the camber of the road.  :idea: to an extent.
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Offline Dazzler

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In Australia since we drive on the left, "Moving to the Left" could just be caused by road camber
but your wheel alignment is done to suit the camber of the road.  :idea: to an extent.

Well, I didn't know that ..   :scared: (That puts a different slant on it  :lol:)
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Offline 2i30s

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yeah dazz,there are wheel alignment specs for cars that are r/h drive and l/h drive. I've always assumed it was because of the roads camber.  :idea:  i was a suspension mechanic years ago and there were alignment specs in the machine for different model cars and i noticed there were different specs for r/h and l/h drive cars.  :goodjob:
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Offline Dazzler

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  i was a suspension mechanic years ago

So you've had a few ups and downs in your career then Steve  :rofl:
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Offline 2i30s

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welder,mechanic,welder.  :wacko: :lol:
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Offline Dazzler

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welder,mechanic,welder.  :wacko: :lol:

Ah.. so you burned the "candle" at both ends  :idea: :rofl:
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Offline 2i30s

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welder,mechanic,welder.  :wacko: :lol:

Ah.. so you burned the "candle" at both ends  :idea: :rofl:
computers are my only down fall.  :-[ :wacko:
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Offline hornbill

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Hmmm..drive a bit more earlier and notice that the car wander to the left just a little. Tested it on flat surface road few times, release the steering wheel and car just wander to the left - just a little.

When I steer the steering back towards the centre, the car then wander to the right. Does this suggest that it's still out of alignment?

Thinking of sending it back for rebalancing but when some of you said it could be the road condition, I'm not sure.

Thought of rebalance the tyre pressure equally and see what happens. BUT I just did that few a week ago!

Should I just live with it as it's "normal" for our road condition?


Offline Dazzler

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Thinking of sending it back for rebalancing.

Hi hornbill.. as previously explained you can get them balanced as often as you like .. it is the alignment of the wheels that may be causing this issue... :whistler:
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Offline paul

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yeah dazz,there are wheel alignment specs for cars that are r/h drive and l/h drive. I've always assumed it was because of the roads camber.  :idea:  i was a suspension mechanic years ago and there were alignment specs in the machine for different model cars and i noticed there were different specs for r/h and l/h drive cars.  :goodjob:

Never heard of that before, what happens when us brits drive abroad it would make it even worse?
and what liability would that put on the manufacturers.
I bought a car in belgium and imported it to uk, no probs with camber difference affecting the steering.
And what would happen on a strait level road?
i respactfully think they are the same.


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