The Original i30 Owners Club
GENERAL STUFF => GENERAL DISCUSSIONS => Random Chit Chat => Topic started by: rustbucket on November 27, 2008, 21:53:31
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Hi all,
Back at the dealers the other day getting the 1000k service @ 1800k (bit overdue) but all good. As I have mentioned in past posts that I had the car rustproofed before delivery as the price with tint as a package was good. However while sorting out the guarantee certificates, it was discovered that the Rust proofing was done on i30 mark1 but not i30 mark2. I was offered two options to have the Wax option (2 hours) or the Electronic version (20min). We opted for the Electronic Version ( Ming Ultimate- good warranty) Now I have not had any experience with Electronic Rust inhibitors on past cars and I have read where Surf Clubs in OZ use them on 4WDs on the beach with some claimed success. Have any members had one installed for any length of time and to what effect? I know how they work and the theory sounds correct, but in practice what?
Regards,
Rustbucket.
PS still have shipping oil dripping from doors etc.
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I too am interested in hearing the answer to this.
This is what I found when I did a little Google poking:
http://www2b.abc.net.au/science/k2/stn/archives/archive52/newposts/390/topic390659.shtm
From: Alan™ ® 21/03/2003 21:08:28
Subject: re: Electronic Rust-Proofing post id: 390669
No they don't work.
A car has too many parts that are electrically isolated from the other parts. Such a device works on something like a pipe line, where you have very good electrical contact.
From: Alan™ ® 21/03/2003 22:03:14
Subject: re: Electronic Rust-Proofing post id: 390773
Sorry Rule 303 for taking so long, I'll explain further to the best or my understanding.
Certain parts may be connected back to the battery and act as the negative pathway. These are often things like the lights and they would be connected fairly well to the chasis. But parts like the door panels are connected to the chassis by hinges etc and the hinges are connected in grease that isolate to panel.
There is a form of corrosion, known as crevice corrosion, where small electrical circuits are set up between a large surface are and a hole, where moisture is present. Within this area you get variation of pH and an potential difference (voltage) between the hole and the surface, which causes rust to occur. Although crevice corrosion really applies at a fairly small scale (pin hole corrosion), a similar environment is set up on the macro level with the joins, moldings under the door etc. But the effect of the potential difference still applies and you still have moisture trapped in the dirt. The effect of the potential difference is that it negates the possible difference between a weak electrical connection back to the electronic device or battery.
The best protection you can give your car against corrosion is having all the panels and the body fully gavanised. Not many cars are have the panels done, but most these days have the body fully galvanised. It's quite surprising which cars have the panels galvanised.
From: pooch ® 21/03/2003 22:34:23
Subject: re: Electronic Rust-Proofing post id: 390850
these electronic devices that they sucker you in to buy for car bodies may work if you put your car in salt water.
Sacrificial anodes work in boats in salt water because a metal boat in alst water is alike a battery and dissimilar metals in an electrolyte make current.
So the sacrificial anode is the least noble metal which for economic reasons is zinc, so if any metal on a boat is to be eaten away it will be the zinc, rust in cars DOES NOT GET PROTECTED THIS WAY
From: Alan™ ® 21/03/2003 23:50:28
Subject: re: Electronic Rust-Proofing post id: 391071
Every panel on my hyundai excel is galvanised, I also understand that mercs are fully galvanised. They have overcome the technical problems associated with the potential warping of panels associated with the hot dipping of the panels.
I'd expect if the Excel was galvanised, our i30's should be also...
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In short, it's not actually necessary, and it might not even work in the first place because the doors, boot, bonnet are all isolated from the frame by the grease in the hinges anyway.
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There is one possible benefit, as long as you connect a wire between the frame and each of the doors etc - "A cleaner car. Air-borne dust will no longer be statically attracted to your car." (from http://www.paintprotection.com.au/rust_proofing_rust_protection.php) - I don't know if it's worth $250 and upwards to reduce the amount of dust from falling on your car. Unless maybe you live in the Aussie desert?
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well, i have never had a car go rusty on me yet, might be cause i get new cars every three years or so? and i keep inside as have a large garadge under the house.
but i meet a guy a few years back that lived up the coast and he used some electronic device on everything, his cars 4WD his late model Harley, and his Boat, said they work and he has not had any rust problems with them fitted, they are a small box like object?
cheers
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Hmmmm?
I will monitor the general condition of the exterior and panel joints. I will also prepare a small piece of panel steel (painted and scratched) to attach to the car as a test piece and will let you know.
Rbucket
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Like I mentioned to the dealer when I bought the Tucson, if they need a device to prevent rust within the first 10 years, then there is something wrong with the design and the quality of the paint. My opinion, they are a waste of money, as is the canuba wax paint protection. The only one maybe worthwhile is the fabric protection, because i've seen those 3M scotch products in action.
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Like I mentioned to the dealer when I bought the Tucson, if they need a device to prevent rust within the first 10 years, then there is something wrong with the design and the quality of the paint. My opinion, they are a waste of money, as is the canuba wax paint protection. The only one maybe worthwhile is the fabric protection, because i've seen those 3M scotch products in action.
And you can get car seat covers which are spill-repellant as well. But agreed - Scotchguarding (or the new stuff they use because the original Scotchguard was found to be toxic) does definitely work - liquids bead rather than soaking through a properly protected fabric.
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I was offered electonic rust protection tor my i30 SLX, but being an oldie, I am suspicious of its credability to stop rust, so I opted for the good old sticky stuff being sprayed and put into door and crevices.
It also has some degree of road noise quieting. However an elctonic 24 hour system must have some drain on the battery, which could be a problem. I wonder if it uses amps or milliamps?
Re such protection, our Mascot aerodrome is built on a saltwater swamp and the O/S Terminal sits on very long steel piles. A big battery charger device provides amps to these piles in order to prevent rust deterioration. I hope it works for them?
I noticed in the show case of our 4 wheel drive shop, electronic rust protectors and outwardly they are about 10 cms diameter x 2cm's thick.
Good luck to anyone using them, you might need it!
Merry XMAS from old Dave
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Re such protection, our Mascot aerodrome is built on a saltwater swamp and the O/S Terminal sits on very long steel piles. A big battery charger device provides amps to these piles in order to prevent rust deterioration. I hope it works for them?
The stuff that I've read on the site I mentioned says that under severe conditions such as salt water (eg boats) the use of electronic devices such as these is useful. Jeeps used for beach driving could benefit. But your everyday suburbia i30 shouldn't rust during it's lifetime.