i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: Dalesman70 on May 27, 2020, 13:23:18
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Hi. I'm hoping an other forum member might have had a similar problem & be able to help. STORY SO FAR:-
Fitted new LUK clutch kit to my daughters car can't get clutch to disengage enough to get any gears with engine running.
Slave cylinder piston is at full extension & is travelling fully out to the outer retaining circlip & staying there on maximum travel as long as clutch pedal is depressed in the cab.
Have contacted LUK & given all part Nos. of old clutch plate, cover, bearing & they say the clutch kit supplied was the correct one for this application ( 2010 diesel + 6 speed box ect. )
I am sure this is not a bleeding problem as slave cylinder is at full travel.
I have also levered the the release bearing arm further than the normal fully out position only to find out that this had no effect on gear selection either. went slowly up to about 25mm almost to the point where i could nearly remove the push rod from the slave cylinder.
I have considered that the bearing folk arm might be cracked & be just bending under pressure rather than pressing the pressure plate fingers in to release & clear the clutch plate from the flywheel. but other than that i'm stumped.
I realise I will have to take it all apart again just would like some other input based on other peoples experiences or knowledge.
any comment very welcome - cheers
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Takes a lot to bend a fork. Right way around ?
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Fitted new LUK clutch kit to my daughters car can't get clutch to disengage enough to get any gears with engine running.
Slave cylinder piston is at full extension & is travelling fully out
Been here recently. A member got the wrong clutch. He got a 5 speed / 6 are different.
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Fitted new LUK clutch kit to my daughters car can't get clutch to disengage enough to get any gears with engine running.
Slave cylinder piston is at full extension & is travelling fully out
Been here recently. A member got the wrong clutch. He got a 5 speed / 6 are different.
I thought that too, but member has been assured the right one was supplied for their vehicle. :undecided:
Have contacted LUK & given all part Nos. of old clutch plate, cover, bearing & they say the clutch kit supplied was the correct one for this application ( 2010 diesel + 6 speed box ect. )
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Thanks for the comments so far can anyone shed any light on what could be happening when the clutch lever can be moved so far past the normal position & still have no effect on gear selection - clutch fork arm was not removed just bearing replaced
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OK mate dont be offended when I ask, did you put the driven plate in wrong way round? Did it myself many moons ago. :rolleyes:
I take it from your comments that the clutch remains permanently engaged; eg. you hit the starter in 1st with clutch pedal down and car jumps forward?
When you bolted up the pressure plate you would have seen the center fingers bend inward, eventually to be flat? That is correct.
When you physically move the clutch fork does it only swivel, not move in and out? That is to say, it is still fixed on the internal swivel point?
The arm will be free of pressure for the first part of its travel. Imagine the thrust bearing has about 3-5 mm space between it and the pressure plate fingers. Is this true? After that it meets resistance?
The whole thing is a simple device that hasn't changed since Henry Ford was a lad. Check the above before you pull the box out again. Then compare the height of old and new pressure plates . Good luck
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OK mate dont be offended when I ask, did you put the driven plate in wrong way round? Did it myself many moons ago. :rolleyes:
I take it from your comments that the clutch remains permanently engaged; eg. you hit the starter in 1st with clutch pedal down and car jumps forward?
When you bolted up the pressure plate you would have seen the center fingers bend inward, eventually to be flat? That is correct.
When you physically move the clutch fork does it only swivel, not move in and out? That is to say, it is still fixed on the internal swivel point?
The arm will be free of pressure for the first part of its travel. Imagine the thrust bearing has about 3-5 mm space between it and the pressure plate fingers. Is this true? After that it meets resistance?
The whole thing is a simple device that hasn't changed since Henry Ford was a lad. Check the above before you pull the box out again. Then compare the height of old and new pressure plates . Good luck
Lubly Jubly Gaz, that's how you do it. :hatoff: :DoubleKiss:
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OK mate dont be offended when I ask, did you put the driven plate in wrong way round? Did it myself many moons ago. :rolleyes:
I take it from your comments that the clutch remains permanently engaged; eg. you hit the starter in 1st with clutch pedal down and car jumps forward?
When you bolted up the pressure plate you would have seen the center fingers bend inward, eventually to be flat? That is correct.
When you physically move the clutch fork does it only swivel, not move in and out? That is to say, it is still fixed on the internal swivel point?
The arm will be free of pressure for the first part of its travel. Imagine the thrust bearing has about 3-5 mm space between it and the pressure plate fingers. Is this true? After that it meets resistance?
The whole thing is a simple device that hasn't changed since Henry Ford was a lad. Check the above before you pull the box out again. Then compare the height of old and new pressure plates . Good luck
Yeah, that's what I meant re wrong way. Brainhanics :goodjob:
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Thanks nzenigma for the check points you mentioned answer's below
1 - Plate is in right way round
2 - Start engine in gear car only just starts to creep forward slightly with pedal on the floor moving off as you release the pedal - you can change gear as you drive but it feels like driving on a worn out clutch that isn't fully clearing.
3 - can't remember taking note of the fingers final position when bolting up the cover. sorry
4 - Will check fork for any abnormal sideways movement & note how much free travel it has before contacting the cover fingers first thing in the morning
I agree with your comment it is a simple device & in 50 years of spanner-ing never had a similar problem in any vehicles i've fitted clutches to in the past
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Thanks nzenigma for the check points you mentioned answer's below
1 - Plate is in right way round
2 - Start engine in gear car only just starts to creep forward slightly with pedal on the floor moving off as you release the pedal - you can change gear as you drive but it feels like driving on a worn out clutch that isn't fully clearing.
3 - can't remember taking note of the fingers final position when bolting up the cover. sorry
4 - Will check fork for any abnormal sideways movement & note how much free travel it has before contacting the cover fingers first thing in the morning
I agree with your comment it is a simple device & in 50 years of spanner-ing never had a similar problem in any vehicles i've fitted clutches to in the past
:goodjob2: :goodjob2:
My crystal ball says you have the wrong pressure plate> too high. We shall see if she is right. :)
Cheers.