i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: kamxsd on March 05, 2020, 14:42:50
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I had the fuel filter changed by Johnsons Hyundai dealer in Coventry thinking this was the only thing missing in the service history. Car has done 122k miles. The dealer also ran diagnostics (car had been in use 2 hours prior) and reported back everything ok.
The engine is not rough or smoky. Battery is strong as I had this issue every morning for the last 3 weeks since I bought it without going flat.
Car has been left parked for 12 hours and this morning I made video of cold start (0 degrees celsius):
:link: 2013 Hyundai i30 1.6 CRDI GD Mk2 Cold Starting - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNpqI-g0Z3Q)
After initial 8 second start, I let the engine idle for 3 minutes, then did restart which took 1-2 seconds
Is this normal or could there be something diagnostics could have missed?
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I e-mailed a local mobile mechanic who saw the video this morning and said the following:
"From your video, the cranking speed of the engine is too slow. Your stereo is also losing power during the crank time, this would indicate a discharged battery or one that isn't able to supply full amperage to the starter motor and also support the accessories circuit.
Most diesels require a cranking speed when cold of at least 300 rpm.
A simple test of the voltage drop when cranking cold would confirm this."
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Hi,
Couldn't hear your stereo,
Voltage check during cranking would check for voltage drop .
Why turn on & off before cranking ?
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I assume the on-off thing is due glow plugs. In cold temps it is good to do two or three glow cycles which help the car start better. Of course this is totally unnecessary at such a "high" temps as where this video has been filmed. Below -20'c temp is different story. Also modern glow plug control may do this trick unnecessary, as many modern car uses after glow even when the engine is running. Common thing to do, but depends on the car if necessary and when...
And while talking about glow plugs, I would also check them. Long crank in cold and fast start with warm engine has almost glow plug problems written in them. But even with no glow plugs working, the car should start without such issue in that temp.
I would check battery and glow plugs first. If they are OK, I would focus on fuel system.
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Also puzzled by the on-off procedure.
From memory, the glow plugs continue to be heated for about 30 seconds after the car is running. The light on the dash indicates an optimal wait period.
Start by checking battery ( simple) with headlights on. Do they dim too much? Yes ? Battery change. No? glow plug change.
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I would agree that battery is only just cranking that motor over. I'd fit the highest CCA that will fit. I know I can get a 720CCA into my FD
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I know I can get a 720CCA into my FD if I take the back seat out.
:D
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I know I can get a 720CCA into my FD if I take the back seat out.
:D
(https://i.ibb.co/vhdfsZ5/Capture.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
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GD
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(https://i.ibb.co/ygwz8B1/gd-batt.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
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From memory, the glow plugs continue to be heated for about 30 seconds after the car is running...
It's very obvious that the circuit continues to be energised for at least 15 seconds or so after ignition off - you can hear the high pitch.
That's how I can still wind windows up or down as desired (for the very few times I forget prior to turning the key) so long as Mrs G hasn't already opened the door :rolleyes:
Glow plug heaters? I don't know, but it may be part of the strategy along with sequential shutdown for security, etc.
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WHAT ! ! !
None left in QLD ? ? ?
:lol:
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WHAT ! ! !
None left in QLD ? ? ?
:lol:
Mother reports COSTCO resupplies each day and is out by lunch. Their packs are almost a 2 man carry.
Good news though , car battery stocks are unaffected :goodjob2:
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7 years old - bout time for the battery to fail in our winters.
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I had the fuel filter changed by Johnsons Hyundai dealer in Coventry thinking this was the only thing missing in the service history. Car has done 122k miles. The dealer also ran diagnostics (car had been in use 2 hours prior) and reported back everything ok.
The engine is not rough or smoky. Battery is strong as I had this issue every morning for the last 3 weeks since I bought it without going flat.
Car has been left parked for 12 hours and this morning I made video of cold start (0 degrees celsius):
:link: 2013 Hyundai i30 1.6 CRDI GD Mk2 Cold Starting - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNpqI-g0Z3Q)
After initial 8 second start, I let the engine idle for 3 minutes, then did restart which took 1-2 seconds
Is this normal or could there be something diagnostics could have missed?
Did this issue you are complaining about start after the fuel filter was replaced?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I had a slightly similar issue mostly in same similar weather conditions. It was the starter motor. Took it apart , the mechanic scrubbed the contact parts a little bit with sand paper put it back and the issue disappeared. You could try that . Is relatively easy to take it off and shouldn't be a expensive operation.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A6000 using Tapatalk
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I had the fuel filter changed by Johnsons Hyundai dealer in Coventry thinking this was the only thing missing in the service history. Car has done 122k miles. The dealer also ran diagnostics (car had been in use 2 hours prior) and reported back everything ok.
The engine is not rough or smoky. Battery is strong as I had this issue every morning for the last 3 weeks since I bought it without going flat.
Car has been left parked for 12 hours and this morning I made video of cold start (0 degrees celsius):
:link: 2013 Hyundai i30 1.6 CRDI GD Mk2 Cold Starting - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNpqI-g0Z3Q)
After initial 8 second start, I let the engine idle for 3 minutes, then did restart which took 1-2 seconds
Is this normal or could there be something diagnostics could have missed?
Did this issue you are complaining about start after the fuel filter was replaced?
Not sure if this is where you are going, but to cut to the chase; the filter holder may have been cracked and air is leaking into fuel line. Will cause hard starting :goodjob2:
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I had the fuel filter changed by Johnsons Hyundai dealer in Coventry thinking this was the only thing missing in the service history. Car has done 122k miles. The dealer also ran diagnostics (car had been in use 2 hours prior) and reported back everything ok.
The engine is not rough or smoky. Battery is strong as I had this issue every morning for the last 3 weeks since I bought it without going flat.
Car has been left parked for 12 hours and this morning I made video of cold start (0 degrees celsius):
:link: 2013 Hyundai i30 1.6 CRDI GD Mk2 Cold Starting - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNpqI-g0Z3Q)
After initial 8 second start, I let the engine idle for 3 minutes, then did restart which took 1-2 seconds
Is this normal or could there be something diagnostics could have missed?
Did this issue you are complaining about start after the fuel filter was replaced?
Not sure if this is where you are going, but to cut to the chase; the filter holder may have been cracked and air is leaking into fuel line. Will cause hard starting :goodjob2:
A cracked filter housing usually results in limp home mode (won't rev past 3000 rpm) being implemented by the BCM. :cool:
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I had the fuel filter changed by Johnsons Hyundai dealer in Coventry thinking this was the only thing missing in the service history. Car has done 122k miles. The dealer also ran diagnostics (car had been in use 2 hours prior) and reported back everything ok.
The engine is not rough or smoky. Battery is strong as I had this issue every morning for the last 3 weeks since I bought it without going flat.
Car has been left parked for 12 hours and this morning I made video of cold start (0 degrees celsius):
:link: 2013 Hyundai i30 1.6 CRDI GD Mk2 Cold Starting - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNpqI-g0Z3Q)
After initial 8 second start, I let the engine idle for 3 minutes, then did restart which took 1-2 seconds
Is this normal or could there be something diagnostics could have missed?
Did this issue you are complaining about start after the fuel filter was replaced?
Not sure if this is where you are going, but to cut to the chase; the filter holder may have been cracked and air is leaking into fuel line. Will cause hard starting :goodjob2:
A cracked filter housing usually results in limp home mode (won't rev past 3000 rpm) being implemented by the BCM. :cool:
:wink: limp is implemented by the ECU. If air is in the fuel line, the diesel powered car will not start, (unless it is owned by the Pope). :cool:
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@kamxsd
Where are you with the problem?
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I did long crank video on 6th March. I had been filling up with Shell V-Power for the last 2 refills and when I did voltage drop test on 9th March with lights on, it started Ok.
Voltage Drop Test on Hyundai i30 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRa9qQj8FhU)
I have since given car to someone who does daily 50 mile motorway commute. I will get the car back next week and update.
Thank you everybody for your suggestions.
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Low voltage, seems to be resting at 11.8 and cranks at 10.8, A healthy battery should be sitting on 13.2 to 12.8
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@kamxsd
Where are you with the problem?
Managed to plugs. Will update post with details.
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Low voltage, seems to be resting at 11.8 and cranks at 10.8, A healthy battery should be sitting on 13.2 to 12.8
Might have been because it was a cold morning and I did put all the lights on. I did the test again.
Battery test (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1mMES148b8)
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At least 3 times, I warmed up the engine, removed the wires and the metal rail connecting the plugs and squirted on some penetrating oil (PlusGas) using a pen oil can.
I bought a torque wrench from Halfords that works counter-clockwise too as I was worried that if I apply too much force, I could rip the top part of the glow plug off. Initially, it set it as 15nm which was not enough but it started turning (squeaky) at 20nm.
I started on the one at the right but when it came to the last one on the left, it did not come out completely - the rod part was stuck in the hole but the sleeve with the thread came out.
So I change 3 of the plugs after cleaning out with reamer kit. For the one that was stuck, I poured in as much penetrating oil as I could, screwed the sleeve back in and let the engine run for 20 mins. When I attempted to remove again, it all came out as one.
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(https://i.ibb.co/NYM5RtB/2020-05-31-12-14-35.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zfzpdQv)
(https://i.ibb.co/hYsxTKv/2020-05-31-12-14-37.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sWjpXFr)
(https://i.ibb.co/tc0ysH8/2020-05-31-12-14-41.jpg) (https://ibb.co/P42Bhrw)
(https://i.ibb.co/8sgTWCN/2020-05-31-12-14-45.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zxVjyMQ)
(https://i.ibb.co/c8wtVsm/2020-05-31-12-15-51.jpg) (https://ibb.co/94h2SdM)
(https://i.ibb.co/X5pt8sX/2020-05-31-12-15-59.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4SMpdTW)
(https://i.ibb.co/DYF0hbg/2020-05-31-12-37-50.jpg) (https://ibb.co/tz6VghP)
(https://i.ibb.co/bPkZ97t/2020-06-02-14-01-13.jpg) (https://ibb.co/c1jHnxq)
(https://i.ibb.co/jwQzZGN/2020-06-02-14-30-31.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/fM6bB96/2020-06-02-14-30-48.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jh0dBz0)
(https://i.ibb.co/XDNJ2W7/2020-06-02-14-48-45.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MfWN2gc)
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Good thing you got it out. Sure seems some of the plugs were not working properly. Would be good to measure the resistance of the ones that came out easily. When I measured my old plugs, all 4 of them were dead. That explained the difficult starts @ -20*C :eek:
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Agree Sundiz,
@kamxsd is to be congratulated for following precautionary principle > use WD40 and extract plugs with motor hot.
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Great pics and explanation.
Good brain work re stuck separated plug :victory:
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brain work :victory:
"brain work" ....I know it well, I love it, it knows me too, it loves me. They have brains in NZ , we will bring them back and make Aussie great again, love brain work. :happydance:
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brain work :victory:
"brain work" ....I know it well, I love it, it knows me too, it loves me. They have brains in NZ , we will bring them back and make Aussie great again, love brain work. :happydance:
So modest , :rofl: :rofl: