i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => ENGINE BAY => Topic started by: Medic01 on October 31, 2008, 08:20:25
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anyone read the latest hot4's ?
there is a write up about the turbo i30's and some stuff that Martin Donnan has done to extract more power.
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Hey medic01
What's a hot4? Got a link?
Cheers
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What's a hot4? Got a link?
Shambles,
I think it is an Aussie motoring magazine.
Bob
Edit
Found the link to the magazines website http://www.hot4s.com/
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Thanks Bob. I'll have a look later as I'm at work. Ah, sod it, here we go....
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Hi Medic01,
I will be also take a look after work.I´m really interested to extract more power of my baby ;)
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I can't find any review on that website. Some bonny girls tho :oops:
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Shambles Wrote:
I can't find any review on that website. Some bonny girls tho :oops:
Your not blind. It isn't posted. I only gave you the url so you could figure out what Hot4 was.
Sorry for the confusion.
Pleased you got something worthwhile from your browsing.
Bob
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Cheers Bob - I sure got some *ahem* enjoyment from the *ahem* pictures of *ahem* cars on that website. Cough.
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Cheers Bob - I sure got some *ahem* enjoyment from the *ahem* pictures of *ahem* cars on that website. Cough.
Going out in a while Sham. Shall try to get a copy of the mag. Will scan for you if I can.
No, not the pics, the tuning article - don't get too excited. :lol: :)
Bob
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yeah, hot4's is a magazine.
one of the better ones for 4cyl cars. they gave the i30 a good wrap and praised it.
the write up was good, but it showed that the main problem with tuning the i30 was the computer and the restrictions that the stock ECU had on the system.
e.g they unbolted the muffler thinking to see some power gains on the dyno, and all they saw was 1kw.
that could have been from anything, the dyno wandering etc..
but when they cracked the computer and played with the maps / boost pressure and fuel they managed to get 17kw or so. and still keep good economy.
so the trick is to play with the stock ECU, then add the bolt-ons like intercoolers and exhausts.
according to hot4's, this is just the beginning for the i30
i'll try to scan it up later on for everyone.
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some pics to get started, not very good quality but.
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s43/fifigetz/IMGP0874.jpg)
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s43/fifigetz/IMGP0875.jpg)
the thing to note is that if you want your ECU cracked and re-tuned, you need to contact
DW Tuning, -08 83410400
www.dwtuning.com.au (http://www.dwtuning.com.au)
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Can you scan it again

Just the second 2 pages, the writing is a little too small to read.
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For those who came late to this forum, you may not be aware that Martin (the author of the article and a part owner of DW Tuning) posted extensively on our forum when he DW Tuning was working on reprogramming the i30 CRDi ECU. Some members had differences of opinion with him over some of his findings as I recall.
Here's a link to the main post, but you can find other references.
http://i30ownersclub.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=633&start=40&st=0&sk=t&sd=d&hilit=Martin
Bob
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Wow... reading the tiny print in the article has surprised me!
It says that in stock form the CRDi can do 0-100kmh in 9.8 sec! I am sure that Hyundai listed it somewhere at over 11 seconds... that's a much better figure.
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Wow... reading the tiny print in the article has surprised me!
It says that in stock form the CRDi can do 0-100kmh in 9.8 sec! I am sure that Hyundai listed it somewhere at over 11 seconds... that's a much better figure.
Believe it brother!
I have a different (and much cheaper) tuningbox fitted and I now drive a slick, smooth, cheaper-to-run, i30 diesel which has so much torque you would not believe it.
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Steve Shambles, i'm sure you do m8!
just posting to say after years of racing and checking lap times, also Drag racing and checking computerized time ticket read outs that tell me how quick reaction time was, how long it took to cover the first 60ft, how long it too to cover first 330ft, then 660ft, then 1,000ft, also what speed i got to @ 1/8th mile distance. then how long it took to cover standing quarter mile and what the trap speed was.
i can honestly tell you there is no way you will do back to back identical times first time you try. so to me what a journalist puts to paper is just BS. but you all seem to think that just because so and so said your car can go from 0 to 100k in so many second. if you put your foot down from the lights. or from a stand still you car will be @ 100k in that many seconds. but i'm telling you here and now it won't. but why would you think thats a good comparition of a car's performance?
did you know the shift point that you shift at or how quick you can shift gear can make a big difference in how long it would take.
I just like to tell the truth so people know and understand how it is in the real world.
like they say, Talk is cheap.
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For those who came late to this forum, you may not be aware that Martin (the author of the article and a part owner of DW Tuning) posted extensively on our forum when he DW Tuning was working on reprogramming the i30 CRDi ECU. Some members had differences of opinion with him over some of his findings as I recall.
...
Bob
so to me what a journalist puts to paper is just BS ... like they say, Talk is cheap.
Did Lakes just happen to be on the anti-Martin side? Lol.
I agree, Lakes, with the many variables point, but 1 second better is quite a long time. If it was 1 second slower, I'd put it down to driver error, 1 second faster and I'd have to put it down to improvements of some sort.
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Rubix, all i asked Martin is if he could show me a timed dyno run, where instead of useing RPM you use seconds the throtle was wide open. and he did not like me asking that.
i'm not for or against him as i did not even know he existed :) i'm not normally the type to use a turbo, or read fast 4's.
but everyone to what turns them on.
i would have to agree 1 second difference is a big difference to 100k. but i never checked any performace claims on the i30 CRDi, as i'm not interested i did not buy it to race.
cheers m8
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I see nothing has changed around here...
What does that mean?
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I see nothing has changed around here...
There is very little negative comment on here really (if that is what you are thinking)
Were you a member in another life :razz:
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Rubix, all i asked Martin is if he could show me a timed dyno run, where instead of useing RPM you use seconds the throtle was wide open. and he did not like me asking that.
Because it is essentially and wholly stupid, unless you have an old 'drum brake' style 1960s dyno that cant apply load....as stated numerous times. Remember if you have $50 to spend on a dyno run, its better to spend it on food (was it Thumper that said that?) :)
Good to see its the same old same old happy faces around here, just surprised none of you guys have worked out the tuner box that everyone is lining up for is a variable resistor to trick the output of the Common Rail sensor.....$15 and a trip to Dick Smiths and its a DIY way of using more fuel. Go for a rotary pot to make it programmable! :idea: :eek: :wink:
Theres our tip for you in 2009.
Its a good little car the i30 CRDi, enjoy it, especially getting the inside front to peel rubber through second gear corners :mrgreen:
Sorry I have been a little quiet here, we have been caught up plenty with development of our R35 GTR, so the i30 has had to take a back seat for a little bit....more soon though :exclaim:
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Sour grapes are not my favourite fruit... (let's just leave it at that...) 8)
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... just surprised none of you guys have worked out the tuner box that everyone is lining up for is a variable resistor to trick the output of the Common Rail sensor.....$15 and a trip to Dick Smiths and its a DIY way of using more fuel.
Good to see you back Martin :)
My consumption has improved since I fitted my gizmo, by about 4mpg. Torque in 1/2/3 is much more readily available. As for the VR in the box... I see more than just a pot in mine... I see quite a bit of electrickery :D
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Sour grapes are not my favourite fruit... (let's just leave it at that...) 8)
Sorry! Was it when I told - and then showed - you guys that putting a 'sports rear muffler' on an i30CRDi was a waste of time? (zero power, just drone)
Or when that guy photoshopped in a picture of an intercooler into his car and told everyone he had done a custom front mount (that is an all time favourite) :lol:
You have no reason to be sour other than ignorance or misunderstanding of what you were told.
And yes the tuning box is a resistor box, with an attenuated or 'clipped' signal (hence the circuitry). All it does is tell the computer that the fuel pressure is lower than it really is and cause the computer to enrichen OVERALL fuelling by a given percentage. Thats why it plugs into the common rail sensor....as its the fuel pressure signal that is tricking. Sorry, its not a magical fix, and since the fuel pressure is up the whole time, so will be the fuel useage. Thats just physics no matter how you try and bend it :cool:
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Thanks for that information Martin; your posts are always good to read.
Let's forget the tuningbox for the moment as there is another thread covering that :)
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Rubix, all i asked Martin is if he could show me a timed dyno run, where instead of useing RPM you use seconds the throtle was wide open. and he did not like me asking that.
Because it is essentially and wholly stupid, unless you have an old 'drum brake' style 1960s dyno that cant apply load....as stated numerous times. Remember if you have $50 to spend on a dyno run, its better to spend it on food (was it Thumper that said that?) :)
Good to see its the same old same old happy faces around here, just surprised none of you guys have worked out the tuner box that everyone is lining up for is a variable resistor to trick the output of the Common Rail sensor.....$15 and a trip to Dick Smiths and its a DIY way of using more fuel. Go for a rotary pot to make it programmable! :idea: :eek: :wink:
Theres our tip for you in 2009.
Its a good little car the i30 CRDi, enjoy it, especially getting the inside front to peel rubber through second gear corners :mrgreen:
Sorry I have been a little quiet here, we have been caught up plenty with development of our R35 GTR, so the i30 has had to take a back seat for a little bit....more soon though :exclaim:
Hi Martin, happy new year.
well mate i know were there is an engine Dyno, here in NSW that use's water wheel controled load, and computerised, it can time load runs or use RPM and has a lot more tuning info than that. if i get down SA this year like the GF is planing, i'll bring video's and print out from this dyno and look you up to show you.
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Martin, i just read what you posted about the tuning box. i don't have one.
but about twenty years ago i saw a guy use that idea to confuse the ecu into putting more fuel in,on a petrol motor, and testing on an engine dyno, he used something he got for a few $ at tandy.
back to the tuning box, i think it turns up fuel pressure and as the fuel is under more pressure it would atomize better, so should burn more compleat but i'm just guessing.
A friend of mine in Tenn USA use's something similar on a 1.9 TDI Jetta, he tested it on one of those happy Dyno Dynamic Dyno's ( i was surprised they used them in USA) he saw good gains in HP & TQ and got it up to 137MPH on the road tested with GPS . but he did not say if he used less fuel, but did say he was getting 50MPG towing a trailer thats US gallion so would be close to 4.6L/100K
i'm not for or against your tune or this power box.
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Wow, nice of you to throw my name in here, Martin.
Remember if you have $50 to spend on a dyno run, its better to spend it on food (was it Thumper that said that?) :)
Actually, why waste the money on a dyno run when side by side comparisons with six vehicles, all at the same time, on the same road show a significant improvement.
Good to see its the same old same old happy faces around here, just surprised none of you guys have worked out the tuner box that everyone is lining up for is a variable resistor to trick the output of the Common Rail sensor.....$15 and a trip to Dick Smiths and its a DIY way of using more fuel. Go for a rotary pot to make it programmable! :idea: :eek: :wink:
Theres our tip for you in 2009.
*Looks at the USB cable used for programing, wondering just what that is used for* :cool:
especially getting the inside front to peel rubber through second gear corners :mrgreen:
Sorry, I would rather better traction and better economy than just showing off with wheel spinning. I guess the V8 brigade like that kind of thing. Their money to waste, I guess.
Sorry! Was it when I told - and then showed - you guys that putting a 'sports rear muffler' on an i30CRDi was a waste of time? (zero power, just drone)
Or when that guy photoshopped in a picture of an intercooler into his car and told everyone he had done a custom front mount (that is an all time favourite) :lol:
You have no reason to be sour other than ignorance or misunderstanding of what you were told.
Well, you must of done it wrong then, because there is no drone from a properly installed free flowing exhaust system on the CRDi i30. In fact almost everyone at the last meet could not pick a difference in noise during normal driving.
Free flowing system shows gains in economy, not power, but I guess your dyno also shows this (Or maybe not) :lol:
And yes the tuning box is a resistor box, with an attenuated or 'clipped' signal (hence the circuitry). All it does is tell the computer that the fuel pressure is lower than it really is and cause the computer to enrichen OVERALL fuelling by a given percentage. Thats why it plugs into the common rail sensor....as its the fuel pressure signal that is tricking. Sorry, its not a magical fix, and since the fuel pressure is up the whole time, so will be the fuel useage. Thats just physics no matter how you try and bend it :cool:
And your ECU 'hack' increases power by ? :rolleyes:
Yes, simple physics, more fuel equals more power in a diesel engine.
Then again, we have found that "simply" raising the fuel pressure results in better economy, better power and a cooler running engine.
Six cars were tested, same day, same road, same engines.
Yes, I'd rather spend $50 in fuel, drive 1,000km to meet with other like minded people who enjoy meeting others in the open, bring their families and enjoy a country drive, good food, good company, then to sit in a shed watching a vehicle on the 'rollers'. :lol:
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Free flowing system shows gains in economy, not power, but I guess your dyno also shows this (Or maybe not) :lol:
Correct. We measured back pressure in the exhaust, air fuel ratio coming out of the exhaust, boost pressure, power, and of course torque. None of these changed with the rear muffler on/off or replaced. If none of these changes the physical operating conditions of the engine havent changed making any gain in economy you have experienced a placebo effect. An exhaust system is not a mystical Peter Brock polariser, there is actual equipment that measures the result of a muffler on/off, really :)
And your ECU 'hack' increases power by ? :rolleyes:
By the amount we posted using a vehicle power measuring tool to read the data. Its a chassis dyno :)
Really do we have to link the dyno graphs again?
Yes, simple physics, more fuel equals more power in a diesel engine.
Correct, and less economy. You cant put more fuel in without using more fuel :eek:
Then again, we have found that "simply" raising the fuel pressure results in better economy, better power and a cooler running engine.
Adding fuel to any diesel engine increases power as you have said, but it also increases heat. Every diesel tuner worth their salt from big trucks through to soft roaders and even econo-boxes uses an Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge to monitor how much fuel is enough for the engine. Heat is a by product of power, its a very basic law of physics - conservation of energy - that hasnt been re-written for the i30. So adding fuel increases power, increases heat and decreases fuel economy. It really is very simple and nothing new :)
Six cars were tested, same day, same road, same engines.
Testing cars side by side on the road for performance is not only foolhardy and illegal its also dependent on the drivers of the individual vehicles. Read some of Lakes posts, a slower shift or a lower shift and its all out the window.....
Yes, I'd rather spend $50 in fuel, drive 1,000km to meet with other like minded people who enjoy meeting others in the open, bring their families and enjoy a country drive, good food, good company, then to sit in a shed watching a vehicle on the 'rollers'. :lol:
Good for you and no doubt you are a very nice bloke, but please dont argue performance when you have no intention of understanding or grasping the basic concepts and principles involved :idea:
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Correct. We measured back pressure in the exhaust, air fuel ratio coming out of the exhaust, boost pressure, power, and of course torque. None of these changed with the rear muffler on/off or replaced. If none of these changes the physical operating conditions of the engine havent changed making any gain in economy you have experienced a placebo effect. An exhaust system is not a mystical Peter Brock polariser, there is actual equipment that measures the result of a muffler on/off, really :)
Yet you keep omitting details of power/torque shift in the rev range. Yes you keep saying that an exhaust change does NOT increase peak power, or peak torque, but you keep dodging the question about an increase to the baseline power/torque limits further down in the rev range.
Your dyno can graph this.
A vehicle with 100kw @ only 4000rpm will be much slower on the road, in real world driving conditions, than a vehicle that has 100kw from 1000rpm to 4000rpm. But, on the dyno, a operator will say that the peak power output is only 100kw, and remains unchanged.
Does a free flowing exhaust shift the peak power lower in the rev range? (Even when the ECU will artificially limit peak power overall)
By the amount we posted using a vehicle power measuring tool to read the data. Its a chassis dyno :)
Really do we have to link the dyno graphs again?
Not sure what you read when I asked how your ECU hack increases power, simple question really. Ok, to put the question in even simpler format, does your ECU hack increase fuel rate/pressure/timing and/or increase turbo boost pressure?
Correct, and less economy. You cant put more fuel in without using more fuel :eek:
Great, so we are in agreement that more fuel in equates to more power and less economy.
So less fuel would equate to less power but better economy. You would agree to that?
Adding fuel to any diesel engine increases power as you have said, but it also increases heat. Every diesel tuner worth their salt from big trucks through to soft roaders and even econo-boxes uses an Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge to monitor how much fuel is enough for the engine. Heat is a by product of power, its a very basic law of physics - conservation of energy - that hasnt been re-written for the i30. So adding fuel increases power, increases heat and decreases fuel economy. It really is very simple and nothing new :)
Yet in real world testing away from a dyno, this has been proven to be the oppisit.
Increasing fuel pressure in a CRDi engine does not equate to adding more fuel.
You of all people should know this.
Testing cars side by side on the road for performance is not only foolhardy and illegal its also dependent on the drivers of the individual vehicles.
Gosh, now where did I state that the legal speed limits where broken?
I guess driving on the road is now illegal in your books. :lol:
Good for you and no doubt you are a very nice bloke, but please dont argue performance when you have no intention of understanding or grasping the basic concepts and principles involved :idea:
Hmm, maybe I don't have a grasp on certain aspects of mechanical operation, like yourself, but your assumptions of what I have performed, what I have found in testing, and what knowledge I possess makes one look very foolhardy!
I keep saying all along, I am not chasing outright power with the i30 CRDi (I already know how much power these little ones can make, as you would too if you even approached the black smoke limit) I am after outright economy.
I guess I do not know what I am doing, since I don't have a dyno.
This I will say, obviously I am getting something right since I use less fuel, have more power, better drive ability and have an engine that runs cooler with cooler outlet temps from the turbo.
It all boils down to this, I do not have a financial interest with the results.
End of story.
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It all boils down to this, I do not have a financial interest with the results.
End of story.
Not quite...
You have no results, no testing, just opinions formed outside the laws of physics to make you feel good about the modifications you have performed to your car.
Enjoy :)
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Not quite...
You have no results, no testing, just opinions formed outside the laws of physics to make you feel good about the modifications you have performed to your car.
Enjoy :)
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Thank you for not replying to any of the questions put forth by myself and others.
Thank you for also showing your true knowledge in this area, resorting to idle comments when you have nothing to provide.
Thank you for showing your true colours.
There is more to the automotive world than just playing around on a Dyno.
Hope you do well with your business.
Thumper.
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I can't provide much to this as I have very little mechanical knowledge, I think my Mechanical IQ matches my age (21)
What I can do is back up Thumpers story on the temps.
Both Thumper and I have Scangauge II's fitted to our vehicle, my engine is stock standard, his is equipped with a Tuning Box.
We found (through the use of radios, which is legal whilst driving as I am also a licensed amateur radio operator) that at all times his temps at the intercooler were lower than mine were, uphil, down hill, on flat whatever.
I'll end with a bit of history, during the Korean War the most decisive aircraft in the Air war was the MiG-15 (Koreans) and the F-86 Sabre (US) on paper the MiG-15 was superior in almost every way, speed, acceleration, time to altitude, max altitude, roll and turn rates, yet the F-86 was often the victor in the battles.
It's all well and good saying 'look this is better on paper' but that isn't always the case in the real world.
For me I have to see it to believe it, my teachers hated me for that............... :D :D :D
I don't deny what your stuff does Martin, but I have seen what the tuning box does and it does work.
Regards
Daniel
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Thank you Daniel.
Those VOX headsets work well. :cool:
The key word throughout everything I do is 'Efficiency'
Something some others forget around here. :mrgreen:
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Nothing like a good heated debate. :lol:
I would have to award points just in favour of thumper.
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well the intercooler temp is only coming from the intake side of the Turbo, it's not as important as exhast temp, exhast temp should be taken between exhast port and turbo.
i have used exhast temp sensors in the past but with petrol or meth.
but if thumpers temps were lower, would expect the tune was leaner at the time, but did thumper use stock exhast or a free flowing exhast?
you see i think the intake side of the turbo could run cooler with free flowing exhast, But who knows what the temp at the piston is? the exhast sensor would be a must i would say. but mostly because of the aussie climate.
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I'm going to post this before I finish reading it all: wow, I love forum arguments. Great reading!
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I am with you Rubix.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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I can't really add much to this conversation, but I feel the need to clarify one or two things - first, the law of physics you point out doesn't end in Armageddon. The engine operating temp can increase or decrease within a range without any negative effect. Not one you'll see inside of 20 years. Second, about that 6 car drive - we were driving a nice dual-carriage (4 lane) mountain run, and certain cars struggled while others pulled away, all going up hill around a bend. I can only put my foot down so far, and as I did I watched one car pull away as others chugged. The only other tuning box (I believe there was only one other at the meet) was waiting patiently for my slow petrol behind to crawl up in front of him. Per exhausts, free flowing vs not - if his engine is heating up as you say, free flowing exhaust should be more effective at cooling the thing down shouldn't it?
Please note, I'm a car novice, I'm learning from you guys. Don't tell me something like "if you drive your upside down it goes faster".
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Rubix m8, I've seen a Landrover Discovery 3 blow up with a tuning box and a lady driver that had a heavy foot. but different motor and heavy load on it, she keeps horses. i think she cracked an exhast valve seat from heat, but will never know as she traded it off on a new Swift ( can't use horse float now.) but i would still like one, as i do beleave they could help economy. i have had petrol motors set lean and then changed the tune giving them more fuel in mid range and saw an economy gain putting more fuel in, reason is i gained power and TQ and did not have to use throtle as much.
i think we should all get on, as some usefull helpfull info in here that is given freely and in good faith. and i thank each and everyone of you, & hope i have not offended anyone. as all i ever wish is to give out what i beleave and have learnt over the years. could be worthless snake oil but i beleave in what i put down. the Bell line of road is a great road for demonstraighting how Power Torque and driver skill works. years ago i was on what we called a stroker ( Harley with big inch motor) this bike looked stock but had a totally hand built motor and was set up to ride hard. i was with a group, had a guy i had just meet talking about his bike and how hard it went. it was in winter and 11pm at night at Richmond when we left was cold for us Aussies :wink: i had that guy with bright lights riding up my butt all the way then i slowed down let him pass just before Mount tommah as we went up that mountain i was on his tail he was giving his bike everything then half way up i just opened up and said good bye i hit black ice on that bend near the to going toward lithgow i slid a bit and gripped, aftr i hit the top i just eased up let him catch me and go past i said nothing. two weeks latter at a party in Sydney that same guy came up and said he would love to ride my bike. that mountain is a great demonstraighter. but as the law stands now have to go easy but you can still see TQ.
cheers
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I probably should keep my mouth shut here, but here's my 2c worth.... I agree with Martin about the tuning box, I wouldnt put one near my car - for the simple reason is that Bosch (and Hyundai) have made the fuel system the way it is for a reason. I'm sure that if they could increase the fuel pressure safely they would have. I speculate that the pump, injectors, pressure regulator or the rail itself are outside of the design limits and could fail. How long this would take is anyones guess, and Bosch tend to be pretty conservative people - but if I wanted to throw my warranty out the window and get more power and torque, I personally would go Martin's route, and go further - removing the factory safety net. Like I said previously - If Bosch were able to safely increase the pressure of the rail, they would have! As for the injection timing and quantity of fuel, this is probably Hyundai's call, and would be based on things like combustion temp, EGT, emissions, logevity etc. So if all you are compromising is emissions - then why not! But I suspect the compromise may be more than just emissions. Just my 2c worth but I thought I'd share my opinion. My knowledge is limited to the older Bosch mechanical systems - but I've seen the design tolerances they work with and these guys dont just pluck numbers out of the air - everything - every single specification they give is exhaustively tested, and if you stick to them, the system is bulletproof. Venture outside those parameters at your own risk.
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My knowledge is limited to the older Bosch mechanical systems - but I've seen the design tolerances they work with and these guys dont just pluck numbers out of the air - everything - every single specification they give is exhaustively tested, and if you stick to them, the system is bulletproof. Venture outside those parameters at your own risk.
Thanks for sharing your opinion L-D (It's always good to get frank and honest thoughts) :cool:
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I speculate that the pump, injectors, pressure regulator or the rail itself are outside of the design limits and could fail.
Actually, the pressure limiter valve (And subsequent fuel return valve) are not touched, hence the rail pressure remains operating up to, but never beyond the maximum set by Hyundai and Bosch.
If fuel pressure exceeds maximum operating tolerances, then the return valve will open, relieving the excess fuel pressure back to the fuel tank.
Oh, before anyone has a hissy fit about breaking laws of the universe, upping fuel rail pressure does not equate to more fuel being squirted into the engine. (This is only true if the injector pulse width remains constant, like in a mechanical diesel pump system)
Since we are dealing with a electronic injector (Much like a fuel injector in a petrol engined vehicle) they can by programmed to open for longer periods of time (More fuel per time frame) or opened for less time (Less fuel per time frame)
There is a very simple way in changing the injector pulse width (Well, three out of the four pulses per injection cycle, per cylinder) without resorting to cracking the ECU.
Though, don't listen to me, I don't know what I am talking about (Everything I have posted thus far on this board I have no idea about!) :eek: , haven't done any testing :lol: (Over 30,000km thus far) have no results :lol: (More power, better economy and a cooler running engine shown to many on here)
Yup, I have no idea, so I must be EXTREMELY lucky with everything I have done thus far! :cool:
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Geez, Thump, I'm starting to believe you are Demagogue! :lol:
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Actually, the pressure limiter valve (And subsequent fuel return valve) are not touched, hence the rail pressure remains operating up to, but never beyond the maximum set by Hyundai and Bosch.
If fuel pressure exceeds maximum operating tolerances, then the return valve will open, relieving the excess fuel pressure back to the fuel tank.
Oh, before anyone has a hissy fit about breaking laws of the universe, upping fuel rail pressure does not equate to more fuel being squirted into the engine. (This is only true if the injector pulse width remains constant, like in a mechanical diesel pump system)
Since we are dealing with a electronic injector (Much like a fuel injector in a petrol engined vehicle) they can by programmed to open for longer periods of time (More fuel per time frame) or opened for less time (Less fuel per time frame)
There is a very simple way in changing the injector pulse width (Well, three out of the four pulses per injection cycle, per cylinder) without resorting to cracking the ECU.
Though, don't listen to me, I don't know what I am talking about (Everything I have posted thus far on this board I have no idea about!) :eek: , haven't done any testing :lol: (Over 30,000km thus far) have no results :lol: (More power, better economy and a cooler running engine shown to many on here)
Yup, I have no idea, so I must be EXTREMELY lucky with everything I have done thus far! :cool:
I think the pressure relief valve is probably set a bit higher than the day to day operating design pressure, to prevent the rail bursting if the return valve gets blocked or a line gets pinched etc.
Also, unless the injector is at 'choked flow' I think you will find the amount of fuel injected per opening will increase as the rail pressure increases, if the duty cycle remains the same. Thats why a petrol engine has a vacuum (and/or boost) controlled regulator to keep the pressure differential across the injector constant, regardless of manifold pressure. Why does the ECU need to know the fuel rail pressure and be able to vary it then? They could just put in a fixed rate regulator that keeps the same pressure at all flow rates. And any changes to temp sensors or flow meters is only shifting the whole map in either direction, not an 'ideal' situation especially at partial loads.
I'm not questioning your results or testing, nor am I saying that you shouldnt do the mod - its your car - you can do with it as you please! You may not even be 'lucky', the equipment may handle the extra loads for years to come. All I'm saying is that if the engineers at Bosch (and Hyundai) thought they could safely increase these paramters - they would! They have nothing to lose and everything to gain.
Just enjoy your mod and realise that some people are after something different from their cars and may have a different opinion. If I wanted a car to modify I would buy one out of warranty - or like yourself - choose to modify it anyway.
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Thanks