Tha Original i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: nvo2002 on September 03, 2016, 22:42:26
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Got the workshop manual for the petrol version but since 2012 I still can't get a work shop manual for a 2012 1.6 diesel i30 Any ideas?
Want to workout how the egr obtains it signals whether to open or close
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ECU contols the egr. I would guess there are tons of different parameters that the ECU uses to control the egr.
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Thought as much.No one seems to have access to a diesel workshop manual do they?
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It won't tell you much. All I know is that the EGR seems to be deactivated when AC is used. Other than that there are resistance values to check correct operation, but no description on what causes engagement. The main thing is to make sure it is clean and operating, apparently.
There are a few who have disconnected and removed the egr altogether, but I wouldn't advise that.
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That's what I have been tossing up whether to block the egr valve or not.Looked up Wikipedia and it suggested that removing it might be a good idea.I am looking for a scan tool Autel 802
In case I get a code if I decide to block the egr
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Also what does the ecu monitor to gauge whether the egr is operating correctly.Perhaps the O2 sensors.
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The function of egr is to cool the combustion temp in the cylinders. Unfortunately, it dirties the oil in the process. Those that have removed theirs, have not reported any burnt valves or holes in pistons as a result. I pefer to leave it as is especially in a diesel which has a higher combustion temperature than petrol.
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Many of the newest engines do not allow blocking of the egr. If you block it physically you will most likely get check engine light on. If you want to disable the egr i suggest you go to some shop to reprogram your ECU and disable the egr from the program.
I cannot see any harm not using the egr. In cold temps it will take little bit longer for the engine to heat up. Turbo diesel engines have been used for decades before egr came up. As phil said the burning temp in the cylinder rises a bit and it will create bit more NOx. But without the egr your engine stays cleaner. Erg woks only with partial gas pedal. When you floor your gas pedal the egr is disabled to produce the max power to get max acceleration.
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Good Luck. Hyundai has kept a tight lid on all workshop manuals for all their latest common rail diesel vehicles.
Blocking off the EGR usually results in improved performance and fuel efficiency. It may make your vehicle's emission levels 'illegal'. :whistler:
The increase in combustion temperature should be considered, if unsure, fit an exhaust gas temperature monitor.
By drilling a 3mm hole in the EGR blocking plate you can usually allow enough gas through to fool the ECU and avoid warning lights.
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Since I have (TOAD) total diagnostics software with ecu flashing capabilities will try to see if it will allow me to turn off the egr.
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In relation to diesel motors this opinion seems rational ( even though it is US based). :whistler: :link: Remove the EGR Valve - Bad for Your Diesel Engine? - WeatherImagery (http://www.weatherimagery.com/blog/diesel-engine-egr-bad/)
In regard to correct emissions in Australia, I am advised that there is no test for diesel vehicles.
My gut feeling is that egr became part of diesel design to accommodate an environmental wish-list without considering the overall effect ( eg oil contamination / fuel efficiency) on the motor.
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The Diesel engine is quite adequately able to cope with the EGR . Oil contamination doesn't seem to be a significant factor in Diesel engine reliability.
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only now i see this topic. I monitor when the egr is open. I see it by o2 sensor equivalence ratio drop.
Egr turns some of the exhaust gases back to the engine.
i keep the ac on almost all the time. although i dobt need it and i like good economy, i dont eant the egr to be open.
why? because i have fear it will be dirt-blocked and I'll have to clean it or replace it. also, i have a dpf filter which I think will be quicker full with egr open. also i am trying to make an experiment.
when my colleague bought a new gd and drove few thousand km (i think) i checked her oil and it was yellow - far from any dark color.
I will do my next oil change earlier than i should and I hope after the change I will see almost yellow color of the oil for at least few hundred thousand kilometers after oil change. The case by now was that its dark right after the oil change.
otherwise, i dont think there should br any concerns of that soot being bad for the engine.
also, to mention, after 2500rpm egr closes.
if there only was a way to simulate the ac on. because this way I'm doing it is pain in the ass. Ac was smelly so I disinfected it (this time thoroughly) and to prevent the mold/humidity I turn to heat few minutes before turning off the engine.
which is annoying. also it seems that the ac actually works (consumes extra fuel) when turned to heat even on warm weather with full hot engine.
dpf regeneration intervals are the same after trying to keep ac on (egr off) all the time. 407 km from last finish to new one start.
IDK why the "calculated engine load" goes up when the EGR opens?
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True Phil, :)
I should make it clear that I put a cleaner world ahead of more efficient but polluting vehicles.
You will probably remember the 1980s when cars were fitted with air pumps to accommodate emission standards. They were as useful as, and soon replaced with better engine designs.
EGR is fine as long as you service the vehicle regularly. Therefore one could argue that we use more petroleum products because of it.
From my observation, I would guess that many of the diesel cars that are a few years old are now polluting more because of an egr system due to lack of maintenance. The egr does not function due to soot and sludge build-up.
Similarly, the DPF now being fitted to some diesels requires the correct oil to be used and emits finer particulates at the tail pipe than a car without DPF. These finer particles are alleged to be more dangerous than non-DPF particles when inhaled.
Well that was a cheery note to end on. Cheers :)
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Yes very cheery :lol:
However your statement about a cleaner world is incorrect. The removal of EGR will cause increased Nox emissions. Nox is the dirty brown stuff we see as smog in cities which I believe reacts to sunlight. All engines and components are made to be serviced at the regular intervals, so an old EGR valve should be working as well as a new one provided it is maintained properly.
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In regard to correct emissions in Australia, I am advised that there is no test for diesel vehicles.
Australia’s current standards are Euro 4, which were implemented in 2010.
Euro 5 standards kick in on November 1, 2016.
The move to Euro 5 will apparently require a 28% reduction in NOx emissions and an 80% cut in particulate matter emissions... :undecided:
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Yes very cheery :lol:
so an old EGR valve should be working as well as a new one provided it is maintained properly.
That's the point Phil. " maintained properly".
A few weeks ago I removed an egr system that is prone to coolant water ingress, therefore engine damage due to overheating (not on a Hyundai).
Even though the vehicle had been serviced regularly, the egr was gummed up with tar, In other words, the owner ( like many others) had paid for "service" or "maintenance" that was merely an oil and filter change.
Cheers G. :)
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In regard to correct emissions in Australia, I am advised that there is no test for diesel vehicles.
Australia’s current standards are Euro 4, which were implemented in 2010.
Euro 5 standards kick in on November 1, 2016.
The move to Euro 5 will apparently require a 28% reduction in NOx emissions and an 80% cut in particulate matter emissions... :undecided:
Interesting. So we can be sure that DPF will be fitted to all new vehicles. Recently, I was talking to an ix35 owner who is already investigating ways to 'decommission' his DPF.
In Queensland cars do not go over the pit annually , only upon sale and they aren't tested for emissions. Consequently, we have 10-15 year old +++ cars that probably have never seen the inside of a workshop. Ahhh Bliss! :D
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It won't tell you much. All I know is that the EGR seems to be deactivated when AC is used. Other than that there are resistance values to check correct operation, but no description on what causes engagement. The main thing is to make sure it is clean and operating, apparently.
There are a few who have disconnected and removed the egr altogether, but I wouldn't advise that.
I guess I had our discussion in the back of my mind yesterday when I started to a service on a 2012 diesel vehicle that surprised me.
It was a finance company repo, had 175,000 km on the clock and only had TWO services noted in the log book :whistler:
Pulled the MAP sensor expecting it to be choked with garbage. It looked new. Same with EGR / manifold (used bore scope). No sludge or soot.
:D Penny Dropped. The vehicle had spent its entire life in our tropical North; no doubt the Air Cond would be permanently on, therefore the EGR would also be disabled.