Tha Original i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => GENERAL => Topic started by: mjt57 on April 19, 2012, 10:56:28
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The odo of my CRDi i30 is about to hit 7,000 km (about 4,000 miles). Here in Australia we are offered an "optional" 7,000km service. The manual indicates that 15,000 km is the first real service.
Just wondering; what do they do with this 7,000 km service and if anyone here has had it done how much did it cost you?
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I just had the "intermediate" service done on my i30 CRDi (22 500 km). The service handbook will tell you if it is recommended at all (depends on the type of driving you do). I got mine done as it is part of my lease arrangement.
Basically it is an oil change and check of the car (recall and service campaigns) and an all over check of the condition of everything. They rotated the tyres and checked fluid levels.
I had the service conducted at the local Hyundai dealer and the price was $206.95. You could probably (read, no doubt) get it done cheaper at another place, but hey, it was part of my lease.
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I thought it was a 7500 km service, but I had it done on mine because I wanted to get the oil changed after the initial run-in period.
I then got it serviced at 15,000 kms & subsequently at 15,000 km intervals.
If the car hasn't been used in extreme conditions I wouldn't think it too necessary but I just wanted it done to drain the "new car" oil and get the good stuff in there.
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I did the same as you Dave with our CRDi :goodjob: WE did Trish's 2.0 Petrol at 12 months which was about 8000kms I think :confused:
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I did the same as you Dave with our CRDi :goodjob: WE did Trish's 2.0 Petrol at 12 months which was about 8000kms I think :confused:
:lol: I'm glad you've got the "WE" down pat :goodjob2:
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Just do it ya self mate, bugger payin a car mechanic whose probably flat out tyin his own shoes $90 an hour to spin a filter, drop some oil, top it up. And then leave his greasy bloody hand prints everywhere, not to mention the test drive!
It's your car so you'll probably do a better job anyway
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I didn't bother..... :undecided:
If I was fit enough to still do my own changes, oil was still $15 for 5 litres and a filter still cost $7, I may very well have done it....... :lol:
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I haven't done any intermediate services.
Just 15,000, 30,000 and yesterday, 45,000.
Yesterday and the 30,000 cost me $Nil. :happydance: :happydance: :cool:
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I like to express my contempt for the suggested 7,500 service with this quote from Homer:
Homer takes Lisa to the museum and sees the sign,
`Suggested donation: $4.50'.
Homer: Eh, what do you mean by `suggested donation'?
Clerk: Pay any amount you wish, sir.
Homer: And uh, what if I wish to pay ... zero?
Clerk: That is up to you.
Homer: Ooh, so it's up to me, is it?
Clerk: Yes.
Homer: I see. And you think that people are going to pay you $4.50 even though they don't have to?
Just out of the goodness of their... [laughs]
Well, anything you say! Good luck, lady, you're gonna need it!
I also note that Ryco state that filters become more effective as they catch particles, so by replacing the filter every 7.5k you may actually increase the engine wear? Better to put the coin into better oil at the 15k interval in my humble opinion and spend the savings on beer.
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I also note that Ryco state that filters become more effective as they catch particles, so by replacing the filter every 7.5k you may actually increase the engine wear? Better to put the coin into better oil at the 15k interval in my humble opinion and spend the savings on beer.
Sorry have to disagree with Ryco,
If the filter is designed to capture particulates of ?+ microns, then that's what it will do new. A dirty filter still traps the particulates, but there are less pathways for oil to flow through thus reducing oil flow & possibly causing increased wear. :exclaim:
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A filter is either working (not blocked) or not, although obviously there can be a period when it is nearly blocked and most oil will bypass it but I've never seen a suggestion that filters only last (say) 7500km. Whatever the effective life of a filter I would suggest that changing the filter with the oil is nothing more than a convenience. When recommended changes are at 20-30k do they ask that the filter be changed more often? I don't think so.
I change mine at 15k with log book services even if I change the oil more often - which I do.
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Either way, its 15k for me.
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My diesel CW is about to hit 7500km after about 10 months of mainly city driving. So I might get to 9000 by the end of the car's first year.
So should I be getting the normal 15000 km service after 12 months irrespective of km? (as Dazzler has done). Or is the optional service sufficient?
Really happy with the car, running so well. Only problem seems to be that it attracts idiots to run into it it car parks. Has happened 3 times. Small marks but very annoying.
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So should I be getting the normal 15000 km service after 12 months irrespective of km?
You ought really change the oil every 12 months. While it might be possible to justify not having the other annual checks done but you might just as well stick to 12 monthly services and forget the mileage and have no concern with warranty disputes.
My wife's Getz does less than yours and now it's out of warranty I'm doing my own servicing and I change the oil annually and the other service items at the standard distance intervals. Means it's all outa step but as I'm doing it myself I can handle it.
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Only problem seems to be that it attracts idiots to run into it it car parks. Has happened 3 times. Small marks but very annoying.
I can relate to that, my car is starting to look like it's made from corrugated iron.... :confused: :mad:
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Only problem seems to be that it attracts idiots to run into it it car parks. Has happened 3 times. Small marks but very annoying.
I can relate to that, my car is starting to look like it's made from corrugated iron.... :confused: :mad:
And mine after 3.5 years is pristine. :happydance:
I don't park in car parks except when absolutely necessary and even then I park well away from as many cars as I can and if I have to park next to one I try to pick which... :sweating:
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And mine after 3.5 years is pristine. :happydance:
I don't park in car parks except when absolutely necessary and even then I park well away from as many cars as I can and if I have to park next to one I try to pick which... :sweating:
Ever noticed when you park far away, someone will come and park next to you :(
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And mine after 3.5 years is pristine. :happydance:
I don't park in car parks except when absolutely necessary and even then I park well away from as many cars as I can and if I have to park next to one I try to pick which... :sweating:
Ever noticed when you park far away, someone will come and park next to you :(
I have :)
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I changed my new i30's oil and filter at 3,500klm, and will do so again at 7,000klm, then let Hyundai do the book service at 15,000. No way in the known universe will I leave a new car with Frith knows what oil in it until 15,000klm.
When I drained the oil at 3,500klm it felt stuffed. (And yes, I know it should be black! :winker:)
I used genuine Hyundai filters and the correct oil and am very glad I did it!
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I changed my new i30's oil and filter at 3,500klm, and will do so again at 7,000klm, then let Hyundai do the book service at 15,000. No way in the known universe will I leave a new car with Frith knows what oil in it until 15,000klm.
When I drained the oil at 3,500klm it felt stuffed. (And yes, I know it should be black! :winker:)
I used genuine Hyundai filters and the correct oil and am very glad I did it!
What type of oil are you using :question:
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Ever noticed when you park far away, someone will come and park next to you :(
Next time I go to the supermarket and there is a car all on its lonesome I'm going to park next to it.... :lol: :lol: :lol: :whistler: :whistler:
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See what I mean :exclaim: :exclaim: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
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I used Castrol EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4
http://castroledge.com.au/oils/5w-30-a3/b4 (http://castroledge.com.au/oils/5w-30-a3/b4)
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:cool!: :goodjob2:
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I used Castrol EDGE 5W-30 A3/B4
http://castroledge.com.au/oils/5w-30-a3/b4 (http://castroledge.com.au/oils/5w-30-a3/b4)
Interesting isn't it? I tried that as my first change also but I didn't leave it in long because it didn't "sound" right. You didn't like the original because it didn't "feel" right. All very subjective. :confused:
Anyway, I do think there are better oils than that Castrol for the diesel. I'd happily put it in the petrol though. Just IMO. :cool:
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Supercheap has Mobil 1 5w-50 for under A$60 at the moment ... :goodjob:
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I hope you are not suggesting anyone use that Dazz? Far too thick I'd reckon. :fum:
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I hope you are not suggesting anyone use that Dazz? Far too thick I'd reckon. :fum:
I nearly grabbed some for Trish's petrol CW (But still have some Castrol Edge Sport Left)
I thought the higher figure didn't matter so much if it started at 5W ?? (I thought going up to 50 just made it cope better with hot engines??)
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The second figure tells how thick it will be at a nominal running temperature of 100oC. It is this running viscosity that is important once the engine is warmed up and irrespective of how thick it starts it's where it finishes that counts. Our engines don't get hot enough to thin a 50 down to correct running viscosity. If it was tracked, then that's different.
Going too thick will just make the engine sluggish and reduce economy. Also, 5w50 will be much thicker at startup than a 5w30 even though both share the 5w because the 5 is not an absolute viscosity figure.
None of our cars have a recommendation to go thicker than 40.
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Thanks Pip that makes me look a bit thick :confused: :whistler: :winker:
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Thanks Pip that makes me look a bit thick :confused: :whistler: :winker:
Not really Dazz, just somewhere in the 50's like me (and the oil) :lol:
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Thanks Pip that makes me look a bit thick :confused: :whistler: :winker:
It was my pleasure. :lol:
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I just had my 7,500 km "optional" service done. I wasn't comfortable about it running to 15,000km on the original oil without it being changed.
Cost was $280 AUD. I pick the car up in about 2 hrs time. I'll check the invoice to see what was done.
I commented on the high fuel consumption. According to the brochures they claim 4.5l/100 km. I'm getting around 6.3. While that's good by anyone's standard, it falls well short of the advertised claims and what people are reporting here. So, maybe they will have looked at it.
Also, HALO wasn't functioning. I asked about it. They said that the salesmen requested that these features be turned off during pre-delivery as it's their experience that it's not a feature that's popular with customers.
I asked that it be enabled. Also, I asked that if there are any other features that were turned off to have them turned on.
Will see how it all pans out when I pick it up.
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Ouch! $280 for an oil change....... :Shocked:
Probably only around the $100 mark for oil and filter.....
I wonder what else they'll say they did to justify those sort of dollars? :undecided:
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Ouch! $280 for an oil change....... :Shocked:
Probably only around the $100 mark for oil and filter.....
I wonder what else they'll say they did to justify those sort of dollars? :undecided:
haha "workshop consumables, full scantool download - no faults found, miscellaneous" just some of the things that spring to mind
bloody dealers :mad:
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Ouch! $280 for an oil change....... :Shocked:
Probably only around the $100 mark for oil and filter.....
I wonder what else they'll say they did to justify those sort of dollars? :undecided:
:whsaid:
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Here are the costs breakdown:
2.92 for a sump plug gasket
$27.87 for an oil filter "service kit"
$7.58 for Hyundai fuel injector cleaner
$1.49 for washer fluid (a bottle of the stuff that I use costs about $5 at Super Cheap Auto)
$75 for C3 fully synth 5W-30 oil
$8 for workshop supplies
$7 for enviro waste disposal
$75 for the actual service (labor costs)
All up it cost me about $225.
On the invoice it is marked down as "intermediate service" for 7,500 km. But the service booklet's 15k section has been stamped and the reminder sticker for next service is for the 30k one.
Oh, they gave me a complimentary car wash. But they didn't vac it out like they did for the initial "service".
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For a 7.5k optional service and the protection that you gained, I'd have done that myself.
A lot of members are using 0w-40 fully synthetic oil which gives that little more protection in hotter conditions and at about the same price or better if you buy on special.
By doing it yourself, assuming you're mechanically competent to complete these tasks, you have the protection of fresh oil, knowing you did it correctly & not voiding warranty because, who's to know, if you use Hy filters etc.
:wink:
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I wonder why they put in C3 oil? It's not necessarily wrong but not what is specified. :confused: ACEA B4 is.
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I wonder why they put in C3 oil? It's not necessarily wrong but not what is specified. :confused: ACEA B4 is.
C3 is low ash for DPF vehicles isn't it :exclaim:
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$8 for workshop supplies
Lunch for the apprentice that did the job...
They charge for everything and then chuck in this workshop supplies charge :fum:
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$8 for workshop supplies
They charge for everything and then chuck in this workshop supplies charge :fum:
TBH I really don't see a problem with it Dazz. Any workshop which is registered with Council and other regualtory bodies has to comply with a raft of rules and regulations and continually submit to inspections There's a cost associated with all this and I prefer to see it separated from the labour charges. Customers should be aware of what they are paying for.
Now, the actual labour charge per hour is another matter.
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Seems a funny description for it Trev :confused:
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I wonder why they put in C3 oil? It's not necessarily wrong but not what is specified. :confused: ACEA B4 is.
It should be ACEA B4 for non-DPF diesels here - it might be worth a question.
I agree with the reasoning about chaging the original run-in oil at 7500 kms and that is exactly what I did and I paid for it to be done as I don't do my own servicing.
It's just a peace of mind thing for me so I fully understand.
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I would guess that they are standardising oil across the range and C3 comes closest to universal. I'd ask what it was though - something I would have asked before the service. :wacko:
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I don't do my own servicing.
Anyone with a V12 van den plas probably dosen't :rofl:
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It's not a Volvo ;)
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$8 for workshop supplies
Lunch for the apprentice that did the job...
They charge for everything and then chuck in this workshop supplies charge :fum:
Not a bad little money spinner if you can get away with it.... :fum:
Bit like replacing wiper rubbers when they don't really need doing.....or charging $1.49 or more for a squirt of windscreen cleaner in the water bottle.... :whistler:
Really, what supplies are needed for an oil change? A rag to wipe the apprentices hands on?
Seems a funny description for it Trev :confused:
Wasn't Trev once involved in advertising? :whistler:
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$8 for workshop supplies
Lunch for the apprentice that did the job...
They charge for everything and then chuck in this workshop supplies charge :fum:
Not a bad little money spinner if you can get away with it.... :fum:
Bit like replacing wiper rubbers when they don't really need doing.....or charging $1.49 or more for a squirt of windscreen cleaner in the water bottle.... :whistler:
Really, what supplies are needed for an oil change? A rag to wipe the apprentices hands on?
Seems a funny description for it Trev :confused:
Wasn't Trev once involved in advertising? :whistler:
You don't seem to have any knowledge of how much is involved in maintaining and cleaning a workshop, the floor, the scrap oils/ filters, the tools, the storage requirements etc etc.
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You don't seem to have any knowledge of how much is involved in maintaining and cleaning a workshop, the floor, the scrap oils/ filters, the tools, the storage requirements etc etc.
Yeah Rusty, lift your game :snigger:
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$8 for workshop supplies
$7 for enviro waste disposal
Looks like they already charged for waste disposal though.
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You don't seem to have any knowledge of how much is involved in maintaining and cleaning a workshop, the floor, the scrap oils/ filters, the tools, the storage requirements etc etc.
Actually I do..... :)
And other businesses don't have operating expenses? :rolleyes:
Geez, Trev...you'll have to do better than that to convince me that slugging customers with a "bogus" charge is justified.... :p
Oh, and I betcha it doesn't cost them $7 to dispose of the waste oil either..... :whistler:
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You're entitled to your opinion Rusty.
I happen to believe you should pay for what you get AND the supplier should itemise each thing in as much detail as possible.
Hence I'm happy to get a bill which itemises small add on charges. If they are industry practice that;s fine.
Or you can go along to one of the proliferation of unregistered backyarders and get what you deserve for doing so (not "you" personally).
You'll also note I reserved judgement on the "labour" charge costs.
Hence you should not take my comments out of context in relation to "workshop charges" or "environmental levies" etc.
Rememeber that not many years ago, their were none of those. Why? Because operators had no legal obligations in relation to storage, transport and disposal of "scrap" or "waste".
Check out what a separator costs to buy and set up these days as just one of the extra costs facing workshops these days.
Having an local government employed environmental Health Officer in the family has made me even more aware of the obligations of automotive business operators (in particular) than I ever was.
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I wonder if the carbon tax will be itemised :question:
I agree with surferdude regarding the extra charges. Being in business is a complex issue. Just take taxation for example. In oz the business owner is required to collect gst and and submit bas statements, this means having software / computers / operators to facilitate this 1 function. Then there's wages, payroll tax if you're a big enough company, personal income tax for each employee, company tax, provisional accounting for annual leave, sick leave, long service leave, workers compensation, training guarantee levy and we haven't touched on the environment, inventory, local rates & taxes etc.
Who'd be a business owner these days :exclaim: :faint:
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I wonder if the carbon tax will be itemised :question:
:rofl:
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I wonder if the carbon tax will be itemised :question:
:rofl:
:rofl: X 2 + :lol: + :rolleyes:
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I wonder if the carbon tax will be itemised :question:
:rofl:
:rofl: X 2 + :lol: + :rolleyes:
:rofl:
Actually, didn't I see something on the news recently to that effect? I'm sure there was some discussion about certain companies or industries being required to itemise the carbon tax to prevent them price gouging.
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Even if it was itemised, I wouldn't know if the figure was correct. Even the "experts" can't agree whether global warming exists, or it's a natural Earth weather pattern & if it is, haven't we all been severely conned. Somehow, the government has managed to create an income source from it. Will this tax be allocated specifically for GW solutions, or does it get swallowed up into consolidated revenue. :fum:
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I reckon it would be quite amusing getting a bill for $X to remove the carbon buildup in your EGR valve or something then a surcharge for the carbon tax... :whistler:
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I reckon it would be quite amusing getting a bill for $X to remove the carbon buildup in your EGR valve or something then a surcharge for the carbon tax... :whistler:
You're idea of "amusing" and mine are quite different Dazz :undecided: :mrgreen:
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I reckon it would be quite amusing getting a bill for $X to remove the carbon buildup in your EGR valve or something then a surcharge for the carbon tax... :whistler:
You're idea of "amusing" and mine are quite different Dazz :undecided: :mrgreen:
Yeah, maybe the wrong word :confused: :lol:
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I get my car serviced every 7500km. I go to the dealer every 15k and the 7.5k inbetween is my own mechanic using genuine parts. i like to keep the oil new so the car in theory should last longer....
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With regards to carbon tax itemisation, the only place that I can figure out where a half way accurate calculation would be power stations, the supposed source of all this carbon pollution.
They'll be paying $23 a tonne. It's based on the carbon content in the fuel and how much of it that they burn.
So, the stuff is taxed at the source. Why then, should the service centre be slugged it as well? Isn't that double dipping?
And how do they calculate it? Based on power bills, perhaps?
This tax is one big con, and its paying for the Greens blackmail list of welfare freebies for those who, frankly, don't really deserve it.
Sorry if this aggravates those whose political leanings are left of centre (me, I'm a left win capitalist, myself), but that's my view of it. The CT is also one of the reasons why I bought the diesel i30...
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This tax is one big con, and its paying for the Greens blackmail list of welfare freebies for those who, frankly, don't really deserve it.
I can't argue with that!
I'm somewhat right of centre myself (in case that hadn't been noticed :lol:).
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With regards to carbon tax itemisation, the only place that I can figure out where a half way accurate calculation would be power stations, the supposed source of all this carbon pollution.
They'll be paying $23 a tonne. It's based on the carbon content in the fuel and how much of it that they burn.
So, the stuff is taxed at the source. Why then, should the service centre be slugged it as well? Isn't that double dipping?
The power company passes on the carbon tax to each consumer, who in turn, will pass it on to each customer. How the amount is calculated under this method is anyone's guess. There will be an opportunity for companies to add a margin of profit on this, provided they don't get greedy and trigger an investigation.
This tax is one big con, and its paying for the Greens blackmail list of welfare freebies for those who, frankly, don't really deserve it.
:agreed:
The CT is also one of the reasons why I bought the diesel i30...
Unfortunately, diesel owners have been specifically target to pay the carbon tax, not petrol or gas consumers. Thanks Julia, I won't forget this at the next election :mad:
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The power company passes on the carbon tax to each consumer,
Not really. The generators will find it difficult to pass it on. What they'll do is to rebid their generators in at higher prices. But this means that they will be offloaded first in preference to those greener generators (such as hydro, gas, etc) which will be bid in lower.
So, the pool price will be higher, but the coal fired stations won't be able to recoup their costs. Unlike say, Origin Energy or SP Ausnet which are already charging an arm and a leg for power (2-3 cents a kw/h at the generator terminals to 23 cents at the power point).
Unfortunately, diesel owners have been specifically target to pay the carbon tax,
How's that?
What I meant though, was that I bought the i30 because of its frugality, not necessarily because diesel is cleaner or whatever. At 5.5l/100 km it's a lot cheaper than my Tribute doing 13l/100km.
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Unfortunately, diesel owners have been specifically targeted to pay the carbon tax,
How's that?
What I meant though, was that I bought the i30 because of its frugality, not necessarily because diesel is cleaner or whatever. At 5.5l/100 km it's a lot cheaper than my Tribute doing 13l/100km.
Yes, so did I, but Gillard intends to impose a tax on diesel fuel specifically. The transport industry is fuming, and we should be complaining too. However, there aren't many private diesel vehicle owners in Oz, compared to Europe, so we don't get considered at all. Look for the new price for diesel in July. :fum:
You are obviously more in touch with the complexities of power generation & how it is currently sold to the grid. I know only 1 thing, they're not charities, so if they're charged, we will inevitably be charged too. :fum:
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Yes, so did I, but Gillard intends to impose a tax on diesel fuel specifically.
OK, I did not know that.
Thing is, passenger diesel sales are going through the roof. Surely the government must be aware of this?
You are obviously more in touch with the complexities of power generation & how it is currently sold to the grid. I know only 1 thing, they're not charities, so if they're charged, we will inevitably be charged too.
Not as much as they would like (getting compensated for the CT with higher generation revenue).
To be honest, I don't know how it's going to pan out. Suggestions that we'll see a $23 a megawatt/hr increase in the average spot price post-July 1 are floating about. But until it comes into effect we really don't know how the energy market will respond.
As long as I can still afford to put diesel in my Cruddy (acronymising "CRDi") I'll be happy...
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As long as I can still afford to put diesel in my Cruddy (acronymising "CRDi") I'll be happy...
Glad I'm not the only one who thought of a nickname like that, we called ours Ruby, coz it's red, instead. :lol:
Currently there's a 10c/lt difference in petrol / diesel price in Adelaide. They're expecting another 10cents drop next week. If Gillard's tax increases the price of diesel, there will be an enormous difference between the two. :fum:
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She needs to feel the full force of a hi-flow diesel nozzle :whistler:
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Currently there's a 10c/lt difference in petrol / diesel price in Adelaide.
When I filled up last week it was a $1.48/l in Gippsland (east of Melbourne). Petrol was around the same price, although I didn't take much notice of actual price.
On the news last night both the price of diesel and petrol had dropped significantly (in Melbourne, at least). Diesel at one servo was listed at around $1.25/l. Petrol was a bit cheaper but not by much.
When I go home in the morning I'll see what the local servos are selling it for. I still have half a tank or about 400 kays to go before I need to fill up, which I expect will be sometime in the next two weeks. Hopefully I won't miss out on these discounts, although the price diff between what I paid last week and today's prices is about $8 a tank.
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Prices are slow to drop in Northern Tassie :fum: Still around $1.48 for Petrol and Diesel :mad:
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I was/am under the impression that diesel fuel is exempt for the time being from any carbon tax. I remember the truckies doing their riot/protest thing and then she dropped it for a few years....
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Clear as mud.
A price on carbon will not apply to fuel for off-road and on-road light transport by agriculture, forestry and fisheries. Households and small business will also be exempt from a carbon price on fuel. Although a 6c reduction in the off-road diesel fuel rebate will cause general pain for junior miners and for rural and regional business. There will also be a delay in the application of a carbon price on heavy on-road transport.
But I suspect that means carbon tax applicable to private users. Although the second sentence might suggest otherwise.
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Been trying to find an answer... I knew we wouldn't get slugged with the tax as our PM was not in a strong enough position to push that part through parliament :P
http://www.cleanenergyfuture.gov.au/transport-fuels/ (http://www.cleanenergyfuture.gov.au/transport-fuels/)
"On-road use by households and light commercial vehicles
Households and on-road commercial vehicles 4.5 tonnes and under currently pay the full rate of excise. They will continue to pay excise under current arrangements but will not also pay a carbon price on top of this."
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Thanks for that fact sheet, Bryan..... :goodjob:
The first sentence tells us we're not gonna be paying the carbon tax....
Households, on-road business use of light vehicles and the agriculture, forestry and fishery industries will not face a carbon price on the fuel they use.
Can't get much clearer than that.... :)
I also saw this:
A new wave of vehicles are becoming available that are cleaner and cheaper to run. Under new standards being introduced from 2015, all car companies will be required to reduce emission levels from vehicles they sell by introducing better technologies and adjusting the range of models they sell in Australia.
What's the bet this will be when we get a DPF fitted to Aussie i30's..... :undecided:
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What's the bet this will be when we get a DPF fitted to Aussie i30's..... :undecided:
What? I thought that we already had them now...
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Nope, we're lucky enough not to have them as yet.... :goodjob:
If you pop the bonnet on your car you should find a yellow sticker on the engine cover telling you that it does not have one fitted....
Here's a pic of mine, I assume yours will be similar, even though it's a later model......
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/rustynutz69/Sticker.jpg)
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"On-road use by households and light commercial vehicles
Households and on-road commercial vehicles 4.5 tonnes and under currently pay the full rate of excise. They will continue to pay excise under current arrangements but will not also pay a carbon price on top of this."
As much as I would like to believe it, I can't see how, when you read into the application of a carbon tax to producers, there won't be an under the counter increase in fuel prices.
The ACCC can't control the fuel companies now, so how will they prevent another couple of cents per litre being tacked onto the wholesale price?
Yeah. I know I sound cynical. But I've seen too many "good intentions" counteracted for the benefit of a few over the years to hope this will be any different.
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"On-road use by households and light commercial vehicles
Households and on-road commercial vehicles 4.5 tonnes and under currently pay the full rate of excise. They will continue to pay excise under current arrangements but will not also pay a carbon price on top of this."
As much as I would like to believe it, I can't see how, when you read into the application of a carbon tax to producers, there won't be an under the counter increase in fuel prices.
The ACCC can't control the fuel companies now, so how will they prevent another couple of cents per litre being tacked onto the wholesale price?
Yeah. I know I sound cynical. But I've seen too many "good intentions" counteracted for the benefit of a few over the years to hope this will be any different.
So if some are exempt, who IS paying it and who is going to determine who pays it.
Do I understand that whenever it is applied, a semi trailer will pay more than a private vehicle & the fuel operator determines this, I certainly hope not. :fum:
BTW Fuel in Adelaide Petrol 1.229 Diesel 1.445, unbelievable :fum: :fum:
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Nope, we're lucky enough not to have them as yet.... :goodjob:
Thanks. Will check it out.
As for being "lucky" not to have them, why's this? Do they affect performance, economy, etc.?
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Probably best you make use of this, Martin.... :winker:
https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?action=search (https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?action=search)
Try entering "DPF" :)
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Nope, we're lucky enough not to have them as yet.... :goodjob:
Thanks. Will check it out.
As for being "lucky" not to have them, why's this? Do they affect performance, economy, etc.?
Searching DPF will bring up a lot more info but basically, although Hyundai appears to use a very reliable brand of DPF with a very minimal failure rate, some owners with them don't like the regeneration process and the effect it has on economy (doesn't appear to effect performance much)
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Doesn't
Perform
Fully
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If you pop the bonnet on your car you should find a yellow sticker on the engine cover telling you that it does not have one fitted....
And yes, you're right. Mine has that sticker too...
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"On-road use by households and light commercial vehicles
Households and on-road commercial vehicles 4.5 tonnes and under currently pay the full rate of excise. They will continue to pay excise under current arrangements but will not also pay a carbon price on top of this."
As much as I would like to believe it, I can't see how, when you read into the application of a carbon tax to producers, there won't be an under the counter increase in fuel prices.
The ACCC can't control the fuel companies now, so how will they prevent another couple of cents per litre being tacked onto the wholesale price?
Yeah. I know I sound cynical. But I've seen too many "good intentions" counteracted for the benefit of a few over the years to hope this will be any different.
That's all totally fine... but the piont of this is that the carbon tax wont be put on fuel/diesel. If the servos/ oil companies put it up then that is not the carbon tax directly. :)
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Guys,
For the optional 7,500 service is there any risk of voiding the warranty if you do it yourself?
I mean I will buy a good oil that meets manufacturer specifications however with the oil filter
if I just get an OEM one will that be enough or do I have to get a Hyundai one?
Reason for asking is, when the next scheduled service occurs, if I install an OEM filter and they see
it they may start asking question.....
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Guys,
For the optional 7,500 service is there any risk of voiding the warranty if you do it yourself?
I mean I will buy a good oil that meets manufacturer specifications however with the oil filter
if I just get an OEM one will that be enough or do I have to get a Hyundai one?
Reason for asking is, when the next scheduled service occurs, if I install an OEM filter and they see
it they may start asking question.....
Most reputable filter companies guarantee their filters against causing any damage to your motor (so in theory they will cover you - but I guess it could get messy) :whistler:
The i30 Diesel is pretty much bullet proof (with only an extremely rare Turbo failure being reported) ..So I wouldn't be overly concerned about what they think.
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Speaking of optional services, I decided to get mine done a couple of months ago. However, it was closer to 10k than it was 7.5k. The service people stamped the booklet for the 7.5k one but the sticker on the window tells me that next service is the 30k one.
I shall have to call them to clarify which it is before the "mandatory" 15k rolls around.
Thing is, bullet-proof diesels or otherwise, the idea of running a brand new engine on its original oil to 15,000 km was somewhat off putting to this old school former motor mech, so I paid to have it done.
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I mean I will buy a good oil that meets manufacturer specifications however with the oil filter
if I just get an OEM one will that be enough or do I have to get a Hyundai one?
If you want to do the intermediate yourself why not do as I do and just change the oil and leave the filter alone. It will last the journey (as will the oil probably but a few quid for a few litres of oil is hardly wasted). Spend the money saved on the filter on top shelf oil instead. :wink:
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Guys,
For the optional 7,500 service is there any risk of voiding the warranty if you do it yourself?
I mean I will buy a good oil that meets manufacturer specifications however with the oil filter
if I just get an OEM one will that be enough or do I have to get a Hyundai one?
Reason for asking is, when the next scheduled service occurs, if I install an OEM filter and they see
it they may start asking question.....
Is the extra worry worth the few dollars you'll save by using an aftermarket filter? :undecided:
You can buy original Hyundai filters quite cheaply from Hyspares.....
http://www.hyspares.com.au/bluecart/products/885 (http://www.hyspares.com.au/bluecart/products/885)
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funny how you guys a referring a 7500 km maintenance as optional
over here in Canada every car manufacturers require oil changes every 8000km or every 6 months (first one that occurs)
Not doing so will prevent you from being able to claim the warranty if something on the engine breaks
With my i30cw I actually had to do an extra 3000km one as they wanted to make sure nothing broke on break-in procedure
only luxury cars like BMW tolerate 20000km services
(in Canada BMW is pretty much at the top of car hierarchy right before exotics)
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funny how you guys a referring a 7500 km maintenance as optional
(in Canada BMW is pretty much at the top of car hierarchy right before exotics)
IT is not 'us' who are referring it as an optional service. In the service passport, it clearly states "OPTIONAL INTERMEDIATE SERVICE 7,500kms".....This is how Hyundai decided to do it here in AUS...but of course I would have to agree with you that there is no way I am leaving my car on the same oil for 15000 or once a year.....All we argue is doing it ourselves instead of going to pay $300 for a filter and oil change......(and god knows what sort of oil they use)
And by the way BMW is very over-hyped nowadays, even they make lemons now.....I have friends who have problems with them! (Its part of cost cutting that pretty much all companies pursue now).
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Guys,
While still on topic,
Will I void warranty if I conduct the 7500km optional oil change myself??
Oil wise I am going to use Shell helix ultra which abides by hyundai's specs (B4) for the diesel,
and I will use a RYCO filter which (according to Ryco) also matches/exceeds Hyundai's specs....
I am a bit hesitant in doing it myself.....Has anyone else done it and been spoken to by the dealer?
I am more concerned about the oil filter as it is a RYCO and they might pull it out on the 15,000km service
and read the 'RYCO' wording and start asking question.
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Leave the filter in. It will last the year out. ;)
Who do you need to tell you changed the oil?
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Leave the filter in. It will last the year out. ;)
Who do you need to tell you changed the oil?
Thanks Pip, yeah the filter was the thing i was worrying most about as it can be traced back to me.....I guess ill just go and return it and get some more oil instead......
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Makes one wonder what brand of oil goes into the Hyundais at the factory, whether it be in Korea or Czech Republic. Does anyone know? Perhaps Singer Sewing Machine oil?. :fum: :Shocked:
But back on topic, like others I tend to think these intermediate services, i.e. 7500km, are a way to increase revenue at the Dealer's workshop. :rofl:
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Makes one wonder what brand of oil goes into the Hyundais at the factory, whether it be in Korea or Czech Republic. Does anyone know? Perhaps Singer Sewing Machine oil?. :fum: :Shocked:
But back on topic, like others I tend to think these intermediate services, i.e. 7500km, are a way to increase revenue at the Dealer's workshop. :rofl:
I changed the oil in my crdi at 7500 kms because I wanted to get the original oil out after running in. That and the fact that even the service manager at a major Hyundai service centre was unable to tell me what oil was used for all servicing.
That is when I started supplying my own oil.
Following the 7500 km service I had it done again at 15,000 kms then went to 15,000 km intervals.
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Either way, its 15k for me.
What I Do is change the oil ONLY on the intermediate service, and let the dealer change the filter/oil on the major services.
Changing the oil is a 30min job and as the diesel combusts in much higher pressure and temperatures that petrol - I believe for what is worth it is a good way to 'future proof' your engine.....
Most recommended (by me :rolleyes:) oils are on special most of the time..
In fact repco has the Shell helix 5w40 for $42 and Valvoline synpower 5w40 for $49 at the moment!
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Makes one wonder what brand of oil goes into the Hyundais at the factory, whether it be in Korea or Czech Republic. Does anyone know? Perhaps Singer Sewing Machine oil?. :fum: :Shocked:
But back on topic, like others I tend to think these intermediate services, i.e. 7500km, are a way to increase revenue at the Dealer's workshop. :rofl:
Funny thing is when I got my car it had the sticker of CASTROL MAGNATEC on the window. I would never go even near the Magnatec range (IN AUSTRALIA ONLY) for the i30 Diesel.
I change the oil on the 6,000km (Couldn't wait for 7,500) and even when the engine was cold that 'thing' was like water. It had lost all its viscosity!!
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Makes one wonder what brand of oil goes into the Hyundais at the factory, whether it be in Korea or Czech Republic. Does anyone know? Perhaps Singer Sewing Machine oil?. :fum: :Shocked:
But back on topic, like others I tend to think these intermediate services, i.e. 7500km, are a way to increase revenue at the Dealer's workshop. :rofl:
I changed the oil in my crdi at 7500 kms because I wanted to get the original oil out after running in. That and the fact that even the service manager at a major Hyundai service centre was unable to tell me what oil was used for all servicing.
That is when I started supplying my own oil.
Following the 7500 km service I had it done again at 15,000 kms then went to 15,000 km intervals.
The irony here is how can you even be sure that if you supply your own oil they won't just take it and use their instead?
I never trust the dealers unless I am inside the workshop and see step-by-step what they are doing.
This is why I do the intermediate oil changes myself - because I think of it like the worse case scenario - IF they use 'bad' oil on the schedule services - At least I will use 'good' oil on the intermediates!!!
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I would never go even near the Magnatec range (IN AUSTRALIA ONLY) for the i30 Diesel.
It would be nice if people would explain themselves when writing such things. I don't know what oil that my dealer uses, but if it's Castrol then I (and many others, I'd assume) wouldd like to know why this concerns you.
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Makes one wonder what brand of oil goes into the Hyundais at the factory, whether it be in Korea or Czech Republic. Does anyone know?
For Oz (Korean) I was told Shell and I think it was Rusty that had a similar confirmation. I assume something like the retail Helix Ultra 5w40.
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I would never go even near the Magnatec range (IN AUSTRALIA ONLY) for the i30 Diesel.
It would be nice if people would explain themselves when writing such things. I don't know what oil that my dealer uses, but if it's Castrol then I (and many others, I'd assume) wouldd like to know why this concerns you.
The Magnatec is what I'd call a 3rd tier oil and, off the top of my head, none with that name are ACEA B4 which is the basic requirement (for diesel in Oz).
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The irony here is how can you even be sure that if you supply your own oil they won't just take it and use their instead?
I ask for the container(s) back because as I do all our three cars I've never enough empties for old oil. It's unlikely that a dishonest employee will bother to decant your oil just to steal it. More likely just steal the boss's.
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I would never go even near the Magnatec range (IN AUSTRALIA ONLY) for the i30 Diesel.
It would be nice if people would explain themselves when writing such things. I don't know what oil that my dealer uses, but if it's Castrol then I (and many others, I'd assume) would like to know why this concerns you.
A chap called Michael Harper who was a member on here for a good while used to be a Hyundai service manager and he said he had some really bad experiences with Magnatec... Said to definitely not use it.
2i30's also had it put in his petrol i30's by the dealer in the early part of his ownership and had to keep topping it up :Shocked: so he now gets a better quality oil put in and the problem has disappeared (I believe) :cool:
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I would never go even near the Magnatec range (IN AUSTRALIA ONLY) for the i30 Diesel.
It would be nice if people would explain themselves when writing such things. I don't know what oil that my dealer uses, but if it's Castrol then I (and many others, I'd assume) wouldd like to know why this concerns you.
HEy yeah sorry should have explained myself. but as pip explained none of the mangatec oils are B4 spec which is a prerequisite for the diesel. THey don't even pretend to be full synthetic. Only the Castrol edge titanium are....
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The irony here is how can you even be sure that if you supply your own oil they won't just take it and use their instead?
I never trust the dealers unless I am inside the workshop and see step-by-step what they are doing.
This is why I do the intermediate oil changes myself - because I think of it like the worse case scenario - IF they use 'bad' oil on the schedule services - At least I will use 'good' oil on the intermediates!!!
This is why in the early life of my i30 I used the dealership mobile servicing van (because I supplied the oil and was there when it was serviced) and following that, I used a local workshop I could trust.
I wouldn't use a dealership which wasn't even able to tell me what oil they used in the diesel i30 when I asked. :disapp:
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HEy yeah sorry should have explained myself. but as pip explained none of the mangatec oils are B4 spec which is a prerequisite for the diesel. THey don't even pretend to be full synthetic. Only the Castrol edge titanium are....
I don't know for certain but I doubt many (any?) of the oils we have been discussing here are actually fully synthetic in the sense that they contain no mineral oil content - even if highly refined.
My guess would be that only the 0w40 oils are likely to have 100% or at least a major percentage of synthetic base oil. The others might have some or none. Castrol Edge Titanium 5w30 is unlikely to have any with its base oil a group 3, not 4 nor 5. Only 4 and 5 are true synthetic in the sense that they are NOT derived from mineral oil.
Whether that is important is open to debate. :undecided:
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HEy yeah sorry should have explained myself. but as pip explained none of the mangatec oils are B4 spec which is a prerequisite for the diesel. THey don't even pretend to be full synthetic. Only the Castrol edge titanium are....
Whether that is important is open to debate. :undecided:
Totally agree with you pip - but I think for an every day commuter on an every day car I do not think it is quite relevant. IF I owed a ferrari Oh yes I would spend top dollar for the oil....
However Going from a shell helix to a mobil1 I do not think I will see a difference (short or long term) other than to my wallet.
LIttle story: My little brother has inherited a Hyundai excel 98 (Ow those where those days) from me and it has done 300,000k on the clock.
Bought it used 10 year ago and honestly it has been treated like sheet - We never even used to keep to the scheduled oil interval changes - and when we did We would put whatever crap oil we could find - sometimes the full mineral staff you get from the supermarkets!
Still goes without ANY problems whatsoever - Those where those days that things were built to last - I think it can do another 100,000km with ease! I take care of it now - changing the oils on the intervals but still using cheap staff like valvoline engine armor or shell helix HX5 or Castrol magnatec whatever is on special!
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Wights Motor World (www.wights.com.au (http://www.wights.com.au)) where I bought my i30 and where I've had it serviced uses Havoline 5w30 fully synthetic oil in Hyundai diesels that it services. Hopefully that's OK. If not, then it's on it if the engine fails due to poor lubrication.
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Wights Motor World (www.wights.com.au (http://www.wights.com.au)) where I bought my i30 and where I've had it serviced uses Havoline 5w30 fully synthetic oil in Hyundai diesels that it services. Hopefully that's OK. If not, then it's on it if the engine fails due to poor lubrication.
I hope it's this one.
http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/ProductDescription.aspx?ID=1800 (http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/ProductDescription.aspx?ID=1800)
and not this one.
http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/ProductDescription.aspx?ID=1772
(http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/ProductDescription.aspx?ID=1772)
The first is B4 C3, the second a B5 C2 and is too skinny. Even the first one, the C3 is formulated for a DPF and IMO compromises the absolute robustness of a strong B4 specification. We don't have a DPF so why use that oil? Possibly it's the convenience of a more universal oil that suits a wider range of engines?
Having said that, I would not expect any problem using it. Even if it did get a little extra wear or whatever... it probably wouldn't show in the normal life of the engine of several hundreds of ks and probably well beyond both the warranty and your ownership.
My take is that things like oil and tyres for instance should be selected in the same way that we selected our cars in the first place; I try to get the best fit for the defined task.
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All I can say is OILS AIN'T OILS. :whistler: We are very fussy with our favourite oil.
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I hope it's this one.
http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/ProductDescription.aspx?ID=1800 (http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/ProductDescription.aspx?ID=1800)
and not this one.
http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/ProductDescription.aspx?ID=1772
(http://www.caltex.com.au/ProductsAndServices/Pages/ProductDescription.aspx?ID=1772)
Thanks for those links.
When I take it in for its 15,000km service soon I'll take in both data sheets and ask which one it is.
But we have to assume that as a Hyundai dealer (sales and service) that Wights would be using the correct oil. Otherwise it bares its arse if engines start failing...
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But we have to assume...
:Yeah: :oops:
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SO.... after reading all these posts... What oil does the Hyundai Dealership use? I have asked in the past but hvae forgotten! lol
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SO.... after reading all these posts... What oil does the Hyundai Dealership use? I have asked in the past but hvae forgotten! lol
I don't know because I asked the service manager of a large Hyundai dealership here in W.A. and he wasn't able to tell me, saying that it was a "blend" that they use for lots of cars.
That is why I decided to always supply my own oil so that I know what is going into it.
Since then, I have always used Shell Helix Ultra.
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SO.... after reading all these posts... What oil does the Hyundai Dealership use? I have asked in the past but hvae forgotten! lol
I don't know because I asked the service manager of a large Hyundai dealership here in W.A. and he wasn't able to tell me, saying that it was a "blend" that they use for lots of cars.
That is why I decided to always supply my own oil so that I know what is going into it.
Since then, I have always used Shell Helix Ultra.
And I think this is the correct answer... because there is no "Hyundai" formulated oil the dealer will use whatever they can get that (presumably) meets the manufacturer's specification.
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SO.... after reading all these posts... What oil does the Hyundai Dealership use? I have asked in the past but hvae forgotten! lol
I will be taking my own oil to the dealrship (in this case either the Shell Ultra or something similar). Not only I will save money I am making sure they are putting in a decent oil Regardless of what they use.
Funny that because when I bought the car there was a "CASTROL MAGNATEC" sticker on the windows and I am not a big fan of castrol oils especially the magnatec range which is not a very good oil.
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SO.... after reading all these posts... What oil does the Hyundai Dealership use? I have asked in the past but hvae forgotten! lol
I don't know because I asked the service manager of a large Hyundai dealership here in W.A. and he wasn't able to tell me, saying that it was a "blend" that they use for lots of cars.
That is why I decided to always supply my own oil so that I know what is going into it.
Since then, I have always used Shell Helix Ultra.
This is a bit of a worry for me. What is this "blend", a blend of different oils from different manufacturers. This possibility might eventuate if those of us who supply our oil get tipped into a common vessel. How many of us actually see our oil going into our cars. :undecided:
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That is a concern.
I took it to mean a general blend that they might use for many different types of vehicles they service, without regard to meeting specific requirements of each manufacturer.
I got around it by using their mobile service so I was there when the service was performed.
And later, I went to my own trusted mechanical workshop.
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This is a bit of a worry for me. What is this "blend", a blend of different oils from different manufacturers.
I'm assuming a "blend" means a mixture of base oil plus a dash of this and that to make a "brand" oil - a marketed name oil.
This is how all oils are made. Nothing sinister here Phil.