i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => GENERAL => Topic started by: pidim on September 22, 2017, 23:10:22
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Okay, so I’m tapping this out while waiting for my wife’s Accent to be serviced for its 2 year service (with only 16000km).
I get a call from the workshop that their records show that this model needs a brake fluid at the 2 year mark. I questioned why this was necessary so soon and given it has such low k’s.
He reckons the viscosity deteriorates on this model. I told him I find that hard to understand so I asked him not to do this.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this or was I being lined up for a stitch upsell?
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Okay, so I’m tapping this out while waiting for my wife’s Accent to be serviced for its 2 year service (with only 16000km).
I get a call from the workshop that their records show that this model needs a brake fluid at the 2 year mark. I questioned why this was necessary so soon and given it has such low k’s.
He reckons the viscosity deteriorates on this model. I told him I find that hard to understand so I asked him not to do this.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this or was I being lined up for a stitch upsell?
Can't see why the car model would have anything to do with the deterioration of the brake fluid viscosity.
Unless there's some fault in the design which lets moisture in more rapidly. Which of course is rubbish.
Or if the brakes ran at constant high pressures (another design fault?)
My daughter's Accent is just coming up to five years old. Brake fluid is fine, despite spending a year in Darwin humidity. Our service agent has an electronic tester.
Edit. I DID replace the brake fluid in my i30 at 3 years - simply because I was still working and we were slow in the workshop that day.
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Brake fluid sucks moisture out of the air. It wears down even if you don't drive the car. In my opinion saving money on the brake fluid change is wrong place to do it.
After all, brake fluid is the most important fluid in the car...
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Brake fluid sucks moisture out of the air. It wears down even if you don't drive the car. In my opinion saving money on the brake fluid change is wrong place to do it.
After all, brake fluid is the most important fluid in the car...
Having driven competition cars for more than 20 years, I totally agree with you. But it can be tested these days. My point was that for the dealer to suggest that "the viscosity deteriorates on this model" is (IMHO) blatantly misleading.
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Brake fluid sucks moisture out of the air. It wears down even if you don't drive the car. In my opinion saving money on the brake fluid change is wrong place to do it.
After all, brake fluid is the most important fluid in the car...
That may be the case, but I think a car with only 15900 kms would not need it yet. The same dealer has never suggested this in the 5yrs I have been servicing my i30 there.
I really believe it’s a try on and they probably would not have changed anything.
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Brake fluid sucks moisture out of the air. It wears down even if you don't drive the car. In my opinion saving money on the brake fluid change is wrong place to do it.
After all, brake fluid is the most important fluid in the car...
Having driven competition cars for more than 20 years, I totally agree with you. But it can be tested these days. My point was that for the dealer to suggest that "the viscosity deteriorates on this model" is (IMHO) blatantly misleading.
I agree with both of you. An easy counter to the assertions by the dealer is buy a test pen on ebay for $6 and periodically check the moisture content. Can do the same thing if you have a multimeter.
Heat from braking can cause viscosity change ( not on this low K's car). A mate races a Ducati and changes the brake fluid after each meeting. Says it gives him 20 sec better time at the next race.
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Brake fluid sucks moisture out of the air. It wears down even if you don't drive the car. In my opinion saving money on the brake fluid change is wrong place to do it.
After all, brake fluid is the most important fluid in the car...
Having driven competition cars for more than 20 years, I totally agree with you. But it can be tested these days. My point was that for the dealer to suggest that "the viscosity deteriorates on this model" is (IMHO) blatantly misleading.
I agree with both of you. An easy counter to the assertions by the dealer is buy a test pen on ebay for $6 and periodically check the moisture content. Can do the same thing if you have a multimeter.
Heat from braking can cause viscosity change ( not on this low K's car). A mate races a Ducati and changes the brake fluid after each meeting. Says it gives him 20 sec better time at the next race.
20 seconds/ lap????????? What's he racing around the Isle of Man?
:) :goodjob2: Fixed
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Okay, so I’m tapping this out while waiting for my wife’s Accent to be serviced for its 2 year service (with only 16000km).
I get a call from the workshop that their records show that this model needs a brake fluid at the 2 year mark. I questioned why this was necessary so soon and given it has such low k’s.
He reckons the viscosity deteriorates on this model. I told him I find that hard to understand so I asked him not to do this.
Does anyone have any thoughts on this or was I being lined up for a stitch upsell?
Be worth googling hyundai accent brake fluid change and a few other combinations regarding frequency of brake fluid change in hyundai accent etc.. just to see if anything comes up. I think it's probably a try on, but be interested to see if anything comes up about it on the net. Which it would if it was an issue.
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Does the manual mention anything about when brake fluid should be changed on that model? my last service "4 year" had the brake fluid changed as recommended in the manual.
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Does the manual mention anything about when brake fluid should be changed on that model? my last service "4 year" had the brake fluid changed as recommended in the manual.
I'll check my daughter's owners' manual later.
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Checked from 15,000 up to 75,000.
Each simply says, *Inspect brake/ clutch (if equipped) fluid.
Nowhere else where it mentions brake fluid does it suggest a time or distance period for replacement.
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Yep same. Checked manual and no such job shown.
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:link: Brake fluid - Wikipedia (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid)
"Most automotive professionals agree that glycol-based brake fluid, (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1) should be flushed, or changed, every 1–2 years under non-racing conditions."
Brakefluids are quite cheap and changing it is an easy diy job to do, especially if you have someone help with the pedal while you work with the bleed valve (unless you have modern car with automatic braking systems). The brake system will probably work fine several years without fluid change, but if the moisture starts to rust the brake system from the inside, then it will be a more expensive job.
I'd rather drive a car with bad engine oil than a car with bad brake fluid.
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Without checking sure the service schedule say change at 2 years abd 2 years thereafter.
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I changed brake and clutch fluids in 4th year of owning and having 47.000Km.
I went to a friend mechanic and the cost of fluids for the i30 gd was 8euros (dot 4)
and didn't took me nothing for the change although he change them professionally
(removed all tyres removed all previous fluids etc).
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My Wife's i10 owners manual says brake fluid change every 2 years, haven't checked my i30
When working @ VW/Skoda the requirement was also every 2 year, no matter milage. This applied all models.
If you want to just test the fluid, do it at the brake caliper, as the fluid in the reservoir always will be the most "fresh" fluid... :cool:
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If you want to just test the fluid, do it at the brake caliper, as the fluid in the reservoir always will be the most "fresh" fluid... :cool:
The fluid at the calliper will be the most affected by heat. Given that it is a sealed system, the moisture content should be constant throughout, save for the reservoir which can be opened to the air. :cool: er
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I try and change mine every two years regardless of distance or at worst whenever I do pads.
Wait until they charge you for it if it's scheduled but don't actually do it! Mitsubishi dealer tried that one on me a couple of decades ago.
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That's why a cheap ebay tester ( a whole $6) is a worthy aid for that rare handyman who can lift a bonnet.
Its usual to check moisture content when doing an RWC these days. Also transport dept. have supplied electronic brake function testers to workshops so the % of deceleration cant be fudged..... except most of us figured out how to beat it after a few days use. :whistler:
Still use them , but its our essential pi$$ov a public servant attitude. :mrgreen:
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So for something that is clearly a safety issue according to this thread, why don’t Hyundai even include in ANY service schedule on both i30 and Accent?
... and why do they call it an “optional” (according to my stealer) task if the customer agrees to go ahead with it?
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Hi pidim,
Our GD and a borrowed FD both say "R" every 2 years.
Its not only Hyundai, blokes at work with Toyota's, Holdens & Ford's have all fell foul to this .
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As Mick says, it is a replacement issue. They will err on the side of caution given average driven KMs per year.
However , I have just bought a 2011 i30 that has only done 24,000Km. The fluid in that car is as new regarding water content..
NOTE; I tested it with my $6 pen . :eek: It was tough, but I managed. :whistler:
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This is one of those items which capped price servicing has killed,
I agree with most every 2 years seems about right, but not surprising if you are with a cap price service ( fixed price) it's only a inspection and during those inspections it always pass, but as soon as you are outside of the fixed price period it will desperately require replacement and suitable invoiced for,
I notice in the service manual that the pollen filter should be replace every service, however they only inspect during the period of cap price serving, so really it's just a case of who is paying for it rather than if it requires replace or not
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This is one of those items which capped price servicing has killed,
I agree with most every 2 years seems about right, but not surprising if you are with a cap price service ( fixed price) it's only a inspection and during those inspections it always pass, but as soon as you are outside of the fixed price period it will desperately require replacement and suitable invoiced for,
I notice in the service manual that the pollen filter should be replace every service, however they only inspect during the period of cap price serving, so really it's just a case of who is paying for it rather than if it requires replace or not
I think you might be right Joe, unfortunately.
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This is one of those items which capped price servicing has killed,
I agree with most every 2 years seems about right, but not surprising if you are with a cap price service ( fixed price) it's only a inspection and during those inspections it always pass, but as soon as you are outside of the fixed price period it will desperately require replacement and suitable invoiced for,
I notice in the service manual that the pollen filter should be replace every service, however they only inspect during the period of cap price serving, so really it's just a case of who is paying for it rather than if it requires replace or not
I think you might be right Joe, unfortunately.
Definitely.
And i can report that Toyota with its fixed price servicing is the same.
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This is one of those items which capped price servicing has killed,
It seems we are all in agreement, it is unreasonable especially when it is an acknowledged safety issue.
BUT
So for something that is clearly a safety issue according to this thread, why don’t Hyundai ...
... and why do they call it an “optional” ...?
... and why don't owners check the fluid THEMSELVES? Do they check tyre wear anymore?
Is staying alive too complicated? :crazy1: