i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => GENERAL => Topic started by: Jesse91 on July 08, 2013, 05:01:04
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About a week ago I was rotating the tyres on my car and one of the front wheel studs snapped off :mad: I blame the tyre shop the previous owner used for rattle gunning them on...
Anywho so I bought a new wheel stud and nut and today went to replace it after removing the wheel, caliper and rotor I find that the backing plate gives no room for the studs to come out!!
So annoying why would they do that I have no idea looks like I'll have to take it somewhere probably cost me an arm and a leg now I'm thinking if I should just get the front wheel bearings done at the same time because I believe the whole hub assembly as to come off
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jesse91
you where only one step away from changing it yourself,you only needed to take the hub off as you suggested,if you had the nowse to get the wheel,caliper and rotor off,you have the nowse to do the rest.
But yes annoying,I always use dry lube when doing my wheel rotations,doesn't stop wheel studs breaking but does greatly reduce the occurence.
I also wouldn't be quick to blame the rattle gun,some of the new wheel braces with the extendable handle cn get far more pressure on a wheel stud,many PPL buy these now as they are compact when folded away(will fit in your door pocket if that is where you wanted to put it) and will undo the tightest of wheel nuts without a lot of effort,lot easier than the factory supplied one or the crossbrace.
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Thanks Rick, I was looking but I could not see any bolts attaching to the hub and for the life of me could not work out how to actually remove it...
I just wish I had a service manual it would make it easier when you run into things like this
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Jesse91 the reason for not seeing any bolts.you have to take the centre dust cover off of the hub,can be lightly tapped off with a smaller hammer,tapping alternate sides as you go,under this you will find a castlated nut and split pin,this is how to remove the hub.
But unless you know how to check/or replace the bearings and their seal,repack a bearing and know how much tension to apply on replacing it,best to take it to a dealer or your local mech and sadly yes,will cost you,doubt a wheel stud would be warranty
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Jesse91 the reason for not seeing any bolts.you have to take the centre dust cover off of the hub,can be lightly tapped off with a smaller hammer,tapping alternate sides as you go,under this you will find a castlated nut and split pin,this is how to remove the hub.
But unless you know how to check/or replace the bearings and their seal,repack a bearing and know how much tension to apply on replacing it,best to take it to a dealer or your local mech and sadly yes,will cost you,doubt a wheel stud would be warranty
Hi Rick, are you sure the front bearings are like that. What you're describing sounds to me like a rear (ie, a non driven hub).
In my experience front wheel bearings on a front wheel drive car are a PITA to work on. You often need a puller to get the hub off.
However, I agree with you about the air guns. They are generally set at an relatively light pressure and most places these days use a tension wrench to "nip"the nuts up at the end.
And I have proven many times to the doubters that, no matter how much they use the rattle gun to do up a wheel nut, I can still undo them with a 4 way wheel brace. In fact I can even do them up tight enough with 4 way brace so the air gun won't undo them.
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I should have taken a photo, but I don't recall any dust covers... the cv shaft was just sticking trough the hub. I'm not going to play around with bearings that's past my knowledge and tools I was just hoping the hub would come off without removing any bearings so I could get to that dam stud! :wacko:
I always thought the air gun causing the bolts to snap was more of an issue of cross threading when they tighten them up because they go so fast, not necessary over torquing
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In fact I can even do them up tight enough with 4 way brace so the air gun won't undo them.
:eek: I need to start working out... I struggle with some of those caps on beer bottles haha
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I should have taken a photo, but I don't recall any dust covers... the cv shaft was just sticking trough the hub. I'm not going to play around with bearings that's past my knowledge and tools I was just hoping the hub would come off without removing any bearings so I could get to that dam stud! :wacko:
I always thought the air gun causing the bolts to snap was more of an issue of cross threading when they tighten them up because they go so fast, not necessary over torquing
Cross threading can cause the problem. That's true. But you have to start the thread by hand and you can generally feel if th ething is tightening up.
Mind you, I have to agree you can get a dud operator.
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Jesse91 the reason for not seeing any bolts.you have to take the centre dust cover off of the hub,can be lightly tapped off with a smaller hammer,tapping alternate sides as you go,under this you will find a castlated nut and split pin,this is how to remove the hub.
But unless you know how to check/or replace the bearings and their seal,repack a bearing and know how much tension to apply on replacing it,best to take it to a dealer or your local mech and sadly yes,will cost you,doubt a wheel stud would be warranty
Hi Rick, are you sure the front bearings are like that. What you're describing sounds to me like a rear (ie, a non driven hub).
In my experience front wheel bearings on a front wheel drive car are a PITA to work on. You often need a puller to get the hub off.
However, I agree with you about the air guns. They are generally set at an relatively light pressure and most places these days use a tension wrench to "nip"the nuts up at the end.
And I have proven many times to the doubters that, no matter how much they use the rattle gun to do up a wheel nut, I can still undo them with a 4 way wheel brace. In fact I can even do them up tight enough with 4 way brace so the air gun won't undo them.
Wonder what a new (or second hand) wheel hub would be worth. If my experience with the Falcon is anything to go by, they won't be too interested in mucking around and (especially if they need to press the bearings out) will replace it with a new one anyway. So you might be better off pricing a new hub and doing it yourself.
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Cheaper not to rotate tyres, I don't. :(
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Wonder what a new (or second hand) wheel hub would be worth. If my experience with the Falcon is anything to go by, they won't be too interested in mucking around and (especially if they need to press the bearings out) will replace it with a new one anyway. So you might be better off pricing a new hub and doing it yourself.
That is a good point I will see how much one is worth but I will probably want to do the other side as well then. So much effort if only they left just one little gap for the stud to come out hhh..
Phil that is what I though haha but it would have happened eventually anyway.
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Bad luck. I broke one too on a rear wheel drive so it wasn't too expensive to get fixed, but Front wheel drive, not so good.
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I know why tyres are rotated but I don't buy into the practice, if done correctly it means I Ba e to buy 4 new tyres at about the same time... :whistler: not rotating means I only have to buy 2 at a time mostly....
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Oh Oh....here goes the tyre rotation debate....
For the record, I get the tyres rotated every 15k with the service.
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I rotate my tyres to even out the wear. However, I attempt to rotate only once or twice in their lifetime. This way I see what is going on and can consider alignments etc if wear is uneven. Rotating too often hides any uneven wear. I do accept that even so, longer life might be obtained by rotating more often but I like to have control.
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I had the same problem after a roadassistance guy fastened the nuts of my spare wheel too much. (the wrench equipped in my i30 didn't fit the aftermarket wheels holes...). When I went to the tire shop, the bolt snapped off... (front left wheel)
Later on in my Hyundai garage the replaced the nut...
I had 2 options:
1: they had to remove brakes, backing plate etc, to be able to replace the bolt... it would cost me 700 euro (900 ASD, 986 AUD, 602 GBP)only on manhours...
2: they were going to saw a piece out of the backing plate so they could remove the broken bolt and remove it.
I chose option 2 which costed me 120 euro (154 USD, 169 AUD, 103 GBP)
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Not a bad idea, actually. :goodjob2:
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Wonder what a new (or second hand) wheel hub would be worth. If my experience with the Falcon is anything to go by, they won't be too interested in mucking around and (especially if they need to press the bearings out) will replace it with a new one anyway. So you might be better off pricing a new hub and doing it yourself.
That is a good point I will see how much one is worth but I will probably want to do the other side as well then. So much effort if only they left just one little gap for the stud to come out hhh..
I wouldn't worry about doing both. They don't get mentioned too often on here, and there aren't any obvious ones on ebay (from Australia) so I would think they last ok.
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Got a quote from 2 local mechanics today just on labour to replace the stud one was $200 the other was $160. First one said he would inspect the bearing and see if it needed replacing, the other just said that he would have to replace the bearing.
Called 2 Hyundai dealers both where unsure of the time it would take and both pretty much said "if it is easy it would be an hours work" and "if it is not easy then it would be more" this after I told them the the hub is pressed in and would have to be removed they still couldn't give me a rough working time. :rolleyes: They said that the bearing should be replaced to.
So I am probably going to go with the 2nd local mechanic and get the bearing replaced at the same time. Hyundai quoted me $124 for a wheel bearing :eek: but I can get one from work for about $38. I could probably take the knuckle and hub assembly of myself and take it down to the local mechanic (he is about 400m down the road) and just get him to press it out for me, but I don't think I'll bother I'm sure I wouldn't save that much to make it worth it anyway.
So all up I'm looking at about $215 for 1 little wheel stud :( and the next time any shops put on my tyres I'll be checking the nuts as soon as I get home and if they are stuffed I'll be taking it back!
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:Ouch: :disapp:
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the next time any shops put on my tyres I'll be checking the nuts as soon as I get home and if they are stuffed I'll be taking it back!
Too late then the damage will have been done.
Ask what torque setting was used when you pick up the car. And wheel lugs should be torque checked within 50 miles or 30 minutes after the wheel is replaced