i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => TYRES | WHEELS | BRAKES => Topic started by: whitbomb07 on January 31, 2009, 04:44:29
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Ok first of all I'm going to have a little rant, and this isn't directed at anyone or the i30 community as a whole. (Maybe at anybody upgrading any type of vehicle though)
It's a thread you don't see every day when it comes to modifying cars............... upgrading the ability to stop!!!
I shake my head sometimes at some people who hot up their cars so much to make it go/look/feel faster, but have complete disregard for being able to slow down/stop. Whilst others I do know are smart enough to know how to drive their car accordingly, (people on here seem to fall into this category). The number of tools I have meet (not here, not i30 owners) who love talking about 0-100km/h and quarter mile times really gets me, so my standard question is 'So how fast can you stop?' Lots of blank faces................
**End rant**
If I was ever to upgrade the performance of my i30, the 1st thing I will look at is brake upgrades. Safety is paramount for me.
I was just wondering if there is anyone out there who has modified/or is thinking of modifying their brakes (preferably without voiding warranty and/or with the guidance of Hyundai)
I know it would be rather complicated as the ABS system would have to be modified also, so I'm not expecting much response, but if anyone has any decent information they can provide for myself and/or anyone else who is thinking about it it will be much appreciated.
Cheers
Daniel
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Hey man, i completely understand. I am planning on turbo my i30 and the second phase to my mods is bigger brakes. Im planning on trippleing the power output, so i am also planning on doubling or tripling my stopping power (hopefully). I plan on putting the front discs and calipers on the rear and getting larger slotted rotors and 6 pot calipers for the front.
I will be doing the brakes after the turbo intall (i know its backwards), but im not planning on driving stupid and exceeding the speed limit to actually warrant bigger brakes, but as soon as i have the cash flow they will be done. It is invevitably inevitable.
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It is invevitably inevitable.
And it will probably happen eventually... :P :lol:
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In UK when your car is MOT'd, vehicle check at 3rd birthday and every birthday thereafter, they check the stopping efficiency of the brakes. If it is outside a defined limit it FAILS.
However, this does not check brake fade, which when applying the brakes and due to length of time before you stop they heat up to a point which causes, usually the pads and or the discs, to subsequently fail.
To me, brake fade is more important than brake failure, i.e. failure of a mechanical part which hinders the application of the braking system.
PS most car will have a split braking systems so if one diagonal fails at least you don't loose all braking function.
It's speed that kills not the braking system. The braking system is just a means to an end!!!
My rant!!
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I think you have missed the point a little bit eye, a standard MOT brake test is done on a rolling road which controls the "speed" of the vehicle ie it is not being powered by its' engine.
Daniel is getting at the modding community (most of whom in the UK are Corsa and Saxo owners) who persist in upping their horsepower with no regard for how that affects the dynamics of the vehicle they have boosted, they all do the lowering suspension, wider tyres, crossmember upgrades etc, but they leave the stock brakes on and then wonder why a car that is capable of the drag to 60 in under 6 secs, takes twice as long to stop.
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Right on the money Bumpkin.
Plus it isn't speed that kills.............it's the instantaneous stop that does it when they hit the object that is more solid than the car............
It has to be one of the most overlooked things when it comes to hotting up cars, unfortunately some pay the price..............
Regards
Daniel
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takes twice as long to stop.
Ahhh Brake fade, because they don't upgrade the braking system, can be a contributory factor in not stopping quick enough.
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Plus it isn't speed that kills.............it's the instantaneous stop that does it when they hit the object that is more solid than the car............
So the brakes don't do the job they should do before the reach that instantaneous stop !
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So the brakes don't do the job they should do before the reach that instantaneous stop !
My point exactly............
They should either upgrade the brakes so as to ensure they do safely stop before having an instantaneous stop or not hot up the car to a point where they do have an instantaneous stop instead of a safe stop...........
If you get my drift..........
Regards
Daniel
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takes twice as long to stop.
Ahhh Brake fade, because they don't upgrade the braking system, can be a contributory factor in not stopping quick enough.
Yep pretty much brake fade, but this is enhanced by the fact that they are going faster potentially than the vehicles dynamics were built for, therefore as Daniel says an important factor that every modder should consider is the overall efficiency of their vehicle, if you up the power then you MUST improve the handling abilities in a linear way, or you are setting yourself up for an accident, in the case of brakes this is usually bigger discs, better ventilation, possibly racing brake fluid etc etc.
If you were to approach any of the big tuning companies such as Ripspeed, Prodrive etc they may even advise that you upgrade the suspension and brakes before touching the engine.
Right next bit...........
Plus it isn't speed that kills.............it's the instantaneous stop that does it when they hit the object that is more solid than the car............
So the brakes don't do the job they should do before the reach that instantaneous stop !
For the very reasons we are outlining, they were designed to bring a car with 125hp to a controlled stop, even a 10% increase in horsepower requires a more efficient braking system.
While I am here, Daniel has just posted
If you get my drift..........
Don't get started on that mate, that is usually caused by upping the horses and leaving the suspension stock!!!! :lol:
Not a rant, just my take on the topic :razz:
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Yeah, I actually like the look of bigger brakes, especially with a slight caliper colour change!
Just please, whatever you do, make sure you check when you get your brake put on. My mate has an Astra SRi 2.2L, and for whatever reason, the discs had been put onto the wrong sides, thus causing the slots on the front to be facing the wrong way, causing the heat from the brakes to run back INTO the rotors.
I thought it was hilarious. He realised this after 6 months of driving with them!
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With the more realistic performance upgrades that those here might contemplate there is an intermediate stage before replacing the braking system with a heavier duty set up. I am assuming that we do not have too many attempting to convert their i30 into a four wheeled rocket. For modest performance improvements simply upgrading the Brake Pads may be a worthwhile safety improvement. One UK manufacturer is EBC. They came on the scene in the 1980s and have had a meteoric rise in popularity in Europe since then.
The FAQ page of their web site is worth a read before contemplating any tuning 'improvements'. see http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/car/faq.asp (http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/car/faq.asp) All their products are explained here. http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/car/info.asp (http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/car/info.asp) Have a read and see if you would like to invest in some safe breaking capability in due course. Unfortunately they do not yet list performance pads for the i30. (Or the Kia ceed for that matter) If, as I suspect, the Ceed and i30 pads are also used on Kia's Carens II as well you will have to look elsewhere as EBC do not yet list anything suitable. For the moment you can not go over to the 'EBC Green'.
Other manufacturers also produce Performance pads. The long established Ferodo company has this to offer. http://www.ferodo.co.uk/ferodo_home/high.html (http://www.ferodo.co.uk/ferodo_home/high.html) You may recall Ferodo's racing DS3000 pads were used on the i30 at Targa West. Is it therefore safe to assume that they were not fabricated specially but are a standard component from one of the major manufacturers?
A quick check with Google found at least 12 manufacturers offering performance break pads in the UK. At the moment it looks as if Ferodo might be the easiest way to go.
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Great suggestion Bunyip (Your posts are always a good read) to further support this ..
Razy said upgrade pads helped a lot in his Targa West endeavours...
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Agreed - a great read (as usual)
(Just wish the posts weren't green on black... so hard to read :twisted:)
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Hey all
If you are having difficulty reading coloured posts, drag your mouse over the post to highlight, as if you are trying to cut and paste, it makes the post readable :D
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Hey all
If you are having difficulty reading coloured posts, drag your mouse over the post to highlight, as if you are trying to cut and paste, it makes the post readable :D
I do that. Makes it black on grey. I think I'll just remove green from the colour chart :lol:
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Change your highlight colour in control panel from black to blue, you will then get white text on blue background.
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Hi all,
News just In - (reply to my email requesting info on availability of i30 brake pads from EBC)
Hi
Yes we have part numbers and stock. If you send the details of your car; engine size and year of manufacture we can send the link for the part numbers.
Regards
The UK source that I contacted is...
EBC Brakes Direct Limited
Tel - +44(0)845 22 55 0 11
Fax - +44(0)845 22 55 0 12
http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com (http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com)
Office opening hours Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm
Anyone interested UK i30 owners can give them a go. The 'boys from Oz' can try http://rdabrakes.com.au/index.php/pads.html (http://rdabrakes.com.au/index.php/pads.html)
Drive (and stop) safely. :wink:
PS. Sorry to Shambles (and anyone else) about my use of green text. Thanks for mentioning it. I am afraid that I dislike the washed out grey background intensely for the way it reduces background/foreground contrast. A decent black would have been preferable for my taste. (Obviously not shared, so no point complaining.) I have been using green as an approximation of the old monochrome green on black monitors which I used for years... (long long ago when I worked for a software house!!) Amber on black was also used on decent monochrome monitors so I will try the 'orange' for a bit and see if that improves readability. It is pretty close to the amber colour that I recall.
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Cheers for the info TBY.
And thanks for using a different colour scheme.
I also use green on black for my work's VME software development but it's a brighter green and (as you hinted) a deeper black.
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Hi Bunyip.. I didn't really have a problem with the green on my Monitor but the Orange is easier to read...
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Amber on black [/color]
This is a good reading colour
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Hey Bunyip, i have been doin some research as well, and turns out that the setup i wanted was only going to cost around $600, but the intallation and modifiy the abs system to accomodate a larger capacity brake system was ridiculouly expensive.
I have found racing spec brake pads from korea for the stock calipers, and also drilled rotors which are factory aftermarket for hyundai for the front. $300AUD i will have drilled front rotors and race pads front and rear. That should be sufficient stopping power considering i am not racing, or doing anthing stupiod on the road
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Hi G14Classified101,
As one of my old bosses (Ex officer Brit Army (Gurkhas)) used to say...
Good Scheme.. Well done that man.
He was a bit strange too. :lol:
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I dunno what the standard Hyundai fluid is like, but the fluid's boiling point can help in regards to fade - as the fluid boils from the heat, the gas bubbles produced prevent the hydraulic pressure to create force on the cylinders in the calipers. Its like having air in the brake system when it gets real hot. I know older brake fluid is hygroscopic (sucks moisture out from the air) so over time the boiling point is lowered. Perhaps these newer synthetic fluids have improved things. I havent had any dealings with upgrading newer cars, but its always worthwhile checking similar models for better breaking system. An example of this is what I did with my Nissan Navara, the 2 piston calipers from the heavier Pathfinder were a bolt on addition, and the area of the cylinders was the same so it was compatible with the hydraulic system. I then scoured the disc rotor catalog to find a new rotoe with the correct OD (Pathfinder has bigger rotors too) but having the correct center bearing arrangement. I know the Tucson is based on the Elantra platform, so it might be worthwhile checking out Tucson calipers to see if they bolt up, who knows the rotors may be compatible too. Just a thought if someone is keen to use a bit of time to achieve a nice upgrade at a reasonable cost. OK I just had a look at the wife's Tucson the rotors dont look any bigger but they seem fatter. Also the i30's calipers are mounted on the rear side of the strut and the Tucson is on the front side - so might not be an option. Maybe a V6 Sonata ? Worth a look anyway.
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Daniel , i can understand your thought's.
the i30 CRDi is heavy for a small car , but comes with large enough disc rotors. you could use different compound brake pads. trouble with race type pads is they don't feel as good till they get hot, so normal driving on the roads would not feel as good as stock.
As for modifications to make a car faster needing brakes to stop faster. mate with our road rules no one is going to drive fast for long on the road. on the track if you experience loss of brakes then you look for an upgrade.
with modifications to get a car to do 1/4 mile quicker, does not require better brakes as you have a fairly long braking area at the track.
when i race my harley i get to about 160kph in around 6 or 6 1/2 seconds from a stand still its just stock frame street bike with tuned engine, stock brakes ( i actually took one front disc off, it had twin front disc's but not needed) i'm doing over 200KPH at the end but its easy to stop. if you are doing in excess of 320KPH it is hard to stop no matter what brakes you use.
my friend races a Nitro top fuel bike, he goes full quarter mile with front wheel off the ground ( normal for top bikes) he has wheelie bars and the bike stands up on them full quarter unless something is wrong, his front wheel will hardly be turning one minutes then the next it hits the track as he backs off at over 322KPH THEN THE WHEEL EXCELLERATES FROM NOTHING TO 322+ so the brake rotor is under extream stress, they have a lot of trouble with brake rotors warping. they also use a small chute to help stop.
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Hi guys
i just took it a step further... so i contacted them.
Hi
im looking for brake discs and pads for my hyundai i30 1.6 crdi (115hp) its from nov. 07
can u provide this ? please let me know. do u send products out of the country ?
EBC REPLY:
Hi
We manufacture the front and rear pads (for prices and to order, follow the link below) but NOT the discs.
http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com/search/default.asp?part=dp1562%2Cdp1769&v1=car&t1=
Regards
EBC Brakes Direct Limited
Tel - +44(0)845 22 55 0 11
Fax - +44(0)845 22 55 0 12
http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com
ME replying:
Hi again.
any plans of making the dish and rotors? or do u know who makes those? thanks
EBC REPLY :
Hi
It will not be available from EBC for around 6 months. We have no record of anyone else manufacturing these discs.
Regards
EBC Brakes Direct Limited
Tel - +44(0)845 22 55 0 11
Fax - +44(0)845 22 55 0 12
http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com
So for those who wants better brakes there is light in the of the tunnel :)
my brakes r so weird now....
5-10mins of not drivin is enuff for corrorsion to set in on the brake discs... it cant be right?
anyway...drive safe all :lol:
Hi all,
News just In - (reply to my email requesting info on availability of i30 brake pads from EBC)
Hi
Yes we have part numbers and stock. If you send the details of your car; engine size and year of manufacture we can send the link for the part numbers.
Regards
The UK source that I contacted is...
EBC Brakes Direct Limited
Tel - +44(0)845 22 55 0 11
Fax - +44(0)845 22 55 0 12
http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com (http://www.ebcbrakesdirect.com)
Office opening hours Monday to Friday, 9am to 5pm
Anyone interested UK i30 owners can give them a go. The 'boys from Oz' can try http://rdabrakes.com.au/index.php/pads.html (http://rdabrakes.com.au/index.php/pads.html)
Drive (and stop) safely. :wink:
PS. Sorry to Shambles (and anyone else) about my use of green text. Thanks for mentioning it. I am afraid that I dislike the washed out grey background intensely for the way it reduces background/foreground contrast. A decent black would have been preferable for my taste. (Obviously not shared, so no point complaining.) I have been using green as an approximation of the old monochrome green on black monitors which I used for years... (long long ago when I worked for a software house!!) Amber on black was also used on decent monochrome monitors so I will try the 'orange' for a bit and see if that improves readability. It is pretty close to the amber colour that I recall.
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hey guys
further update for the topic....
i finally tracked down some ppl that can provide me with better brakes...
they told me they can deliver : pads disc and rotors.... for around 4000$
this price is from denmark.. might be cheaper outside denmark.. tax in denmark er expensive.
i got a link to a site where also have those brakes.
http://www.primaracing.com/prod_wppro.aspx (http://www.primaracing.com/prod_wppro.aspx)
look for the gallery in bottom.
they call the brake system : wp pro.
from the danish deal i understood it was possible to chose the color of the rotors and the disc
which is pretty cool.. :P colors is : blue , red , alu , white , and some yellow of some sort.. and finally u can get em chrome. :P
hope u guys will enjoy this new info.... took me awhile to find it :D
cheers all
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i finally tracked down some ppl that can provide me with better brakes...
they told me they can deliver : pads disc and rotors.... for around 4000$
:eek: That's a lot of $$$ - Nice find but.... :P
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http://www.d2racing.com/
They have a big brake kit and coilovers for I30, but they don't have the I30 on the web site. we have a dealer here in Croatia and the price is very low, BBK is around 1500$ and coilovers are around 1200$
I tried a D2 coilovers and they are very good for track driving but for every day they are to hard. Now I'm waiting for BBK and coilovers for Accent that I'm modifaing for my frend (we put 1.8 engine from lantra in Accent), soo we will see how the BBK will do on track
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Gday mate, I reckon the solution for you is Disc Brakes Australia (DBA). http://www.dba.com.au/2006/default.asp
They have aftermarket discs from basic slotted to high performance cross drilled and slotted made specifically for the i30. They are no bigger but together with a performance pad should provide a significant braking upgrade.
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i threw $2.500 worth of brkes on my v8 fairlane,and then it wanted to stop better :lol:
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the sit elantraman mentioned is where i bought most of my brake upgrade,rotors,booster,pads,master cylinder.
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In UK when your car is MOT'd, vehicle check at 3rd birthday and every birthday thereafter, they check the stopping efficiency of the brakes. If it is outside a defined limit it FAILS.
However, this does not check brake fade, which when applying the brakes and due to length of time before you stop they heat up to a point which causes, usually the pads and or the discs, to subsequently fail.
To me, brake fade is more important than brake failure, i.e. failure of a mechanical part which hinders the application of the braking system.
PS most car will have a split braking systems so if one diagonal fails at least you don't loose all braking function.
It's speed that kills not the braking system. The braking system is just a means to an end!!!
My rant!!
They do that in NSW too Recall Boy, but don't think any other state of australia require brake or road worthy checks after three years, or every year if its a truck?
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It's speed that kills not the braking system. The braking system is just a means to an end!!!
They do that in NSW too Recall Boy, but don't think any other state of australia require brake or road worthy checks after three years, or every year if its a truck?
Speed doesn't kill..........it's the instantaneous stop...............
Lakes I heard something recently about them extending it out to 5 years before an inspection is required.
Regards
Daniel
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its also known as deceleration syndrome. :lol: if you double your horse power you need to upgrade your brakes. :lol:
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YAY! i just picked up my new sports brake dish´s and pads... :P
i cant wait to see the difference.. if any :mrgreen:
i think ill kit em on tomorrow if i get the tools im missing for it.
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i think ill kit em on tomorrow if i get the tools im missing for it.
Top banana :)
Take pics if you remember - would be good to see it done :D
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Hi Zangster..
So they cost you about A$4000 ?
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Hi Zangster..
So they cost you about A$4000 ?
ehm no mate.... i thougth it was to expensive so i did not go for full replacement.. i got some same sized disc´s and pads .. just better materials... i added some pictures so u guys can see how its done if anyone thinking about doin it them selfs... enjoy! :mrgreen:
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009095.jpg)
this just what i used to complete the job.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009096.jpg)
just removed the wheel using the air power tool. .. yes... im lazy :mrgreen:
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009097.jpg)
everything removed... 4 bolts and 2 screws r all u need to remove.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009098.jpg)
just to compare the old and new disc.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009099.jpg)
okay.. here we go.... when u change the disc´s u have clean the wheel hub very carefully.. all rush have to come off... use sandpaper.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009100.jpg)
here i cleaned the brake pad bracket with a brush... do i very carefully and clean the rest with brake cleaner... :) as seen at the next picture.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009101.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009102.jpg)
this is also very important... u have to clean the new disc .. all the rust proctecting oil have to come off... use the break cleaner again for this task.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009103.jpg)
okay.. this not particular important.. but i like to do it... for one good reason... use never seeze at the wheel hub either on the disc side or just the hub... be careful not to get it all over the place. oh and the reason why... its easier to remove again when need to change the discs again.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009104.jpg)
okaaay... these screws hold the disc inplace intill the wheel comes back on... give these never seeze aswell.. for easy assamble and disassamble.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009105.jpg)
okay... this is the ticky part some will say... but heres the deal... use never seeze on the back side of the pads and where the pads r sitting in the brake pad bracket to make it move smoothly.
dont get it all over the place... its quickly gets at mess... if some of it come in contact with the pads them selfs... clean em with brake cleaner... same story with the disc´s :P :P
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009106.jpg)
here i have fitted the pads... use alittle force when u put em into the bracket..
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009107.jpg)
okay... now its time for push back the caliber piston to make room for the new pads... use the thingy i use at the picture. or what ever u like... :mrgreen:
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009108.jpg)
okay .. this is just me . its not that important either.. but i like my brakes clean... use a brush and brake cleaner to remove all hard brakedust sittin at the caliber.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009109.jpg)
okay.. almost done now... just put in the 2 bolts.. im point my finger at one at the picture. and tighten it up....
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c235/Hu_li/i30%20brakes/16062009110.jpg)
FINISHED!
now u just have pump the brake pedal till it gets "normal"hard again.... wheels on and time test drive it... dont make any hard brakings... ill reckon... 300-500km... :D after that the brakes should be all good to take some punishment... muhahahha :lol: :razz: :evil:
i hope made my self clear here.. :D anyway.. feel free to ask..
cheers all
regards... dan aka zhangster
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Brilliant mate, just brilliant :D
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/ShamblesX/16-06-200921-22-37.jpg)
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Brilliant mate, just brilliant :D
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y297/ShamblesX/16-06-200921-22-37.jpg)
yeah i hope its useful for ppl who wanna safe some few bucks changing the brakes them selfs.. :mrgreen:
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Thanks for that Dan.. Looks simple enough (you'll have to let us know how they perform when they are bedded in) and is there good pedal feel?
Would you mind advising what brand of disc and pad you used (and an approximate cost)
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Thanks for that Dan.. Looks simple enough (you'll have to let us know how they perform when they are bedded in) and is there good pedal feel?
Would you mind advising what brand of disc and pad you used (and an approximate cost)
okay.. ill do that... regard the brand... pads r from a corperation called : ferodo
i took those cuz i have only heard good things about those pads...
the disc r : http://iam.delphi.com/en-gb/products/braking/brakediscs.htm
none of the parts from china or some cheap shit.
prices...
pads costed 98.33 $
disc´s costed : 158.59 $
cheers Dan
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Thanx M8.. Ferodo are well known over here too..
Sounds like a good value upgrade..
Thanx again :D
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Good pricing info Dan, and excellent English too I have to say. Much better than my Danish ;)
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Thanx M8.. Ferodo are well known over here too..
Sounds like a good value upgrade..
Thanx again :D
no problem mate.... well only time will tell if it was a good investment.. and im also lookin forward to hear what my local hyundai dealership is gonna say when i getting my next service. :D
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Good pricing info Dan, and excellent English too I have to say. Much better than my Danish ;)
hahahaha :) aye i would love to hear u talk some danish :lol:
færdig arbejde! = jobs done :mrgreen:
Dan
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no problem mate.... well only time will tell if it was a good investment.. and im also lookin forward to hear what my local hyundai dealership is gonna say when i getting my next service. :D
From what one member said his dealer wouldn't even notice (don't say anything and see if they notice) :lol:
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no problem mate.... well only time will tell if it was a good investment.. and im also lookin forward to hear what my local hyundai dealership is gonna say when i getting my next service. :D
From what one member said his dealer wouldn't even notice (don't say anything and see if they notice) :lol:
yeah i probably should... could be fun to see their reaction if they spot it.. :mrgreen: tho i think it will be hard to miss...its all shiney.. my next services is in less than 4000km... which is like top 2 months from now. its my 60000km service.
dan
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færdig arbejde! = jobs done :mrgreen:
I knew that :P
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færdig arbejde! = jobs done :mrgreen:
I knew that :P
:lol: the only word i reckon u know that is danish is : carlsberg .... mmmh beer! :mrgreen:
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:lol: the only word i reckon u know that is danish is : carlsberg .... mmmh beer! :mrgreen:
Fair point, although I also know the words Lars Ulrich and Brigitte Nielsen :P
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Looks same as my Ford uses, normaly cheap to replace and don't need to machine just remove disc's get new ones. they also float so helps too.
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Thanks for that Dan.. Looks simple enough (you'll have to let us know how they perform when they are bedded in) and is there good pedal feel?
Would you mind advising what brand of disc and pad you used (and an approximate cost)
Oi good fellows... time for a update... :)
passed 800km after i changed the front brakes..... been doin highway and low speed roads :P and it brakes really good...
it respond as it should and it got some bite to it... first a gently push at the brake and it brakes smoothly down to an halt... pushing it abit more and u end up kissing ya windscreen... :) my point is: great upgrade... atleast so far.. gonna push it abit harder later... but for now im happy with the result. :mrgreen:
my advice to to guys who needs a good brake upgrade : BUY BUY BUY :lol:
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Thanks for the update
Gangster Zhangster :) sounds like you did a great job and are happy :D
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Thanks for the update Gangster Zhangster :) sounds like you did a great job and are happy :D
YUP and its my ganster car :)
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Hi Guys,
I just noticed the thread today, but since I did upgrade the brakes on our i30 for Targa West I though I'd share my thoughts. The rotors on the i30 are huge for the size of the car (as large as you can fit in the 15" rims anyway), so I decided to keep them. The calipers are single piston, but they accommodate pads that are quite large compared to other compact cars, so we kept them too. I ended up changing the pads with Ferodo DS3000 - a great racing compound, but quite noisy for road use.
The stopping power is more than enough, even for the R-type tyres we used during the race. One thing that I will do next year is replace the original fluid with a higher temperature rating one - day two was very slippery this year and I had to left foot brake a lot to keep the car on the right line, so the fluid boiled on the longest stage - not a big problem, as the brakes were still good, but the pedal feel became quite spongy. Other than that I did not have any troubles at all, and I doubt that during normal road use and on street tyres you could get the brakes to fade with an upgraded set of pads. I would choose the DS2500 for road use, or a similar quick-road compound.
As for the rear brakes - leave them as they are. The car is nose-heavy and when you brake hard there is nearly no load on the rear wheels.
Raz