i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => GENERAL => Topic started by: dx30 on December 28, 2018, 10:29:54
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Our car developed a fault at random where neither the drivers side (RHS) rear door nor the tailgate will open when unlocked, but the other three doors are fine. This did happen before, maybe a year ago, but fixed itself overnight and never recurred so was never investigated. Until now of course.
The tailgate will unlock if the centre button on the key fob is held down. But the door is a more logistical issue.
For the door, I’ve tried the thing with alternating the unlocking and pulling the handle to try to shift the door. Yesterday, continually pushing the lock button on the centre console freed the door and tailgate and both then worked fine though several lock/unlock cycles. Then they both packed in again last night.
So far, Google found me a document which shows the connectors in the doors, but as yet I’ve not had time to pull the door trim to check the mechanism itself. However, with both the tailgate and rear drivers side door at fault simultaneously this ‘feels’ like a different issue than others I’ve seen here. I wonder if there is a common connector somewhere that has become dodgy but I’ve no idea where to start looking. Any ideas welcome as shouting at the car seems to do little… no warranty, the car is 6.5 years old now.
Edit: just been out and door and tailgate still not unlocking - 4 cycles of the lock/unlock from the centre console button and now all working fine, and again still fine after several lock/unock cycles!
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I have a similar issue with mine but with the tailgate and the front passenger door. The lock/unlock cycle occasionally helps.
Seems a rather common issue but most of what I have seen online as the fix is the workaround.
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Be aware that during the MOT test if the doors can't be opened from outside it is a fail.
In an accident the auto locked door system is programed to disengage so doors can be opened from outside/inside, especially the rear doors.
So if the door activation is iffy it may fail test just as the MOT test is being undertaken.
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I noticed one more thing today given the door and tailgate that had fixed themselves have unfixed themselves again. The tailgate lock button (the one on the tailgate not the key fob) does nothing - i.e. no sound at all - when it's playing up. I presume the door is simply a cable from the handle to the lock mechanism and once unlocked electrically that is all that is needed, but the tailgate is electrically operated regardless.
I think I'll take the door trim off and leave it off when I actually get the door open so I can check volts when it plays up again.
Might this be a CANBUS issue - are the doors on the bus and if so are they controlled individually (and if so why?!)
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I read one comment in another thread that there may have been a recall. Could not be the case or might be completely unrelated but I figured you might want to check.
A good place to check in the UK is here (will be listed if its classed as a safely recall) - https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall (https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall)
Failing that a chat with a dealer to check for any might be a 5 min phone call worth making.
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I have some more observations on this in case they are of use. On previous comments (thanks!) there are no recalls and yes it's an MOT failure but thanks for the reminder.
I've been trying to cycle the central locking to free the door to no avail, but it dawned on me today that I've done this with the engine off. Started the engine today and cycling the locking freed the door first time, and this is repeatable. I suspect in the past we've always tried the door with the engine off, which is fair enough in normal cat use.
What still confuses me is why the tailgate will not release when that rear door is playing up. But I also notice that the central locking light flashes when you try to lock it with a door open, indicating that it knows there is an issue (I guess). So, going out on a limb here, say there is a fault unlocking the doors, does the car key the tailgate locked for security purposes? That would provide a reason for the tailgate to remain locked when the faulty door is playing up but still work when the key fob middle button is used. Well, to me anyway...
I've checked the battery today and it is a little down on volts, dropping a bit when the lights are on. Fine voltage reading with the engine on and it always starts the car, but maybe this door thing isa combination of a weary battery, and a sticking door lock mechanism. My theory about the car being clever and keeping the tailgate locked would seem to close the circle.
Thoughts?
Anyway, it seems I have a way forward, I've looked to see how to remove the door trim and so my next step is likely to fit a new lock solenoid or at least give it a good clean.
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You say it is an issue with low volts on battery.
Do you think you may be due a new battery given we are going into the colder spell?
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The battery is the original from 2012. I'm not certain it is the battery but it seems significant that no amount of cycling the locking will release the door with the engine stopped but it worked first time with it running. So yes, a new battery is certainly on the cards.
But regardless of that why is it just the one door? It suggests to me there is an underlying problem with that door. OTOH with the car out of warranty for a while now it may well be time to move on... especially if a new battery makes the issue go away.
I know I'm thinking out loud - I'll get a new battery.
(edit: I mean I'll get a new battery fitted. I've no idea how modern cars cope with batteries removed DIY and if stuff needs to be reset so the garage can do it for me!)
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My 2007 fd, now owned by son has had same issue re rlh door.
No issue re hatch tho'.
Like you it is hit and miss when it wants to fail.
Can't recall him having it fixed so i'll ask him next time i see him if it still temperamental.
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Ok so I removed the door trim today and was confronted with another panel inside secured by screws. I removed those but this panel will not budge. Unless I can remove it I can't get to the lock motor or mechanism. I am wary of trying now because the glass is attached to the window winding mechanism somehow...
Any clue how this can be removed without ending up in more of a mess? Google and Youtube are not being helpful but I am still searching.
(https://i.ibb.co/2sq8gmR/IMG-1411.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wwyJM38)
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Ok so I removed the door trim today and was confronted with another panel inside secured by screws. I removed those but this panel will not budge. Unless I can remove it I can't get to the lock motor or mechanism. I am wary of trying now because the glass is attached to the window winding mechanism somehow...
Any clue how this can be removed without ending up in more of a mess? Google and Youtube are not being helpful but I am still searching.
(https://i.ibb.co/2sq8gmR/IMG-1411.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wwyJM38)
I think this has been detailed on here.
May need to search using several different words to find.