The Original i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: mpacaric on December 10, 2012, 12:47:59
-
i30 1.6 CRDi 90 2010g.
When I start the car in the morning, the rpm are going up/down. They vary between 1200-1300 about 10 seconds and then drop to normal and the engine noise is also strange.
Something like this:
Santa Fe F/L CRDi 2.2 cold start (-15) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmCaLpJJaTM#ws)
The last two winters I had no such problems.
Before 3-4 weeks it's been cold also and I had no problems. The only difference is that on Friday I was in the service, and they found out that they have fueled the wrong oil (5W40 instead of 5W30, because I have a DPF).
Is it possible that this happens because of the other oil?
-
Is it possible that this happens because of the other oil?
No. If yours is like this then it's simple misfiring (incomplete combustion in one or more cylinders) which for my guess is either fuel metering or more likely one or more glow plugs not heating.
I am not a mechanic. :confused:
-
Yup, its the glow plugs.
-
Last winter mine did something similar, but not as bad as the Santa Fe in the video, when there was 2 dead glow plugs.
You should be able to get them replaced under warranty.
Did the dealer put wrong oil in your engine at the last service.. :question:
-
Hey mpacaric, didn't see it was your first post.
Welcome to the forum.. :mrgreen:
Where are you located.. :question:
-
Welcome to the forum. :goodjob2:
-
Welcome
Your problems are in the rev range 500-1000. For a diesel engine, that is a bad problem, a good way to break the crankshaft. Get it sorted ASAP.
-
3 glow plugs broken, the first i30 in the service where I go with this :) in Croatia
Thank you for you info, because they said glow plugs are 99% ok :)
-
Glad you got it sorted quickly.
Did warranty cover the repair.. :question:
-
Good result :goodjob2:
-
good results, just thought i'd mention i've never had one problem with cold starts with my i30' CRDi's yet. i always watch glow plug light go out b4 tryinng to start, some say turn on turn off turn on then start after light goes off. but my new one light goes off fast. they say if you don't wait this can cause glow plugs to have a shorter life span. but just what others tell me. i helped a guy at work once start a truck that was turning motor strong but would not fire up. i pull top off air intake & sprayed "Start Ya Barstard" down the intake when we turned it over & it started. bit rough but got him going.
-
Last winter when we had -19 ºC the i30 would start as soon as the glow light went out.
It do light for a longer time when cold.
On VW's TDI engines the glowplugs keep going for another 30-40 seconds after the light go out, I would expect that to happen on Hyundai's CRDi engines as well, thus the on-off-on would only be usefull under very severe conditions, or if one or more glowplugs is dead.
-
The glow plug light goes out almost instantly on my new car whereas I had to wait a few seconds on the old one.
I hope they haven't configured it to go off more quickly than it should to appease the "non-diesel" people.
-
Does it vary with temperature at all :question:
-
Only had it twelve days and the temps have been quite consistent but I haven't noticed any difference day to day.
I'll keep an eye on it.
First thing in the morning though on the old car I'd have to wait a few seconds but not with this one - if you're not quick you miss seeing the light.
-
I was today at the service to change all 4 , and the worst thing happened. 1 broke up, they have to disassemble the whole motor :(((((((.
Does anybody know how the motor will react after that?
Warranty covered all the costs....
-
As long as they get it all out and don't score the bore. I wonder how far the'll go. If they take the piston out and clean the bore properly, all will be ok. It's a big job though. :neutral:
-
If it's done properly it will be all good.
-
This part has stay in the motor. Looks like bad quality.
http://sdrv.ms/UbJTe2 (http://sdrv.ms/UbJTe2)
(http://sdrv.ms/UbJTe2)
-
The skydrive link will not open. I guess your privacy setting does not allow public view.
-
try now
-
This part has stay in the motor. Looks like bad quality.
Yep. Leaving that glow-element in the cylinder will do it no good at all :eek:
-
I have the car and i'm driving it. They said it can't fall in the cylinder and maybe of the compression it will come out. the parts are going to be after the 1.1...
-
I don't understand how that can be.
Does it have a new glow plug in it now?
Where is the old part?
How can compression remove it, it there's a new one already fitted?
-
Hmm. The way you described it, I read it as the tip of the glowplug, highlighted in your picture, was broken off, and didn't come out when they removed the glowplug.
But, when you say you're driving it right now, I don't think that's the case. I wouldn't start the engine if this part was in there somewhere, as it can damage the engine seriously.. :scared:
-
This part has stay in the motor. Looks like bad quality.
http://sdrv.ms/UbJTe2 (http://sdrv.ms/UbJTe2)
Opened Ok for me. Hyundai generally uses quality components from companies like Bosch, Garrett etc.. (so must have been a bad batch) :undecided:
-
Hmm. The way you described it, I read it as the tip of the glowplug, highlighted in your picture, was broken off, and didn't come out when they removed the glowplug.
But, when you say you're driving it right now, I don't think that's the case. I wouldn't start the engine if this part was in there somewhere, as it can damage the engine seriously.. :scared:
Yes, the whole tip didn't come out. Like the 2 parts (the part that glows and the shell) just fall apart.
The service told me that no part can go to the engine because this tip is smaller at the end and bigger at the beginning. It's so build that this can't happend.
-
This part has stay in the motor. Looks like bad quality.
http://sdrv.ms/UbJTe2 (http://sdrv.ms/UbJTe2)
Opened Ok for me. Hyundai generally uses quality components from companies like Bosch, Garrett etc.. (so must have been a bad batch) :undecided:
Well this parts (glow plugs) is from YUGO tech...I don't know that company, you?
-
You say that they told you that the compression may blow the part out, this is highly dangerous as if the bonnet is open, injury could result, or at least damage to your car as well. If it did blow out, you wouldn't be able to drive tha car safely, so I think this is a bad idea.
-
You say that they told you that the compression may blow the part out, this is highly dangerous as if the bonnet is open, injury could result, or at least damage to your car as well. If it did blow out, you wouldn't be able to drive tha car safely, so I think this is a bad idea.
They shorten the other part and put it back. So that this part which is stuck can't make any damage. They said that only small part of compression would be gone (i would here the sound of the motor) and that i immediately change it.
-
I understand now, the threaded bit is still on the engine, that is good, thanks for explaining. :goodjob2:
-
I understand now, the threaded bit is still on the engine, that is good, thanks for explaining. :goodjob2:
:) no problem
-
I'm afraid that I don't understand this at all. Does anyone have a cross section drawing of the cylinder head to show the layout of the glow plugs?
-
Well the glow plugs have let's say 3 dimensions.
http://www.globalautomotive-industry.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/2.Glow-Plug-Manufacturers.gif (http://www.globalautomotive-industry.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/2.Glow-Plug-Manufacturers.gif)
1. The bigest is the head where you screw the plugs.
2. Then the part which goes into this bigger part (1)
3. This 2 part has smaller dimension on the end and only this end goes inside the chamber. (see pic)
In my case this 2 part is stuck.
-
If I understand you correctly you are saying that the glow plug tip - the part that extends into the cylinder (or swirl chamber) has parted from the main body and is stuck in the cylinder head. Thus is not glowing becase it is broken from the main body.
You seem also to be saying that the tip is stepped in diameter and only the very smallest part extends into the cylinder through a close tolerance hole. Because it is broken off further back at a larger diameter section - the tip cannot fall into the cylinder.
I then guess that the reference to compression is that the garage hoped that by removing the glow plug body and cranking the engine, there would be enough compression to free the siezed tip and blow it up and out of the glow plug socket. This didn't work so they are faced with removing the cylinder head to get at it.
Meanwhile they have replaced the glow plug body to maintain compression ratio just in case the tip is loosened and to stop it blowing out of the engine.
Or have I got it wrong?
-
That's how I understand it.
-
yes, that is correct.
-
That's how I understand it.
:whsaid: (good summary Alan, imho)
-
Even though they claim that the tip can't get into the combustionchamber, I would not feel good about running the engine.
If this tip is in some kind of prechamber, I would be afraid that it would rattle around in there because of the combustion pressure, and then break into smaller pieces that will eventually get into the cylinder. There will be some space between the prechamber and the cylinder to allow the heat from the glow plug to enter the cylinder.
If just a small part enters the cylinder, then... :scared:
As Alan said, a cross section drawing could maybe explain some things.
-
If the arrangement of the glow plug is as I imagine - I would have no worries about running with the tip (heated element) broken where it joins the main body. The shank of the tip is way too big in diameter to slide down the hole and into the swirl chamber (if the i30 has one?) or the cylinder.
-
And in fact, is currently seized in situ. If compression can't shift it, then there is a lengthy job ahead to fix it. It must have quite a build up of carbon deposits to lock it in like that.
-
The carbon tax should fix it.
It's going to fix everything, apparently. :undecided:
-
:rofl: :rofl: where's UM :snigger:
-
:rofl: :rofl: where's UM :snigger:
:lol: He'll be on here duly.......
-
Shields up, Captain :P
-
I posted a special cartoon for UM in the humour section. :D
-
The carbon tax should fix it.
It's going to fix everything, apparently. :undecided:
such cynicism lol
-
One question. Does the head of the motor needs to be polished on a special mashine befor putting it back?
-
In short yes it should be faced, but I've done heaps of head gasket and just cleaned the head and block deck up with no issues.
Depending on head bolt style, they should be either replaced or measured for stretch and thread deformation and replaced accordingly (torque to yield bolts)
*EDIT* i should also have said, if the dealer is removing the head for any warranty work i would expect them to have the head faced before refitment
-
In short yes it should be faced, but I've done heaps of head gasket and just cleaned the head and block deck up with no issues.
Depending on head bolt style, they should be either replaced or measured for stretch and thread deformation and replaced accordingly (torque to yield bolts)
*EDIT* i should also have said, if the dealer is removing the head for any warranty work i would expect them to have the head faced before refitment
:whsaid:
When we did headgasket's we measured the head for planeness. if within the manufactures limits, then no machining of the head.
If headbolts are stretchbolts, then allways replace. You don't want to brake one of those. :sweating:
-
Just to inform you, that the guys from my service managed to get out the plug without dismantling the head :)))).
They drilled a hole in the middle and build some custom tool and got it out.
-
Just to inform you, that the guys from my service managed to get out the plug without dismantling the head :)))).
They drilled a hole in the middle and build some custom tool and got it out.
:goodjob: :goodjob:
Would be curious to know where they drilled that hole, and how they managed to seal it again.
-
Just to inform you, that the guys from my service managed to get out the plug without dismantling the head :)))).
They drilled a hole in the middle and build some custom tool and got it out.
:goodjob: :goodjob:
Would be curious to know where they drilled that hole, and how they managed to seal it again.
I imagine they drilled a hole down the centre line of the broken tip - then used a stud extractor which would bite in the hole and give sufficient grip to rotate the tip to break the 'stiction' and pull it out.
-
Maybe I've misunderstood something. i thought the broken tip was loose somewhere.
If the broken tip was a threaded part, then i know how to get it out, we call that tool a "pig's cock"
-
I tried that once, snapped the extractor. :fum: