Tha Original i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: Steve Roe on October 07, 2011, 09:01:09
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Anyone who is interested can see the work that I performed as part of the 30,000 km service to my car on the link below.
I've now added another two sections:
How I changed my brake fluid and checked the pads
How I changed the clutch fluid.
Might be best to go the the root directory as I may re-jig the site a little in the future.
https://sites.google.com/site/instroe/home
I'm still awaiting a response from Hyundai Australia regarding a discrepancy in the service book vs. Owners manual on the frequency of coolant replacement.
I also noticed a discrepancy in the brake fluid specs which I'll bring up with them. A follow up phone call by me today revealed that I'm almost next in line to get a response, so maybe Monday.
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This info is much appreciated, well done. :brilliant:
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That's great Steve.. excellent work :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :happydance: :happydance: :brilliant: :brilliant: :Drive:
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Just had a look at this Steve.
I used Repco DOT 4 and as you say, two bottles is plenty.
My recommendation to everyone who has a car is that they buy themselves a 4 way wheel brace. They are infinitely safer to use and give better control especially when undoing nuts.
The only thing I would say is that, at least in the stores I work at they use a rattle gun to nip the wheel nuts up but religiously then go round and torque each wheel nut as a fail safe. It's a common sense safety factor. When I was training people I always made it a point to push for this to be adopted by the attendees in whatever store they worked.
Congratulations on a well presented and documented procedure.
Sorry. Missed your last slide with the comments re 20 years ago.
I guess you'd be aware that 20+ years ago it was quite common to experience brake fade due to overheating of the "old" fluid which, being hygroscopic, does absorb moisture form the air. And, left unserviced, you got some pretty awful gunge forming in the bottom of the reservoirs, some of which eventually found its way into the area around the seals. That didn't do them any good either.
We would get vehicles in with a blown seal and when you stuck your finger down into the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir you'd come away with your finger covered in gunky black sludge.
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Great site, will be good to see how it progresses. Keep us updated.
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great job Steve. :mrgreen: interestingly, the engine oil for an automatic is a different viscosity to the manual i30 2.0. :confused: from another Steve. :cool:
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Great effort mate, should make it a sticky
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Great effort mate, should make it a sticky
There's already a permalink in the "How to" section :D
https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=11159.0 (https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=11159.0)
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Great job, excellent descriptions :goodjob:
Thanks Steve