The Original i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => GENERAL => Topic started by: uday on January 04, 2015, 08:29:58
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HI,
My car model is Hyundai i30 2008 model. Today when I try to start the car it is not starting up.It is showing lock symbol inside car in dash board.
I am not able to find any clue why this happened ? I am not able to remove the lock.
Can you please suggest
Best Regards
Uday
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Hi Uday,
Could it be that the immobiliser is still on. Try locking the car with the remote, then unlocking it with the remote.
And, welcome the i30OwnersClub!!
FatBoy
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Your remote battery in the key holder may be flat, as it is a 2008 car.
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:welc1 :whsaid: I also suspect the immobilizer. Do you have another key you can try? Also try lubricating the ignition lock (I seem to remember someone saying that can help (Graphite powder is probably the best thing) :undecided:
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:welcum:
Yes, sounds like an immobilizer issue to me too.
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Welcome uday.
Light does sound like immobiliser light.
I'll assume you vehicle is cranking but not starting?
Key battery won't effect immobiliser if it is unlocking normally. The transponder chip inbuilt in the key is excited by the antenna coil which is the black ring around the key barrel.
My guess is that antenna coil is possibly the cause of your no start with immobiliser light on.
I recommend getting a DTC check.
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Welcome uday.
Light does sound like immobiliser light.
I'll assume you vehicle is cranking but not starting?
Key battery won't effect immobiliser if it is unlocking normally. The transponder chip inbuilt in the key is excited by the antenna coil which is the black ring around the key barrel.
My guess is that antenna coil is possibly the cause of your no start with immobiliser light on.
I recommend getting a DTC check.
It's good to have you on board. :goodjob:
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Recently had trouble with my key when the front three button rubber cover fell off. It was three years old and was worn through. Hyundai said I could not purchase the small rubber cover only and would need to buy a complete key for $450.
I found a complete key, less the electronics, on Ebay for $8 so I ordered two. They duly arrived and are exactly the same as the Hyundai original key. I transferred the rubber cover and it is now like new.
I have been told it is not difficult to transfer the electronics to the new housing and Mr Minute in the local supermarket said they will cut the blade if necessary but it is simple to transfer the old blade. I have dismantled one of the new keys and it does look simple.
Certainly will not be paying $450 for a Key from Hyundai
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Thanks Hornet, ridiculous difference in cost isn't it! :victory:
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Dazzler, Quite correct about the cost being excessive. I just saw the price for the i30 FOB key on Ebay has been reduced to $6.74 , look here.
:link: Folding Remote KEY Case FOR Hyundai I20 I30 Flip FOB 3 BTN | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Folding-Remote-Key-Case-for-HYUNDAI-i20-i30-Flip-Fob-3-BTN-/170842862056?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c70731e8)
I am told that the rubber button cover is a problem with most FOB keys but the replacement covers are available for other makes. A friend recently purchased one for his near new Holden Commodore. He said they were available at Super Cheap but they had no Hyundai type.
I am glad I now have a spare because I will need one in another few years time and unless Hyundai or after market retailers make them available our only way to avoid the $450 Hyundai rip off is to buy one from Ebay
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Ex-member Rusty and a few others had the same issue as you when trying to claim them on warranty (thank God for Ebay/online shopping)
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I just bought one, as a spare. :razz:
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Thanks a lot for your responses. I have a spare key. I tried with that as well. I am having the same problem. It is trying to start but not starting. My garage is far from my place. I need at least temporary solution so that at least I can take my car to garage to solve the issue :-(
Best Regards
Uday
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Just a suggestion
Disconnect the battery for 20 to 30 minutes to reset the ecu.
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Also try giving the ignition lock a tap with a small hammer before reinserting the key and trying again.. :cool:
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I thought a blank key without electronics, with the blade cut to suit the door lock, would allow one to unlock the drivers door, insert that key into the steering lock start the motor then drive away. This would enable me to tie a blank key without electronics under the car so that if I lost the proper electronic key I could use the other one without electronics and get out of trouble.
The way I read things here is that unless the electronics are in the ignition key, it will not start the motor and I could be stranded in any remote area.
Have I misread this and is my concern unnecessary?
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You are correct. The blank key will admit you to the car but will not allow the engine to fire. However. a spare key with electronics could be stored securely inside the vehicle, subject to insurance approval, I guess. Our earlybird surfer, has a simple key, minus electronics, which goes into the water, I believe.
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here's a couple of how to's
:link: Hyundai Flip Key Shell Replacement - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kTR-oYA_4o)
:link: Hyundai Flip Key (Keypad Change) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWo2RcemrLE)
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I just have consulted one garage owner. He is going to look the issue. But he is suggesting to check with Hyundai showroom. They will know exact solution for this problem.
I will wait today.If he is not able find the solution then no other go. I need to consult Hyundai support team to solve this issue. I already have tried disconnecting battery and other options. Nothing is working out :-(. Bad way of starting my new year :(
Best Regards
Uday
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Key battery won't effect immobiliser if it is unlocking normally. The transponder chip inbuilt in the key is excited by the antenna coil which is the black ring around the key barrel.
My guess is that antenna coil is possibly the cause of your no start with immobiliser light on.
I recommend getting a DTC check.
Don't overlook this VERY sound advice.
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Thanks Lorian. I will check. Can any one advice me what is this DTC check how this can be checked ?
Best Regards
Uday
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DTC " Diagnostic Trouble Codes " you can get these checked at your local Hyundai service centre.
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I have an OBD2 USB connection lead and software on a laptop PC. If I just plug it into the i30 it should give me any fault codes. Is that correct? A mechanic told me that it may not give specific Hyundai codes but it will read all generic codes and can do no harm to the car.
At this time I am reluctant to interfere with the car computer system but if it can do no harm I will give it a go.
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Do it, as it is only reading, not writing. Post the codes here and we may be able to determine which ones they are.
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Thanks Phil,
I will do it but not today. When I plug it into the car do I just turn on the ignition, start the engine then let the software do it's thing.
Thanks for your support.
What a great source of information this Club is, I hope in time I will be able to pass on information to help other members with their i30's however , we really do not have many problems with this great car.
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Yes, get engine running and use the software to capture codes, not sure whether they are stored or just displayed, either way, get a record and we'll see how we go.
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Garage guy tried various options. He still failed to start. As per your suggestion I have asked him do DTS check up. He did today. It seems he has received some code but he is not aware of what actually problem is based on the code.
Any idea how do we find out the cause of the problem based on the code. Can you guys suggest. I know Hyundai repair center can help. But is there any way we ourselves can find out based on the code ?
Best Regards
Uday
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Ummm... what's the code?
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Problem with this symbol can be in connector EM11. There condense water and connector is oxidizing.
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/7059/konektory.jpg)
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Some information here might help. I have not studied the info but I do not think it has Hyundai specific codes
:link: Trouble-Codes (http://www.trouble-codes.com/)
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What's the code?
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If you can supply your codes, I can look in the Hy manual and try to help, provided there are not too many. :mrgreen:
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Pity Uday has not given the Codes. I am sure the Club Guru'a could assist him.
Having said that I wonder if would fix his problem should he reset the electronics in his key. I read where one can do that by following this procedure but I know not why the say "Infiniti". Must be a name for the i30 somewhere
PROGRAM KEY ON I30
Instructions
o 1
Enter your Infiniti, closing the door behind you. Use your power door lock button on the driver's side door panel to lock all of the Infiniti's doors.
o 2
Complete this step within 10 seconds: insert your key into the ignition of your Infiniti and pull it back out six times. You are alerted by flashing lights when you complete this correctly.
o 3
Re-insert your key into the ignition and turn the key to the setting immediately before the "On" position. Push any button on your keyless entry remote. Push the button within 5 seconds of turning your key in the ignition. Once again, lights will flash to alert you that you've correctly performed this step.
o 4
Turn your car off, remove the key from the ignition and exit your vehicle to end the programming mode.
Read more : :link: How to Program Keyless Entry on an Infiniti I30 | eHow (http://www.ehow.com/how_5943207_program-infiniti-i30-keyless-entry.html)
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Hi,
Thanks a lot for providing the valuable information. I have asked my garage guy to provide the codes. He has not yet responded yet. Tomorrow I am going to garage myself to find out what's happening. I will check the codes and also I will check the procedure to rest the electronics as explained by Hornet.
It's really difficult problem as mentioned by my garage guy. It seems they have 20 years experience in repairing/servicing cars. Even they are taking time to resolve this issue.
I am bit worried and tensed till I resolve the problem. But fortunately I have found this forum. This is really helpful and very supportive forum.
Best Regards
Uday
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WE WANT CODES. WE WANT CODES. LOL.
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Will send you tomorrow. My garage guy is not responding :-(. May be he has tired of solving the problem :-)
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Could be way off but I recon one of these at least :D
P1674-P1675-P1690
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Pity Uday has not given the Codes. I am sure the Club Guru'a could assist him.
Having said that I wonder if would fix his problem should he reset the electronics in his key. I read where one can do that by following this procedure but I know not why the say "Infiniti". Must be a name for the i30 somewhere
Yeah it is, on a Nissan infiniti i30 - wrong club :D
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Could be way off but I recon one of these at least :D
P1674-P1675-P1690
Waving new pickup coil for further emphasis :whistler:
New Smatra coils are one of the quite few things my dealer keeps in stock :mrgreen:
and brake light switches :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
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Guys, Just now received a call from the garage. Hyundai service men came to the garage and check the problem. It seems there are suspecting that the problem with the bad transponder i.e. immobilizers antenna.
They are checking with their factory to make sure that is the problem. And also told me it is very expensive to replace it. Any one knows how much it costs and let me know is there any way to buy online for less price
Best Regards
Uday
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Do you have spare key to try
Sent from my ONE TOUCH 983 using Tapatalk 2
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Yes I have a spare key. I tried with that one as well. It is not working(starting).
Please suggest .. :-(. Unfortunately I bought the car just 5 months back from private dealer without warranty. I did a big mistake by not taking warranty.
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Have you changed the battery in the key fob?
Sent from my ONE TOUCH 983 using Tapatalk 2
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No. I have not changed the battery yet.
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Guys, Just now received a call from the garage. Hyundai service men came to the garage and check the problem. It seems there are suspecting that the problem with the bad transponder i.e. immobilizers antenna.
They are checking with their factory to make sure that is the problem. And also told me it is very expensive to replace it. Any one knows how much it costs and let me know is there any way to buy online for less price
Best Regards
Uday
We have tried to tell you this is the issue a few times. Its should not be expensive to you because the part is well known to be often faulty. Tell them there is a TSB for it, tell them to look on GSW, tell them you want it replaced for free :-)
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No. I have not changed the battery yet.
Don't worry about it, the immobilizer does not use the battery in the key. The smatra chip in the key uses power induced from the coil in the steering column when the ignition is turned on.
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Hi Guys,
Garage guys not able to repair. I took the car to Hyundai service center. They have my car with them for 3 days. Still they are not able to identify the issue. Now they are saying to replace computer inside engine to fix this problem
Any idea ????? How to go about this strange mystery issue
Best Regards
Uday
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Really? That's a bit weird. Did you happen to get the codes?
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I have asked for it. Unfortunately they didn't give it.
Any idea how much this board computer costs ?
Best Regards
Uday
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I have asked for it. Unfortunately they didn't give it.
Any idea how much this board computer costs ?
Best Regards
Uday
Lots and Lots, too much. You need to tell us the code.
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Hi everyone,
New to the forum here. I have the same issue since last Friday with my i30 1.6 CW CRDi (2009). The workshop change the ignition barrel and it still didn't work. Was told by the mech in Hyundai workshop here to change the computer. It will cost me about 15000 NOK (about 2000 USD) for just the computer :blubber:. I need help on this matter please. I will check with the mech on the error code on Monday.
Thanks
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Do not commit to computer replacement. Give us the code and let us see if we can help you first.
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Sometimes when the ECU is faulty itself it can throw up misleading false codes.
Do you have ECU specialist's in your country you could send it to so they could check it out for faults
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Thanks for the reply. I will get the code on Monday as almost the whole country shut down during weekend. I don't know any ECD expert here as I'm not local, I was on assignment working here in Bergen. One of my mate suggest to just disable the immobilizer, any thoughts about that?
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New to the forum here. I have the same issue since last Friday with my i30 1.6 CW CRDi (2009). The workshop change the ignition barrel and it still didn't work. Thanks
The SMATRA coil which is often the defective part goes around the ignition barrel, it is not part of it.
There is no (easy) way of disabling the immobiliser, otherwise it wouldn't be very secure would it?
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Or another thing you could ask your HY dealer is to reflash the ecu, worth a try
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Hi everyone,
Manage to get hold of the codes, P1640 and P1690. The part I was asked to change is 391052A766.
Anyone can share their thoughts about this?
Thanks
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P1640 = Main relay malfunction
P1690 = Smartra No response
According to Google.
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P1640 = Main relay malfunction
P1690 = Smartra No response
According to Google.
Hi Phil,
So in your opinion, the only way to solve this is to change out the ECU? Any thoughts to share?
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I'm not qualified to advise here, but I would say no.
The main relay fault MAY be caused by the Smartra failure. Smartra, is the name for the car immobilizer and the most common fault with this system is the pick up aerial which is located around the steering column itself. We have a tech member (Cruiserfied), who WILL know much more than I do about the solution, so be patient and take what he advises, over anything I say. Good luck.
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I agree. Nothing in those codes to suggest an ECU swap is required, unless they already replaced the SMATRA coil and perhaps the Main relay....
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Talked with the mechanic again with help from my colleague (I don't speak Norsk). According to the chief mech, the ECU short circuit and cause the immobilizer failed. Since can't trace where the short circuit comes from, he suggest to change the ECU due to safety reason. I smell some profit making there but again I maybe wrong and it is failed ECU (unlucky). Plan to get the ECU to send to UK to recode a new unit (a lot cheaper than here). Appreciate if someone can share their thoughts here or this can be for future reference.
Cheers.
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As your car is out of warranty, I would investigate a repair by an accredited auto electrician. In Australia, each state has car associations that accredit businesses, to make sure that work performed is undertaken by qualified personnel. It would most likely be cheaper than Hyundai.
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I'm still sat on the side of the fence that replaces the SMATRA coil and relay as the next action, but if you must do something with the ECU you could send it somewhere like BBA-Reman to have it tested, they have a good reputation, but plenty of other companies exist in the UK.
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... Plan to get the ECU to send to UK to recode a new unit ...
If you really must do this (I'm with Lorian, regarding the pickup coil assembly) you could do worse than these guys:
:link: The ECU Doctor (http://www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/)
I sent my father-in-law's Mitsubishi GT3000 ECU to them. They tested, repaired and returned it, for £132. Total turnaround was 3 days, from me sending it to them using 1st class post.
If they test and no fault found, they simply return it to you. Testing & return cost is quite low considering they take around an hour to do it.
If you do decide to use these people, mention beforehand that you're a member of mitsubishi-forums.com as that'll get you a 10% discount, so I discovered.
Good luck.
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... Plan to get the ECU to send to UK to recode a new unit ...
If you really must do this (I'm with Lorian, regarding the pickup coil assembly) you could do worse than these guys:
:link: The ECU Doctor (http://www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/)
I sent my father-in-law's Mitsubishi GT3000 ECU to them. They tested, repaired and returned it, for £132. Total turnaround was 3 days, from me sending it to them using 1st class post.
If they test and no fault found, they simply return it to you. Testing & return cost is quite low considering they take around an hour to do it.
If you do decide to use these people, mention beforehand that you're a member of mitsubishi-forums.com as that'll get you a 10% discount, so I discovered.
Good luck.
Thats the company I was thinking of but didn't like to say as I've had no experience with them just what I have read on other forums and the reviews were good
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Hi everyone,
The car was fixed :D. I decided to get my ECU fix in UK (via recommended ECU doctor by Shambles) after all the back and forth. Just when I asked Hyundai to get the ECU out for me, the technician in local Hyundai suddenly decided to open up the ECU to check. Turn out the ECU was not ground properly and caused the problem. Transponder changed and ECU grounded properly, car starts as normal.
Just a note for anyone have the same issue in future, maybe try to check if this will fix the issue, save some cash.
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:Agoodpost: :agoodidea: :thanx:
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Hi everyone,
The car was fixed :D. I decided to get my ECU fix in UK (via recommended ECU doctor by Shambles) after all the back and forth. Just when I asked Hyundai to get the ECU out for me, the technician in local Hyundai suddenly decided to open up the ECU to check. Turn out the ECU was not ground properly and caused the problem. Transponder changed and ECU grounded properly, car starts as normal.
Just a note for anyone have the same issue in future, maybe try to check if this will fix the issue, save some cash.
Just shows as soon as you mention you're gonna take it away they decide to have a proper look to see whats the problem is. Glad you got it sorted :goodjob:
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:wts: :judges: :happydance:
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ECU not grounded properly? IIRC there are two or three earthing straps from the right and turret to the ECU loom.