i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => PETROL => Topic started by: yodm on December 18, 2016, 16:55:58
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hi all
just bought a 2010 cw 1.6 petrol auto transmission, with 200,000 km with no service records.
I downloaded the manual.
I could not find any information about the timing service for the 1.6 petrol. can I assume that it has a chain or direct transmission rather than belt?
what would you suggest to check and service?
at the price I got this car, I did not expect to get a service record...
the passenger window will not work. I can hear the relay clicking but the window will not move. any insights what to check?
thanks
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how can I know the type of spark plugs I have?
I talked to the local garage (not Hyundai service) and he said that in 2010 they switched the type of spark plugs.
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I would think they would use the Iridium plug that is standard with most fuel injected vehicles, the local garage could have taken one out for you to look at as it only takes 30 seconds to take out and replace one.
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window not working but relay still working,could be as simple as dirty tracking or motor mechanism,could just need a service if your handy with the workshop tools.
NGK G4FC plugs should do the job for you,or if you wish to go top end plugs go Denso Ididiom(but their expensive) NGK are a good all round plug,in my experience Bosch plugs are crap
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well, I took one plug out and it was Champion RER8MC equivalent to NGK LZKR6B-10E per NGK site.
I have very good experience with NGK with my bike, it wont run well on Denso.
air filter looks clean and pretty new, plugs looks heavily used.
plugs and air filter I can change myself, oil is more difficult without a lift.
I took the right door trim off, the window electric motor seems to work "up" (window is closed) but nothing when press down.
tomorrow I will go to a spare parts shop and get a new air filter and plugs.
something strange happen from time to time,
the engine will not start easily, when this happen, the ESP off light stays on. could be due to old fuel? or more like some sensor with intermittent readings?
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Check that your battery condition is OK or the connections to it are OK ...eg, corrosion. The ESP light will come on if you disconnect the battery . Drive it around a few corners. Light should be off next time you start.
I took the right door trim off, the window electric motor seems to work "up" (window is closed) but nothing when press down
From memory two wires go to the motor. Reversing the wires ( therefore polarity) will move the window up or down. That is the test.
You can hear the relay..ok; and I assume rear window on same side works up and down.???
The motor incorporates a pressure switch that automatically lowers the window if there is a jam.
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1.6p is indeed chain driven.
Does the window operate normally from either the driver master switch or the passenger door?
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no, the front passenger window will not open not from the driver master switch nor from the passenger side.
2 more questions
is there a way to dim the dash lights? couldn't find any.
water Is coming in to the spare wheel well when driving in the rain. there are some holes drilled for an automatic petrol pump transmitter, but are closed with RTV. is there another place from which the water can come in?
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The light dimmer is the roller control beside the ESP switch.
Window : remove door liner, motor can be unbolted without dismantling window mechanism. Test motor across battery as previously described.
Water in spare wheel well: :wacko: May be inevitable, depends on depth of the rain.
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the roller besides the ESP switch is for the headlights leveling.
I was not sure I could take the window motor off without dismantling the window mechanism
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Not all FD had the rheostat to adjust the illumination. Here's a how-to retrofit it. There's also link's to suppliers down the thread.
:link: Dashboard rheostat illumination control (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=11241.msg134340#msg134340)
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a quick google search found the answers for the EVAC valve, location and function.
the behavior of a faulty evac valve fit, except for the check engine light, I have the ESP off light.
will try and find it and look for a replacement.
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When I serviced Firty out of hibernation, the ESP OFF light was on no matter how much I pressed. It was off the next time I used her, though. :Dunno:
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Not all FD had the rheostat to adjust the illumination. Here's a how-to retrofit it. There's also link's to suppliers down the thread.
:link: Dashboard rheostat illumination control (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=11241.msg134340#msg134340)
Here in Australia we don't get the headlight leveling (except in Euro built tourer and 3 door) so Gary was assuming you would have the rheostat.
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When I serviced Firty out of hibernation, the ESP OFF light was on no matter how much I pressed. It was off the next time I used her, though. :Dunno:
Mate, Usually will right itself.
Lots of causes , some are not all that obvious.
Maybe add 'perceived desertion' to the list. :D
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evac valve fit,
Try the suck / blow test. Should not leak off the car.
Window motor is bolt-on and fits into a splined mechanism.
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will try the suck\blow test.
at work, I have a Helium Leak detector that will be grate for this, but I cannot enter the car into the clean room (type 10) and attach the dirty valve to the clean HLD.
so I can understand that I can take the electric window motor off without any issue.
I will check it.
thanks
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is there a crash gasket on the engine oil drain plug?
anyone have the Hyundai PN for the crash gasket and the oil filter for the 1.6 126 hp 2010 engine?
it will be a bit messy, to discover you ordered the wrong oil filter, only when you compare the old filter to the new one :head_knock:
you find these things the hard way, after taking the motorcycle chain off, you discover the kit contains the wrong chain link..... :Shocked:
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checked today, I have the wiring for the instrument light dimmer in place. will buy the dimmer.
could not find the evap valve :spitty: anyone got pictures of where it is located on the petrol 126 hp?
I searched the forums and understood that both low and high beams are H7.
took the headlight off today, and found out that I have the H7 for the low beam and the H1 for the high beam.
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My FD had H1 for high beam.
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My FD had H1 for high beam.
So do mine, but my owner manual say H7 for high beam... :disapp:
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could not find the evap valve :spitty: anyone got pictures of where it is located on the petrol 126 hp?
Most of our FD petrol are 2.0L. It is on the back of the motor - gearbox end. But should similar to Euro 1.6. Principal is to take off fuel tank gas, so look for a line running up the fire wall from the fuel tank to a black solenoid/valve.
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some updates on the issues I had.
the passenger window not working: bought a new switch block from Koraps, the driver block and a sub switch, replaced the driver block and guess what??? :crazy1: the passenger window is working!!!!
but when tried to replace the passenger sub switch, I discovered that there are 2 types of sub switches, rear and front!, I bought the rear sub switch, :Shocked:
the right pn for the front sub switch is: 93575-2L011 (FD model)
the issue with hard starting resolved after replacing the crank shaft position sensor by a non Hyundai service. did it on the spot. took less than 10 minutes.
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:goodjob:
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Thanks for the update yodm. Good to hear.
Sent from my SM-T805Y using Tapatalk
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Appreciate the update. Happy motoring. :goodjob: