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Hi everyone, please bear with me...this is my first post.

My 2012 CRDi blue drive active has taken to bunny hopping when temperatures get to around 18°C (& above).
It starts up ok in all weathers and doesn't do this in cold/cool weather, just when the mercury starts to rise.
There's no particular speed at which it gets worse/better, and causes a bit of drag on the acceleration/drive, but then seems to settle down after a few minutes (maybe 5?)
It's as if fuel is struggling to get through, but I can't understand this as I thought fuel got thinner in warmer weather and therefore flows easier (please correct me if I'm wrong...and if this is indeed the problem I have 🙈).
It's frustrating, but also concerning as I...

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Hi All,

I am a very recent i30 owner, and as such, very new to this forum.

I already love my i30, but it has one issue im trying to resolve. Under acceleration, between 40 and 50 mph there is quite a pronounced wobble in the car. Feels like it's wobbling side to side. I dont feel it through the steering wheel really, more like just the car is wobbling side to side slightly.

Been doing lots of reading up on it and based on that I am coming to the conclusion that it might be a worn inner CV joint on a drive shaft. I have been under the car and recorded a video of me manipulating the OSF inner CV joint side of the drive shaft, there is very slight play with an audible click sound when moving it back and forward...

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Hello
Does anyone know how to enable Auto hold to be alway On. And Drive mode to stay on Normal after restarting the car.

Drive mode is keep resetting to ECO when turn off and turn back on again.

I just bought an i30 DCT Premium Hybrid and I am still trying to figure it out. I checked the manual and says that those two should remain with their last setting and not reset.

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I'm at my wits end. I have a 2017 i30 PD, dual clutch transmission hatchback, and last year I had to have the entire transmission replaced after only having driven 30,000km (I am the only owner and don't drive it like an idiot). The issue was that the orange lights on the dashboard would light up, and when I put the car into reverse or drive, it would not move. Sometimes it revved, other times it did not.

The cost - which was covered by Hyundai, thankfully - was around $8000. I had to pay for labour ($800) 

Last week, I turn my car on, I have a dashboard full of orange lights and the telltale not moving when I put it into reverse. It's undriveable because it's not safe, and I've also lost power while I've bee...

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Hi All,

When I wash the front windscreen the rear wipers come on at the same time, as the washer motor feeds both front and rear windows (but reverses the impeller direction to feed the rear) the rear window always runs the wiper with the window dry.

When I wash the rear window only the front wipers don't operate. (the rear washer doesn't work but that's a separate issue)

Is there something I have actuated that I can turn off or is this some kind of weird fault I'm seeing?

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Hi,
Here's a tip for those who face the issue of the rubber of the Liftgate/Trunk/Hatch Release/Opening Switch deteriorating or crumbling. Don't leave it for too long or the internal switch mechanism will fall out and the following fix will be moot. I was lucky, that happened to me but I was able to find it on my garage floor!

I cut out a piece of bicycle inner tube (you can use any thin and flexible rubber) and glued it into place. It's out of sight so I didn't worry too much about how it looked. Anyone could do a prettier job. 

I reckon I saved a few quid.

Good luck.

Cheers,
S

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Hi,
My baby has clocked over 140k kms and feels slightly rough. I've picked up a 4-pack of NGK SILZKR7B11. They are all uniformly factory gapped at 0.98mm. A google search gives me gaps between 0.9 and 1.1 in various sites.

Can anyone enlighten me on the factory recommended gap, please? It's the Trophy model (Australia) if that makes a difference.

Cheers,
S