[eye30]

Well, I took my i30 for it's 15,000k service yesterday.....
I supplied my own oil & filter so was quite happy with the $142.25 charged. 

Now I'm not saying they didn't but how did they confirm they used your oil and filter?

I ask this because many years a go I gave a garage a set of plugs to use as I wanted a particular brand and they didn't use them.

On picking the car up I noticed my plugs on the side and when I check they had used their own and charged me.

Well the manger was very defensive, refunded eventually and just to say they lost my busines plus a number of others I knew used the garage.

[rustynutz]

Guess I have no real way of knowing if they used the oil I  supplied, but, this dealership is in a fairly small country town so they really can't afford to upset customers.
 As for the filter, it was just a geniune Hyundai filter that I'd bought online so I have no issue if they swapped it for one of their own.  
As an aside, I saw them write clearly on the job sheet that I was supplying my own oil & filter....they even highlighted it in bright pink!

Going through my invoice I see total parts used were $11.84 (Injector cleaner & Screen cleaner), there was an environmental charge of $4.98, labour was $112.50 and GST was $12.93.
All up I consider what they charged me to be quite reasonable in this day and age....

[beerman]

From memory mine cost me around $150 all up supplying the oil but not the filter I think their charge including the filter was $90.

But that isn't a dealer.

[rustynutz]

So considering a filter will cost 30 odd dollars, my service was indeed quite reasonable....

[beerman]

Anyone used mobil one 0w40?  If so how did it go?

[Dazzler]

Anyone used mobil one 0w40?  If so how did it go?

I haven't used it but it is supposed to be a top notch oil (if you can justify spending that much reckon you can't go wrong)

[beerman]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170453896957&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:AU:1123

$65 for 5.676l is a good price $12.71 plus $3.85 per additional carton (up to a total of 4) for delivery.

I'm going to get 2 boxes one for now and one for 6 months time.

[Dazzler]

Looks good to me...

M1 0w40 would be the pick of Mobil oils for an Aussie diesel without DPF.
Interesting that the delivered cost is the same as pickup (West Heidelberg) price from Harold at http://performancelub.com/Mobil%20pricelist.htm

[beerman]

Just thought I would let you all know that I ordered the oil on the evening of the 9/5 and it was on my doorstep when I got home from work at 3pm on the 11th. Can't believe how fast delivery was.

[Dazzler]

 

[rustynutz]

excellent! 

[constipated]

Pip could I ask a question regarding Mobil 1 and the link Beerman has put up.

You consistently recommend 0w-40 viscosity as the best. Dazzler has previously stated that the standard oil they use in the i30 is a 5w-30.

What benefits are there in 0w-40 over 5-30w. I already understand the better cold weather startup lubrication, but what does the 30 vs 40 viscosity at operating temperature mean in real world conditions. How does it affect fuel economy, lubrication and longevity of the engine.

Beerman if you're around, have you been happy with this ebay seller, and satisfied the product is genuine and to specification?

Thanks.

Pip could I ask a question regarding Mobil 1 and the link Beerman has put up.

You consistently recommend 0w-40 viscosity as the best. Dazzler has previously stated that the standard oil they use in the i30 is a 5w-30.

What benefits are there in 0w-40 over 5-30w. I already understand the better cold weather startup lubrication, but what does the 30 vs 40 viscosity at operating temperature mean in real world conditions. How does it affect fuel economy, lubrication and longevity of the engine.

Beerman if you're around, have you been happy with this ebay seller, and satisfied the product is genuine and to specification?

Thanks.

I've supported the 0w30/40 specification because it will generally indicate the use of better base oil in order to be able to meet the 0w cold specification and still be able to meet the 30 or 40 grade viscosity when hot. This doesn't automatically mean it's better, although it should be just the same, but then again I wouldn't dismiss a 5w on this point alone either.

To answer the question on the better hot viscosity I'll say that oil thicker than needed to stop the metal bits touching (and I'm only talking about when hot because all oils are too thick when cold) is of no advantage and will just add drag, reducing economy. It could also reduce oil flow to less than ideal and prevent sufficient quantities getting to some places like tappets and cam followers. Identifying when an oil is too thick might not be easy but it's probably better to have it marginally too thick than too thin. This wouldn't be an excuse to use a 50 oil though as this will start out thick and end up thick... not of any use at all unless you were on the track perhaps where the extra temperature will bring it down to correct viscosity. The maker's recommendation ought be taken but you might need to read between the lines a little.

If 50 is too thick then why isn't 40 too thick or again is 30 too thin? The answer to these questions is both yes and no because 30, 40 or 50 grade does not tell us the viscosity at all but rather a range of viscosities. Some 30 grade oil might be to thin and some 40 grade oil might be too thick. The actual viscosity will be measured at 100 degrees Celcius and is measured in something called centistokes (Cst). I look for a value of close to 12 Cst and not by coincidence many 30 and 40 grade oils are just that. It will either be a thicker 30 or a thinner 40. I use a thick 0w30. Mobil 1 0w40 is reported to start out as a thin 40 and shear (reduce in viscosity under stress) to a thick 30 grade (it's still around my 12 Cst  figure). 

There are other things to consider like HTHS which is a measure of viscosity at 150 degrees.

The grade written on the container is probably the least useful specification.

[ElleB]

helpful answer Pip 

[beerman]

Pip could I ask a question regarding Mobil 1 and the link Beerman has put up.

You consistently recommend 0w-40 viscosity as the best. Dazzler has previously stated that the standard oil they use in the i30 is a 5w-30.

What benefits are there in 0w-40 over 5-30w. I already understand the better cold weather startup lubrication, but what does the 30 vs 40 viscosity at operating temperature mean in real world conditions. How does it affect fuel economy, lubrication and longevity of the engine.

Beerman if you're around, have you been happy with this ebay seller, and satisfied the product is genuine and to specification?

Thanks.

Mate the seller was very easy to deal with, he had the oil at my door in two days and didn't hesitate to provide an invoice acceptable to my lease company.

As for if it is genuine and to spec, this is a little more difficult to prove. In choosing to purchase, I looked at the sellers feedback, all of which was positive. The oil was in the correct bottles and sealed. My mechanic was very enthusastic about my oil choice, and he didn't see any difference and the car has not missed a beat, touch wood.

So short of an oil test I don't know how you would prove it is genuine and to spec (though I suspect faking it would require a massive effort)

[rustynutz]

This question is directed at Pip but happy to hear other member's opinions too.....

Ok, what is your opinion of the new Castrol Edge Engine Oil - 0W-40 "Titanium"

The price has jumped around $10 over the price of the previous 5 litre Edge and interestingly it is now "not suitable for diesel vehicles fitted with a dpf" (not that that is an issue in Oz)

Supercheap Auto are asking $84.95 for the 0W-40 yet they sell the "Titanium" 5W-40 for $74.95. In your opinion, is it worth paying the extra 10 bucks or should I drop back to the 5W-40 or, should I even be thinking of using a different brand all together?

Thanks in advance.... 

[Phil №❶]

While we wait for Pip's answer, unless you live in Thredbo, I can't see the need for "0" protection in Oz. These gradings are all about temperature viscosity and European winters' would require it. Some places in Oz could do with "50" protection, especially turbo engines IMO.

Ok, what is your opinion of the new Castrol Edge Engine Oil - 0W-40 "Titanium"

A timely question indeed. My stash of oil has depleted and have 3 cars needing a change (they don't all get the same). My preferred i30 oil is no longer available and although I spend a bit of time now and again looking at oil I will still need to do a bit of research.  Even so, I'm leaning towards Mobil 1 0w40 it probably being closest to my previous German Castrol 0w30.

I'm about to go out to play squash right now so will get back to you in the next day or two with my choice...

[rustynutz]

Thanks Phil & Pip.......

In the meantime, here's a video about Castrol's Edge Titanium...



Oh and here's a copy of a notice I obtained some time back from Hyundai re: recommended oil.....as can be seen, quite a few of those are 0W.... 

[Phil №❶]

The video was interesting Rusty, multigrade oils currently do what the new oil does, that is, the polymers join up to form longer chains when heated, that's how the multigrade function is achieved. I guess this new oil does it better. Notice the pressure references on the camshaft lobes, what a bummer that so much pressure is also mixed with gritty carbon from the EGR valve in diesels.

The Hy document is also interesting for B4 grades. Their recommendation on the cold side ranges from 0 - 10 based on brand apparently. On the hot side, 1 brand is allowed to offer only 30 protection. I don't understand the logic of this document at all. 

[beerman]

The main reason for 0w grade is that it virtually guarantees a synthetic oil rather then a blend, because as I understand it you cannot blend to 0w.

Also from my memory of reading a while back, all oils are too thick at start up as opposed to being too thin at operating temp (there is next to nothing in it at operating temp). So you are better to go the 0w as it is the thinnest at start up where your engine suffers most.

The main reason for 0w grade is that it virtually guarantees a synthetic oil rather then a blend, because as I understand it you cannot blend to 0w.

Also from my memory of reading a while back, all oils are too thick at start up as opposed to being too thin at operating temp (there is next to nothing in it at operating temp). So you are better to go the 0w as it is the thinnest at start up where your engine suffers most.

Could not have said it better.

[AlanHo]

Notice the pressure references on the camshaft lobes, what a bummer that so much pressure is also mixed with gritty carbon from the EGR valve in diesels.

I am not sure about that or whether the carbon is indeed "gritty". Carbon, and its derivative graphite, finds numerous uses in the engineering world as an outstanding high pressure and high temperature bearing material. If carbon should get into the engine oil in any great quantity - and I am not sure that it does - I cannot foresee how it would cause any significant problems. I believe that the main oil pollutant to worry about is nitrous compounds which over time and temperature create acids that affect oil lubricity. Car and lubricant manufacturers take this into account when they set oil change frequencies.

EGR valves have been around for a long time - yet the longevity of a modern diesel engine is beyond question. Several people on this forum have owned diesels that have done huge mileages without any problems. My son has a Toyota that has done 278,000 miles (450,000 km) without any engine problems whatsover and is still running strong with minimal oil consumption. If my i30 replicates this - that'll do me fine.

[Phil №❶]

I feel better now 

Ok, what is your opinion of the new Castrol Edge Engine Oil - 0W-40 "Titanium"

..Supercheap Auto are asking $84.95 for the 0W-40 yet they sell the "Titanium" 5W-40 for $74.95. In your opinion, is it worth paying the extra 10 bucks or should I drop back to the 5W-40 or, should I even be thinking of using a different brand all together?

Thanks in advance.... 

Well as you know this was replied to but the posts were lost in a server hiccup.
You also asked how the two newer Castrol oils compare to the original Edge 0w40 in a lost post.

In essence this is what I said....
The three oils line up like ducks in a row in this order of thinnest to thickest.

_Oil____________100^o______40^o____HT/HS____PP_____VI
Titanium 0w40      13.1           79.0           3.6           -60        167.8 (calculated)
Org Edge 0w40     13.5           79.3           3.7           -54        174.3 (calculated)
Titanium 5w40      14.0           83.7           3.8           -42        172.9 (calculated)

If I were to choose one of these Castrols I'd probably go for Titanium 0w40 it being a little thinner than the original but still with a robust HT/HS number of > 3.5 (which it needs to be to be called ACEA B4). The 5w40 I'm guessing is just a little thicker than needed unless you are really flogging it. You can clearly see the relationship between cold viscosity and Pour Point. In fact you can clearly see the interrelationship of all these figures.

The price/value? I'd pay $10 more for an oil I thought was better. It's just $10 after all.

Just for comparison:
Mobil 1 0w40       13.5          75.0           3.8           N/A       185.0 (provided and confirmed)
Shell Helix 5w40  13.1          74.4           3.7           -39         179.3 (calculated)

Based on these figures Mobil 1 it starts off thinner at the cold end and ends up thicker at the hot end (this is good) and this is confirmed with the Viscosity Index figure although the VI is not based on anything above 100^o.  However the high HT/HS figure offers some indication that the ability to resist thinning at temperature continues at least until 150^o.

If considering the Shell do not use Shell Helix Ultra Extra. It's a low SAPS/C3 type oil and best suited to a car with a DPF.
I'd use any of these except perhaps Castrol 5w40 - it's just a tad too thick.

Here are the links to manufacturers' data...

http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf%5C10518_CASTROL_EDGE_0W-40%20A3B4_3374786_2011_09.pdf
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_australia/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/e/EDGE0W40_B1971_05.pdf
http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf%5C10607_CASTROL_EDGE_5W-40%20SN_3774718_2011_09.pdf
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_0W-40.aspx
http://www-static.shell.com/static/aus/downloads/product_data_guide/product_data_guide_complete_2012.pdf

And finally... I bought some Mobil 1 today from Supercheap sale for $76 for my i30 and Castrol 5w30 Titanium for the Getz, $56.

[beerman]

$76 is good.

$125 for 9.46l is better 

$76 is good.

$125 for 9.46l is better 

Yeah I thought of that but I went along to get some other stuff and it was easier than going through ebay. Cost me $10 more.

[beerman]

That's a six pack!

[rustynutz]

Thanks again for that info, pip....