The Original i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: munro7389 on July 28, 2018, 22:49:24
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Hi, I have recently had to replace my engine as it had seized up. My car and old motor is September 2007 diesel. The engine I bought and replaced it with was an 09 model. Which run a different fuel injector rail. So when the new motor was In there was a plug left over for the fuel pressure regulator from my old engine. Do the car won't start. Does anyone have a solution on how to either bypass the fuel pressure regulator (as the new one doesn't have one) so the ECU isn't trying to read it? Or get rid of the fuel pressure regulator plug all together?
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Hi, I have recently had to replace my engine as it had seized up. My car and old motor is September 2007 diesel. The engine I bought and replaced it with was an 09 model. Which run a different fuel injector rail. So when the new motor was In there was a plug left over for the fuel pressure regulator from my old engine. Do the car won't start. Does anyone have a solution on how to either bypass the fuel pressure regulator (as the new one doesn't have one) so the ECU isn't trying to read it? Or get rid of the fuel pressure regulator plug all together?
Amazing, you're the 2nd person to do this , this year. I'll see if i can find that post for you doing a SEARCH.
I would consider swapping the old motor hardware to the new engine it that area.
How did it seize? Did the turbo fail? What Kilometres? Curious
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there we go, in no time at all. :scared:
:link: i30 1.6 CRDi FB AU engine (2010) into a 2008 i30 (https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=49833.msg460462#msg460462)
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Timing chain snapped. Had 345,000kms so got good use.
The car the new motor come out of is an auto also the engine was purchased from a wreckers.
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Timing chain snapped. Had 345,000kms so got good use.
The car the new motor come out of is an auto also the engine was purchased from a wreckers.
Ouch, much warning? I got a 388000K example manual, turbo already gone, replaced , chain is a little rattly cold first up.
And I um, well, drive it spiritly. Do have a spare auto myself not as many as gary though, @nzenigma :lol: :whistler: :mrgreen:
Oh , note the return line hose is also slightly different and injector coding, where in QLD are you?
And gary and I were checking out that extra thingy that ol mate in VIC mentioned, think it's a heater of some type
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Yeah mine didn't have the extra plug that he eventually had. But I only had 1 plug left over and that was the fuel pressure regulator as I used my old look. Wreckers cut the old one. Will the return lines plumb up if I use my old rail on the newer engine? I'm in the gold coast. I damaged the old rail unfortunately it's super hard to find an early 08 rail. Hyundai wanted $3000 for a new one. Joke I thought.
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Yeah mine didn't have the extra plug that he eventually had. But I only had 1 plug left over and that was the fuel pressure regulator as I used my old look. Wreckers cut the old one. Will the return lines plumb up if I use my old rail on the newer engine? I'm in the gold coast. I damaged the old rail unfortunately it's super hard to find an early 08 rail. Hyundai wanted $3000 for a new one. Joke I thought.
I think and I'm guessing but it makes sense that the junction on the older model is just a mounting point on th erail and 2 differing hoses. On the later one it's one piece and routes straight back to wherever the other goes.
So appears you could use the old rail but route the new return line of the newer motor. All untried for me.
I'd love to help more but today i must reunite with the flock at redland bay this morning.
(https://images.ilcats.ru/getImage.php?catalog=hyundai&filename=KAUSPJD0/31313C11.png&hash=0da168fc3066256ec06e2630caeea8db)
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314002A410
(https://www.bildelsbasen.se/img/370/a/a/efb91f/path/mnt/newftp/69/bil/lgnr/584575_1.jpg/hyundai_i30_2008_spridarr%EF%BF%BDr.jpg)
:link: Auto Part Item View : 314002A410 (31400-2A410) RAIL ASSY-FUEL for HYUNDAI / KIA SPECTRA CERATO 04-08 (http://www.koraps.com/shop/item.php?it_id=1066405)
probably about a grand from korea not economic for this age vehicle.
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:link: Hyundai Getz Einspritzleiste Verteilerrohr Kraftstoff 31400-2A410 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hyundai-Getz-Einspritzleiste-Verteilerrohr-Kraftstoff-31400-2A410/121514931005?hash=item1c4adab33d%3Ag%3AWWIAAOSwofxUiabv&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=31400-2A410&_from=R40&rt=nc)
:link: 2009 Kia Ceed 1.6 Diesel Fuel Injection Rail With Sensors 0445214111 31400-2A410 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2009-Kia-Ceed-1-6-Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Rail-With-Sensors-0445214111-31400-2A410/302776862007?epid=655484249&hash=item467ee84537%3Ag%3AhFYAAOSwl99bKMlx&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=31400-2A410&_from=R40&rt=nc)
:link: id381459: 0445214111 31400-2A410 0281002507 Kia Ceed Fuel injector rail (injec | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/id381459-0445214111-31400-2A410-0281002507-Kia-Ceed-Fuel-injector-rail-injec/123182395276?hash=item1cae3e2f8c%3Ag%3ArqoAAOSwQGhbHVqE&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=31400-2A410&_from=R40&rt=nc)
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replaced it with an 09 model which runs a different fuel injector rail. When the new motor was [installed] there was a plug left over for the fuel pressure regulator from my old engine.
Where is/was the pressure regulator situated in the 07 setup?
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replaced it with an 09 model which runs a different fuel injector rail. When the new motor was [installed] there was a plug left over for the fuel pressure regulator from my old engine.
Where is/was the pressure regulator situated in the 07 setup?
look at the image I posted. The big thing on the end. If you check out your stock you should see the difference ;)
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Reg on pump
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Reg on pump
I don't think he's on about the pump. It's the rail.
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That's why I was trying to clarify some points in his first post.
I assumed that your images = what he had on the 2007.
Now he will have a pressure regulator on the top of the 2009 fuel pump. " Wreckers cut the old one." may mean he has no plug that will fit it.
You cant run with a bypassed regulator, as he suggests, so I would find the correct plug and swap it for the 2007 plug. Plug into the 2009 fuel pump and hope. :undecided:
The 2007 ECU may function ok with this configuration.
While the next solution is to go back to a 2007 rail, he will still have to get the new pump to play old too.
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I looked into it and it appears that the 2008 up has a built-in fuel pressure regulator meaning there is no where for my plug to go. I've repaired my old rail. Going to plumb up the fuel lines and see how I go after that.
Just hope it all goes smoothly
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Good luck. let us know the results. :)
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Same problem ? :whistler:
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/pimpama/wrecking/hyundai-i30-turbo-diesel-09-2007-wrecking-all-parts-or-for-sale/1192212883 (https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/pimpama/wrecking/hyundai-i30-turbo-diesel-09-2007-wrecking-all-parts-or-for-sale/1192212883)
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So I returned the incorrect engine. Hopefully get a refund.
Just got another issue now. Does the manual gearbox/engjne have the bellhousing separator plate on it or is it just the auto transmission? I can't remember if it had one on my car originally and I think I retured the spacer plate with the did engine.
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(https://static.baza.farpost.ru/drom/1528661802213_bulletin)
4311723300
That is for the U version manual, both 5 & 6 speed
Auto is showing no plate.
The U2 motor is a different part number again
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This one is in Brisbane.
:link: HYUNDAI I30 ENGINE DIESEL, 1.6, D4FB, TURBO, FD, ALLOY INTAKE, 09/07-03/11 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HYUNDAI-I30-ENGINE-DIESEL-1-6-D4FB-TURBO-FD-ALLOY-INTAKE-09-07-03-11/132728968735?hash=item1ee743561f:g:qkAAAOSwGL1bY-Dp)
Jan 2008 so is the same configuration except Auto. You can see no plate for Auto, but more importantly correct fuel rail version.
Good ks, good price
VIN KMHDB51TR8U072359
matching engine number should be : D4FB8U490583, difficult to locate on these.
Vehicle images match VIN
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/QFEAAOSwMSZbY-Dk/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2YkAAOSwiq9bY-Do/s-l1600.jpg)
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I just purchased a motor delivered from the sunshine coast for $550
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Fair enough. How many K's? Worked out the plate issue?
Just found this one. Probably around the same cost for anyone else looking for the early variant.
:link: CHEAP PARTS HYUNDAI I 30 2008 D4FB 1.6 LT DIESEL WRECKING | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHEAP-PARTS-HYUNDAI-I-30-2008-D4FB-1-6-LT-DIESEL-WRECKING/142906391214?hash=item2145e27aae:g:oH0AAOSwoJ1a3dNe)
143000K $400
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UiMAAOSwZula3dNb/s-l1600.jpg)
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65,000 kms. Not yet. This was an auto. So I'm going to have to wait until tomorrow and collect my original plate from the wreckers
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65,000 kms. Not yet. This was an auto. So I'm going to have to wait until tomorrow and collect my original plate from the wreckers
:brilliant: Bet you're glad you only have to go through this every 400000K :Touch: :mrgreen:
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I returned the incorrect engine. Hopefully get a refund.
Just got another issue now. Does the manual gearbox/engjne have the bellhousing separator plate on it or is it just the auto transmission? I can't remember if it had one on my car originally and I think I retured the spacer plate with the did engine.
I have a 2009 and 2010 motor both came from a manual and they did not have a spacer, so you should be good to go.
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I returned the incorrect engine. Hopefully get a refund.
Just got another issue now. Does the manual gearbox/engjne have the bellhousing separator plate on it or is it just the auto transmission? I can't remember if it had one on my car originally and I think I retured the spacer plate with the did engine.
I have a 2009 and 2010 motor both came from a manual and they did not have a spacer, so you should be good to go.
life would boring if we all agreed. :Pout: j
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I have a 2009 and 2010 motor both came from a manual and they did not have a spacer, so you should be good to go.
life would boring if we all agreed. :Pout: j
[/quote]
:undecided: I think we do agree, because my motors are not U2.
I wonder how many years Gus (Caloundra HY wreck ) has been waiting to sell a 2007 motor.?
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I have a 2009 and 2010 motor both came from a manual and they did not have a spacer, so you should be good to go.
life would boring if we all agreed. :Pout: j
:undecided: I think we do agree, because my motors are not U2.
I wonder how many years Gus (Caloundra HY wreck ) has been waiting to sell a 2007 motor.?
[/quote] I dunno but I get the impression some are not aware of that change early on. At least one wrecker avertised his early D4FB as suitable for all models
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Suspect most wont. I haven't seen many 2007 models, most wreckers will probably never have to think about it.
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Suspect most wont. I haven't seen many 2007 models, most wreckers will probably never have to think about it.
Yeah they'd be pretty scarce! Only released in Sep 2007 and very limited numbers delivered in Australia until Feb/March 2008 when we got our first one (SLX CRDi Manual) :happydance:
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The 'i30 sports turbo' as I call them. I still think they are a lot of fun :happydance:
Although more fun than that this morning...down to the end of the street - 0 to 60kph in 2.8 seconds. :scared:
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The 'i30 sports turbo' as I call them. I still think they are a lot of fun :happydance:
Although more fun than that this morning...down to the end of the street - 0 to 60kph in 2.8 seconds. :scared:
I'm guessing that was in the Z3? :happydance:
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I wish! :cool:
A V6 Golf 650 bhp. about 2 sec. later (judging by the burr) we were at about 100kph but fast running out of road.
apparently they are getting these Golfs up 1300bhp and to nearly Veyron speeds.
This car has all wheel drive on demand so it doesn't have the torque steer problem that your mate's Skoda had/has.
:happydance:
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I wish! :cool:
A V6 Golf 650 bhp. about 2 sec. later (judging by the burr) we were at about 100kph but fast running out of road.
apparently they are getting these Golfs up 1300bhp and to nearly Veyron speeds.
This car has all wheel drive on demand so it doesn't have the torque steer problem that your mate's Skoda had/has.
:happydance:
Nice! I nearly bought a VW (jacket) from an OP Shop te other day... Real flash and only $6, but too small! :Pout:
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New engine is in. Now won't start. Turns over. Sounds like it wants to kick
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New engine is in. Now won't start. Turns over. Sounds like it wants to kick
I have to ask the obvious just in case, have you used the primer plunger to prime the lines?
Glow cct ok? all connected , nothing bent and earthed out like the busbar, fusible link ok?
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New engine is in. Now won't start. Turns over. Sounds like it wants to kick
I have to ask the obvious just in case, have you used the primer plunger to prime the lines?
Glow cct ok? all connected , nothing bent and earthed out like the busbar, fusible link ok?
Interpreting wants to start ????? :undecided: is it firing occasionally?
If so, electrics are probably ok, Go back to fuel lines and make sure pump is primed as Tw has advised
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It fires for a quick sec then stops I assume that I am priming the pump right by pressing until goes hard and then try to start and then pump it again and continue that process.
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It fires for a quick sec then stops I assume that I am priming the pump right by pressing until goes hard and then try to start and then pump it again and continue that process.
Sounds about right, only ever done it once, took a bit to get it running again.
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It now runs thanks. Just needed more priming. But it will only run when a little vacuum hose is disconnected. On the end off the inlet manifold That little valve keeps shutting. Any idea?
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Wild card guess, solenoid with vacumn lines above oil filter, is that connected? I don't have my manuals to look deeper @nzenigma may be able to dig on this one. yes that's the anti- studder or run-on valve so the engine shuts down cleanly for want of better words
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It now runs thanks. Just needed more priming. But it will only run when a little vacuum hose is disconnected. On the end off the inlet manifold That little valve keeps shutting. Any idea?
As you have discovered (re Gumtree) I am psychic, however, I'm at a loss :phone1: so could you send photo of your little valve .
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It now runs thanks. Just needed more priming. But it will only run when a little vacuum hose is disconnected. On the end off the inlet manifold That little valve keeps shutting. Any idea?
As you have discovered (re Gumtree) I am psychic, however, I'm at a loss :phone1: so could you send photo of your little valve .
Diaphram that sits on the side of the TB, can't miss it. Open when running but is closed at shutdown to choke engine. similar to this
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/s8EAAOSwJ7RYSPj-/s-l1600.jpg)
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hardly a little valve so I wait. Think he needs to crack a line to get rid of air.
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It won't let me add a pic. Bit yes that is it in your pic
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definitely connected to that solenoid controlled vacuum valve.
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/e_7YaHQ3F5o/maxresdefault.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MdMAAOSwHnFVzChr/s-l300.jpg)
I think that's the one, has electrical connection too.
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Forget about it. Loosen the fuel line going to the rail . Prime HP pump using filter primer. Turn motor over to push any air out. Tighten, It should eventually fire up.
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check the one tw has put up , make sure no inlet is broken. Could be stuffed if car has been in a head on.
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Forget about it. Loosen the fuel line going to the rail . Prime HP pump using filter primer. Turn motor over to push any air out. Tighten, It should eventually fire up.
Motor is alreading running, just that shut down flap he needs to figure out, can't do any more unless we see what is presently connected or as you say hidden damage from accident.
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So car drives (with not much power). The brakes are very stiff and don't stop the car very well. It will only start with with the EGR valve sensor unplugged or the vacuum hose disconnected. I have my old one with the solenoid. I'll try that.
So issues I have now are the flap closes up when everything is connected and don't have much brakes. Note. I did take off the hose to the brake booster.
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So car drives (with not much power). The brakes are very stiff and don't stop the car very well. It will only start with with the EGR valve sensor unplugged or the vacuum hose disconnected. I have my old one with the solenoid. I'll try that.
So issues I have now are the flap closes up when everything is connected and don't have much brakes. Note. I did take off the hose to the brake booster.
did you put it back on! No vac line to booster equals no power assisted brakes, could be part of the other issue too?
:crazy1:
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The turbo is also variable vane and vacuum driven so there's a common denominator here. vacuum, vacuum lines.
maybe some lines are crossed up? but you need vacuum for brake boost, vacuum for that intake flap, vacuum for the turbo vane adjustment.
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(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/lzIAAOSwrhhaDDLr/s-l1600.jpg)
This is the vacuum pump, sits on the end of the head and in front of that junction where the brake booster hose goes to the mounted junction.
check the connections and see if anything is missing
(https://images.ilcats.ru/getImage.php?catalog=hyundai&filename=KAUSPJD0/2828811.png&hash=47bafebfc03b89f4ebcb1d522ce9a7d7)
(https://images.ilcats.ru/getImage.php?catalog=hyundai&filename=KAUSPJD0/28283C11.png&hash=d739bdcb31df3aefc6b3bdae12e013a4)
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(https://images.ilcats.ru/getImage.php?catalog=hyundai&filename=KAUSPJD0/28285C11.png&hash=98f99d2fb6d0e5ec65628a539bffb3f6)
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Well it won't start with it on. Otherwise I have to unplug the sensor on top of the EGR valve.
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The turbo is also variable vane and vacuum driven so there's a common denominator here. vacuum, vacuum lines.
maybe some lines are crossed up? but you need vacuum for brake boost, vacuum for that intake flap, vacuum for the turbo vane adjustment.
exactly. this new brake failure has to tell you that you have lost vacuum. :crazy1: :wacko:
The car will barely pull up the driveway if the turbo is not functioning=vacuum loss .
Look for vacuum lines that are crossed cracked split not fitting the correct connection. Look for plastic connectors that have been snapped off. The valve I told you to check has three connections from memory, one is a bit hidden.
, if motor is running you should detect vacuum from pump, do you?
if the above is functioning ok, you MUST be able to hear a leak. Use a rubber hose to your ear.
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The replacement motor is an auto and my car is a manual if that makes a difference.
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The replacement motor is an auto and my car is a manual if that makes a difference.
No difference. Follow my advice carefully , it is easy to miss a leak. After you establish that you DO HAVE VACUUM make the hose stethoscope and listen for the leak.
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Only difference I could spot was the routing of the intercooler piping, you're going to have to be deliberate and thorough checking every connection, every hose every harness. There's another electrically operated vac line near that other that controls the turbo geometry.
(https://images.ilcats.ru/getImage.php?catalog=hyundai&filename=KAUSPJD0/3939411.png&hash=03ee6f615a198741137558b2fb234f18)
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(https://images.ilcats.ru/getImage.php?catalog=hyundai&filename=KAUSPJD0/28282C12.png&hash=e44d1a085621853f1055f8d36ca92e72)
(https://images.ilcats.ru/getImage.php?catalog=hyundai&filename=KAUSPJD0/28282C11.png&hash=1a101b1cdb2065262eed7e3bfbbf6d77)
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All sorted. I had the 2 plugs around the wrong way. The grey and black ones on the solenoid lol. Silly me. Runs like a dream. Thanks
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:goodjob2: Glad its sorted.
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Awesome great result! Thanks heaps to our amazing tag team for all their comments and support. :goodjob2: :goodjob:
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All sorted. Runs like a dream. Thanks
FABULOUS news!!!
Well done...
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About time. :head_knock: glad you got there. Lessons to be learnt. I use my phone a lot these days to capture original configuration. Especially on a project that may stretch over weeks. :faint:
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Until the clutch just started slipping...frustrating. I used that spacer plate for the gearbox and bell housing too if that makes a difference. Clutch is only 6 months old
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Until the clutch just started slipping...frustrating. I used that spacer plate for the gearbox and bell housing too if that makes a difference. Clutch is only 6 months old
this may help :link: Injector rail problem for engine replacement from 09/07 to a 2009 engine (https://i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=50683.msg466403#msg466403)
:crazy2:
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Will that make a difference on how the clutch operates?
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yes in theory, pedal travel, cause slipping? probably not
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The plate has nothing to do with it. Mine has the plate as yours would have too. Slipping is related to clamping pressure between the pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel surface and condition of those parts..
If the clutch was 100% ok and now not, what has changed?
Can you describe the actions and what is happening. How is it slipping? DO you release and it just slips, you release and it slips then eventually grabs, do you release and it grabs but slips under high torque loads?
I'm likely not going to have a solution but some more information may provide clues?
Were the surfaces contaminated during remove and install?
Was it reassembled exactly how it was?
Is there any free play at the slave / releasing fully?
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Mine has the plate as yours would have too.
:undecided: ??? on the manual or auto? I Have one on 2.0L auto but not on two diesel manuals. Not that it matters as you say.
Until the clutch just started slipping...frustrating. Clutch is only 6 months old
Its was ok then started to fail. Oil leaking onto plate. Forgot to tighten Pressure plate bolts.
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Mine has the plate as yours would have too.
:undecided: ??? on the manual or auto? I Have one on 2.0L auto but not on two diesel manuals. Not that it matters as you say.
Until the clutch just started slipping...frustrating. Clutch is only 6 months old
Its was ok then started to fail. Oil leaking onto plate. Forgot to tighten Pressure plate bolts.
April 2008 SX 5spd manual FD CRDi , same production version.
Are we safe in assuming the pressure plate bolts were torqued up?
Clutch slips
Insufficient clutch pedal free play
Adjust the pedal free play
Clogged of the hydraulic system
Repair or replace parts
Clutch disc lining oily or worn out
Inspect the clutch disc
Faulty pressure plate
Replace the clutch cover
............................................................................... ..............
Clutch slipping
● Car will not respond to engine speed during acceleration
● Insufficient vehicle speed
● Lack of power during uphill driving
Insufficient pedal free play
Adjust
Clogged hydraulic system
Correct or replace parts
Excessive wear of clutch disc facing
Replace
Hardened clutch disc facing, or oil on surface
Replace
Damaged pressure plate or flywheel
Replace
Weak or broken pressure spring
Replace
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Think I'm muddled , I',ve removed reference to pull type.
(https://preview.ibb.co/fGtp3U/clutch.jpg) (https://ibb.co/eiHGiU)
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Don't think anything has changed. But only thing I can think of is it was an auto engine b4 hand. When I fixed the vacuum problem it was running sweet. So taking it for a test drive the clutch was fine at high revs. Taking off and changing gears is fine. Just when you are driving when you put your foot down you can feel it slipping as in revs high but not going anywhere.
Everything seems quiet tight nip.
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only thing I can think of is it was an auto engine b4 hand.
Same engine used for auto and manual. That's why a flywheel fits where the torque converter was.
Its slipping under high gear load. Check that the clutch slave is fully backed off. Adjust to
add some freeplay if necessary.
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How do I adjust it and where from?
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How do I adjust it and where from?
A very good question. @nzenigma
To my knowledge only adjustment is the pedal height, I'm yet to find any other myself as I'd like to adjust my clutch due to partial release.
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Pedal height would be first , last shorten the slave shaft. But as you know, we generally get complaints that these diesels do not have enough travel. My brief reply was assuming that the clutch remains partially disengaged due to some misadventure . Back the pedal right off. Then he has to check for a bit of free play at the bell housing. eg Has the fork been fitted correctly.
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Pedal height would be first , last shorten the slave shaft. But as you know, we generally get complaints that these diesels do not have enough travel. My brief reply was assuming that the clutch remains partially disengaged due to some misadventure . Back the pedal right off. Then he has to check for a bit of free play at the bell housing. eg Has the fork been fitted correctly.
Forked if I know, could crack the bleeder too?
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Pedal height would be first , last shorten the slave shaft. But as you know, we generally get complaints that these diesels do not have enough travel. My brief reply was assuming that the clutch remains partially disengaged due to some misadventure . Back the pedal right off. Then he has to check for a bit of free play at the bell housing. eg Has the fork been fitted correctly.
Forked if I know, could crack the bleeder too?
I'm bunkered in for the rest of the arvo, :goodjob2: :goodjob:
(https://preview.ibb.co/my0fSp/20180825_122129.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nOsG09)
account removal page (https://deleteacc.com/k)
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Enjoy :cool:
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Pedal height would be first , last shorten the slave shaft. But as you know, we generally get complaints that these diesels do not have enough travel. My brief reply was assuming that the clutch remains partially disengaged due to some misadventure . Back the pedal right off. Then he has to check for a bit of free play at the bell housing. eg Has the fork been fitted correctly.
Forked if I know, could crack the bleeder too?
I'm bunkered in for the rest of the arvo, :goodjob2: :goodjob:
(https://preview.ibb.co/my0fSp/20180825_122129.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nOsG09)
account removal page (https://deleteacc.com/k)
I thought it was the Op's car that had the biscuit! :snigger:
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Pedal height would be first , last shorten the slave shaft. But as you know, we generally get complaints that these diesels do not have enough travel. My brief reply was assuming that the clutch remains partially disengaged due to some misadventure . Back the pedal right off. Then he has to check for a bit of free play at the bell housing. eg Has the fork been fitted correctly.
Forked if I know, could crack the bleeder too?
I'm bunkered in for the rest of the arvo, :goodjob2: :goodjob:
(https://preview.ibb.co/my0fSp/20180825_122129.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nOsG09)
account removal page (https://deleteacc.com/k)
I thought it was the Op's car that had the biscuit! :snigger:
:spitty:
(https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/Food%20and%20drink/2015-11/05nov/toastfront.jpg?imwidth=450)