The Original i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => GENERAL => Topic started by: LemurMort on June 08, 2020, 07:28:37
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G'day mates!
These past few days I've been having issues with boot doors.
No matter if I unlock the whole car or just the boot, I cannot open them.
The only way is to make my way into the boot through the rear seat and manually unlock the boot from the inside.
It works for now, but I am worried what will happen after I turn 40! :D
Today I'm gonna test the button first. If that works then my suspicion is on the electromagnetic lock and lastly BCM.
The lock part number is 81230-2L000.
I did see the lock has 4 contacts so I'm curious if anyone has schematic of it? If there's a way to test it, I'd be more than happy to try it.
Thanks!
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Sorry not going to be much help - however I think someone on the facebook group was looking for assistance with a very similar issue recently. Not sure of the outcome (if any).
I am only taking a rather big guess here - but I would suspect the 4 contacts would be 2x power (e.g. 12v and GND) and 1x for the external boot release (i.e. switch) and 1x for the BCM (lock/unlock). Working on the idea the lock for the boot is an actuator like in the 4 doors.
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I was thinking something along those lines.
I think you're right; it should be an actuator like on other doors.
Now I'm leaning towards the idea that everything goes through BCM, but why would I need 4 wires on the lock itself then?
Remember that when you unlock the doors or boot, the boot doesn't open, you have to open it manually.
- Unlock all doors; BCM enables 12V, electromagnet CAN BE activated
- Unlock just the boot; BCM enables 12V, electromagnet CAN BE activated
- I press the button on the door; therefore I ACTIVATE electromagnet and open the boot
But that could be achieved with only 2 wires.
Next thoughts derived from the upper ones:
There are two electromagnets inside the lock maybe; one that enables 'the safety pin' and second that enables opening the lock?
If either is not activated, I cannot open the door.
Bare with me on this one:
- Unlock all doors; BCM enables 12V, electromagnet 1 IS activated; electromagnet 2 CAN BE activated
- Unlock just the boot; BCM enables 12V, electromagnet 1 IS activated; electromagnet 2 CAN BE activated
- I press the button on the door; electromagnet 2 IS activated and I open the boot
This is my best shot at the moment. Two separate circuits.
What do you think?
A diagram would save us a lot of uncertain brainstorming :D
EDIT:
Weather was on my side so I managed to check with a multimeter. I'd say the second thought I mentioned was correct.
I unplugged the connector from the lock.
(https://i.ibb.co/QH19sRN/Connector.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
This is always 12V.
This is 0V. Only when I press the button on the door, it jumps to 12V then drops to 0V no matter how long I have it pressed.
I'd say the lock itself is faulty.
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One member had similar issues with trunk door not opening. When he removed the door trim, he saw that the wires and the connector were so badly corroded that the signal did not go through it to the bcm.
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Thanks, that was the first thing I checked. The connectors seem to be in great shape, no corrosion whatsoever.
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Hi yea. Was just reading about your boot lock problem. I am wondering if you have solved it.
I have the same problem. My boot wont open so i do same thing as yourself.
When im opening the booth on my 2008 i30 i have to go through the back of my car an reach in and clip it open. Then try an push it up an i am in my mid 40s :D.
Its a pain in the neck. It started a few days ago, the doors open with the imobiliser but the boot refuses too.
I am also a novice at this fixing car stuff so wondering did you find a solution !
Thanks.
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Hello!
I have to check with the guys from a mechanic shop, but I'm sure I'll have to buy a new lock.
I'll let you know.
Did you check is the button on the door functional?
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Guys, today I got a used lock from a 2007 FD.
Everything works.
I paid 30€ for it.
A new OEM would've cost me around 170€.
I'll do the math for you: it's cheaper 😀
Now I can finally open the boot like a gentleman instead of opening it from the inside and then jamming a plastic Santa figure so the door don't close on me when I move my hand away 😀
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:judges:
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:judges:
:iws: :whsaid:
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Guys, I dissasembled the old lock.
I was totally wrong.
No electromagnets, just one electromotor and a pair of sliding contacts (total 4 contacts).
I'm guessing when the latch of the lock is in closed position, the sliding contacts are closed so that circuit is closed.
With that condition in 'true state' when a button on the door is pressed you get a short signal that activates motor that moves gear that moves
something so the latch can be released and door can be opened. When the short signal drops to 0, a spring returns the gear back in original position.
I didn't know what to expect during disassembly so I broke a few parts but I got the general idea how it works.
Sorry, no pictures.
I'm not totally sure the lock could be repaired because I had to grind the two rivets that hold the plastic to metal frame
to extract the plastic.
The best solution is to get another lock and use the old one as a paper holder :)
Sorry, no pictures; I was in a hurry and in the middle of a long trip home :)
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You ground the rivets but is the plastic still in one piece? You can always reassemble with screws or nuts and bolts. If the plastic is damaged there is always 3D printing. :whistler:
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You ground the rivets but is the plastic still in one piece? You can always reassemble with screws or nuts and bolts. If the plastic is damaged there is always 3D printing. :whistler:
I'll take this as a good natured joke from down under :D
Nah, the lock is built as a piece to be replaced if defective.
You could fiddle around with it and lose a ton of time ending with questionable results.
If you have enough spare time and proper tools it'd be interesting to try, though.
Id' do this now that I know what I'm dealing with:
1. remove all the screws you see (there's 4 od them)
2. grind the rivets.
3. gently pull the plastic assembly from the rivets
4. fun time
5. maybe drill inside the rivets and tap them with M3 or M4 thread so everything could be reassembled with additional screws
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I'll take this as a good natured joke from down under
I only have one nature and it's good. :victory:
:link: The 3D models of TheAussieGonz ? Cults (https://cults3d.com/en/users/TheAussieGonz/creations)
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I'll take this as a good natured joke from down under
I only have one nature and it's good. :victory:
:link: The 3D models of TheAussieGonz ? Cults (https://cults3d.com/en/users/TheAussieGonz/creations)
I just read your link and found out, I'm worthless, 😭
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I'll take this as a good natured joke from down under
I only have one nature and it's good. :victory:
:link: The 3D models of TheAussieGonz ? Cults (https://cults3d.com/en/users/TheAussieGonz/creations)
Sorry, didn't mean to say it cannot be done or offend :)
I just took it humorously because I don't have the possibilities to print stuff in 3D :)
You have some cool designs over there :)
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No offence taken.. :goodjob:
You have some cool designs over there :)
and a 3D printer he has been known to help members with..
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No offence taken.. :goodjob:
You have some cool designs over there :)
and a 3D printer he has been known to help members with..
That's really nice to hear. Great stuff!
Too bad we're too far away from each other otherwise I'd be all over him with ideas :)
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I just read your link and found out, I'm worthless, 😭
No, Mick, you're PRICEless - big difference! :lol:
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I just read your link and found out, I'm worthless, 😭
No, Mick, you're PRICEless - big difference! :lol:
@The Gonz
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
I like that way of thinking. The Master of Spin. :winker:
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:lol: :goodjob:
Besides, they might download the design but there's still the cost of manufacture and delivery! :robot: :honk: