The Original i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: Paolo5 on January 22, 2013, 06:15:08
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I would like to change the coolant in my i30 diesel. Whilst I have done this in many cars over the years, I have not yet done it in my i30.
Has anyone done this job in the same vehicle?
I haven't looked yet....but is there a tap in the bottom of the radiator?
Are there any idiosyncrasies involved eg. does the system need to be bled of air before putting on the radiator cap when finished topping up?
Cheers,
Paolo
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Haven't changed the coolant, but last weekend I changed the oil, and I'm sure I saw a drainplug in the radiator.
I don't think there's a special way with the i30, just fill up when the engine is building up temperature, take it for a short spin, and let the car cool of. Then fill up again.
No worries.. :winker:
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Hi Asterix,
Many thanks for your input. I will have a look inside the coolant reservoir to see which coolant Hyundai has used...went to buy some coolant today and the salesman asked..."Green or orange?"
I will let you know how I get on.
Incidentally...LOVE the photo of your diesel with the caravan....I bought a 1976 model Topagee camper trailer 2 weeks ago and took it for our first holiday. My i30 pulled like a bull in springtime!! Very impressed with how useful the torque can be.
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Hi Asterix,
Incidentally...LOVE the photo of your diesel with the caravan....I bought a 1976 model Topagee camper trailer 2 weeks ago and took it for our first holiday. My i30 pulled like a bull in springtime!! Very impressed with how useful the torque can be.
Thanks. It is good, isn't it.
Now you just have to convince the rest of OZ that they don't need a big V8 4x4 to tow a caravan.. :snigger:
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Hi Paolo
the coolant should be green & premix. So you just pour into the reservoir.
BrightonSA
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Hi Asterix
Quote: last weekend I changed the oil
How did you change the oil in i30? I want to attempt to do it myself as well.
BrightonSA
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Hi Asterix
Quote: last weekend I changed the oil
How did you change the oil in i30? I want to attempt to do it myself as well.
BrightonSA
Hi BrightonSA,
You have probably already seen the link:-
https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10979.0 (https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10979.0)
An oil change on my i30 diesel is easy and mess-free (unlike the same job on my partner's MX5).
Cheers,
Paolo
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Quote:
Hi BrightonSA,
You have probably already seen the link:-
https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10979.0 (https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=10979.0)
An oil change on my i30 diesel is easy and mess-free (unlike the same job on my partner's MX5).
Hi Paolo
I have just visited the link. Yes, that will be me learning to change oil in 12 months time when warranty runs out.
BrightonSA
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Hi Asterix
Quote: last weekend I changed the oil
How did you change the oil in i30? I want to attempt to do it myself as well.
BrightonSA
Hi
it's really not that complicated.
Jack up the front of the car. DO use jacks to support the car, not just a hydraulic lifter.
Get a container of some sort for the used oil. Remove the oil drain plug. Let the oil run out until it stops dripping.
While oil running out, remove the oilfilter top and replace the filter element. Don't forget to change the o-rings that comes with the filter. Tighten oilfilter top again.
Fit the drain plug again with a new sealing ring, and get the car off the jack's again.
Apply the oil to the engine. When you have oil enough to reach the top point of the oilstick, start engine until oillight in dash goes out.
Then wait at least 5 minutes and check oil level again. Refill if necessary until oil level is at top.
Close bonnet, type in the servicebook your work, and job done. :mrgreen:
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Hi Asterix
Quote: last weekend I changed the oil
How did you change the oil in i30? I want to attempt to do it myself as well.
BrightonSA
Hi
it's really not that complicated.
Jack up the front of the car. DO use jacks to support the car, not just a hydraulic lifter.
Get a container of some sort for the used oil. Remove the oil drain plug. Let the oil run out until it stops dripping.
While oil running out, remove the oilfilter top and replace the filter element. Don't forget to change the o-rings that comes with the filter. Tighten oilfilter top again.
Fit the drain plug again with a new sealing ring, and get the car off the jack's again.
Apply the oil to the engine. When you have oil enough to reach the top point of the oilstick, start engine until oillight in dash goes out.
Then wait at least 5 minutes and check oil level again. Refill if necessary until oil level is at top.
Close bonnet, type in the servicebook your work, and job done. :mrgreen:
Thanks Asterix
I still have one more year warranty on my i30. After that I'll start doing these little jobs myself. For now, I am gathering information & leaning. :whistler:
BrightonSA
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Hi Asterix,
Many thanks for your input. I will have a look inside the coolant reservoir to see which coolant Hyundai has used...went to buy some coolant today and the salesman asked..."Green or orange?"
Only reason they ask this question is Green coolant is only good for two years MAX, where as orange or RED as most pPl call it is good for five years, you can go to your local mechanic and have your Coolant tested for a few dollars.
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I don't think he's called Max. :undecided:
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:rofl:
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I don't think he's called Max. :undecided:
:Dunno:
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you can go to your local mechanic and have your Coolant tested for a few dollars.
I bought an anti freeze tester at my local factors for, I think £3.00, many years ago.
I put the nozzle into the header tank, squeeze the rubber bulb on the top and it draws out a quantity of fluid.
A hydometer? bobs up/down in the fluid in the tube and by reading the scale itshows the strength etc.
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/tools/car-service-tools/cooling-system-tools1/anti-freeze-testers/?549777561&0&t5_393 (http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/tools/car-service-tools/cooling-system-tools1/anti-freeze-testers/?549777561&0&t5_393)
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you can go to your local mechanic and have your Coolant tested for a few dollars.
I bought an anti freeze tester at my local factors for, I think £3.00, many years ago.
I put the nozzle into the header tank, squeeze the rubber bulb on the top and it draws out a quantity of fluid.
A hydometer? bobs up/down in the fluid in the tube and by reading the scale itshows the strength etc.
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/tools/car-service-tools/cooling-system-tools1/anti-freeze-testers/?549777561&0&t5_393 (http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/tools/car-service-tools/cooling-system-tools1/anti-freeze-testers/?549777561&0&t5_393)
I have one of those, very easy to use, but it only tells you the anti-freeze point.
I think the main reason for the coolant to be changed with intervals, is because the anti-corrosion parts of it is deteriorating over time. I don't think the anti-freeze parts deteriorates.
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I have one of those, very easy to use, but it only tells you the anti-freeze point.
I think the main reason for the coolant to be changed with intervals, is because the anti-corrosion parts of it is deteriorating over time. I don't think the anti-freeze parts deteriorates.
Asterix your right
This is the way it was explained to me also,my mech let me watch him doing the test he did use the hydrometer do hicky,but as you said this was only for the anti-freeze side of it,for the anti corrosion side of it he used a strip almost like a litmus paper,once he dipped that in he header tank,he then lowered it into a chemical solution and if the coolant was cactus it would change colour or something similar,after ten minutes me attention span just spun off into Blah!Blah!Blah as he kept talking,the important bit was when he said it was ok for now.