i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: naser_1998x on December 13, 2017, 14:16:24
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Hey guys,
Say you did a complete flush of your cooling system and poured new fluid. But then later you find out that you have air in your system, how would you go on about removing that air? Some people say that there is a place near the thermostat were there is a little screw which you unbolt and fill radiator up to the top, then once coolant starts coming out you start the car up and the air gets removed. But we only have coolant reservoir on the i30 2011 (FD)?
Many thanks!
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Run the vehicle from cold with heater on and radiator cap off for a few minutes watching water level, add more fluid if level drops as air is purged, replace cap and check level again after a short drive and engine has cooled.
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Is it honestly as simple as that? :scared:
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I don't think there's anything more to it. The cooling system is pressurised through the thermostat to prevent boiling, since boiling point rises with rising pressure, and a pure fluid such as water boils sooner - another reason we all use coolant - but steam can still form, which is a gas, so an air pocket is nothing strange and the system is designed to expel it when needed. So just fill up as needed as the coolant circulates as Craig describes.
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It's just that people on youtube make it sooo complicated :rofl: . By the way, craig said that I should replace the cap is that a must?
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craig said that I should replace the cap is that a must?
If you wish to put it back on, then yes.
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Wait sorry... why? My cap is clean from inside and out
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REPLACE your clean in and out cap where you got it from i.e. Put it back :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
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Hey guys,
Say you did a complete flush of your cooling system and poured new fluid. But then later you find out that you have air in your system, how would you go on about removing that air? Some people say that there is a place near the thermostat were there is a little screw which you unbolt and fill radiator up to the top, then once coolant starts coming out you start the car up and the air gets removed. But we only have coolant reservoir on the i30 2011 (FD)?
Many thanks!
Just run the engine and as the temp rises and thermo opens water will circulate into all parts of the system.
Top up to desired level.
Ps
Put heating on as to ensure all is ok.
Ps
Keep warm!
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Sorry haha :crazy1: :crazy1: :crazy1: :crazy1: that was very stupid of me. By the way have you guys ever used Prestone flush and cleaner? Is it good?
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Hey guys,
Say you did a complete flush of your cooling system and poured new fluid. But then later you find out that you have air in your system, how would you go on about removing that air? Some people say that there is a place near the thermostat were there is a little screw which you unbolt and fill radiator up to the top, then once coolant starts coming out you start the car up and the air gets removed. But we only have coolant reservoir on the i30 2011 (FD)?
Many thanks!
Just run the engine and as the temp rises and thermo opens water will circulate into all parts of the system.
Top up to desired level.
Ps
Put heating on as to ensure all is ok.
Ps
Keep warm!
Keep warm he says, looking at 40c here today :sweating: :sweating:
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Lucky! UK is full of rain :blubber: :blubber: :blubber:
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If I remember correctly, in the service manual they say to heat up the engine three times to operating temp and air should be out. So monitor the coolant level few days after change. I like to press the upper coolant hose from thermostat when thermostart starts opening. It makes the air come out little bit faster. You can feel it in your hands when warm coolant starts to fill the empty hose.
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Should we be using the green or orange coolant? Sorry I'll be buying a service manual soon
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By the way, craig said that I should replace the cap is that a must?
Yes, especially before driving :eek: unless you'd like your new fluid all over the ground and an empty radiator :faint:
Make sure the overflow has the right amount/level of fluid also.
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:rofl: :rofl: Come on! I interpreted as purchase a new cap, of course you have to put the cap back on
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Just making sure :)
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I know this is off topic but I am buying the service manual today. So am I right in thinking that the book will contain belt routings, type of anti-freeze to use and the service schedules? Or is that shop manual?
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Relax, even the clever f*****rs get it wrong sometimes :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
I'm pretty sure there is a downloadable workshop manual/owners manual somewhere hereabouts.
Just make a polite enquiry someone may be able to direct you along the right path.
Good luck :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
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I know this is off topic but I am buying the service manual today. So am I right in thinking that the book will contain belt routings, type of anti-freeze to use and the service schedules? Or is that shop manual?
Owners manual will contain fluid and oil specifications, I'd think a workshop manual would explain the belt routing...drawing a simple diagram or photo of your belt before re-placing is recommended.
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I don't think there's anything more to it. The cooling system is pressurised through the thermostat to prevent boiling, since boiling point rises with rising pressure, and a pure fluid such as water boils sooner - another reason we all use coolant - but steam can still form, which is a gas, so an air pocket is nothing strange and the system is designed to expel it when needed. So just fill up as needed as the coolant circulates as Craig describes.
:goodjob2:
Just to add to the above; the coolant will not drain into the engine easily until the engine is warm and the thermostat opens. So filling a cold engine can take a long time.
The "cap" :whistler: provides essential pressure to the system . This raises the boiling point of the coolant. eg a faulty cap = lots of steam.
Sorry to mention the cap :scared: again :crazy1: :head_knock:
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Re cap.
My son had an issue many years ago with his first car.
The temp never got to normal and he would be topping up.
He went to, i think 3 garages and no joy.
By chance he mentioned to me and i went and had a look.
Took it out for a spin to get temp up, opened bonnet, could see cap was faulty as slight hiss from it so called at motor shop on way home.
Bought new cap and replaced.
Perfect...........
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I know this is off topic but I am buying the service manual today. So am I right in thinking that the book will contain belt routings, type of anti-freeze to use and the service schedules? Or is that shop manual?
When I last looked all workshop manuals only covered the petrol motor not CRDi. You can download a massive file but , with respect, it will be of little value to you at this stage. Fluids and schedules are in your owners handbook or online.
Belt routings are on this site. I recently added a photo for the FD diesel.
Learn to use our search engine and you will find most everything is covered.
As you have discovered , Facebook and many other sites are full of utter cr$p peddled by tosspots who have never even held a spanner. Most of it is from guys who are repeating some drivel that other dicks keep reposting.
We are not immune from vacuous drivel, but we also have a good bunch of practical members who can eventually sort any issue.
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:rofl: :rofl: Come on! I interpreted as purchase a new cap, of course you have to put the cap back on
I was wondering how long it would take to get this clarified, but didn't want to spoil the comedy. :rofl:
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:rofl: :rofl: Come on! I interpreted as purchase a new cap, of course you have to put the cap back on
I was wondering how long it would take to get this clarified, but didn't want to spoil the comedy. :rofl:
I must admit I have had a bit of a laugh with all this ( say's I with cap in hand ) :snigger: