i30 Owners Club
MODIFYING OR DETAILING YOUR I30 => ELECTRICAL | ELECTRONIC | AUDIO => Topic started by: Hati on September 30, 2014, 11:25:51
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Well, at the time of purchase I couldn't wait weeks for the $400 cruise and fog light upgrade because I needed the car quickly. Up until now I didn't really need the cruise, but due to work I will be doing regular 400+ Km trips 3 weeks out of 4, mostly on freeways/highways, so I decided to spring for one.
There are two options (that I found) readily available. One is from Autostrada (http://www.autostrada.com.au/cruise-controls.html), the other is a VDO unit sold by a number of outlets. Both are "e-cruise" plug and play jobs with Hyundai switches that fit in the steering wheel. I went for the Autostrada version. Locally made and supported with 2 year/40000 km warranty and is a little cheaper compared to the VDO unit. I did like the customer service from the Autostrada guys which ultimately made the decision for me.
The unit was posted today, should arrive later this week. I'll do a little writeup on how to fit it, in case someone wants to repeat the process. I'll be upgrading my dash cam to one of these (http://dashboardcamerareviews.com/mini-0803/) at the same time.
Stay tuned ;)
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Good luck with it Hati, but a man with your skill shouldn't have too many probs.. nice to have choices...
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Great review of the dashcam here http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2014/6/15/mini-0803-probably-the-best-mini-dashcam-with-a-screen.html?currentPage=8#comments (http://www.techmoan.com/blog/2014/6/15/mini-0803-probably-the-best-mini-dashcam-with-a-screen.html?currentPage=8#comments)
How do you get power if it is up near the mirror? Would it mount behind GPS on lower edge of screen and still give good vision? I would run power down via bin on top of radio on my FD.
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How do you get power if it is up near the mirror?
What I've done (FD and GD) is route the supplied 12V power cable from the map reading light enclosure (permanent 12V available) out between the windscreen and roof lining.
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Good luck with cruise install. The Autostrada kits are the ones I've fitted and they are very easy with a little know how. If you have an auto be sure to cut the clutch switch wires and the yellow (double check that) wire to the fuse or cruise won't work.
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How do you get power if it is up near the mirror?
What I've done (FD and GD) is route the supplied 12V power cable from the map reading light enclosure (permanent 12V available) out between the windscreen and roof lining.
So how then do I convert to 5V? I will go to auto sparkie if needed but can solder and wire if it is easy.
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So how then do I convert to 5V?
... route the supplied 12V power cable ...
The supplied connector cable system converts from 12V to the required voltage. I spliced into the 12V map lights and soldered in a 12V adaptor socket, into which the supplied plug fits.
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I ran power from behind the cigarette lighter to the top of the dash for my GPS and would do the same for a dashcam. :victory:
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My solution takes around 15 minutes :whistler:
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I note in a parallel thread that high is a better location, though. :goodjob:
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^ Yep, which is why I used the space behind the RVM :winker:
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I have replaced my head unit with a dual DIN job, so all my wiring is going back to behind it, since everything was open. The only splice I had to do elsewhere was the power trigger for the reversing camera input of the head unit.
To power dashcams I use the original cig lighter cable for length, but I get rid of the casing and solder it up directly to my choice of power source. I used to have the map light tapped, but I found it a pain to keep turning the camera on and off, so it got changed to ACC power. The cable routing was done across from the map light space to door with a piece of coat hanger straightened out. After that all wiring was tucked under the plastics with the door seal rubber removed.
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The cruise control arrived as expected and more importantly WHEN expected. Opened the box to find 6 pages of installation and testing instructions, a couple of wiring looms (one Hyundai original for connecting both the cruise buttons and audio controls to the clock spring and the second was the factory loom), the OEM cruise button set and a few cable ties.
Removed the necessary panels and steering wheel. This is all well documented already.
(http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/03/pZ6tB.jpg) (http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/03/pZ6tB.jpg)
This is what is looks like. Those faint at heart need not apply
Soldered the canbus connection first to the OBD port wiring. You can see the wifi connector that I use to connect the iPad to the ECU.
(http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/03/rpA4R.jpg) (http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/03/rpA4R.jpg)
I followed the instructions provided for fitting the switch block, Hyundai loom and additional wiring bits. All "tap in" connections are soldered and retaped. At this point the entire effort came to a screeching halt. I found that my original clockspring does not have the extra connectors required. Quick call to my local Hyundai dealer had one ordered, unfortunately delivery on Monday, so I'll have to tidy up the wiring and leave it at that. I decided to leave the steering column covers and other panels off for the weekend.
This extra time got me thinking. The Autostrada cruise unit comes with a multi-colour LED. They want you to fit it in a spare switch cover. However I remember some of the guys here trying to get the original in-dash cruise lights to work by drilling the housing and fitting LEDs in. So out the instrument panel has come. Had a close look, drilled a pilot hole, used a torch to confirm the right position is used, then drilled it up to size to take the 5 mm factory LED. This thing does green, yellow and red in one, so I used the "Cruise" light position to tell me what is going on. The "Set" light will be ignored.
(http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/03/t9gc1.jpg) (http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/03/t9gc1.jpg)
The black tube coming out from under the panel is "it". At this point the cruise installation is done until my new clockspring arrives.
Now about the new dashcam. This is the 0803 version of the mini dashcam, complete with GPS. The night vision is improved over the 0801 version. I fitted it right where my old one (similar shaped) was.
(http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/03/Ux4p.jpg) (http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/03/Ux4p.jpg)
Like I mentioned it in an other thread, it is quite easy to not notice it in there. The photo camera doesn't do it justice, with naked eyes it's much harder to see.
This is what it looks like from the inside:
(http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/03/WAbh.jpg) (http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/03/WAbh.jpg)
I had a short trip in the car after this, so I pulled the card out of the dash cam and had a look at the recordings.
The card has a directory called "Play". It contains a video/gps player that needs Apple's Quick Time installed. Once that is done, just click on "Player.exe" to work.
It combines the recordings with their relevant GPS log files and displays the video, a Google satellite map overlay with the trip on the video marked up, a speedo, coordinates (lat, long) and a graph that I have no idea what it is for.
When you play a recording the pin moves along the map in sync with the video and speedo. Quite impressive really.
Stay tuned for part 2 on Monday.
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:Agoodpost:
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:whsaid:
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:judges:
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Using the in dash cruise light is brilliant. I will definitely remember that one. I love installing accessories to a very high standard :) cheers.
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Awesome stuff Hati .. great report! :goodjob:
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Good stuff.
Well done.
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:goodjob2:
Looking forward to Part 2. :cool:
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The new clockspring rocked up on time (twice lucky now with deliveries on this project) AND was the right one, so just after lunch I got stuck into finishing the installation.
All I had left from Friday was connecting the loom into the accelerator pedal unit, connect the brains of the cruise unit, run the diagnostics and test it all.
After plugging it all in:
(http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/06/uV0BU.jpg) (http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/06/uV0BU.jpg)
Followed the diagnostics procedure as per instructions. This part is important, because the unit is canbus, i.e. it's digital, so there are no physical connections to things like brake switch, clutch switch, speed pickup and so on. All checked out on the "bench", so a quick test drive later I was the happy owner of a "cruisified" i30 diesel.
The LED I mentioned in Part I of this project works well in the dash. Due to the actual word being clear, the 3 colours are noticeable. Not as bright as the factory fitted LEDs but quite useful never the less.
(http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/06/6KMyu.jpg) (http://imagerocket.com/images/2014/10/06/6KMyu.jpg)
So there you have it. Worthwhile investment if you drive a lot.
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Well done Hati! :goodjob:
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:whsaid:
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:Agoodpost:
Very well illustrated & informative - thanks :D
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:Agoodjob: :judges:
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:Agoodpost: :goodjob:
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:cool!:
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Amazing write up!! I have been wanting to install a factory cruise on my FD diesel. Can I ask how much the cruise control kit cost?
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This particular unit was around 700 delivered.
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-- couple of wiring looms (one Hyundai original for connecting both the cruise buttons and audio controls to the clock spring and the second was the factory loom), the OEM cruise button set and a few cable ties.
Would you please tell us the part number of the wiring loom and Cruise switch and pic of the CC switch.Thank you very much!
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Sorry mate, no can do. It's fitted in the car now and the last thing I want to do is pull it apart again. You can google the parts, I found them before.