The Original i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: cocosamba on February 29, 2020, 19:40:01
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Hello guys!
Please help me with the problem that I am facing.
I have a 2010 hyundai i30 fd 1.6 crdi 85kw 115bhp d4fb engine that has oil in intercooler, hoses, some on the turbo blades and a dirty throttle body(air control flap).
I suspect a bad PCV valve.
I searched the internet and I found that the korean (or U version before 2009-2010 revision) version has a big pcv valve situated on the small hose that comes from the rocker cover to the air intake hose (between maf sensor and turbocharger).
Here is a picture with that version.
(http://shop.euroimpex.lt/product_images/00414857_8027724470.jpg?big=1)
Mine is made in Europe (czech version) and does not have that lump on the hose (the pcv valve).
Here is a picture with my version.
(http://shop.euroimpex.lt/product_images/00466776_1804876322.jpg?big=1)
The schemes say the same thing. On the ''old'' U engine there is clearly a PCV valve but on the U2 engine it dissapears and I can't find any info on that.
(https://i.ibb.co/8bY27km/SCHEMA.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YX08LgN)
Does my car have a PCV valve? If it does where can I find it?
Thank you!
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Its same place, just in a metal tube ( classic design).
A bit of oil in intercooler is common as turbo seals age. A lot of oil is problematic.
The most common cause of oil in intake manifold is from EGR. Do normal maintenance cleaning.
PCV valve is easy to test. Usually not a problem.
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All of my diesels have had some oil through the system, I assumed it's fairly normal, none have demonstrated any oil consumption worth noting.
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nzenigma - Thank you very much for the reply!
As you can see the scheme that I have access to does not provide a part number for the "classic metal pipe shape pcv valve".
Can you help me with a part number?
(https://i.ibb.co/yNP13Ch/SCHEMA3.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
Also can you explain a bit the mechanism involved in bad/clogged EGR and oil being sucked up the intake system?
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tw.... above is my parts expert, so come back to us if you need one. HOWEVER< The PCV valve is easy checked by the human suck and blow process. :mrgreen:
The EGR valve diverts some exhaust gas back into the intake. Its a crappy system to cool the motor and stop some pollution. Every diesel motor after 2002 has it.
You will find spray cleaners to periodically clean the system
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Tw2005 - please help me with the PCV valve part location and part number.
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Tw2005 - please help me with the PCV valve part location and part number.
CAn't find it and not sure if it is a PCV. have you inspected yours? Is it a straight through pipe? have a look.
If it is a PCV then I say you need the entire intake hose
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31Uay9RZ6pL._AC_.jpg)
281301M250
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Tw2005 - please help me with the PCV valve part location and part number.
CAn't find it and not sure if it is a PCV. have you inspected yours? Is it a straight through pipe? have a look.
If it is a PCV then I say you need the entire intake hose
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31Uay9RZ6pL._AC_.jpg)
281301M250
If open tube, They seem to be using the PCV that our 2.0l petrol motors have. Its screwed into the cam cover at other end of that small hose. Unscrew it and use mouth to suck and blow. If it blocks in one direction its ok.
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Hello guys!
I cleaned the egr valve, egr throttle body and intake manifold.
It was a pain in the a**, but I did it.
It didn't solve my mpg and acceleration problem. The only benefit is a more silent engine and overall ''good working engine'' feeling.
The egr valve vas unexpectedly clean after 101.000 km. The egr cooler was 1/2 clogged. The throttle body was ok. The intake manifold had about 0,5 cm thick layer of soot on the inside walls. I changed all the gaskets (before egr, egr body to egr cooler, egr cooler to intake manifold). I didn't change the intake manifold gasket because the one I got from the parts dealer was thinner and the original one was in great shape.
For the cleaning I used a wire brush, a brush (for paint, with animal hair), throttle body cleaner spray, egr cleaner spray, brake cleaner spray, oven cleaner foam spray and gasoline. I got the best results with the brake cleaner spray.
While taking off the egr cooler I changed the coolant temperature sensor. I bought an aftermarket one made by Topran Germany. I unscrewed the original sensor and screwed by hand first the new one and after I used a spanner to torque it (I think this is the name). After 3-4 turns with the spanner I heard a creaking sound.
The thermostat housing broke. I had to change it. It costs a sh*t load of money. Pics attached.
My advice is to use only hyundai oem parts. I guess the Topran sensor maybe was thicker with 0,1 mm or something like that (unnoticeable with eye) and it cracked the crappy part.
I finally resolved the MPG problem by using Liquid Moly intake cleaner diesel code 5168. I sprayed the can in the air intake hose, after the maf sensor in short 2-3 sec burst while maintaining an average 2000 rpm. When I sprayed the solution the rpm would rise up to 3000 rpm and after a few seconds it dropped back to 2000 rpm.
The procedure took about 10 min. The effect was instant. Now the fuel consumption dropped from about 8-9 l/100 km to 5-6 l/100 km urban driving.
The acceleration is more responsive.
I guess, in conclusion, that in my case I had big deposits on the intake/exhaust valves and probably on piston heads and injectors. By removing this soot deposits I think the compression is better now and I stopped loosing power (more fuel is needed if you have bad compression).
I will attach some photos and I hope they might be useful.
Thank you all for your help!
All pipes protected with pastic bags to prevent contamination.
In the picture you can see the base of the egr valve connected to the pipe that comes from the exhaust gallery. Notice the metal gasket (all replaced).
(https://i.ibb.co/zQvS6L2/20200307-102804.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wBmKcbQ)
Intake manifold after throttle body removal.
(https://i.ibb.co/FxCHzjG/20200307-143740.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mDgN4MQ)
Intake manifold after throttle body removal.
(https://i.ibb.co/sHjSkwW/20200307-143746.jpg) (https://ibb.co/xHhvPjF)
Intake manifold after throttle body removal.
(https://i.ibb.co/5L7V2P0/20200307-143758.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gJnC6x2)
Intake manifold after throttle body removal.
(https://i.ibb.co/0JXJYdm/20200307-143803.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MNhNP3Z)
Intake manifold after throttle body removal.
(https://i.ibb.co/VDfmdTX/20200307-143808.jpg) (https://ibb.co/J2DQNHX)
Throttle body.
(https://i.ibb.co/NKw9pWN/20200307-143841.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jD7yG3w)
Throttle body - closer view.
(https://i.ibb.co/0FWXTDt/20200307-143852.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b2y3TWJ)
Air heater on throttle body.
(https://i.ibb.co/jTkdQzJ/20200307-143856.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1LG3PMz)
Air heater on throttle body - closer view.
(https://i.ibb.co/y6hfH4W/20200307-143901.jpg) (https://ibb.co/hBX73YD)
New thermostat housing with part code.
(https://i.ibb.co/MSZ1Xv0/20200315-121501.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sRb1BfY)
New thermostat housing Hyundai OEM.
(https://i.ibb.co/FzMZQgF/20200315-121514.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m4wZn63)
Old thermostat housing with a crack around the cooling temperature sensor.
(https://i.ibb.co/5cBm8Yb/20200317-151158.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q1kKs0T)
Old thermostat housing with a crack around the cooling temperature sensor - closer view.
(https://i.ibb.co/dmvNpBt/20200317-151201.jpg) (https://ibb.co/1zNCXZM)
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:goodjob2:
Nice you got it sorted!