i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => ELECTRICAL | ELECTRONIC | AUDIO => Topic started by: Michael T on December 30, 2013, 19:34:52
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(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a205/MustangManV8/IMG_20131230_141205_zpsce326ef5.jpg)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a205/MustangManV8/IMG_20131230_141350_zps0bb2658e.jpg)
Found out that my glove box light is inop... Thought the bulb was burned out but nope the LED didn't light either. Will have to let the dealer know next oil change.
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Looking good, Michael. :goodjob2:
Just in case you don't know; the glovebox light only works when headlights are on. :D
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Just in case you don't know; the glovebox light only works when headlights are on. :D
Just checked mine.
Unlocked car, sat in, key not in ignition nor lights on.
Opened glovebox and Light is on
Now where is switch as need to check it actually goes off when closed.
Not small enought to get in box and test!
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Just in case you don't know; the glovebox light only works when headlights are on. :D
Just checked mine.
Unlocked car, sat in, key not in ignition nor lights on.
Opened glovebox and Light is on
Now where is switch as need to check it actually goes off when closed.
Not small enought to get in box and test!
Must admit I wrote that because someone else mentioned that in another tread yesterday, I think it was.
Just checked mine :P
In the car without the key in ign, no light in glovebox.
Turn lights on, just pos light, then light in glovebox.
Start the car, then light in glovebox, but we have DRL here in DK, so on the FD the headlights is the DRL's
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Looking good, Michael. :goodjob2:
Just in case you don't know; the glovebox light only works when headlights are on. :D
Thanks for the heads up! It does work with the headlights on.
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Looking good, Michael. :goodjob2:
Just in case you don't know; the glovebox light only works when headlights are on. :D
Thanks for the heads up! It does work with the headlights on.
:goodjob2:
Can't promise such an easy fix next time... :snigger:
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Hi,
I'm planning to replace the interior lights with LED Lights. I cant seem to find the part numbers for the LED lights, can you please help me finding what LED lights I should be purchasing?
Thanks
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Check your manual, it will list the correct bulb types needed.
You can also buy LED kits from eBay for most i30 MY's
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Sorry for resurrecting the dead but i thought it would be better than starting a new topic entirely
Can anyone tell me the bulb sizes in the map lights, dome centre light and the boot light?
And are the bulbs that i have so far correct?
Parkers 501 (W5W)
Indicators 581 (PY21W)
Number plate 501 (W5W)
Edit: It's a 2011 SX if that matters
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As far as I know the bulb sizes for the dome, map and boot lights are Festoon type of 31mm length.
I ordered a few today and should be getting them next week at the latest. It is 4 SMD LED's at 76 lumens.
They look like these:
(http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_158384_1.jpg)
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Sorry for resurrecting the dead but i thought it would be better than starting a new topic entirely
Can anyone tell me the bulb sizes in the map lights, dome centre light and the boot light?
And are the bulbs that i have so far correct?
Parkers 501 (W5W)
Indicators 581 (PY21W)
Number plate 501 (W5W)
Edit: It's a 2011 SX if that matters
I wouldn't recommend using LED's in the indicators as they don't reflect the light correctly within the housing making it duller.
The best option I have found for indicators are the Osram Diadem bulbs ( Chrome ) they get rid of the fried egg effect and the orange colour is much more intense though the brightness is the same http://www.osram.com.au/osram_au/diadem-chrome (http://www.osram.com.au/osram_au/news-and-knowledge/automotive-special/automotive-design-lamps---eye-catchers-with-that-stylish-look/automotive-lighting---stylish-and-trendy/headlights---high-performance-design-highlights/diadem-chrome---design-for-indicator-light-and-tail-lamp/index.jsp)
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Sorry for resurrecting the dead but i thought it would be better than starting a new topic entirely
Can anyone tell me the bulb sizes in the map lights, dome centre light and the boot light?
And are the bulbs that i have so far correct?
Parkers 501 (W5W)
Indicators 581 (PY21W)
Number plate 501 (W5W)
Edit: It's a 2011 SX if that matters
I wouldn't recommend using LED's in the indicators as they don't reflect the light correctly within the housing making it duller.
The best option I have found for indicators are the Osram Diadem bulbs ( Chrome ) they get rid of the fried egg effect and the orange colour is much more intense though the brightness is the same http://www.osram.com.au/osram_au/news-and-knowledge/automotive-special/automotive-design-lamps---eye-catchers-with-that-stylish-look/automotive-lighting---stylish-and-trendy/headlights---high-performance-design-highlights/diadem-chrome---design-for-indicator-light-and-tail-lamp/index.jsp (http://www.osram.com.au/osram_au/news-and-knowledge/automotive-special/automotive-design-lamps---eye-catchers-with-that-stylish-look/automotive-lighting---stylish-and-trendy/headlights---high-performance-design-highlights/diadem-chrome---design-for-indicator-light-and-tail-lamp/index.jsp)
that's the plan for the indicators
i hate that orange bulbs with a passion
thanks everyone
bulbs are going to be ordered tomorrow
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There not cheap and the 6 bulbs cost me $70, Auto One tried to charge me $65 a pair for the PY's :fum:
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The best option I have found for indicators are the Osram Diadem bulbs ( Chrome ) they get rid of the fried egg effect and the orange colour is much more intense though the brightness is the same http://www.osram.com.au/osram_au/diadem-chrome (http://www.osram.com.au/osram_au/news-and-knowledge/automotive-special/automotive-design-lamps---eye-catchers-with-that-stylish-look/automotive-lighting---stylish-and-trendy/headlights---high-performance-design-highlights/diadem-chrome---design-for-indicator-light-and-tail-lamp/index.jsp)
I might give a pair of those a whirl. Not too pricey from a UK store
:link: OSRAM DIADEM CHROME PY21W (581) Styling Indicator Bulbs | PowerBulbs (http://www.powerbulbs.com/product/diadem-chrome-py21w-twin)
£14.50 delivered
Or £8.48 delivered from eBay :link: OSRAM DIADEM CHROME PY21W INDICATOR SIGNAL BULBS 581 TWIN PACK 12V 21W BAU15S | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OSRAM-DIADEM-CHROME-PY21W-INDICATOR-SIGNAL-BULBS-581-TWIN-PACK-12V-21W-BAU15S-/111378091573?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19eea6ce35)
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That looks similar price to what I paid, you don't require the 2 side fender T10's though :undecided: which is where my extra cost lies.
You'll be happy with them as they stand out much more easily with the intense colouring.
Ebay ones are very cheap :goodjob2:
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I'm after brighter blinkers but I'm not so sure these will be any brighter than the ones I have. Still, losing the fried egg effect could be worth it anyway :)
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They are sort of brighter in a way because of the intensity of the colour, I first fitted in one headlight to see the difference from the other side and they are much stronger and more noticeable.
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Well, in true Shambles style, I ordered a couple. Try at the front and see if they glow like they should :)
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so i cracked open all the bulbs and found
dome light = 31mm festoon
boot light = 31mm festoon
and the weird part was the map lights had W5W style folded over metal pins but were bigger and rounder. when I threw in some old LED W5W bulbs it didn't work. on the bulb it had written "ht o 12v10w x"
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when I threw in some old LED W5W bulbs it didn't work. on the bulb it had written "ht o 12v10w x"
Are the led fittings polarised, try reversing them. :idea:
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when I threw in some old LED W5W bulbs it didn't work. on the bulb it had written "ht o 12v10w x"
Are the led fittings polarised, try reversing them. :idea:
yep
polarised
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I just fitted my 31mm dome and boot LED's. They are 4 SMD LED's with 76 lumens of brightness, but it is still morning here so I can't comment on brightness.
One good thing though is that the interior LED dims when the car door is closed and the key is in the ignition and turned to ON :goodjob2:
Now I just need to find out if I can pull the glove box one out and replace it. Maybe the vanity mirror lights too. Then the map lights. It just doesn't stop :mrgreen:
EDIT: The glove box light seems like a festoon light, but thicker and longer (I'm guessing about 39mm), and the map lights are as nugget said.
The vanity lights I still need to get to to check what type and size they are
EDIT EDIT: Seems like my dome light doesn't go out completely when the doors are shut, almost as if there is a little bit of voltage leakage across the terminals. If I switch it to OFF it does go out, though. Only when it is set to door does it behave like this. Odd
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EDIT EDIT: Seems like my dome light doesn't go out completely when the doors are shut, almost as if there is a little bit of voltage leakage across the terminals. If I switch it to OFF it does go out, though. Only when it is set to door does it behave like this. Odd
I noticed this too in my old FD. I remember measuring the voltage, and it was around 3V (IIRC).
This is not a problem in my Cerato and, I guess, in the GDs.
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EDIT EDIT: Seems like my dome light doesn't go out completely when the doors are shut, almost as if there is a little bit of voltage leakage across the terminals. If I switch it to OFF it does go out, though. Only when it is set to door does it behave like this. Odd
I noticed this too in my old FD. I remember measuring the voltage, and it was around 3V (IIRC).
This is not a problem in my Cerato and, I guess, in the GDs.
No the issue is apparent in the GD's also, after changing mine over last month and before I replaced the light covers I made sure to check and test and the map lights still had just enough current running through them to turn the diodes white but not emit any light.
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My guess is that when a capacitor discharges through a resistor when the door shuts, there is a small amount of leakage current continually passed through the cap / resistor combination to the led's. In a standard bulb, way too small to make a filament glow, but led's are another story.
Best to turn the switches to of if you not using the car for a long time, eh Lester. :razz:
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My guess is that when a capacitor discharges through a resistor when the door shuts, there is a small amount of leakage current continually passed through the cap / resistor combination to the led's. In a standard bulb, way too small to make a filament glow, but led's are another story.
Best to turn the switches to of if you not using the car for a long time, eh Lester. :razz:
At least it's just the dome light that does it (for now...). I checked the boot by keeping it closed and flipping one of the rear seats forward and it stays off.
I wonder if it might not have something to do with the fact that the dome light circuit dims after you close the doors and start the car? I see you can purchase CANBUS-safe LED's online but honestly this seems like too much of a waste just for a little bit of a glow. I mean, that current was there even before the LED's were put in and it didn't drain the battery or anything. I have heard of people putting resistors inline to bleed off the excess voltage on the circuit, though.
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The capacitor / resistor I mentioned IS part of the dimming function. The rear light is not a dimmed light, so shuts off fully.
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The capacitor / resistor I mentioned IS part of the dimming function. The rear light is not a dimmed light, so shuts off fully.
This makes sense. I would love to add a little resistor to dump the excess current but I strongly dislike soldering, so I will live with it for now :)
I went to a store today that I am going to buy an HID kit from for my dipped beam. They gave me discount and I am going to end up paying R550 (AU$55) for the two ballasts and the two 8000K bulbs. A far cry from the R1300 (AU$130) that I was quoted for a set last year! Thankfully they are legal here as I have heard elsewhere in the world they are deemed illegal and people using them on public roads can be fined.
They also had a very ingenious little device. It is basically a festoon bulb connector but with a spring in the middle so it fits all the festoon sizes. It then has wires coming off it that can be plugged into bigger LED squares, like the one below.
I might have to go shopping on payday :whistler:
(http://webyauto.com/images/P/SMD-PAN-12-1-W-CB.jpg)
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:goodjob2: :goodjob:
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They also had a very ingenious little device. It is basically a festoon bulb connector but with a spring in the middle so it fits all the festoon sizes. It then has wires coming off it that can be plugged into bigger LED squares, like the one below.
(http://webyauto.com/images/P/SMD-PAN-12-1-W-CB.jpg)
The LEDs I have fitted to Firty are all of this type, which is what I meant by 'kit'. Pretty cool, making them quite universal. Probably repeating myself but the dome light is a 6x6 panel and the boot light is a similar 4x4, or perhaps 4x3 as shown in your post.
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I went to a store today that I am going to buy an HID kit from for my dipped beam. They gave me discount and I am going to end up paying R550 (AU$55) for the two ballasts and the two 8000K bulbs. A far cry from the R1300 (AU$130) that I was quoted for a set last year! Thankfully they are legal here as I have heard elsewhere in the world they are deemed illegal and people using them on public roads can be fined.
Yep they are illegal here in Australia, installing the HID's in a light housing that wasn't factory designed to suit - and bulbs of that spectrum are illegal as well, the main issue you'll find with 8000k bulbs is they are very blue and are basically useless in real world situations because of the lack of light they actually put to the road " quite dangerous to be honest "
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So I ended up going for the 6000K HID kit, installed it and all it needed was me drilling out the dust covers to fit the wires through. They perform well enough, and provide a very nice view of the road. Not too blue, either. While I was at it I found a 6 SMD LED for my glove box (ultra bright) and fitted two of these park lights to match the blue light from the HID's:
(http://www.4x4direct.co.za/shop/images/s25-bright-1.jpg)
I also discovered a solution to my dome light faintly glowing even after all the doors are closed. I found that if I turn the map/courtesy lights to 'door' mode, it sucks up the last of the excess current in the dome light somehow. I am going to order LED's for these lights on Friday so by them I should have all my interior lights sorted :happydance:
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:goodjob2: :goodjob:
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... if I turn the map/courtesy lights to 'door' mode, it sucks up the last of the excess current in the dome light somehow ...
Still very odd but glad you found a way around it. :goodjob:
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I wonder if the alarm system (via the door switches) is contributing to the residual current draw through the light system..?
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I will see whether it changes when I install the LED's in the map lights as well. I am hoping it won't, as I like it that it goes out altogether.
Interesting theory about the alarm system, Shambles! It's not impossible...at this stage I will consider anything :p
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I would expect all alarm switches to be simple earthing points to the car body and never actually carrying any current. It would be the safer way to do it.
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The most likely cause of residual current is poor earthing at some other point in the broader lighting circuit. :cool:
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The most likely cause of residual current is poor earthing at some other point in the broader lighting circuit. :cool:
I have Googled the issue plenty and it seems as if many cars do this, not just limited to the i30 in particular. I'd love to know what causes it though!
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It most likely is quite common, but under normal conditions, there is nowhere near enough current to make a filament glow.
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Sorry to drag this old thread out of the vault :rolleyes:
I changed over my car interiors lighting to LED's and the licence plate bulbs as well, looks great a very cheap mod :winker:
I too notice the slight glow on the map, dome and boot LED when the circuit is set to auto (door), which I understand can be remove my using a load resistor. However I doubt that I will go to that effort as I notice the glow only last until the alarm activates (30s), I am assuming that when this occurs the alarm must draw up the last of the residue current which was causing the LED's to glow.
So yeah I agree with Shambles when he said I wonder if the alarm system (via the door switches) is contributing to the residual current draw through the light system..?