Tha Original i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => GENERAL => Topic started by: andyukguy on February 23, 2012, 23:17:55
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Hi everyone, I'm the proud owner (only for 2 weeks mind!) of a 2007 Hyundai i30 Premium (1.6 Automatic). I've not actually managed to drive the car too much in this time but even in this short period I've noticed an odd issue crop up.
If I go to the car in the morning and open the boot (e.g. simply unlock the whole car and try and open the boot) it'll pop open no issue. However after even a short journey (15 miles) the boot can become extremely temperamental. For example I drove 15 miles today and opened the boot, no issue, I then needed to go back into the boot a few moments later and it simply refused to open. I tried starting the engine, locking and unlocking the car, locking the car and using just the boot button on the keyfob but nothing worked. Please note when I used the dedicated boot open button the lights on the car flashed, but the boot would still not open at all.
I had to crawl behind the back seats and manually release the boot. Upon shutting it again, it would still not open.
I drove home (15 miles) and the boot would still not open, no amount of locking/unlocking/playing etc could coax it to allow me in.
I've now left it 6 hours and gone to open the boot and it's absolutely fine, it opened first time and is happy to be shut/open as many times as I care to do it.
This is the 3rd time now that the boot has refused to open in the very short time I've had the car. It's a concern and I've booked it in to be looked at by Hyundai.
To sum up:
- It's intermittent, it can seemingly work without issue repeatedly and then just not work for hours on end
- The only pattern I can think of is that it seems to occur after a journey and will only open itself after an extended period of no activity/driving
Has anyone come across this sort of issue before? Do they know the cause? Is it an easy fix? Is there anything I can check myself?
Any advice gratefully received! Thanks! :razz:
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To me, it seems there's good news and there's bad news. The good news is that from what you've described, the electric locking system is not at fault, because you say the lights flash as they should when you press your buttons, so no fix required there.
The bad news is it sounds like a physical mechanical fault in the outside lock mechanism. I note you can release from inside. Better to simply have the mechanism replaced. (is it covered by warranty). :neutral:
BTW, Welcome to the forum. :goodjob2:
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Firstly, andyukguy, welcome to the club. I'm sure you'll get a great deal of good tips, advice and friendship here, as I have. Congratulations on your purchase.
I've personally not heard of the problem you're having with the boot door but other members may have, so be patient for a reply. My first thought is that it may be a sticky tailgate actuator or switch or even an incorrectly adjusted striker.
If you use the link below and chose the "Shop" option, then chose your engine type (starts at 2009, but should be the same for 2007) then go to "body Electrical System" then go to "Power door locks". You might find what you are looking for there. Don't forget to book mark this service manual site, it's invaluable.
http://service.hyundai-motor.com/Main/Viewer/index.asp?viewtype=popup&group=SHOP&vehicletype=Passenger&mfrcode=HY&area=HME&langcode=ENG&modelid=TQ12&modelyr=2009&enginecode= (http://service.hyundai-motor.com/Main/Viewer/index.asp?viewtype=popup&group=SHOP&vehicletype=Passenger&mfrcode=HY&area=HME&langcode=ENG&modelid=TQ12&modelyr=2009&enginecode=)
In the meantime, you can use the "Search" function to see if there are any other posts about your issue.
Anyway, I hope you clear it up. I'm sure the dealer will be able to assist and the good thing is that depending on the build month of your car, any repairs may be covered under warranty.
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Welcome andyukguy.. yes this is a known problem (not that common but it happened on our first i30 - Feb 2008 build) it only happened once or twice so never got around to having it fixed under warranty before we traded it ...
As UM says i suspect "it may be a sticky tailgate actuator" as these have been known to fail occassionally in the back doors from time to time as well..
You should still have atleast 6 months of warrantly left as I believe UK i30's got 5 years and didn't get released until Sep 2007
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Welcome fella. Now, would that be pronounced "And Yuk Guy" or "Andy You K? Guy" :D
Nevermind.
You got some sterling advice up above. Is your boot difficult to close (ie, does it need a damned good slam to latch it shut)? I'm just wondering if the catchment is too tight because of the rubber boot stoppers being too proud of the body (they can be screwed further in if this proves to be the case, unless of course they're already tight against the frame)
Good luck mate, and let us know how you get on :)
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Hello! Thanks all for the responses. It's Andy UK Guy :p
Hyundai found a split wire and have replaced this so fingers crossed this was the cause. If it proves not to be then they've said the next step is to replace the switch mechanism itself. I'm glad some progress has been made, being locked out of the boot is not the most fun experience... I'm surprised there is no mechanism for popping the boot open from inside the car (apart from crawling behind the back seats). Perhaps I'm just missing it?
Thanks!
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:goodjob: Only the electronic central lock/unlock button on the door (no easy to reach mechanical over-ride) :undecided:
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I had very similar problems with my 2009 i30 a new lock mechanism replaced under warranty solved it.its the only problem I have had in nearly 40000 miles
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Hi folks,
Bad news, the i30 is still having issues with the boot refusing to open. Really getting to me now! The local dealer has had the car in on 3 occasions now (the last being for 4 days straight), they have:
1) Found some split wires and repaired them
2) Checked the wiring from the boot lock all the way to the computer in the front (it all looked fine, but was replaced anyway)
3) Checked all connections and shielding
4) Replaced the boot locking switch/mechanism with a new one
They have been opening the boot constantly without issue yet today I drive it home and straight away it won't work. No amount of locking/unlocking the car (or just the boot) will bring it to life. When I put my ear up to the boot there is no noise apart from the mechanical click noise when I push on the boot door switch.
The dealership seem to be at a bit of a loss, they have contacted Hyundai technical who have said they have had no similar cases.
The only common thread I can find is it seems to only refuse to open after a journey (or at least after the engine has been on).
I have two questions really:
1) Has anyone else ever had this and had the issue resolved? If so what was the solution? It might be useful if others have had it and never resolved it too so I can use it as evidence with Hyundai.
2) The car is still within it's 5 year Hyundai warranty so where does this leave me options wise? What if they aren't able to solve it? Can I demand they swap the whole car? Is there any precedent for this sort of issue where Hyundai are unable to solve something during the warranty period? I am the second owner of the car not the original purchaser.
Any advice appreciated!!! :wacko:
Cheers.
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Hi
Haven't had this problem, but seems to me like the only thing not replaced is the electrical box controlling the tailgate lock.
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Do you have speedlock engaged (ie, the doors lock automatically when you drive off - sometimes called 'halo') ?
I'm wondering if the BCM is playing up. Your dealer can turn the halo system off to remove one element of the equation, just to see.
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That is very frustrating.. Mine was so intermittent that I never got around to getting it fixed under warranty before trading it sorry :undecided:
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Hi
Haven't had this problem, but seems to me like the only thing not replaced is the electrical box controlling the tailgate lock.
Is there a separate box that just controls the boot switch or is this functionality built into the main computer box of the car?
Do you have speedlock engaged (ie, the doors lock automatically when you drive off - sometimes called 'halo') ?
I'm wondering if the BCM is playing up. Your dealer can turn the halo system off to remove one element of the equation, just to see.
I don't recall the car locking itself when I move off no.
That is very frustrating.. Mine was so intermittent that I never got around to getting it fixed under warranty before trading it sorry :undecided:
Perhaps I bought your old motor!! :Shocked:
Just looking for things to suggest to the guys really to help them out, they seem to be putting in a good effort now but it's clear they're struggling. It's so odd that it's after a journey. If it helps at all the stereo system clock played up for ages too before finally deciding on the right time (e.g. it'd show the right time on start then instantly go to different wrong time and wouldn't let me set the clock). Can you tell I'm clutching at straws here!!
Also does anyone have any thoughts on my 2nd question from above about what my options are if they can't fix it?
Thanks!!
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Hi
Haven't had this problem, but seems to me like the only thing not replaced is the electrical box controlling the tailgate lock.
Is there a separate box that just controls the boot switch or is this functionality built into the main computer box of the car?
My guess is there's just one box controlling all the locks in the car.
About your 2. question, I think you need answer from someone from the UK.
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There would be a separate solonoid switch for each lock but as Asterix implied it would be controlled through a central point so that everything can be locked together. All I can assume is that the replacement solonoid (actuator) was also faulty...
Your comment about the clock does throw a cat among the pigeons as it introduces an electrical Gremlin which is more akin to a FIAT than a Hyundai :undecided:
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The locking system is one of the features controlled by a physical unit called a Body Control Module - in mine its located behind the ashtray. It can be programmed, and hence deprogrammed, so it cannot be ruled out of the equation.
That said, what Dazz mentioned also makes sense in that the replacement solenoid could well be faulty. My window washer pump was replaced under warrant; great news, except that the replacement had the same fault, as did its immediate replacement, so there could be quality control issues at stake in all this.
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it may seem silly,but,i have to ask this question. are you trying to open the boot with the button on your key fob,or the button on the boot. :confused:
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it may seem silly,but,i have to ask this question. are you trying to open the boot with the button on your key fob,or the button on the boot. :confused:
It's two stage, either the car has to be completely unlocked or just the boot (via the keyfob dedicated boot button) and then I have to press the button on the boot for it to pop open...
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it may seem silly,but,i have to ask this question. are you trying to open the boot with the button on your key fob,or the button on the boot. :confused:
It's two stage, either the car has to be completely unlocked or just the boot (via the keyfob dedicated boot button) and then I have to press the button on the boot for it to pop open...
but,if you press the keyfob button first your actually locking the boot. :idea:[if the cars unlocked allready]
to unlock the boot with the keyfob you need to hold the button for a few seconds,unlike the door unlock buttons.
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It seems to be a rare fault.
I would recommend that they do some detective work and test the wiring at the lock solenoid with a multimeter or test lamp, to determine whether power is supplied at the same time as all the doors. If this happens repeatedly over many cycles, then the BCM is ok & the wiring to the lock is ok.
This would leave the solenoid itself, or is there a mechanical situation which stops the lock from unlocking. The solenoid may be energising but still unable to move the required mechanism due to binding or jamming of a component.
I wish it was here, I like solving this sort of stuff. :neutral:
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it may seem silly,but,i have to ask this question. are you trying to open the boot with the button on your key fob,or the button on the boot. :confused:
It's two stage, either the car has to be completely unlocked or just the boot (via the keyfob dedicated boot button) and then I have to press the button on the boot for it to pop open...
but,if you press the keyfob button first you actually locking the boot. :idea:[if the cars unlocked allready]
to unlock the boot with the keyfob you need to hold the button for a few seconds,unlike the door unlock buttons.
Yep, so if I unlock the whole car the boot doesn't open sometimes, other times it will. If the car is locked and I hold the boot button on the keyfob until the back lights flash the boot should open but it only does sometimes!
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it may seem silly,but,i have to ask this question. are you trying to open the boot with the button on your key fob,or the button on the boot. :confused:
It's two stage, either the car has to be completely unlocked or just the boot (via the keyfob dedicated boot button) and then I have to press the button on the boot for it to pop open...
but,if you press the keyfob button first you actually locking the boot. :idea:[if the cars unlocked allready]
to unlock the boot with the keyfob you need to hold the button for a few seconds,unlike the door unlock buttons.
Yep, so if I unlock the whole car the boot doesn't open sometimes, other times it will. If the car is locked and I hold the boot button on the keyfob until the back lights flash the boot should open but it only does sometimes!
thanks mate. :goodjob2: it may even be the release button on the boot,or the keyfob itself. :idea:
now I'm clutching at straws. :undecided:
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It seems to be a rare fault.
I would recommend that they do some detective work and test the wiring at the lock solenoid with a multimeter or test lamp, to determine whether power is supplied at the same time as all the doors. If this happens repeatedly over many cycles, then the BCM is ok & the wiring to the lock is ok.
This would leave the solenoid itself, or is there a mechanical situation which stops the lock from unlocking. The solenoid may be energising but still unable to move the required mechanism due to binding or jamming of a component.
I wish it was here, I like solving this sort of stuff. :neutral:
It's a difficult one it seems!! The problem is they had it for 4 days and it didn't break once then it breaks as soon as I drive home. Previously they had it for 2 days to change the switch mechanism in the boot and it worked fine until I turned up to collect it and when I tested it it didn't work! Gah! It's broken right now (well when I last checked 3 hours ago) but I know when I go to use it tomorrow it'll work just fine repeatedly... what's changed between now and tomorrow morning?! The car would have just sat there!
They definitely seem keen to find a fix, so will suggest everything that I can to help them. I just worry that it'll eventually turn into a big head scratching session and what happens then... I don't want them to try and fob me off with "we can't fix it, sorry we've tried everything" especially as it's under the 5 year Hyundai warranty!
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lorian was great at this sort of fault diagnosis. :blubber: :neutral:
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it may seem silly,but,i have to ask this question. are you trying to open the boot with the button on your key fob,or the button on the boot. :confused:
It's two stage, either the car has to be completely unlocked or just the boot (via the keyfob dedicated boot button) and then I have to press the button on the boot for it to pop open...
but,if you press the keyfob button first you actually locking the boot. :idea:[if the cars unlocked allready]
to unlock the boot with the keyfob you need to hold the button for a few seconds,unlike the door unlock buttons.
Yep, so if I unlock the whole car the boot doesn't open sometimes, other times it will. If the car is locked and I hold the boot button on the keyfob until the back lights flash the boot should open but it only does sometimes!
thanks mate. :goodjob2: it may even be the release button on the boot,or the keyfob itself. :idea:
now I'm clutching at straws. :undecided:
Appreciate your replies, never really considered it could be the keyfob hmm, Hyundai make it difficult to troubleshoot by not providing a button inside the car to trigger the boot to unlock!! :exclaim:
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a weak battery in the keyfob could also be your problem. :idea:
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don't pull the emergency access cover off the inside of the tail gate/hatch to have a look inside,i broke mine when i removed the one on my hatch. :-[ honest Mr dealer,it just fell off. :whistler: [replaced under waranty.] :goodjob2:
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it may seem silly,but,i have to ask this question. are you trying to open the boot with the button on your key fob,or the button on the boot. :confused:
It's two stage, either the car has to be completely unlocked or just the boot (via the keyfob dedicated boot button) and then I have to press the button on the boot for it to pop open...
but,if you press the keyfob button first you actually locking the boot. :idea:[if the cars unlocked allready]
to unlock the boot with the keyfob you need to hold the button for a few seconds,unlike the door unlock buttons.
Yep, so if I unlock the whole car the boot doesn't open sometimes, other times it will. If the car is locked and I hold the boot button on the keyfob until the back lights flash the boot should open but it only does sometimes!
thanks mate. :goodjob2: it may even be the release button on the boot,or the keyfob itself. :idea:
now I'm clutching at straws. :undecided:
Appreciate your replies, never really considered it could be the keyfob hmm, Hyundai make it difficult to troubleshoot by not providing a button inside the car to trigger the boot to unlock!! :exclaim:
i can even remember a post regarding locks not working because of high voltage radio/power towers. :idea:
are there any near your house? :winker:
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i can even remember a post regarding locks not working because of high voltage radio/power towers. :idea:
are there any near your house? :winker:
Hmm not sure, but doubt there'd be ones next to both my place and the dealer and out in the sticks where the problem has exhibited itself. Sure was embarrassing having to crawl behind the back seats when I arrived at work to open the boot... :disapp:
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i can even remember a post regarding locks not working because of high voltage radio/power towers. :idea:
are there any near your house? :winker:
Hmm not sure, but doubt there'd be ones next to both my place and the dealer and out in the sticks where the problem has exhibited itself. Sure was embarrassing having to crawl behind the back seats when I arrived at work to open the boot... :disapp:
i think we've covered most faults already found by other members in the past. :neutral: did you break the plastic cover? :sweating:
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i can even remember a post regarding locks not working because of high voltage radio/power towers. :idea:
are there any near your house? :winker:
Hmm not sure, but doubt there'd be ones next to both my place and the dealer and out in the sticks where the problem has exhibited itself. Sure was embarrassing having to crawl behind the back seats when I arrived at work to open the boot... :disapp:
i think we've covered most faults already found by other members in the past. :neutral: did you break the plastic cover? :sweating:
No, so far so good!!
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Andy,out of curiosity,did your car come with a second keyfob or only a spare key. :razz:
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Andy
You mentioned previously that your dealer found and replaced a split wire. Who's to say there are other split wires that they haven't found (possibly because they can't see) or indeed parts of the front-to-rear harness that are failing intermittently?
My biggest bet, now I've digested all your info, is the wiring. Did they ever say where the split wire was found, and what caused it to split? Point your dealer back in that direction.
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I've not had a problem
Is the hatch catch sitting correctly in the body recess?
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I have already put my two cents in, but if you have them do what I suggested, it simplifies to these.
- The BCM is faulty
- The wiring to the solenoid is faulty
- The solenoid is faulty
- The lock is mechanically jammed (solenoid can't release the lock)
- The lock mechanism is jammed (when you press the release the button)
- The door is misaligned & binding the lock
How hard is it to close the hatch, ours simply click shut. If the lock mechanism is set too far in, the lock may not release properly.