Smoking tires and acceleration issues with my new i30cw 1.6 CRDI

chinpakt · **April 11, 2009, 03:37:30**

Hi all,

I hope you could help.

Since I got my new car on Tuesday, I have been having some issues with it. At times, I just cannot seem to accelerate and the rev keeps to 3000rpm. Also, it seems like when I am at a stop and attempt to move, I hear creaking noises from the front wheels like the brakes were on. Today, when I reached home, the front 2 tires were smoking.

What is wrong? I tried calling up Hyundai dealers and all are not open today.Is it safe to drive the car, at least to the nearest service center when they open on Tuesday?

Cheers!

chinpakt · **Reply #1: April 11, 2009, 06:22:57**

Quote from: chinpakt on April 11, 2009, 03:37:30

Since I got my new car on Tuesday, I have been having some issues with it. At times, I just cannot seem to accelerate and the rev keeps to 3000rpm. Also, it seems like when I am at a stop and attempt to move, I hear creaking noises from the front wheels like the brakes were on. Today, when I reached home, the front 2 tires were smoking.

What is wrong? I tried calling up Hyundai dealers and all are not open today.Is it safe to drive the car, at least to the nearest service center when they open on Tuesday?

Just an update. As I mentioned in my initial post, I could not get any Hyundai service centre folks as it was past 12pm on a Saturday. I then decided to try a few dealerships in Perth, whom were a few hours behind. Managed to speak to a service technician whom advised to get roadside assistance to come over to have a look. Called up RACV and they sent a guy over.

He had a look at the wheels and said that there were no obstructions and said that the smoke could be the burning off of some of the black stuff they spray on the tyres to make them look black and shiny. Nothing to worried but best to get in touch with a Hyundai service centre, he said.

**Reply #2: April 11, 2009, 08:50:37**

Quote from: chinpakt on April 11, 2009, 03:37:30

At times, I just cannot seem to accelerate and the rev keeps to 3000rpm.

Can you tell me a bit more abou this rev limiting issue? Is it that the engine revs to this limit, but won't go passed 3000 rpm? If you stop, switch off the motor, wait, then start up again, will it then rev passed 3000 rpm? If so, then I might be able to offer some advice.

Bob

chinpakt · **Reply #3: April 11, 2009, 12:29:24**

Quote from: ouri30 on April 11, 2009, 08:50:37

Can you tell me a bit more abou this rev limiting issue? Is it that the engine revs to this limit, but won't go passed 3000 rpm? If you stop, switch off the motor, wait, then start up again, will it then rev passed 3000 rpm? If so, then I might be able to offer some advice.

Thanks for the help. It just that at times, I seem to lost power of the car. Even though I floor the accelerator, I do not seem to get above about 3000rpm. Is this a known issue? Is it safe to drive the car? Do I need to bring the car in for servicing?

Many thanks!

**Reply #4: April 11, 2009, 12:57:30**

Quote from: chinpakt on April 11, 2009, 12:29:24

Quote from: ouri30 on April 11, 2009, 08:50:37
Can you tell me a bit more abou this rev limiting issue? Is it that the engine revs to this limit, but won't go passed 3000 rpm? If you stop, switch off the motor, wait, then start up again, will it then rev passed 3000 rpm? If so, then I might be able to offer some advice.

Thanks for the help. It just that at times, I seem to lost power of the car. Even though I floor the accelerator, I do not seem to get above about 3000rpm. Is this a known issue? Is it safe to drive the car? Do I need to bring the car in for servicing?

Many thanks!

Ouri30 experienced an issue with rev limiting due to an issue with the fuel filter assembly and sensors. It resulted in the ECU detecting air in the fuel and, as I understand it, went into limp home mode. Rev limit was 2950 rpm. I found that if I stopeed the engine and restarted it, the rev limiting disappeared. It only happed three times and Hyundai diagnosed the problem (in a hand full of cars) and replaced the fuel filter assembly. I am not suggesting you have this issue, but you may have another issue that is sending the ECU into limp home mode. Not that you should be planting your foot to accelerate to the max in a new vehicle anyway. I found (and still do) that you can achieve very good acceleration and speed up to 2950 rpm.

Hope you find the answer to the problems you are experiencing.

Bob

chinpakt · **Reply #5: April 11, 2009, 13:08:39**

Quote from: ouri30 on April 11, 2009, 12:57:30

Ouri30 experienced an issue with rev limiting due to an issue with the fuel filter assembly and sensors. It resulted in the ECU detecting air in the fuel and, as I understand it, went into limp home mode. Rev limit was 2950 rpm. I found that if I stopeed the engine and restarted it, the rev limiting disappeared. It only happed three times and Hyundai diagnosed the problem (in a hand full of cars) and replaced the fuel filter assembly. I am not suggesting you have this issue, but you may have another issue that is sending the ECU into limp home mode. Not that you should be planting your foot to accelerate to the max in a new vehicle anyway. I found (and still do) that you can achieve very good acceleration and speed up to 2950 rpm.

Many thanks, Bob!

chinpakt · **Reply #6: April 12, 2009, 09:18:58**

Hi all,

Just thought I gave you all an update to the problem I mentioned yesterday. I am pretty sure the cause was due to the the stiffness of the break-pad not realeasing fully, thus causing the breaks still to be engaged during the drive. It happened again today where I felt the car slowing down even though I was not pressing on the breaks and it was over a slight downward incline. I just put my toes under the break-pad and lifted it a bit and everything became normal after that. Thus, I believe that I'll just need to drive a bit more and get the stiffness out of the breaks.

Dazzler · **Reply #7: April 12, 2009, 10:22:06**

Quote from: chinpakt on April 12, 2009, 09:18:58

Hi all,

Just thought I gave you all an update to the problem I mentioned yesterday. I am pretty sure the cause was due to the the stiffness of the break-pad not realeasing fully, thus causing the breaks still to be engaged during the drive. It happened again today where I felt the car slowing down even though I was not pressing on the breaks and it was over a slight downward incline. I just put my toes under the break-pad and lifted it a bit and everything became normal after that. Thus, I believe that I'll just need to drive a bit more and get the stiffness out of the breaks.

Everything cool again!

Get it sorted under warranty - could overheat and become a safety issue

Shambles · **Reply #8: April 12, 2009, 11:16:05**

Quote from: dazzling_darryl on April 12, 2009, 10:22:06

Get it sorted under warranty - could overheat and become a safety issue

I'll second that. New car or not, the brake problem is a safety issue and cannot be left to chance (or time).

chinpakt · **Reply #9: April 12, 2009, 11:48:29**

Quote from: Shambles on April 12, 2009, 11:16:05

Quote from: dazzling_darryl on April 12, 2009, 10:22:06
Get it sorted under warranty - could overheat and become a safety issue

I'll second that. New car or not, the brake problem is a safety issue and cannot be left to chance (or time).

Thanks, Darryl and Shambles! I will give the dealership a call on Tuesday. Cheers!

**Reply #10: April 12, 2009, 13:17:01**

I think I saw it reported here... the right hand drive cars transfer the brake pedal to the other side via a long rod/bar across the firewall and the bearings for that rod can be misaligned causing a bind. It manifests as the brake holding for some time after application instead of releasing immediately. I imagine if the bind is great enough the brake might remain applied long enough to overheat which can in turn causes the brake fluid to get hot enough to expand ever so slightly, which applies the brake even more etc...

If you saw smoking, then the brakes might have been very hot, possibly causing the rotors to warp and the pads to polish. What I'm implying is that you should do your best to ensure that both the rotors and the pads are thoroughly inspected and replaced or repaired as is necessary.

chinpakt · **Reply #11: April 12, 2009, 13:52:38**

Quote from: Pip on April 12, 2009, 13:17:01

I think I saw it reported here... the right hand drive cars transfer the brake pedal to the other side via a long rod/bar across the firewall and the bearings for that rod can be misaligned causing a bind. It manifests as the brake holding for some time after application instead of releasing immediately. I imagine if the bind is great enough the brake might remain applied long enough to overheat which can in turn causes the brake fluid to get hot enough to expand ever so slightly, which applies the brake even more etc...

If you saw smoking, then the brakes might have been very hot, possibly causing the rotors to warp and the pads to polish. What I'm implying is that you should do your best to ensure that both the rotors and the pads are thoroughly inspected and replaced or repaired as is necessary.

Hi Pip,

Many thanks for the information. That sounds pretty much exactly what I have experienced. Question, is this a known problem to Hyundai Australia or dealerships, and if so, what do I tell them when I call them up? Many thanks!

**Reply #12: April 12, 2009, 14:03:18**

Quote from: chinpakt on April 12, 2009, 13:52:38

Quote from: Pip on April 12, 2009, 13:17:01
I think I saw it reported here... the right hand drive cars transfer the brake pedal to the other side via a long rod/bar across the firewall and the bearings for that rod can be misaligned causing a bind. It manifests as the brake holding for some time after application instead of releasing immediately. I imagine if the bind is great enough the brake might remain applied long enough to overheat which can in turn causes the brake fluid to get hot enough to expand ever so slightly, which applies the brake even more etc...

If you saw smoking, then the brakes might have been very hot, possibly causing the rotors to warp and the pads to polish. What I'm implying is that you should do your best to ensure that both the rotors and the pads are thoroughly inspected and replaced or repaired as is necessary.

Hi Pip,

Many thanks for the information. That sounds pretty much exactly what I have experienced. Question, is this a known problem to Hyundai Australia or dealerships, and if so, what do I tell them when I call them up? Many thanks!

Read this thread...
https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,2878.msg26627.html#msg26627

chinpakt · **Reply #13: April 12, 2009, 14:12:54**

Quote from: Pip on April 12, 2009, 14:03:18

Read this thread...
https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,2878.msg26627.html#msg26627

Hi Pip, link does not seem to work...brings me back to this post...

Shambles · **Reply #14: April 12, 2009, 14:15:05**

I think Pip meant to link to this thread

Good find Pip

chinpakt · **Reply #15: April 12, 2009, 14:21:35**

Quote from: Shambles on April 12, 2009, 14:15:05

I think Pip meant to link to this thread

Good find Pip

Thanks, Pip and Shambles...will contact the dealership on Tuesday. Cheers!

LuciferDarklord · **Reply #16: April 12, 2009, 14:47:49**

Tell them to replace the rotors, pads and wheel bearing grease too (preferably the whole bearings with new grease). They'd all have taken a nice cooking. Not a nice way to start out with a brand new car...

chinpakt · **Reply #17: April 12, 2009, 14:56:03**

Quote from: LuciferDarklord on April 12, 2009, 14:47:49

Tell them to replace the rotors, pads and wheel bearing grease too (preferably the whole bearings with new grease). They'd all have taken a nice cooking. Not a nice way to start out with a brand new car...

Hi Lucifer, many thanks for the reply. Is this going to be a reasonable demand?

**Reply #18: April 12, 2009, 15:02:23**

Quote from: Shambles on April 12, 2009, 14:15:05

I think Pip meant to link to this thread

Buggar

LuciferDarklord · **Reply #19: April 13, 2009, 08:04:31**

Quote from: chinpakt on April 12, 2009, 14:56:03

Quote from: LuciferDarklord on April 12, 2009, 14:47:49
Tell them to replace the rotors, pads and wheel bearing grease too (preferably the whole bearings with new grease). They'd all have taken a nice cooking. Not a nice way to start out with a brand new car...

Hi Lucifer, many thanks for the reply. Is this going to be a reasonable demand?

At the very bare minimum, get them to replace the pads, they are probably glazed. Check the look of the rotors, if you see any 'bluing' or discolouration at all, jump up and down and tell them to replace the rotors, and while they are at it put in new bearings. If there was enough heat in the rotors to make them change colour, the bearing grease would have been heated up too. I dont know about this particular vehicle but normally the bearings are located in the rotor so they would have to remove the bearing shells from your old rotors, might as well just put new ones in. Also, if there is discolouration, might be a good idea to have the brake fluid replaced too, as it would have been nuked by the pads.

chinpakt · **Reply #20: April 14, 2009, 11:29:37**

Quote from: LuciferDarklord on April 12, 2009, 14:47:49

At the very bare minimum, get them to replace the pads, they are probably glazed. Check the look of the rotors, if you see any 'bluing' or discolouration at all, jump up and down and tell them to replace the rotors, and while they are at it put in new bearings. If there was enough heat in the rotors to make them change colour, the bearing grease would have been heated up too. I dont know about this particular vehicle but normally the bearings are located in the rotor so they would have to remove the bearing shells from your old rotors, might as well just put new ones in. Also, if there is discolouration, might be a good idea to have the brake fluid replaced too, as it would have been nuked by the pads.

Hi, many thanks for the reply. I will speak with the technician about replacing the pads. Not sure what the rotors are...are they the round shinny thingy inside the wheel? If so, there is not discoloration at all. I will check again tomorrow morning. Cheers!

**Reply #21: April 14, 2009, 14:00:57**

Quote from: chinpakt on April 14, 2009, 11:29:37

Not sure what the rotors are...are they the round shinny thingy inside the wheel?

Yep

middy · **Reply #22: April 16, 2009, 01:06:21**

Quote from: Shambles on April 12, 2009, 14:15:05

I think Pip meant to link to this thread

Good find Pip

Just came across this thread and was about to post the same link to my post, but I see Pip has already found it. This problem will be in Hyundai's maintenance database. There will be at least two references to it in there as it is how my dealer eventually diagnosed the problem. Pip is correct in that the right hand drive vehicles have a long rod (pole is probably a more accurate description as the dealer indicated it was at least 40 mm in diameter) that runs across the vehicle behind the dashboard. The bushings at each end, that the pole pivots in, can be slightly out of alignment making the pole bind and stick, thus not releasing the brakes fully. Since my problem was fixed the brakes have been working great with no problems.

chinpakt · **Reply #23: April 16, 2009, 23:30:46**

Quote from: middy on April 16, 2009, 01:06:21

Just came across this thread and was about to post the same link to my post, but I see Pip has already found it. This problem will be in Hyundai's maintenance database. There will be at least two references to it in there as it is how my dealer eventually diagnosed the problem. Pip is correct in that the right hand drive vehicles have a long rod (pole is probably a more accurate description as the dealer indicated it was at least 40 mm in diameter) that runs across the vehicle behind the dashboard. The bushings at each end, that the pole pivots in, can be slightly out of alignment making the pole bind and stick, thus not releasing the brakes fully. Since my problem was fixed the brakes have been working great with no problems.

Thanks Middy! I have booked in for a service the Wed week. Let's hope that the issue will be fixed for good.

i30girl07 · **Reply #24: April 16, 2009, 23:37:31**

Look Under this same forum at Acceleration problem. There have been many responses to the issue of the 3000rpm problem. See if that helps you in anyway and if so let me know cause Hyundai is still trying to find the issue for me!

Dazzler · **Reply #25: April 17, 2009, 11:34:35**

Quote from: i30girl07 on April 16, 2009, 23:37:31

Look Under this same forum at Acceleration problem. There have been many responses to the issue of the 3000rpm problem. See if that helps you in anyway and if so let me know cause Hyundai is still trying to find the issue for me!

That's crazy .. it is definitely related to the fuel filter assembly .. refer them to this forum.. we'll set em' straight (well "Our130...A.K.A. Bob) will anyway...

**Reply #26: April 19, 2009, 09:33:53**

Quote from: Dazz on April 17, 2009, 11:34:35

Quote from: i30girl07 on April 16, 2009, 23:37:31
Look Under this same forum at Acceleration problem. There have been many responses to the issue of the 3000rpm problem. See if that helps you in anyway and if so let me know cause Hyundai is still trying to find the issue for me!

That's crazy .. it is definitely related to the fuel filter assembly .. refer them to this forum.. we'll set em' straight (well "Our130...A.K.A. Bob) will anyway...

It's probably the brake binding issue, but if not, then something is causing the motor to go into limp home mode.

Just a thought. If it were the brake binding, then I'd expect the motor to loose power completely and shut off fuel supply to the engine. Remember the feature that got Thumper stired up and caused him to threaten to sell his i30 as he couldn't brake and accelerate similtaniously. As I see it, if the brake does not release, then the motor would stop under attemptrf acceleration. That is, unless the braking that occurs does not activate this feature.

Bob

**Reply #27: April 19, 2009, 12:16:11**

Quote from: Dazz on April 17, 2009, 11:34:35

That's crazy .. it is definitely related to the fuel filter assembly ..

Maybe similar symptoms but the ECU is unlikely to activate the brakes in "limp home mode". Don't forget the smoke from the front wheels.

Dazzler · **Reply #28: April 19, 2009, 13:02:55**

Quote from: Pip on April 19, 2009, 12:16:11

Quote from: Dazz on April 17, 2009, 11:34:35
That's crazy .. it is definitely related to the fuel filter assembly ..
Maybe similar symptoms but the ECU is unlikely to activate the brakes in "limp home mode". Don't forget the smoke from the front wheels.

Yes, but I thought i30girl07 only had the not revving past 3000RPM issue...

**Reply #29: April 19, 2009, 15:00:47**

Quote from: Dazz on April 19, 2009, 13:02:55

Quote from: Pip on April 19, 2009, 12:16:11
Quote from: Dazz on April 17, 2009, 11:34:35
That's crazy .. it is definitely related to the fuel filter assembly ..
Maybe similar symptoms but the ECU is unlikely to activate the brakes in "limp home mode". Don't forget the smoke from the front wheels.

Yes, but I thought i30girl07 only had the not revving past 3000RPM issue...

Yep, see the confusion. i30girl07 has a different problem (I assume) to that mentioned by the OP.