[Dazzler]

@sundiz Glad it is fixed.. Pity about the highway robbery! Don't you hate being ripped off! I do! 

[sundiz]

I jacked the front up and had a wrestling match with the left tyre. After a while I was able to create a small knock. Im gonna ask few shop what the charge for whole left tie rod (inner and outer) + wheel alingment. If the prices are more reasonable than with hy, I'm going for it. If not, then it is koraps +DIY. Inner ones looked to be out enough so you should be able to access them without dropping the subframe. Especially with inner tie rod removal tool. Im gonna change the outer tie rod also at the same time. With my luck it would break after the alingment, if I only fixed the broken inner tie rod.

[steinrk]

Does anyone have the pictures from the first post? It looks like they are all gone 
I need to change my EGR valve and are very interested in the pictures.

[sundiz]

All lost because of the photobuckets new policies.

[The Gonz]

Maybe this will be your fallback...

change egr valve hyundai i30 - Google Search

[sundiz]

I had some issues with the parking brake for some time. It got loose even I adjusted the brake shoes and cables several times. Decided to get new shoes as right rear wheel did not work well at all. Found out that the shoes were worn out uneven. After removing the shoes I noticed that the metallic link between the cable and the brakeshoes was completely stuck. Had to remove it and place it to workbench and hammer it loose. 5 min of hammering and half can of wd40 made the link finally opened up. I guess salt and dirt had made it rusty and crusty. Cleaned with a metal brush and lubricated it with brake grease. Works now like a charm. Did same service to left side link. It was tight, but still moved. Now the rear wheels lock on tarmac. Took the car to the MOT and there were no difference between left and right side. It was such a dirty job and I did not want to get that stuff on my phone, so unfortunately no photos. It took 3 hours with the right side to figure best methods for the work. After that it was easy to do the left side. That took only 1,5 hours from start to end.

Also got a new windscreen. It feels like the traffic is now in HD. 150tkm and 10 years was enough for the old glass.

Still need coolant and brake fluid change. Also new battery for the winter would be good. Current battery is 7 years old.  Might also try to change the powersteering bushing. I think there is some play in it. After that I should have care free motoring for some time. Until something new comes up...

[Dazzler]

Interesting stuff sundiz. Thanks for that. Your climate and road salting is hard on cars! We don't know how lucky we are! 

[Paolo5]

Thanks Sundiz....always great to read your posts...

[sundiz]

Took some lower parts of the dash out and looked more about the power steering. There is a really small play, but for me it feels like it is in the joint. I snug all nuts and bolts, but it is still there. For now I'll leave it as it is. If it gets worse, I'll do some more research.

Changed brake & clutch fluid. Fairly new brakes and new fluid made a noticeable improvement in the feel of the brake pedal. Also changed the coolant.

The hand brake lever in the brake drum (mentioned in previous post) in my car is part number 58257-1H000. Only costs 4.6$ from Korea. If someone is going to fix their hand brake, I would recommend getting also new levers. Especially if you drive in salty and dirty conditions.

[tw2005]

Took some lower parts of the dash out and looked more about the power steering. There is a really small play, but for me it feels like it is in the joint. I snug all nuts and bolts, but it is still there. For now I'll leave it as it is. If it gets worse, I'll do some more research.

Changed brake & clutch fluid. Fairly new brakes and new fluid made a noticeable improvement in the feel of the brake pedal. Also changed the coolant.

The hand brake lever in the brake drum (mentioned in previous post) in my car is part number 58257-1H000. Only costs 4.6$ from Korea. If someone is going to fix their hand brake, I would recommend getting also new levers. Especially if you drive in salty and dirty conditions.

Is it clunking in normal use or when you rock the steering back and forth quickly when parked?

Keep in mind that plastic coupler bush as it starts to deteriorate it will clunk in that section and when completely destroyed it'll be a distinctive knock and have play as it was in my most recent case.











aug 2012, 99000km, factory built in 2011 i30CW. it was goo just about

[nzenigma]

 

[sundiz]

I can only hear it when car is parked and engine is off and wiggle the steering wheel from side to side. When driving, I don't hear or feel any play. When I grabbed the lower part of powersteering shaft and turned the steering wheel I felt like the shaft and the steering wheel were solid. I was not able to feel any play in the movement of the shaft and wheel. When I grab the joint near the floor and turn the steering wheel I can feel  a small play. One other guy came to look it while I was working with the car. He also said that he can't find any play in the actual powersteering shaft but felt the small knock when he hold the joint near the floor.

The small clunk has been there for a while and it has not gotten any worse. Nothing like those videos on youtube where they change the bushing.

[nzenigma]

One other guy came to look it while I was working with the car. He also said that he can't find any play in the actual powersteering shaft but felt the small knock when he hold the joint near the floor.

Thats the trap for the uninitiated. Eventually you do the bush and cure the problem.
if its that minor at the moment leave it. Experience tells me that if the steering bush is starting to break down it will destroy itself over the following 6-12 months.

[sundiz]

I'll have to keep my eye on it for now. Unfortunately the temps dropped down and my garage is too small to keep door fully opened. I'll hope it lasts till spring.  It is pain in the butt work outside when temps are near freezing or below... Once changed the fuel pump to my old merc in -25'C. That was brutal...

[nzenigma]

Mate, I think enthusiasm is taking over practicality here.   

At a guess, I am the only member who has ever removed and replaced a sub-frame, albeit on an FD crdi.

To do it without without using an engine hoist is daunting.

I needed to replace a damaged frame and considered leaving the rack on the car; but it was so hard to get at, I left it attached to the frame and removed it when frame was on the ground.

I think you mentioned that a mechanic claims a tie rod is nearing extinction?? Is that the play you are feeling?

A small amount of play is acceptable.
Yesterday, I worked on an Isuzu ute that had excess play in the rack. That translated to 5mm play = toe in/out on the tyre. But, the ute had 350,000 km on the clock!!  I still didn't consider it dangerous, a major drama, nor worth the effort of repair.

Enjoy the snow.

[sundiz]

The tie rod was changed at local mechanic. Took the car to MOT and the inspector said that the chassis seems to be in good condition. I'll have toto wait next paycheck and get a new battery. Not gonna take a risk with my 7 year old battery. Especially now when I have working glowplugs draining current.

[Dazzler]

The tie rod was changed at local mechanic. Took the car to MOT and the inspector said that the chassis seems to be in good condition. I'll have toto wait next paycheck and get a new battery. Not gonna take a risk with my 7 year old battery. Especially now when I have working glowplugs draining current.

7 years is excellent for your harsh environment. 

[nzenigma]

 

The tie rod was changed at local mechanic. Took the car to MOT and the inspector said that the chassis seems to be in good condition. I'll have toto wait next paycheck and get a new battery. Not gonna take a risk with my 7 year old battery. Especially now when I have working glowplugs draining current.

7 years is excellent for your harsh environment. 

 

New battery would be my priority too 

[sundiz]

I think my smartchargers have earned their prices in battery prices. After getting those, batteries in family cars have been in much better condition. I usually charge the battery with a smartcharger every 2-3 months. During winter every month. I also use one or two times a year "recond" charge which they claim to help preventing and removing sulfur build up from the battery plates. I also have fixed smartcharger in my car. Every time I plug my car to electricity for preheating it charges the battery at the same time. Still 7 years is respectful age. I still have the 10 year old OEM battery as a backup in my garage. Still works, but maybe not suited for every day use.

[nzenigma]

A whole different world up there.
Must admit the winter temps here ( night = 12 deg C) have killed two of my batteries this year.

[tw2005]

A whole different world up there.
Must admit the winter temps here ( night = 12 deg C) have killed two of my batteries this year.

12 degrees,  that cold.

Sure it was not ol mate?

[sundiz]

Having this i30 has been a bit boring for the most of the time. I had to fix my previous cars more often when compared to this one. Finally got something to do...

Unfortunately for me the necessary fixes usually come up during winter time. It is not pleasant to fix car when it is -20*C outside. Luckily I had a semi heated garage in use where the temperature was at least above freezing.

I've heard some weird noises from the engine bay after cold starts, but they went away as soon as the engine reached operating temperature. Last week this metallic ticking sound did not go away even when the engine heated up. Noise came somewhere around the alternator belt. Took the belt out and started checking all the equipment. Found out that the belt tensioner had a loose bearing. Installed new one but the noise was still there. Installed new belt pulleys. Noise was still there...

I went and got a steroscope. Started to listen engine and alternator. Found out that the alternator was the one making that noise. After I got the alternator out I think the reason was pretty obvious. Bearing was totally destroyed.



While I was working there, I decided to change the water pump also. It was pain in the butt, to get that out. Only about 10cm space to get 11cm part out... With busted up knuckles I was able to get it out and get new in. The pump was OK, but the seals had seen better days. I would guess in some near future they would have failed.

Now I have new alternator, water pump, belt and belt tensioner. I don't think my engine has ever been this quiet 

Also we got some cold temps today. It was -25*C when I left work. Cold start videos are a bit boring as I got new glow plugs and new battery for this winter. I must say these "modern" diesels start pretty well in cold temps. 2008 car with 158 tkm.



Unfortunately I was not able to take any pics as my hands were dirty and the lights were poor. But nothing special in the work. Just remove some bolts, take the part out, put new part in and try to put same amount of bolts back...

[tw2005]

Just curious if you checked the clutch pulley and how that was .

[sundiz]

They pulley seemed to be well connected to the alternator axel. The whole axel seemed to move. Also the "fan plate" which is inside the alternator close to the pulley was somehow damaged. It had loosen from the axel and did not rotate properly when turning the axel.

[sundiz]

The inner fan would be explained by worn out clutch pulley, but there were noticetable movement in the whole axel. Could it be that the clutch pulley was broken and damaged the axel? Unfortunately I don't have the old alternator as I had to return it to get my deposit back.

I saw an interesting video from youtube, where they said that the clutch pulleys in some wvs and audis tend to fail after 60-80 000 miles. I'll have to keep that in mind if I still have this car for another 100tkm. 

[sundiz]

Picked up sunglasses from the car and started to wonder why blinkers do not work when trying to lock the doors. The rear door actuators seems to be faulty. Again. These OEM actuators lasted almost a year... For some reason they do not work in cold temps. Crappy desing I quess. I'll hope they start working at least somehow in the spring. I do not feel like spending 100€ for new ones if the life expentacy is around one year.

[Dazzler]

Picked up sunglasses from the car and started to wonder why blinkers do not work when trying to lock the doors. The rear door actuators seems to be faulty. Again. These OEM actuators lasted almost a year... For some reason they do not work in cold temps. Crappy desing I quess. I'll hope they start working at least somehow in the spring. I do not feel like spending 100€ for new ones if the life expentacy is around one year.

Not good!