Tha Original i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: liability on December 25, 2015, 22:46:27
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Santa bought me a vacuum oil extraction pump :-)
I just picked up some oil and a filter but don't know what size the plastic nut thing is on top of the oil filter housing. Some how-to-do guides say it is 28mm, but I just tried a 24mm spanner on it and it is only a fraction too small, as if the nut might be 25mm, or perhaps 26mm. I don't have any sockets that size so to try, so will have to buy one once I know the right size.
Can anyone tell me what size socket I need? I note in some of the guides the the plastic nut has a sort of clip on either side of it, my CDRi doesn't have this and is just the plain nut.
Thanks in advance.
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IIRC it's a 27mm on my 2008, but can't be sure it isn't changed on newer models...
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Answering my own question, I borrowed a 1 1/16 inch socket from the father in law and it did the job :)
A wrench conversion chart I have tells me that 1 1/16 inch is 26.99mm, so it looks like I need to buy a 27mm socket.
Update - Just picked up a 27mm socket and it is a perfect fit.
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Hope you own a torque wrench as the housing and thread is only plastic. Should be torqued to the correct setting at all times. :exclaim:
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Hope you own a torque wrench as the housing and thread is only plastic. Should be torqued to the correct setting at all times. :exclaim:
Hmm, never used my torque wrench for that, just tighten with ease, that will do the trick... :mrgreen:
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FYI, the torque setting for that is, 25 Nm, 2.5 Kgf.m or 18.1 lb-ft
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On my filter housing (FD year-2011., made in Czech) it says 35Nm
I recently began to loose oil and I can see the oil is leaking (also?) through the filter housing - so I tried to "torque" it again to 35Nm as I suspected it might became loose. It didn't. So I "torqued" it up to 42 Nm but I didn't actually feel that anything actually moved..
I guess the filter Mahle ox351x is not that of a perfect fit so I'll try something else.
Can anyone put a list of original part numbers?
I want to order it from Kia as i presume it is cheaper (but same part) and also I don't like my local hyundai dealer as they tried to con me.
Also, does anyone know which parts hyundai and kia use? Mahle, Mann...or smthg else?
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I don't know how good the delivery service is in your country - but generally you can get the OEM parts for this quite cheaply on ebay. As to the original part number no idea sorry.
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According to my records, the oil filter torque should be 25 Nm for the 1.6 CRDI engine. Do NOT over torque this component as it is only plastic and if you split it, it will be stuffed for good.
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According to my records, the oil filter torque should be 25 Nm for the 1.6 CRDI engine. Do NOT over torque this component as it is only plastic and if you split it, it will be stuffed for good.
Sounds like that maybe the initial cause of the filter leaking in the first place.
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Could be :)
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I agree. It is one of the reason I started service my car by myself.
At the hyundai dealer, I am preety sure, they don't use torque wrenches.
Again, on the filter housing it says 35Nm.
I can take a picture if you want.
You guys dont have any leaks through the filter cap?
I guess the overtightened it and now I don't know shoud I go for more Nm or just leave it at 35 (and leaking - I hope only at higher loads)
Btw it is the same with the tyres - they overtight them - no torque wrench and it goes (I bet) over 150Nm with those extenders. Now when i torque it to 100 Nm ot feels loose but I leave it at that.
Soon I have filter change so I will carefully inspect the housing for having some cracks.
Are there anywhere those filter housings available for purchasing?
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Can someone post a picture of a filter housing with properly put gasket.
(Now I ask myself of I pit the gasket on the wrong place)
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Take a look at this. Page 11 in the instruction Instroe made...
:link: HOW TO: Change the diesel oil filter (https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=11136.msg123908#msg123908)
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Also, does anyone know which parts hyundai and kia use? Mahle, Mann...or smthg else?
When I spoke with Mann in the UK, they claimed to manufacture the Hyundai original oil, engine air and cabin air filters.
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I agree. It is one of the reason I started service my car by myself.
At the hyundai dealer, I am preety sure, they don't use torque wrenches.
Again, on the filter housing it says 35Nm.
I can take a picture if you want.
You guys dont have any leaks through the filter cap?
I guess the overtightened it and now I don't know shoud I go for more Nm or just leave it at 35 (and leaking - I hope only at higher loads)
Btw it is the same with the tyres - they overtight them - no torque wrench and it goes (I bet) over 150Nm with those extenders. Now when i torque it to 100 Nm ot feels loose but I leave it at that.
Soon I have filter change so I will carefully inspect the housing for having some cracks.
Are there anywhere those filter housings available for purchasing?
I DO, I DO. :thanks: :D i have 3 torque wrenches and love them all. My 1/2" one cost me $1000.
There are two torque settings for the filter housings 25nm and 35nm. I've never taken notice of which engine is which. I just read the cap each time so i dont get it wrong.
Overtightening the cap will do nothing to stop the leak. The seal is down the side of the cap so it should seal before its even screwed right in. I would say there is a hairline crack and you should replace the cap ASAP.
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Thank you both, and I want to appologise and correct myself - I meant here in my two nearest Hyundai dealers (about not using torque wrenches)
So, I still don't know about the fuel filter and manufacturea it for Hyundai. Can you clarify that cruiserfies?
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I would have thought that in Croatia, the Hy dealers are servicing cars like yours every day. So the correct part number and part should be easily available from your dealer.
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I inspected today the housing from outside and it seems that it cracked on the bottom (fixed) part of the housing.
The price for new one is almost 100€.
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:Shocked:
Is there a photo posibility :exclaim:
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160407/775c68a0faa0e67bb4f684d75b6bda10.jpg)
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I can't see where it cracked, but Thanks. :goodjob2:
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I can't see where it cracked, but Thanks. :goodjob2:
:whsaid:
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Maybe this...?
(http://i.imgur.com/VRlhRhO.png)
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I thought it was the black 'wedge' shape on the side of the circular part (where the filter sits) - basically inline vertically with the edge of what appears to be a mounting bracket and/or inline with the edge of the shadow of whatever is casting a relatively straight line shadow.
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It was difficult to take a picture - I taught the crack was just right from the middle of the picture. But the bold part apparently isn't a crack. Now I think the crack is the line that goes from that bold part.
Anyway, I just had it repaired and took the old one with me to make inspection later - I will put a photo later (now I am at work)
Some oil and coolant was spilled during the change and the mechanic guy did fill a bit back but now I see the coolant container (through which the coolant is filled) is completely empty.
Oil I didn't check yet.
Also the housing came with a new filter which is great but I am confused because I am about to do the oil change any day now and I dont know if I will need to change the filter again (because I think it is spoiled now, with the old oil).
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I just inspected the old housing - didn't find any cracks !!? So apparently I threw away 100€ :mad:
And btw do you think the guy (kia service) who put the new one used torque wrench? No he didn't!! (and he undertightened it)
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:head_knock: :crazy2:
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Also, does anyone know which parts hyundai and kia use? Mahle, Mann...or smthg else?
When I spoke with Mann in the UK, they claimed to manufacture the Hyundai original oil, engine air and cabin air filters.
But why then is the housing of oil filter labeled "mahle"?
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160408/9643cf8f4a1f6a30283a70f6c7fd0843.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160408/aa62f527e9921731f4223b94ac90a5e9.jpg)
Obviously I mistook factory linings for cracks - I was mislead by someones idea here but the fact is I still can't figure out what caused the leakage of the oil.
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:undecided: Must have just been a dodgy seal at the thread!
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160409/4f471d7294b706af8901a4acf976fa7e.jpg)
A few moths ago I checked the filter and srewed it back at 35Nm. It seemed very clean.
Back then the leakage was a lot smaller. It was the reason for checking.
Before driving to the service I didn't want to check (as I tightened it to 42Nm, few weeks ago) and feared that if I open it now a greater crack would happen.
Anyway, now I need ti see the new ones behavior - first need to clean it. (As the mechanic didn't srew it enough and it leaked. One cm (about half inch) more srewing was needed - on the new filter housing there is a mark - and when I srewed it rightly the two marks lined up.
I don't know how the mechanic guy missed it.
He also didn't put enough coolant back to the system. The filler was totally empty. And I refiled it (with distilled water) a few times as it kept being soaked up (down).
The temperatures where never above 93 and with holf full coolant tank they went up to 97 (even in idle) - also the dpf regen activated during that trip - I hope the heat didn't do some damage.
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Not good enough is it! :fum:
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the mechanic didn't srew it enough and it leaked. One cm (about half inch) more srewing was needed - on the new filter housing there is a mark - and when I srewed it rightly the two marks lined up.
I don't know how the mechanic guy missed it.
He also didn't put enough coolant back to the system. The filler was totally empty. And I refiled it (with distilled water) a few times as it kept being soaked up (down).
Was it a hy garage?
If so, need to be highlighted to HY HQ
Plus needs to mentioned to garage boss and ask what action will taken plus confirmation it has been taken etc etc.
Also, I'd be looking for a new garage.
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Not hyundai garage, kia. And I want to correct myself about saying it was leaking after he srewed it - it was just dirty.
The guy turned on the engine and checked for leakage - then he commented about me needing to replace serpentine belt and the tensioner+rollers. So I dont think he did a bad job there - he is better then the ones who oversrew.
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When I get time I will take out the old oring to inspect it. (Want to know why it leaked), also I ofc lube the oring when I change it (on filter change).
One thing I didn't mention was that sometimes I had a bit difficulties to srew the filter cap the right way. I mean the right angle, if you get me.
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Rubber seal taken off and inspected - it seamed all right.
I made the oil change yesterday. The new filter with cca 300 km old oil flew through it seemed as black and dirty as the old one.
But I left it stay.
The old one (Mahle) I broke to make a measirement it has height 104 mm and lenght cca 156 cm (when rolled out)
Need to buy new air filter, a/c filter, and waiting for new fuel filter - ufi - made in china which is allegedly original.
I guess hyundai and kia use ufi for fuel filters, Mahle for oil filters, and the air and cabin I still don't know