The Original i30 Owners Club
GENERAL STUFF => GENERAL DISCUSSIONS => Random Chit Chat => Topic started by: LowEmissionI30 on June 10, 2008, 01:38:19
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When I picked up my turbo diesel, I checked to manual to see what I should do to break the engine in to give my car the best chance of being economical, generate good power and last long. According to the manual the engine is already pre-broken in (according to my dealer they run the engine on a stand with some special oil before they build it into the car) but one should still abstain from idling for more than 3 minutes, towing heavy trailers and racing the engine.
The idea is that one should take it easy for the first 1000km at least and they recommend running the engine between 2000 and 4000 revs.
I started off doing that but getting past 3000 revs felt like I was racing the engine so I re-read the instructions and realised that their specification of the 2-4000 revs applies to both petrol and diesel engines.
Now I am wondering if Hyundai just forgot to provide the right instructions for the diesel engine and simply provided those for the petrol engine without saying so...
Any insights into how best to break in the 1.6 liter CRDi engine would be most appreciated, including any views on when to do the first oil change (Hyundai recommend changing after 15000km under normal driving conditions but this strikes me as very long for the first oil change given the engine is still bedding in)
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I kept mine (1.6 turbo diesel manual) between 1,600rpm and 2,000rpm for the first 1,000km
For the next 1,000km I brought the revs up to 2,500rpm
After 2,000km, gave it a good run to the upper rev range! (Had a hiccup at 3,000rpm twice, will have the dealer look at the fuel filter next service)
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Thanks Thumper, I'll keep the revs low from now on but am rather annoyed at the entry in the handbook. Seems ridiculous that Hyundai advises owners to keep their engine revs between 2000 and 4000 rpm for the diesel engine and I feel a little stupid for not having questioned it until almost 200km into the run-in period
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Thumper,
That hiccup wouldn't happen to be a rev liiting type hiccup? That is, engine wouldn't rev passed 3000rpm?
If it is, there has been an issue with a few engines and Hyundai know about it. In ouri30 and in at least one other, they replaced the fuel filter unit and it solved the problem. I've detailed a fair amount of info regarding this on the Hyundai-forums and a little on here. If it occurs, stopping the engine, waiting a short time and restarting solves the immediate issue.
Have done over 10 000k since the replacement fuel filter and no more issues.
If it is this issue, why not phone the service manager and let him know so he can talk to Hyundai. I suspect they will ship your dealer a replacement and fit it at the next service.
Bob
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I was told there is not much need to worry with a run in period. This is because of the improvement in engine oils as well as the fact that the blocks these days are made of high quality alloys.
The service advisor at the dealership told me that i should vary the way i drive it for the first 1500k, not flog it but mix up my gear changes to work the engine in.
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ouri30, yeah, I suspect it's the fuel filter issue.
Have spoken to the dealership about this, they are aware of the issue and will replace the filter when I bring it in for the 7,500 service (Due very soon)
They'll also program the HALO system at the same time.
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Hey Thumper I'm toying with getting Halo enabled (reckon it's the only way I'd get one of those...
) But seriously the more I think about it the more sense it makes..
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Darryl, yours has been turned off as well?
Looks like it's a 50/50 chance that it's been turned on!
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Hi m8,
Got the impression from advertising and the brochure it was on by default but pretty sure the owners manual indicates it's off by default and can be turned on by dealer. Think some dealers must have decided to turn it on as part of pre-delivery (maybe in the dodgy parts of Australia
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dazz
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(maybe in the dodgy parts of Australia :lol:
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We thought ours had been turned on at pre-delivery as when we reached 40kph, the doors centrally locked. But we couldn't quite figure out the unlocking when we stopped. Front occupants could get out no problems, but rear passengers had to manually unlock their doors.
Then, at the 15 000k service, they said they activated what we thought was alread activated. Now, as before, it locks centrally at 40kph and then, when we stop, turn off the engine and remove the key, hey, presto, all doors centrally unlock. It's great.
Perhaps there are aspects of the Halo that can be setup to owners needs?
Bob
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I had similar questions, especially as I've got the diesel auto and am driving for the first time. Driving around town between 50-60km/h, to get it to rev over 2000rpm I have to put it into D2, and then it really doesn't sound as I think it should :)
Any ideas?
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I had similar questions, especially as I've got the diesel auto and am driving for the first time. Driving around town between 50-60km/h, to get it to rev over 2000rpm I have to put it into D2, and then it really doesn't sound as I think it should :)
Any ideas?
Just drive it normally. It's my opinion the guide is geared towards petrol engines. Just leave it in D.
Advice varies, but I:
Make sure it's warmed up, water temperature > 84c, before I go over 2000rpm.
Never go above 3000rpm.
Occasionally I will take it to 3000 rpm fairly sharply to try to ensure the rings are seating OK, when warm.
Let it idle for 30 seconds before switching off.
Obviously in an auto you don't get as much control over the rpm.
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I kept my petrol engine to 3000rpm or below for the first 1500 miles and after that, took it up to 4000rpm. Not sure it would be easy for drivers living in a city to follow the maximum 3 minute idling rule though, while stuck in traffic?
I have 2500 miles on the clock now and might consider an early first oil change, maybe at about 3000 miles.
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might consider an early first oil change, maybe at about 3000 miles.
That is early.
When I bought mine I asked when do they do the first oil changed. Was it at 1,000 miles?
Told that it doesn't need one until 1st service interval.
Still not convinced that it should be so long but ............................ that's what the 5 year warranty is for.
But wait until the warranty expires and the engine will pack up at 5 years and 1 hour. :lol:
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I suppose I'm working on the days of old, with reference to the oil change :rolleyes:.
Might just be a good idea to have the service done when specified and then trade it in for a new one, before the warranty expires :wink:.
Already considered this and the car is only 3 months old :D.
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I suppose I'm working on the days of old :rolleyes:.
Might just be a good idea to have the service done when specified and then trade it in for a new one, before the warranty expires :wink:. Already considered this and the car is only 3 months old :D.
Read the news section!
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I have 2500 miles on the clock now and might consider an early first oil change, maybe at about 3000 miles.
In Oz the service interval is 15,000Km or 12 months whichever comes first.. Quite a few of us over here got an interim done at 7500 (oil and filter only) and some are gettint thag done between every scheduled service. I got the first one at 7500 but now going every 15,000 as do over 25,000 per annum...
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Read the news section!
:eek: Not changing it yet.
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I got the first one at 7500 but now going every 15,000 as do over 25,000 per annum...
The unlimited mileage is a good deal for you then :wink:.
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I got the first one at 7500 but now going every 15,000 as do over 25,000 per annum...
The unlimited mileage is a good deal for you then :wink:.
Yes, whereas the wife's Nissan Tiida only averages about 9000kms per annum so at that rate she will have done less than 30,000km when the 3 year warranty runs out in March 2011.
If I kept my i30 for the full 5 years at the rate I am going I would have well over 130,000kms on the clock by then .. People like Bob (Our i30) would be over 250,000 kms by that time :eek:
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If I kept my i30 for the full 5 years at the rate I am going I would have well over 130,000kms on the clock by then .. People like Bob (Our i30) would be over 250,000 kms by that time :eek:
Wish I did more miles than I do, as I don't feel I'm getting my moneys worth :mad:....:D
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Because the Crdi model is such fun to drive and so easy on fuel I think nothing of zipping about but the fuel bill still adds up and I will pay a penalty when I decide to sell in probably about 12 months time...
The wife's Tiida is a very underrated car with a low resale value and the wife is very happy with it so we intend keeping that for 10 years or more.. by which time it should still be like new.. hopefully..
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I will pay a penalty when I decide to sell in probably about 12 months time
You will have had some moneys worth out of it by then :D