The normal mode of powering a car radio is for a battery feed to keep alive the station programming and clock, as well as an ignition feed to have it turn off when you turn off the ignition. These are two separate lines in the loom to the radio. If there has been no wiring change in the time you've had it, I would be concerned about the radio itself, now that you've confirmed you have no steering wheel buttons. That part of the loom that goes nowhere might well be what would have connected to the steering wheel. Remove it or ensure it's not shorting to the body anywhere.

I'd be checking the controls on your steering wheel. The clockspring may be on its way out.

@ Bazlord Prime.  Front tyres being worn down to the belts on the inside typically suggests first checking if the tyres have too much negative camber (i.e top of the tyre is tilted inwards a bit).

1.   Do you know what the oem alignment specs are for your model, especially the camber. (As an example, below are the specs for my 2018 PD).  If you don’t know, a phone call to your wheel aligner or Hyundai should help.

2.   Did your wheel aligner tell you what your alignment specs were when they first put the car on their aligner (especially the camber spec)?  If so, what were those numbers?

3.   Did your wheel aligner give you a print-out of your alignment specs after they adjusted your wheels, as “best they could” 😊.  If so, what were those numbers?

It is just a thought but if your camber cannot be adjusted back to oem specs through the normal realignment process it may be that a suspension component etc is broken or bent…though an experienced wheel aligner should have found this while examining the suspension etc.

You aligner said they: “…can't do a full proper alignment on these models as they don't have any adjustable <something or other. Sorry - can't remember what it is>."   I’m guessing he is saying that your car model doesn’t have oem adjustable camber bolts.  I believe Whiteline Suspension (tel: 02 4340 2355) would carry those for your model.  Maybe give them a ring and discuss.  They are big in the suspension/performance business and when I used to buy from them, they were very good with technical advice about their products.

See picture below of generic adjustable camber bolts.  I don’t think they are that expensive, maybe $40~$50 pair from Whiteline? 

But I am not sure that using adjustable camber bolts (with their +/- 1.5 degrees variation) to drag your tyres up to a more upright position will give you enough acceptable negative camber.  That is why it would be good to know just how much negative camber you have at present.
 
For example, if your oem camber should be say, 1 degree negative and your tyres presently are at a guess say, 4 degrees negative, then even if you used the adjustable bolts' maximum +1.5 degrees swing, the best negative camber you can get is -2.5 degrees (4 degrees less 1.5 degrees) which is still roughly 1.5 degrees too high (2.5 degrees less 1 degree oem).  This is just a very rough example because of some unknown variables and a coffee-deprived mind.

I would check with Whiteline first then ask your wheel aligner if those adjustable camber bolts (+/- 1.5 degrees) will do the job and if so, how much to fit them.  Your wheel aligner could also buy them in for you if you wanted him to fit them.  Fitting adjustable camber bolts is not a hard job in itself and you could do it if you’re a bit experienced with working on cars.  YouTube would have a few relevant DIY videos.  The accompanying Whiteline instruction sheet with the bolts is fairly good.  Then you take the car to the wheel aligner.


Above is included just to give you some idea of wheel specs (if you didn't know. )




That's me out! 

These must be korean-built cars for the Aussie market, my czech-built diesel has nothing in the way to impede access to the oil filter. I have a Hilka 1/2" socket set and that includes a 27mm socket. Take care when screwing the filter cap back on so that you don't get the threads crossed, and lubricate the big o-ring. You have to push the cover down quite firmly to push the filter cartridge into the housing, and there's more resistance as the o-ring gets squeezed into place, but after that, it doesn't take much effort to screw the cap on until it is fully seated. Max 35Nm torque.

Hello Everyone,

I own an i30 Active 1.8L, Petrol, Auto, 2013, MY14. In the last few weeks my car's engine has randomly shut down on its own when I was at the lights, all the lights in the car's dash turned on when this happened, so I had to turn the key back to the off position and hoped the car would turn back on when I turned the key again to start the engine and luckily it worked. This has randomly happened twice in the last 2 weeks, but over the years I have also had on several incidents the engine not start at first go, but after the third attempt it kicked in.

I have serviced my vehicle with Hyundai for the life of the car so far, and every time they have done the service and have run the diagnostic report, they confirm the vehicle is good and they could not find any issues. I have also just this week taken it to a trusted mechanic that was not Hyundai, and after checking everything from his end, from battery to alternator and also running a diagnostic report, he said the same thing, all the tests do not come up with any errors or faults, from what he could see was that the car is in great conditions and is running great, so nothing can be done if we don't know what the issue is.

I no longer feel safe driving the vehicle due to the engine shutting off whilst driving at random moments, and would like to know if anyone else has experienced this and has been able to get to the bottom of why this is happening.