i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => PETROL => Topic started by: 2i30s on October 20, 2009, 10:14:50
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I'm off to the dealer for my 7,500kms service on the weekend,today i checked my oil and its down on the add notch on the dipstick[i think thats 1 ltr] the last time i checked my oil was at 5'000kms and it was full.I'm not leaking or even sweating oil yet.it was changed at 1'000kms because I'm fussy so its really only 6'500kms old.my wife's cw has been serviced at 1'000kms like my hatch.her cw has 5'000 kms on it and not a problem with the oil.these i30s are our first brand new cars and I'm not sure if a new engine burns a bit of oil for a while or not. :rolleyes:
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Check it a couple of times Steve b4 you top it up.. I've got the diesel (as if you didn't know) and I checked it on the level one day and it was down a bit between services... I put half a litre in and that seemed to fix it .. Think from memory it was between the 15,000 and 30,000 services during some unusually hot weather for Tassie..
Have done over 45,000 kms now and hasn't needed another drop between services and I go 15,000kms (go figure :rolleyes:)
I assume you were on nice flat ground when you checked yours and that you gave the oil a while to settle after a run or when the engine was cold?
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i'll check it again tomorrow :eek:
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The petrol i30 motor isn't notorious for drinking oil, so maybe there was a bit of a mix up...?
Don't worry mate, I've been there, and done that!! :lol:
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i thought i may have missread the dipstick last time but i checked my oil whilst out for a smoke a minite ago.its down on the add one litre mark again.im at 11,500 km and i dont understand how a new engine is needing oil.my last car had 250,000 km on it and never needed a drop of oil in between a 10,000 km oil change. our i30s only go 7,500 kms between iol changes. i thought last time i hadnt let it sit long enough before checking the oil,but 5 hours is definetly long enough. i wonder if the castrol magnatec oil the dealers use is actualy good enough or its another problem alltogether. the wifes cw is not having the same problem as my hatch and she travels twice as far as me each week.
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MRHi30 who hasn't been on for ages had some bad experiences with magnatec so I'm going to put Castrol edge sport in my Wife's Tiida too now... But so far I havent had to top it up between services (10,000km)
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weve been going by the book [7,500 km oilchange] and im a bit worried where that oil is going,its not on the ground or the engine its self [leaks] so its going somewhere.
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I'm guessing you aren't noticing any smoke on hard accelleration or any drop in performance or increase in engine noise? I'd stick half a litre in and see what that does (and mention it to your dealer as well)
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it still sounds and drives as new [except for the power and economy getting better] im going to top up the oil in the morning and check it between now and my next service.there is no smoke on start up or whilst its ideling and doesnt smell oily or fumey like its burning it.im not angry about it im more concerned.where is it going.? [both our cars are 2.0 petrol]
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You say it looks like it needs 1 L of oil to top up. But don't add more than 1/2 L. Then leave for about 5-10 mins and check again before adding any more oil. DO NOT OVER FILL.
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If the oil is not dangerously low, I would just take the car as it is to the dealership that done the last oil change and ask them to check it out. They can then confirm the loss of oil for themselves and decide what needs to be done about it.
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SS has a good point.. best to get it sorted properly sooner rather than later IF there is a problem..;-|
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thanx for the advice. im going to take it in to be looked at.
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When do you check oil? Don't check it right after you turn off the car. You must wait for oil to "come back". I checked the oil once maybe a minute after turning the engine off and it was barely over the "empty". So I rushed went to the gas station, bought 1 lit of oil and put it in. At that time I thought there's something wrong with my engine. So I drove for a while, parked the car and went to eat. After approx 40 mins, I came back to the car and checked the level. Guess what, it was almost over "full" (which also isn't that good).
So, my suggestion would be, when checking the oil, wait at least 10 min's after shutting the engine off.
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i checked the oil after it had been siting for over 4 hours. good advice though Accim.thanks mate. :razz:
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For what it is worth:
For the best results check after it has been standing for at least 12 hours, i.e. overnight.
Then again after a decent trip so the oil is flowing freely. Leave a minimum of 20 minutes before you check otherwise you'll get a misleading low reading, as accim found out.
This way you get 2 readings and can safely rely on say the mid point between cold and hot readings.
Also, check around tye sump plug, oil filter housing and generally check for oil leaks on the engine block etc.
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im willing to try anything,thanx eye30 for the advice. :razz:
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Just a small point, but is the car sitting on level ground when you check it.
Just a few inches of lean from one end of the car to the other, or across from one side to the other will give a totally force reading.
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Also, there is a possibility the main seal (between sump and gearbox is leaking). Shouldn't happen in a new car but......... cars being cars :eek:
Check your gearbox/ transmission fluid level and make sure it's not overfull.
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Just a small point, but is the car sitting on level ground when you check it.
Just a few inches of lean from one end of the car to the other, or across from one side to the other will give a totally force reading.
dead flat garage floor.
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Also, there is a possibility the main seal (between sump and gearbox is leaking). Shouldn't happen in a new car but......... cars being cars :eek:
Check your gearbox/ transmission fluid level and make sure it's not overfull.
Is this possible :question:
I thought that the only part of a gearbox that engine oil could enter, was the bell housing.
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possable,but.it would leak out.my engine isnt even sweating or leaking oil.
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oil update. :rolleyes: after work today i dropped into my dealers and mentioned the disappearing oil. i told them i was having to add 1 liter of oil each 5,000kms [roughly] and showed them my receipt to prove it. the car was put up on the hoist and two mechanics had a five minute look and couldn't find any leaks. they plugged a code reader box in under the steering column and there was nothing wrong there also.they looked in my service book at the oil change intervals and said I'm up to date with oil changes so that's not the cause. the dealer changed at 1,000kms the oil and filter,at my request.it was changed again at 7,500kms [but needed 1liter added at 6.000kms mark] its coming on to its 15,000kms service and Ive only done 13,000kms and it had another 1 liter top up again. they told me it was most likely my 1hour stop start travel home from work in traffic. [same rout to work is 8 minits] that excuse for oil vanishing sounds like crap, i think its the oil they use. :eek: :mad: CASTROL MAGNATECK 5/W30.
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that excuse for oil vanishing sounds like crap, i think its the oil they use. :eek: :mad: CASTROL MAGNATECK 5/W30.
Hi Steve.. I agree that excuse is crap... Not sure about the oil though.. I have been using it in the wife's Tiida since new and it hasn't used a drop between services (every 10,000 km or 12 months whichever comes first ..) It's having its 2nd birthday and 2nd service @ around 18,000 kms later this month...
Also used it in the 2006 Getz before that without any problems..
MRH130 (Michael) who appears to have disappeared ... said he has had major issues with Magnatec in the past but wouldn't elaborate ..so just to be on the safe side I am now buying Castrol Edge Sport 5w30 in bulk and using it in both cars...
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I'm thinking about suplying my own oil at service time. :idea:
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As it's not leaking out, either below (or into the coolant) then there is,I believe, only one other place it can be going. Unless of course the Hyundai dealer would like to challenge the laws of physics.
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Where the exhaust fumes come out, I would run my finger around the inside of it, to see if it's oily.
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Where the exhaust fumes come out, I would run my finger around the inside of it, to see if it's oily.
If the exhaust tip is oily then i doubt the car would be still going lol....
I used Castrol oils in my workshop and they were good but i had customers coming back after 5-7000kms with the oil level droped, no leaks, no smoke or anything like that, just disapering oil.... Could never figure it out & after these few complaints i changed my oil to a bulk company called Atlantic Oils who uses Caltex & Mobil as there main supliers.... Scince then i have had no problems at all & all i can put it down to is the Castrol oils & Personaly will never use or recomend them ever again.
My only advice would be to Supply your own oil at the next service Possibly Mobil Super 3000 0W/40 or 5W/40 & Check the oil level when you get home from that service to make sure the oil is filled to the correct level
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I use Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30, without any problems..
(http://i858.photobucket.com/albums/ab144/SRT_Metro/4l-mobil-1-5w30-esp-form.jpg)
http://www.mobil-1.co.uk/cms/Mobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-40.aspx (http://www.mobil-1.co.uk/cms/Mobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-40.aspx)
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As it's not leaking out, either below (or into the coolant) then there is,I believe, only one other place it can be going. Unless of course the Hyundai dealer would like to challenge the laws of physics.
I agree with Lorian. If it is not leaking out or into anything, where is it going :question:
If I had no visible leaks and was convinced it was not leaking into the coolant/gearbox or where ever possible, in my opinion, I would assume it must be burning it, whatever oil I was using.
Even if not using the best of oils, it can't just disappear without a cause.
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Valve Seals?
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I'm thinking about suplying my own oil at service time. :idea:
The Magnatec 5w30 is a "medium" 30 weight viscosity (10.06). Some other w30 oils are a bit thicker such as the Castrol Edge 5w30 (12.0). However, since your car has used oil right from the beginning (you said it needed a top-up after 5000km from the initial 1000km service where the oil was changed) I'd be trying a different oil at the next service. I'd also be topping up with the newly chosen oil as well until then.
I'd suggest an even more viscous oil than the Edge 5w30 and go for a 0w40 oil and monitor its consumption. If it arrests it, then re-assess your options from there - stick with it or try another. The Edge may also be "good enough" to solve the problem and cheap as well. Don't worry about mixing them... they all mix.
I suggest you initially try either Mobil 1 0w40 or Castrol 0w40. Both of which are, I believe excellent oils and significantly better than the Magnatec - and priced accordingly of course. :D
If the real problem is a bad valve oil seal or other then changing oils might help but obviously can't fix it.
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Take the filler cap off and look at the oil which may be on the filler cap.
Does it look OK or is it a thick looking treacle type?
Also, smell it, don't get oil on the end of your nose as everyone will make silly remarks :lol:, and see if it smells of burnt toffee.
If so, then you have a problem and see garage asap.
Wihout reading all posts again, have you undertaken a controlled dip stick test?
i.e. fill to full and monitor over a period of time. But make sure you measure car is at same spot and best done first thing in morning before you start engine.
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Problem is in Castrol oil, I in my service garage have the same problem with all 2.0 engines in hyundai, now we use Mobil and Valvoline. I personally use Mobil 5W-50 for my I30, in my getz 1.6 I use Valvoline 10W-60 and never had a problem with oil. to all my customers i change oil every 7500 km regardles th service book.
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i think dachos reason is right. i checked the wife's oil in the cw and it needs half a liter of oil, and its got 2,000kms less on it than my car.I've never used castrol oil in any of my previous cars because i was told by my father it wasn't very good. hes allways changed his own oil and swears by Valvoline or penrite. has any one found the castrol oil used by the dealers to be not up to its job.? thanks for your help. :mrgreen:
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Take the filler cap off and look at the oil which may be on the filler cap.
Does it look OK or is it a thick looking treacle type?
Also, smell it, don't get oil on the end of your nose as everyone will make silly remarks :lol:, and see if it smells of burnt toffee.
If so, then you have a problem and see garage asap.
Wihout reading all posts again, have you undertaken a controlled dip stick test?
i.e. fill to full and monitor over a period of time. But make sure you measure car is at same spot and best done first thing in morning before you start engine.
no nasty smell or treakel on cap,eye.
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has any one found the castrol oil used by the dealers to be not up to its job.? thanks for your help. :mrgreen:
In my previous petrol car I used to use Castrol Magnatec and changed the oil and filter myself and in between the oil changes my car never needed topping up and it had done over 150,000 miles, before I scrapped it for an i30.
I agree that some engine oils give better protection than others and I would see it even more important to use a very good quality one, if I was only having my car serviced once a year. In your case you are losing oil and in my opinion I can't see that the quality of oil you use should have any excessive impact on that.
The way I see it is good quality oil has more additives in it and offers better protection, especially on short journeys, but would find it difficult to understand how it could have any impact on the oils consumption.
Keep up the investigation 2i30s, while you still have your warranty.
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has any one found the castrol oil used by the dealers to be not up to its job.? thanks for your help. :mrgreen:
In my previous petrol car I used to use Castrol Magnatec and changed the oil and filter myself and in between the oil changes my car never needed topping up and it had done over 150,000 miles, before I scrapped it for an i30.
I agree that some engine oils give better protection than others and I would see it even more important to use a very good quality one, if I was only having my car serviced once a year. In your case you are losing oil and in my opinion I can't see that the quality of oil you use should have any excessive impact on that.
The way I see it is good quality oil has more additives in it and offers better protection, especially on short journeys, but would find it difficult to understand how it could have any impact on the oils consumption.
Keep up the investigation 2i30s, while you still have your warranty.
so why is the oil disappearing in two cars using the same brand of oil .? its eather the hyundai engines or the oil :rolleyes:
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has any one found the castrol oil used by the dealers to be not up to its job.?
We used it when i work at a Nissan dealer and the 20w/50 oil was fine for consumption but if it was not changed every 7,500kms it would turn to sludge....
Any grade lower than that seemed to dissapear....
Would say im about 99% sure it will be the oil used rather than the engines....
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so why is the oil disappearing in two cars using the same brand of oil .? its eather the hyundai engines or the oil :rolleyes:
In your position I would hope it's the oil and on future services, I would just make sure that the dealer uses an oil that's approved by Hyundai. In my UK owner's manual they make mention of Shell Helix and a range of viscosities according to your temperature. If the temperature in where you live is high, I would imagine your engine oil would need to be of a higher viscosity and if the temperatures in where you live are low, I would imagine your engine oil would need to be of a lower viscosity.
If I thought it was the oil as you do, I think I would get it changed to something Hyundai approved of straight away and hope it sorts itself out and if it doesn’t, you always have the warranty to fall back on :wink:
Good luck and I hope using a different oil sorts it.
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I think starseeker may have actually hit on something there .. it could be the combinationof the oil and the very high temps you have been experiencing in Melbourne....
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lately we have had lows over night of only 18c and highs of 40c plus.ill blame the oil,at this stage. :razz:
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in problems and issues,non model specific i have started asking questions about engine oil. what you use or wont use. I'm not using the oil that my dealer uses next time around. :rolleyes:
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in problems and issues,non model specific i have started asking questions about engine oil. what you use or wont use. I'm not using the oil that my dealer uses next time around. :rolleyes:
I've expressed my view here already. To add:
There are only three ways an engine "uses" oil (excluding unusual ways).
- Leaks out via engine seals/gaskets and drips on the ground
- Burns/blows out the exhaust after entering the combustion chamber via the valve stems
- Burns/blows out the exhaust after passing the rings from the bottom to enter the combustion chamber
The passage of oil past the rings is inevitable and required to ensure cylinder lubrication so even with the exception of the gaskets and the valve stem leaks, some oil consumption is inevitable - even desirable.
How much oil passes any of these points depends on its actual viscosity (thickness) at the time it happens. EDIT: Just to be clear, this will happen when the oil is hot! Engine oil is like any other oil and thins with temperature. Engine oil is designed to resist this. Some do it better than others.
Why I mention this particularly is that the viscosity cannot be presumed from the number on the label. An x30 weight oil can be a higher weight (viscosity) than a x40 weight at operating temperature (and age). Trying to work this out (and all the other things that differentiate between good and better oils) can be a serious problem.
Almost certainly, with oils you get what you pay for.
Buy an expensive oil that meets the manufacturers specifications. This might sound like reckless advice but one thing is certain, a bargain oil will not turn out to be a clever buy, unless very lucky.
Do you really think manufacturers sell their best oils cheap?
Buy cheap wine if you want to look for bargains...
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the oil the dealers service dept is using is only a $35 for 5lts,everone else that has responded to my other thread has stated the oil that's being used in their motors is a $50-$60 for 5lts and they don't add 1ltr between oil changes. the dealers oil wasn't my choice,its what they use. :mad:
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the oil the dealers service dept is using is only a $35 for 5lts,everone else that has responded to my other thread has stated the oil that's being used in their motors is a $50-$60 for 5lts and they don't add 1ltr between oil changes. the dealers oil wasn't my choice,its what they use. :mad:
Take charge! Buy some good oil and use it to top-up from now. If you have no reason not to, take along a fresh pack of the same oil for your next service. Monitor, decide next move.
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just an update on the oil loss. i had my 15000km service a couple of weeks ago and the dealer used the usual oil he uses and Ive noticed that now the weather is a hell of a lot cooler the oil disappearance has stopped.I've been checking our oils weekly and found that when the temp in summer was 40c odd it was using oil but now its only 18c odd or colder the oil use has stopped.I'm still not happy with the oil the dealer uses and the next service our cars get I'm using my own oil. :exclaim: