Tha Original i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => GENERAL => Topic started by: gtd2000 on May 11, 2020, 23:27:22
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Well I had fun over the weekend with my sister car, a 2012 KIA Cee'd SW.
It didn't matter what I did with adjusting the shoes at the hub or putting extra tension on the handbrake cable, the brakes were rubbish.
Here my walk-through which should apply to the i30 range.
:link: 2012 KIA Ceed SW Handbrake Service - YouTube (https://youtu.be/pvuqiaWRoGg)
https://youtu.be/pvuqiaWRoGg
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Very well done. :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
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Great job, and thanks for the optics :D
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Great video, I've had to do this a couple of times on a 2011 i30. To remove the rear brake yoke, you can undo that bottom bolt using a deep cranked ring spanner, instead of having to un-couple that suspension link. Periodically, I lift up the mat in the console to check that equalising bar that the handbrake cables are attached to. With the handbrake on, that bar should be at right angles to the rod attached to the handbrake. If it's sitting at a noticeable angle, this is a good indication that the little lever in the brake has seized up (again)! The side of the bar which is closer to the front of the car is the side which has seized up.
On the car I had, this had the effect of not allowing the brake shoes to back-off, so the brake linings were paper-thin.
Don't be tempted to just keep tightening up the handbrake adjuster to compensate for the brake becoming slack. Provided that the lever in the rear brake doesn't seize up (and you don't do a lot of handbrake turns) the handbrake needs little attention to stay tight. Don't go out and buy new handbrake cables as a first resort, they are pretty chunky and don't stretch that much.