Post by: Thumper on November 04, 2008, 07:52:07
Let's what can be done to these. *Grins*
Over the following days, more pictures to come.
(And yes, the Australian i30 headlights are a pain in the you know what to open up!)
Any suggestions? <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_razz.gif" alt=":P" title="Razz" />
Post by: TheBunyip on November 04, 2008, 08:39:01
Sorry I do not have the time to Google this one. It looks an interesting challenge.
Headlight dismantling and reassembly seems to be something of a popular project for lots of Mazda 3 Owners.
If you browse http://www.mazda3forums.co.uk/. you should find some well photographed projects (Angel Eyes, Daylight running addition) on the Mazda 3 headlights. Baking them in the Kitchen oven to soften and reset the assembly glue seems to be the way to do it for the Mazda 3. I am fairly certain that I have seen discussion of similar projects on American Mazda 3 forums too.
Is the "plastic technology" used in the Hyundai and Mazda headlights similar? Would it help on the i30 headlights???. I haven't a clue.
Good luck with your Project. I will look out for your results.
Post by: nizzkid on November 04, 2008, 09:57:19
Just had to stick them in the oven and pry them appart. Pretty easy.
Best to go slow though...i have seen pics from people who had the heat on too high! lol
Post by: Thumper on November 04, 2008, 10:45:13
Issue here is, these lamps are held together with a grey bonding agent that does NOT soften with heat. (It's a bugger to work with)
I have some ideas that will require some interesting changes that do NOT involve LED's.
Post by: TheBunyip on November 04, 2008, 21:29:38
So it looks as if a "solvent/releasing agent" that will not attack the "Plastic Headlight components" may be required to release that "Grey Goop"
Do we have any i30 Owners who are Chemists who could help identify a "safe solvent"??
Post by: bumpkin on November 04, 2008, 21:51:53
If Thumper has a small bit of the glue, see if the glue softens in a dish with a little vodka in it. If so then alcohol is the chappie required.
Brian
Post by: TheBunyip on November 04, 2008, 23:10:23
I do not know if your info will help. Hope it does. But.......
THANK YOU for the fast response anyhow.
I am glad that your Ethanol test does not require the sacrifice of even a small drop of a Single Malt.
Post by: Thumper on November 05, 2008, 00:10:48
Right, the oven trick does work, but patience is required. When you have a headlight that has the normal black sticky bonding glue, 60 degrees C at around 15 mins is all that's required.
This grey bonding agent requires higher temps (85-90 degrees C) for around an HOUR before it softens enough to pull apart.
The i30 lamps are one of the hardest I've worked with in regards to pulling them apart.
I was looking at painting the inside black, but that only really suits the darker colour vehicles. The chrome, well, not my cup of coffee! The Camry I have has the lights done in a gun metal grey colour, looks rather neat. So I'm looking around now for a heat proof gun metal grey paint.
I'v just finished modifying the projection cages and fitted different scatter shields (For the HiD system) I'm now looking at something completely different that I am sure hasn't been done before (When you look at the low beam projection lens, it looks like a half circle. I am looking at making the entire glass lens glow blue, like an eye, but the projected light on the road is perfect white)
Ideas......Ideas......
Post by: Thumper on November 06, 2008, 01:46:24
(http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/4360/pic00791zo6.jpg)
To this:
(http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/8255/pic00961lj2.jpg)
Close up.
(http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/4965/pic01001mb8.jpg)
Just enough chrome to keep it looking factory, but with enough of a colour change to make it slightly different to all the other i30's going around. (I think the blue highlights actually turned out looking ok)
I'm still working on what to do with the indicators. (Either a Cree or Luxeon amber insert)
Post by: Hemmi on November 06, 2008, 02:13:43
Post by: grug on November 06, 2008, 03:27:28
You'll have to take a wider angled shot so we can see how it looks with your silver.
I'm expecting a Steel Grey, and also can't really stand the chrome or stock look. If this wasn't too hard to do I might look at doing something similar myself. Perhaps when you've finished everything and have a bit more time you could do a more detailed write-up for us?
Post by: Thumper on November 06, 2008, 08:10:13
I've noticed that the Korean's are use multiple stacked arrays of LED's for the indicators. Looks good, but they are now becoming very common.
I thought I'd do something a little different. (Free air projection into a dispersion lens) Surprisingly most of the equipment is already inside the headlamp. 8-)
Heck, if someone with a steel grey i30 likes my lights, I'm more than happy to swap them over, and start again on the mods.
Post by: Dazzler on November 06, 2008, 08:25:07
Don't make her look too much better you won't want to sell her...
Post by: Thumper on November 06, 2008, 08:43:15
Oh, yeah, I asked around for black/grey/colour coded headlights from overseas, they only come in LHD versions.
I might corner the market for colour coded headlights for the i30 in Australia for RHD. (With whatever personal touches you wish)
Oh, by the way, the fog lights are a PITA to open up. (Third trip to the oven to get them open)
Post by: EymaTeapot on November 06, 2008, 08:52:38
Look forward to see how it looks back on the car
Post by: tiny on November 06, 2008, 09:16:32
Post by: Waja on November 06, 2008, 09:58:05
Post by: Dazzler on November 06, 2008, 10:47:47
Post by: Thumper on November 06, 2008, 11:35:43
There is only one person on here that's seen and heard my little beast, thus far.
Once I've done these lights, I'll do a full photo shoot. Promise. <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_e_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" />
Here are some of the 'in-between' photos that you rarely see with my mods.
The taping of the fog lights.
Fog light out and opened up (Clear cover removed)
(http://img113.imageshack.us/img113/6714/pic01081mx9.jpg)
Rough taping of the housing. (Will tidy the rough edges tomorrow when there is sunlight about)
(http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/2672/pic01131nj4.jpg)
Next, the painting. (Obviously where the tape covers there will be no paint.)
If the lights don't look good on a light silver i30 like mine, then I'll sell them to someone with a darker colour i30. (Issue is, they are modded to accept HiD bulbs. Reduced glare and I have eliminated all light output above the cut off line. Not an easy job. This itself has taken me the longest time to perform.)
If anyone is interested, all paint used is engine enamel that is heat proof to 540 degrees C, heat cured for a day before any assembly.
Post by: Thumper on November 07, 2008, 08:48:31
(http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/5678/pic01461bb4.jpg)(http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/421/pic01471cc6.jpg)
(http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/7050/pic01271dn1.jpg)
(http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3648/pic01421oi1.jpg)
The extra modifications to the low beam projection screen has resulted in 0% of light projecting upwards. It has also resulted in a brighter, whiter light. (5 hours worth of work on the projection cage itself helped with this, also a new modification that I've been designing for months now)
The indicator lights have been heavily modified with three very high powered LED modules (1w each module) that point forward into the original lighting cluster lens. Works rather well! (Too bloody bright to look directly into)
Still working on the fog lights.
What do you all think?
Post by: teamgeorge on November 07, 2008, 09:18:16
people could argue the passenger stock initially looks better but if you think about it thats just glare around the lights where the modded version have direct light in the areas needed for better vision? i want pictures on a pitch black night looking down a country road before i make my assessment.
Post by: YOSOYPEPO on November 07, 2008, 09:46:38
Post by: Dazzler on November 07, 2008, 10:12:49
In the photo with the lights off it looks brilliant. I'll wait for a long shot &/or night shot to judge the "light on" comparison...
Post by: Hemmi on November 07, 2008, 11:14:58
Post by: grug on November 07, 2008, 22:05:30
Post by: Thumper on November 08, 2008, 08:27:27
(http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/3699/pic01511he4.jpg)(http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3408/pic01521ub5.jpg)
(http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/1769/pic01631zb7.jpg)
(http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/6758/pic01541bw1.jpg)
(http://img516.imageshack.us/img516/6915/pic01551dk6.jpg)
Camera still can't get the colour/light levels correct with the HiD yellow.
Time to do the other side. <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_cool.gif" alt="8-)" title="Cool" />
Post by: EymaTeapot on November 08, 2008, 08:49:02
Brilliant
Post by: Dazzler on November 08, 2008, 09:04:04
The dark reflector does look better (with light colours anyway)
Post by: YOSOYPEPO on November 08, 2008, 09:32:38
Quote from: "dazzling_darryl"
Careful.... The Koreans will start posting pix from our site on theirs if you're not careful :Pyes. he can put a water mark in photos
The dark reflector does look better (with light colours anyway)
Post by: Dazzler on November 08, 2008, 10:23:18
Quote
yes. he can put a water mark in photos
I don't think that will be necessary (just meant they will be impressed with Thumper's work, like we are impressed with theirs)
Post by: grug on November 08, 2008, 10:33:13
Post by: EymaTeapot on November 08, 2008, 10:36:56
Quote from: "grug"
Yeah, you've sold me. If you were keen to do something similar for my headlights, I'd definitely be willing to shell out for it.
I will second that.
Whats your fee Thumper?
Do you work for beer? I am a home brewer so have plenty of that
Post by: eye30 on November 08, 2008, 11:50:35
Post by: Thumper on November 08, 2008, 12:23:03
I also need to know what 'accents' you all would like? (I can do the glow blue, glow red or black) I call it glow because the three lines are actually transparent pigment, so the shiny chrome comes through from under the colour.
Also the reasons why I am going to do it with brand new lights is, once you buy them, they are yours to do whatever you wish with, they have no scratching on them, newer lights will be easier to open up and the simple fact is it takes several days to do each light properly. (I heat cure the paint so that you'll NEVER get any misting inside the lamp as normal paint cures inside the cover.
Also gives the paint a chance to cure properly so can't be affected by sunlight and heat build up. (I've found higher temp paint that will take up to 1,200 degrees C before breaking down)
Your lamps would have melted LONG before the paint softens and starts to cloud the inside of the lens.
Since it takes a while to do each lamp, I wouldn't want you to have a vehicle off the road for up to a week whilst your lights are being worked upon.
As for pricing, I'll see how much I can purchase brand new items for, then see if I can at least match the price for the LHD painted lamps you see in the Korean photos.
Do you like the half chrome, half painted?
All painted?
Cover on top (With the three lines) painted or not?
Believe it or not, what takes the most time (Apart from heat curing the paint) is the taping of areas I do not want painted.
Tell me what you want and I'll try and do it. (Give me a challenge)
Post by: grug on November 09, 2008, 00:01:43
Sounds great Thumper. Fair call on the separate pair of headlights - will the same apply to the foggies?
Fingers crossed Hyundai's prices on the headlights aren't completely ridiculous. A price close to the Koren sets sounds fair - even higher would be fair given the customisation options.
Post by: EymaTeapot on November 09, 2008, 01:27:42
I would be very interested. I think par painted, part chrome might look good. I also do like the blue glow.
Post by: Thumper on November 12, 2008, 12:35:52
High beam is now like spot lights, down the road, bloody bright.
Low beam is so bright, it's not funny. NO bleed above the cut off line. (There is a massive amount of blue just before the cutoff line. Something that was intended. One of the modifications I worked upon.)
Perfect spread and colour out on the highway. (Signs do not have a slight purple/red tinge, they are now a solid blue on the edge of the beam, then a blinding white when the beam hits them)
Funny to see bloody bright light in front of the vehicle, like where it's meant to be, then further down the road, the white reflectors on the road itself turn a deep blue.
Will grab some more photos tomorrow, as for now, it's bed time.
(Oh, yeah, the colouring of the headlamps looks very nice on a Silver i30)
Post by: encountar on November 12, 2008, 14:38:28
Post by: grug on November 12, 2008, 23:06:48
Glad to hear you're satisfied with the results - you've obviously put enough time into it.
Very keen to see the photos and the inevitable write-up!
Post by: camerooney on November 12, 2008, 23:14:43
Post by: Thumper on November 13, 2008, 10:31:20
The SHARK! 8-)
Post by: Dazzler on November 13, 2008, 10:40:14
Post by: Waja on November 13, 2008, 12:28:03
Post by: grug on November 18, 2008, 00:34:17
I'll have to grab some further info about this mod a bit down the track when I've got a bit of time so I can have a crack myself. I'm not sure about what you use to reseal the headlights, the exact paint you ended up with, or whether you sanded before spraying. I'd also be interested to know how difficult you think this mod is - I note that you reckon it's taken the most time to modify the projection cages, which I wouldn't be doing.
Post by: YOSOYPEPO on November 25, 2008, 22:32:40
I hope that the translator of google you can understand this perfectly.
As time and temperature exactly what you had in the oven? what you put on the metal tray or something else?
once you use an open source sandpaper?
what kind of paint you used to paint it? you have used one layer of imprintacion?
type of adhesive that you used to re-close the lighthouse?
thank you very much
Post by: Thumper on November 27, 2008, 05:01:56
First of all, do you have an electric oven that is clean and large enough to put the entire headlamp inside, with the door closed?
If so, continue. (Using a hairdryer is just a pain)
Remove the headlamp from the vehicle. Two bolts on top, one at the rear. (10mm or 12mm, can't remember right now)
Disconnect the large power plug running to the lamp. (Squeeze connector, it pulls directly back towards the rear of the vehicle)
Now with some force, pull the entire assembly forward and up slightly. (Don't worry if the lamp gets caught on the bumper, just push down slightly with the palm of your hand on the bumper)
Once out, find a nice clean work area (Kitchen table works best) put down two clean towels, and gab a third older towel.
Walk to your oven, pull all the trays out, and anything else in there, put a tray on the lowest level, put an old teatowel on the bottom tray/shelf making sure it does not touch the floor or sides of the oven. You will be placing the headlight onto this towel.
Set oven for 60 degrees C (If you have an oven that only starts at 100 degrees C (Like most) just turn the dial to where 60 degrees C might be and you'll notice the oven turns on.)
Close door, clean hands of all grease and dirt, then go back to kitchen table
Remove the two large round covers on the back of the lamps, put the side. Remove the bulbs (H7 low beam, H1 high beam) put them to the side, wrapped up in tissue or cloth.
Using a Phillips head screwdriver, remove the top mounting bar (4 screws hold this in)
Now most important (Otherwise you WILL break your lights if not done) remove this single Phillips head screw, indicated by the green arrow. (Above the low beam hole)
(http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/9248/10045561lyiy0.jpg)
Once done, remove the indicator lamp by just unscrewing it.
Now, turn the lamp over in your hands and familiarise yourself with all the 'tags' that look like they hold the clear section to the black section. There are plenty of them. A small flat headed screwdriver will help pry the tags over the bumps sticking out of the clear sections.
Ready? Is the oven up to temp? (You should be able to place your hand in the oven, feel it's warm to hot, but not uncomfortably hot that you can't keep your hand in there.)
Shove the entire lamp assembly into the oven. on top of the tea towel. Clear side facing up. Make sure NO part of the plastic is touching any metal part of the oven, it's walls or door.
Close door, set timer for roughly 15-25 mins.
Keep checking the oven to see and smell any issues. When it's about done, you will smell first plastic, then a rubber smell. As soon as you smell warm rubber, remove the lamp assembly with the spare towel you have (It's going to be uncomfortably hot to handle)
Leave oven on (Because you may need it)
Quickly get to the kitchen table, then carefully pry each black tab up slightly whilst pulling the clear covering apart from the black housing.
The black 'goop' should pull apart on both sides. DO NOT allow this goop to contact the lamp on the insides. (If need be, a stanly knife will help 'cut' the goop.)
If you find it very hard to pull apart, shove the entire lot back into the oven, bake it a bit longer. (All you need to do is heat the goop.)
Keep checking the temp of the assembly by putting your hand on it. It should be hot to the touch, not melting. Bit like the heat of the lamp on a hot summers day.
Ok, you have the lamp apart.
The chrome rings and chrome assemble will be screwed to the clear front section. (Two small Phillips head screws)
Unscrew, then put the clear section to the side.
Now the chrome section has two rings, one cover plate and the indicator lens, all which unscrew with a Phillips head screwdriver.
Now it's up to you what you wish to paint, what colour, and how to paint it.
I used Automotive engine heat proof paint, good for 540 degrees C (1000 F) Metallic Charcoal in colour. (Flat finish, no gloss)
One 300g can did all four lights.
Now, prepping, make sure no fingerprints or marks are on the chrome. I cleaned with RO water (I have a 6 stage Reverse Osmosis water system, due to our crappy water here) and a very clean cloth (Brand new microfiber, $4 for a pack of 6 at local car store)
Warmed the chrome up in the oven for a few minutes (Warm, not hot) took outside and sprayed several coats first. Let sit for two hours, then a couple of more coats.
I let them sit inside for 12 hours, then heat cured them with a hairdryer. (Holding them, heating them up untill you can smell the paint,)
It is important you cure the paint BEFORE assembly, otherwise misting/clouding can occur inside the lamp when it heats up during operation.
Let them cool down, assembled the now painted pieces back in reverse order.
Now, for the fun bit. Heat the oven back up, put the clear lens section with the attached painted but AND the black headlamp assembly into the oven and bake at 60 degrees C for 10-15 mins.
Pull them out, and push them together. May need towel again for this. Make sure ALL the black tabs have been pushed over the clear tabs.
Screw all screws back in, fit bulbs, fit back into vehicle.
Done.
Fog lamps, almost the same, but they have a different kind of 'goop' that holds them together. It requires about 80 degrees C oven temp for around 35-40 mins.
I am only offering this as advice if you wish to follow it. Please do not hold me responsible for any damage or problems caused if you forget the lamps in the oven, or mark the plastics.
Hope this helps. 8)
Post by: grug on November 27, 2008, 05:21:20
My partner isn't going to be very impressed by this list though I think. She'll get to the word 'oven' and I'll be stopped from anything further! :lol:
So no sanding then? Good to know.
As you've mentioned, the taping of various parts will be the most time consuming bit.
Doesn't sound particularly pricey either which is also good.
Thank you Thumper, very appreciative!
Post by: Thumper on November 27, 2008, 06:20:36
Then it was time spent on them. (This is what would cost the most if you had another do the lights for you)
No sanding.
The taping of the lights was done on the fog lights only.
I could have taped up the indicator reflectors on the main lights, but I didn't want that, since I will be using high powered LED projection into the indicator lens.
As for what mods and colours, just have a look at the Koren pictures, the sky is the limit (And legal issues in Australia)
The dealership I purchased the vehicle from has seen the lights, liking them so much they wish for me to help them with a display i30, colour coded, with some simple mods to make it stand out.
Vivid blue, with black highlights on the bonnet, roof, grill and lights. Nice wheels. That should turn some heads. :twisted:
Post by: mickhs on November 27, 2008, 08:10:57
A very detailed and excellent description of your method. When I eventually get my i30 I may be tempted... except I have a gas oven!
Question I have to ask is whether all the modifications you have made, eg painting, exhaust, etc, has any impacts on your warranty?
Post by: Rubix on November 27, 2008, 08:37:42
Question I have to ask is whether all the modifications you have made, eg painting, exhaust, etc, has any impacts on your warranty?Painting can't affect your warranty - unless you're trying to get warranty on the plastic casing? Or on the lights blowing? Exhaust maybe can, if you get smoke blowing through your car they could say you did the exhaust badly - but warranty is only really affected if there is some way in which they could show that the changes you've made was a possible cause of the issue. A warranty is effectively a contract with Hyundai that unless you've done something that could have created the problem, they have to fix it.
Post by: Thumper on November 27, 2008, 10:05:40
Anything else, it's up to Hyundai to show that what I have modified has caused another item to fail. 8)
In saying that, I have the stock exhaust, stock tail lamps sitting in boxes in the garage. Headlamps, well, that's up to me, otherwise I'll just purchase new headlights.
ScangagueII is only a monitoring device, that can be removed easily. (No changes to the vehicle)
Rear spoiler is covered by Hyundai factory warranty, since it's a factory part, painted by the factory.
HiD systems, obviously not covered by warranty, and if they blow, then 30 second job in reverting back to factory stock. (Everything expect the painting can be reverted back to factory condition)
Post by: YOSOYPEPO on November 27, 2008, 13:58:44
Post by: Rubix on November 27, 2008, 14:07:13
thank you very much ThumperDitto. Can't wait to try doing this. Reckon I'd get in trouble if I did one Red, one Blue? :evil:
Post by: i30 Roolz on December 26, 2008, 03:30:39