[zero10]

As a Christmas present to myself I have bought a new radio and an amp/sub to fit in my 2010 Elantra Touring GLS (Canadian model) as my stock radio is underwhelming at best and has begun to malfunction.  In preparation for the install I have pulled the stock radio so that I can figure out what I might require, however things are not as good as I had hoped.  I have the single DIN stock radio with a separate clock underneath it.  The radio is mounted in a curved part of the bezel and of course, the guys at the Hyundai factory curved the front of their radio to fit which means my radio will be somewhat recessed once installed    That sucks but it isn't enough to deter me

I have removed the stock radio and inspected the wiring behind it, it looks like this:









There are a few other pictures I didn't link available here:
Elantra Touring Stock Radio - Imgur

As far as I can tell I require the following wiring adapters to install it:
Metra 70-7303 for the radio harness
Metra 40-KI11 for the antenna
Is this right?  Has anybody done this installation with these parts?

Inspecting the Metra harnesses I see that they utilize all of the wires in the 8-pin blocks (the brown one looks like all of the speaker wires, the other perhaps has power and illumination and accessory and such) however they only use a single wire in the 20-pin connector while the factory brings over MANY more than that.  Does anybody have access to a wiring diagram?  What do these other wires do?  What is the 1 wire they take from there?

I'm a bit of an electronics tinkerer and if I can access the outside temperature sensor or the steering wheel controls or anything else there I would really really like to.  I was planning to build my own steering wheel control adapter anyway 

I didn't bother metering everything out since I only had a few minutes to sneak outside and check out the wiring while the kids napped.  Expecting many of these to be things such as the CAN bus I didn't really want to put my multimeter on them lest I interfere with the communications anyway.  I was really hoping somebody might have a pinout or a wiring diagram for this all.

Thanks in advance!

[Phil №❶]

This might help

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[zero10]

Awesome!  That's exactly the diagram I needed.  I wish I had more data on what some of those pins are but I can probably sort it out - the temperature I assume is an analog signal proportional to outside temperature (or +12V through the temperature sensor), remote +/- probably complete the circuit through the resistors in the steering wheel controls and the speed one is a bit of a mystery - I guess I could drag my scope home and watch the signal on that as I doubt it's analog, though it's a bit hard to test at speed since my scope needs good clean A/C power, something my inverter doesn't provide.  I'll check if the temp wire is hooked up in my car (no outside temperature display on my model and I'd like something) and if I have the tools at my disposal at the right times I'll try to sort out the speed pin... though I doubt that my radio will have anything resembling speed dependent volume control.

Any idea what one pin the Metra harness uses from the 20-pin connector?  On that note, any idea what part number or brand the connector housing is so I can order extra pins to hook up the remote wires?  If nobody knows that's cool - I know enough to go ahead with the install and can try to figure some of this out as I go.

I tried to log into hmaservice.com to check the manuals there but it seems some time between the last time I checked (maybe April) and yesterday they made the site pay-to-use 

[Phil №❶]

Limited info on the temp sensor

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Schematics, note circuits shown for with / without external amplifier. Not sure which type you have.

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[zero10]

Thanks so much again - super helpful information!

I just put in an order for those Metra harnesses.  Once they show up I'll pull the pin out of the 20-pin connector, measure it up and see if I can find the right ones on digikey to drop a couple extra pins into the connector so I don't have to cut any factory wires.

I do not have an external amp as far as I know (dealership said I don't and I haven't seen one).  Interesting that there are 2 temperature sensors, and that the one the radio assembly uses is just grounded near it, that is very easy to manage and to test whether I even have one installed.  The steering wheel controls are exactly as I suspected which is very nice, however the illumination wire setup worries me a bit.  They provide both a + and - for illumination, I hope they simply vary the positive voltage and don't do ground-switched PWM or vary the ground potential on the illumination circuit as my radio definitely won't manage that.  I suppose if I'm building a module to interface with the steering wheel controls I could manage that as well but it would be nice if it wasn't necessary.  Do you know any details about the illumination wires?  If not I can test them myself later, I'm just a little neurotic about preparing for things 

Also, the speed wire seems to come from the vehicle speed sensor (really?! right from the sensor? that doesn't sound right!) so as I suspected it won't just be analog, it'll be some kind of variable frequency or variable duty cycle signal.  Probably not worth the hassle since I didn't really have a good use for it aside from some kind of volume control so I'll put that idea aside for now.

[Phil №❶]

I don't think there are any tricks employed in the switch lighting, other than to note that they are led's, all controlled by the instrument light dimmer circuit.

I wouldn't worry too much about the speed wire as the controls are very convenient to use on the steering wheel.

Good luck with your project. 

[The Gonz]

That automatic speed dependent volume feature is completely useless in Firty. If you're going to that much trouble, why not consider interfacing an external electret mic with a trimpot adjustment to provide much better volume control, like noise cancelling headsets but for a reverse effect?

[zero10]

I don't think there are any tricks employed in the switch lighting, other than to note that they are led's, all controlled by the instrument light dimmer circuit.

I wouldn't worry too much about the speed wire as the controls are very convenient to use on the steering wheel.

Good luck with your project. 

I am only worried because they provide a dedicated ground for the illumination circuit, if they vary only the positive side then I would expect the illumination circuit to use the common ground.  Also motivating them to do PWM is the fact that LEDs exhibit variance in brightness especially at low currents between emitters that are uniform at a higher current (say 20mA) and rather than deal with the variance and resultant uneven apparent brightness most implementations use PWM to give the appearance of running LEDs dimmer by just lowering the duty cycle.  Since the illumination input on the radio I'm fitting is basically a digital signal (on/off) it might be fine even with a PWM illumination circuit or it might need some kind of signal adapter, only time will tell.  It may require something even more complicated if they switch the ground side of the LEDs.

As for the vehicle speed sensor and doing any kind of noise cancelling those are completely different in terms of effort and difficulty.  Monitoring a variable frequency signal and periodically stepping up/down the volume as you pass certain frequency set points versus some kind of active signal manipulation and active noise cancelling... The latter is completely beyond me but I think I'd have a fighting chance of getting the former right.  That said, I think it's just too much trouble for what I get back from it.

I haven't got the steering wheel controls fitted on my car yet, when I do the radio installation I am going to break out the remote plug from the back of the deck to somewhere I can reach without removing anything for testing, and I'll also check that I have the right clockspring in my car (I suspect I do since I have factory cruise).  If I have the right clockspring I'll probably order up the switches for my wheel and put that on the project list, but it's definitely further down the road than just the radio/sub installation.

Thanks for all the input guys - I have the right bits on order and a clear idea of how to proceed with the electrical side of this project once the parts show up.

Any tips for getting the interior apart?  I've had the A pillar trim off to get wiring up to the roof for my dashcam, and I know how to get the radio surround out but I've never had the door sills, B pillar or hatch trim apart to get in there to run wiring.

[zero10]

I've made some progress - amp and sub box are here and tested, the new radio has arrived and the wiring harness adapter has arrived and I have spliced it together.  I'm just waiting for the antenna adapter to arrive tomorrow so I can start the installation.

The Metra 70-7303 includes both the 20-pin and 2x8-pin housings, though it does only have one pin fitted to the 20-pin housing and that is the factory amp remote turn-on wire, so if you have a factory amplifier it can still be used.  I yanked the pin from that housing and measured it up, the pin seems to be a TE 964267 (964267-2 TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser), and the housing is an ISO 10487 housing, though I can't find anywhere to order them on their own.  We will be putting together a mouser / RS order hopefully within the next month and I'll try to sneak some of these pins into that order so that I can interface with the steering wheel controls and the temperature sensor.

[Dazzler]

  Sounds good, hope it all goes well for you! 

[Phil №❶]

I'm glad you know what you're doing, 0-10. 

Keep up the good work. 

[zero10]

So I started the installation last night - it was a bit more hassle than I expected but everything turned out okay.  I forgot about the single screw at the back (under the top tray) of the centre stack which caused me some frustration (because I forgot you had to close the lid to remove the top tray so I kept trying with it open and finally decided it was fixed to the centre stack), but once the top tray popped out and I found that screw it all went rather quickly.  I had some hassles getting the wiring tucked in behind and below the new radio nicely.  I wish I had gone with a mechless unit to save a bit of depth but when I made the order I didn't even know they existed.

New radio's blue colour matches the dash lighting perfectly (unlike the old one) and unlike the old radio when the display is dimmed it actually matches the lowest level of the dash lighting.  It doesn't adapt as you turn the brightness knob on the dash but I don't care since I never move the knob from the dimmest position.  The old factory radio was easily twice as bright as the dash lights and was really quite bad for interfering with my night vision.

I haven't run the wiring to the amp/sub yet, I'll tackle that another night once I've bought some right-angle RCA cables (there isn't enough room behind the radio for straight ones).

I checked the pins at the grey plug inside the dash.  Although I have a wire in the position where the temperature sensor should be there appears to be nothing on the other end of it.  No voltage shows with the key on, measuring resistance from it to ground shows open circuit.  I'll check the front end of the car another day to see if there is a sensor fitted there or just some wires dangling.  Perhaps I can simply add the sensor 

So for now the radio is installed and working great - it is so nice to actually be able to read the name of the track it's playing, and the streaming from my phone really isn't that bad.  It takes about 15 seconds to pair, random mode doesn't work and it doesn't display track info but maybe those things can be fixed.

Here's a couple pictures of the process.  I had to remove the stock radio cage completely which makes me worry a bit because my new radio is essentially just hanging on the plastic.  I might break out the dremel and modify the old cage to allow the new one to fit inside it, then slot them together when I do the amp/sub install for extra support.  Also, the buttons on the bottom row are very difficult to push because of the huge lip on the dashboard immediately below the radio.  Only the track forward/back buttons are there on this radio so once I fit the steering wheel controls this will be a non-issue.


Here is me thinking I was almost done


Nope!  You have to pull the centre stack and remove the old radio cage


In it's new home


Almost a perfect fit


Looks pretty nice

[eye30]

And how does it sound?

[zero10]

And how does it sound?

I didn't change the factory speakers so I wasn't expecting a huge change.  The equalizer on this radio seems to do a much better job of adjusting the bands that my ears care about, after fiddling with it a bit I feel that when listening to FM radio it does sound a bit better.  When listening to MP3s there is a much more noticeable difference in sound quality but I feel that a lot of that is just because the stock radio sucked at decoding variable bitrate MP3s.  It had a problem where it would skip and stutter sometimes and occasionally it just wouldn't play files for me.  I haven't encountered this at all with the Kenwood unit.

Bluetooth streaming from my phone is noticeably compressed, but not nearly as bad as I had expected it to be, I had used cheap A2DP-3.5mm adapters with stereos before and they were all total crap.  This is much better than that but I'd still prefer to just use USB drives when I can.  It's just nice in a pinch to have the ability to stream music off my phone.

[eye30]

Cheers

[Hati]

I'm surprised you didn't go for a double DIN head unit. The facia can be sourced from eBay, at least here in Oz. I did a thread on replacing mine and adding dash cam, reverse cam and a slim active sub under the passenger seat. The DD head unit had enough amplification not to worry about a separate amp and the sub made wonders to base sound quality.


As long as you are happy with your conversion

[zero10]

I'm surprised you didn't go for a double DIN head unit. The facia can be sourced from eBay, at least here in Oz. I did a thread on replacing mine and adding dash cam, reverse cam and a slim active sub under the passenger seat. The DD head unit had enough amplification not to worry about a separate amp and the sub made wonders to base sound quality.

As long as you are happy with your conversion

Double din starts to blow my budget pretty badly.  I also don't want a theft target and wanted to retain the high radio position for visibility.
The total cost for this was pretty reasonable:
$136 for the headunit (Kenwood KDC-BT855U)
$31 for the radio and antenna harnesses shipped to my door
$260 for the sub and amp (Alpine MRP-M500 and 10" type E)

I feel like for a single-din solution I have a really decent radio.

Fascia adapters add some cost (close to $100 if I recall correctly) and double din head units that don't suck are decent money (probably $300-$400 for a good head unit).  That would bring my total cost up from $427 to more like $750.  I can't afford to throw that kind of money on something that has no more value to me. 

I don't care about backup cameras, I have a separate dashcam already (Blackvue DR-400G-HD) and I really really hate resistive touchscreens.

I just wanted a radio that didn't randomly skip into other input modes, would give me track information and had a high pass filter for the mains with separate sub output so that i could add a sub and crank it up (when I feel like it) without destroying my speakers.  Also, slim subs don't quite perform as well as I am looking for.  The sub and amp I have are about the minimum I was looking for, though the amp is hardly being worked (it's only running at 4 ohm) so if I feel it isn't enough I just need a new 2 ohm sub, the box is plenty big and the amp has power to spare.

[Hati]

Fair enough. Pretty good setup for the money indeed

[zero10]

Does anybody know how to remove the A/C duct from the back of the glove box housing?  I was removing it to run some RCA cables across the back of the crash beam and I can't seem to get that stupid tube free from the glove box housing.  I tried sliding it up and down and to the side, I felt all around for clips to release it and nothing has worked yet.

I have now run power cables from the hatch to the A-pillar on the driver's side, and I got the RCAs up into the dash, I just need to get the power cable all the way to the battery, remote turn on wire to the radio, handsfree microphone wire to the radio and the RCAs over there and this install will be done

[zero10]

I managed to drop the glove box housing just enough to sneak my hand in above it and ziptie the RCA cable where I wanted it.  Never did figure out how to get that duct off but it doesn't matter now.

I found a couple other threads on here talking about power cable routing from the passenger compartment through to the engine bay, and they all mentioned to go through a small unused grommet in the kick panel / lower A-pillar area.  I am wondering why people are choosing to do this and risk introducing a water leak into the passenger compartment (or other issues) when it is so easy to use the factory location just a couple inches above?  I was able to remove the tape wrapping the factory harness there and the boot was so much bigger than the wiring run through it that I could easily fit a finger through the boot as well.  Using that to help guide I was able to push my power wire through the factory boot, then just replaced the tape and ziptiped to the factory harness to get to the headlamp area.  I only ran a #8 power cable however there was easily enough room for a #4 or maybe even larger.

The only issue I have now is that I have 1 screw left over.  I am usually very careful about keeping track of where screws come from so that they can go back however this project was stretched over a couple of weeks and as a result I cannot recall where this screw came from.  I'll post a picture of it later (as well as some finished pics of the install) - hopefully somebody will recognize it.

[Phil №❶]

Good to have so much of that job behind you now, Pics will be great. 

[zero10]

Just a quick pic of the box/amp in the hatch:



I'm pretty happy with the sound so far.  After fiddling with it for a couple days I can say that running the factory speakers with a high pass filter set at about 100Hz and a more powerful, cleaner amp (the kenwoood deck's amp is way better than the stock radio's) the sound quality has improved massively.  The factory speakers actually sound really good and I see no reason to upgrade them now.

Turning the sub on fills in everything below 100Hz very nicely and I can turn that up more than loud enough to make my ears hurt and everything inside the car rattle.  I have noticed that my headliner vibrates up and down a couple of cm in the middle, an alarming amount really.  The sub box is ported but the port is hidden on the other side of the box behind my emergency blankets (after being stranded in -40*C for many hours with no heat you learn to carry emergency blankets).


Here is my mystery screw - I found it in the passenger side parts pile so I feel like I must have removed it when taking out one of the following:
Glove box
Dash end cap
Glove box housing
Centre stack


Any idea where this goes?  I don't see any obvious screw holes.  It is much bigger than the pointy sheet metal type screws that hold most parts of the dash together.

[Phil №❶]

Naturally, I can't say where the screw is located. It is a fairly fine threaded metal screw, used as a fastener for either a metal device, or structural bracket they can be tightened firmly to give strength. The pointy course threaded (Parker-Kalon) or PK screws are usually used to lightly fasten dash plastic together, mostly screwing into a clip, fastened to the dash plastic so that the thread is not stripped. In really cheap cars, the clip is not used and after a couple of uses, the plastic thread strips and well, you can guess the rest. 

[DarkNight_DS]

Ok, I want to change the radio in my 2009 Elantra Touring (Canadian model) that has the same radio/clock setup as Zero10.

How do you remove the radio?  I haven't found a guide on what's required to remove the deck for the canadian version that is still accessible anywhere online. 

How did you end up removing the center stack?

Also where can I find the front double din facia that Hati mentions?  I'd like to put a double din deck in my car.

If you guys help me with the details, I'll post pictures of the entire build process costs etc to this thread!

[Hati]

I beat you to the changover thread with photos : How to change the one thing I hate about my i30


If you have the box on the top of the dash, you will need to remove that first. 4 screws hold it, just get the rubber mat out first. Then simply pop the reminder off. All the wiring for the controls is on plugs, easy to disconnect.


If you don't have the box (by the way the dual DIN facia will have you lose it anyway), stick a small screwdriver under the edge of the centre cover at the top of the dash. You can lift it enough to stick you fingers under it and pop it out gently.


Replied to your PM regarding sourcing the cover.

[DarkNight_DS]

@Hati: The Bezel in your pictures is the one I would require as well.   I have the storage box at the top of my dash.

I've had no luck on ebay so far.  I found a few bezels with the wrong setup for the fan/ac controls though.  Thinking I might just get a single din stereo instead.  I bookmarked a seller on ebay who has the wiring harnesses and a dual din/single din mounting bracket.  I've had the car since September of 09.  I am planning on holding onto it for at least another 5 years.  The stock radio is just awful.  Only thing I don't like about the car.

Has anyone changed the stock speakers in the doors on the car on the site?

[DarkNight_DS]

I found a double din replacement bezel on ebay. I was searching for the "Elantra Touring" I should have looked for the "i30"

Phonocar 3 592 Mascherina Autoradio 2DIN Hyundai I30 Cornice Adattatore Radio |

Would like to find a seller who is a bit more local though.

[Hati]

Yeah, I changed the front speaker to a pair of 3 ways. Sound clarity is much better. Didn't bother with the rear lot. Pretty sure there is a thread here detailing the swap.

[Balinus]

Sorry to "resurrect" this thread  but I plan to do the same thing (changing the stock unit) and I wonder what wiring harness I need for it. I've read that you used the Metra 70-7303? Is that right? I'm asking because on crutchfield.ca website it does say that this wiring harness is not compatible with the 2010 Elantra Touring, they suggest the 70-1784. But by looking at both harness the only thing that seems to differ is the lack of 20-pin connector on the 70-1784.

anyhow, just wanted to know if it worked with the 70-7303 as I ordered that part....

Thanks for any info!