[Jonesyvt]

  Hello all. For the serious mechanic with the diesel i30. I have just successfully completed a DIY replacement of the fuel pump on my boys 2008 i30. You should only contemplate this job if you have total understanding around the safety issues with high fuel pressures in CRDI fuel systems and how to reduce the pressure to zero before you open the system. SERIOUS INJURIES CAN BE CAUSED TO THE BODY FROM HIGH PRESSURE FUEL OR OIL ESCAPING FROM THESE FUEL SYSTEMS, IT CAN CUT TO THE BONE OR BLIND YOU.

The key item is the special tool to remove the fuel pump shaft from the sprocket in the timing case. Thanks to a fellow i30 owner who lives near me I used the tool he fabricated and the job was straightforward.

Here is the details of the tool, shared with the makers permission:

Purchase a 1/2 inch drive socket with an outside diameter (OD) of 29.5 mm, supercheap sells a 7/8 inch socket that fits this spec exactly for $7. Take it to a machinist with a lathe and have a thread machined on the lower 15mm of the socket of 1.4mm pitch. Buy a 10mm bolt 70mm with a single nut.

Grind a point on the bolt so it has the angle of a drill bit.

Wind about 10 turns of electrical insulation tape around the socket just above the thread. This tool removes the need to take off the engine mount assembly on the drivers side of the engine, as is required with other tools I have seen.

Since the fuel pump has been done the car drives better than it ever has, starts easier and pulls hard to the redline as it should do.

Other points to be aware of:

1. Do not remove the tool once the old fuel pump is out as it locates the sprocket and chain in place, just wind the bolt out a few turns until the new pump is installed, then remove the tool.

2. A new pump can be purchased for less than $300 on eBay, the fuel pressure regulator ( item on pump that has wiring connector) may be different on the replacement pump. If the numbers don't match remove the old one off the old pump and change it over to the new pump. If the pressure is not spot on the motor shuts down and throws a code due to high fuel pressure. Otherwise the pump seems identical and runs perfectly.

3. If you are not sure make the tool and get your mechanic to do the job for you.

If you want more details about the job ask and I can assist with specifics.

Added 19/6 - see links to photo of the simple tool and the old diesel pump.
Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet


Jonesyvt in Perth WA

[The Gonz]

Nice contribution, Jonesy, I'm a fan!

[Dazzler]

 

[Phil №❶]

 

But I won't be tackling that job. 

[diesel1984]

Great job and nice of you that you described the tool you made. But it is useless without pictures.. 

This tool is mounted on timing cover and holding the timing sprocket in place while pump is out.
With this tool you can change pump without removing timing cover or timing chain what is job for about 6-7 hours.

Just wondering why did you changed pump?
Never heard this bosch pumps leaking or something going wrong with them.

[Jonesyvt]

Hello diesel1984, thanks for your comments. I considered pictures but they don't tell the story in my opinion because the pictures don't give the sizes.
This puller does not attach to the timing cover but straight onto the sprockets internal thread.
It just passes through the timing cover opening and screws straight into the sprocket.
Tightening the bolt then applies pressure to the fuel pump shaft to overcome the interference fit on the taper, no key of any kind is used to locate the sprocket on the shaft.
No pressure of any kind is applied to the timing case so no brackets or bolts are required to spread the load around the timing case. The insulation tape is just to protect the timing case thread from any damage.

The fuel pumps are generally very reliable and long lived, however I know of 3 personally that have developed faults, mainly due to poor quality fuel, moisture or sitting idle for long periods. My boys car sat in a panel shop for 18 months before I bought it, it has been faulty for the 2+ years he has driven it. It would regularly lose prime and in the last month the engine would not rev past about 3 grand and the engine light would come on. An obd tester showed low fuel pressure code so the pump was the culprit. Once I had the tool to change the pump I did the job and the car is transformed. He managed to drive 45,000 km on the worn pump however!
I will include a photo of the tool when I get a chance to do it.
When I attempted to obtain a tool last year the only way I could find one was at hyundai and only if they did the whole job for me, about $2k I was told.
Regards, Jonesyvt

[diesel1984]

This puller you made is around 50-80 eur.
http://www.original-genuine-spare-parts.com/a/kia/0933_/093312A000-antriebsradabz_(kia).htm

Hyundai, 093312A000 - partacus.de - original spare parts and accessories

Original part number is 09331-2A000.


3k rev limit is probably with error code P1186?

[Dazzler]

This puller you made is around 50-80 eur.
http://www.original-genuine-spare-parts.com/a/kia/0933_/093312A000-antriebsradabz_(kia).htm

Hyundai, 093312A000 - partacus.de - original spare parts and accessories

Original part number is 09331-2A000.


3k rev limit is probably with error code P1186?

Ironically neither of those adds appear to include a picture either. .

[Asterix]

This puller you made is around 50-80 eur.
http://www.original-genuine-spare-parts.com/a/kia/0933_/093312A000-antriebsradabz_(kia).htm

Hyundai, 093312A000 - partacus.de - original spare parts and accessories

Original part number is 09331-2A000.


3k rev limit is probably with error code P1186?

Ironically neither of those adds appear to include a picture either. .

Google the part number... 

[diesel1984]

Right.

Here it is

[Jonesyvt]

Hello all, I have now include the links to the photos in the original post at the top.
One of the very simple tool and one of the tool with the old fuel pump for you to see.
Have fun. Jonesyvt

[Jonesyvt]

Hello all, the pictures should help fill in a few blanks for you now.
About the codes as mentioned by diesel1984 this is what I have seen.
Low fuel pressure is code P1186 which will cause the engine to go into limp home mode, max 3,000 rpm and low power.
High fuel pressure is code P1185, this will cause the motor to shut down almost immediately after starting. This can occur if the wrong fuel pressure regulator is fitted onto the replacement fuel pump.
I trust this topic helps others in the future. Regards, Jonesyvt

[diesel1984]

P1186 DTC is due to wrong fuel filter installed and is limiting rpm to 3000. Non genuine or filter without center pipe installed.

Alot of people had this code after changing fuel filter to aftermarket including me.
 
There is a topic about this error code.

Also it can be clogged fuel pickup in tank.
..

When you installed new pump back to the engine and removed tool how did you managed to tighten central nut on chain sprocket?
Workshop manual says that you need to remove starter motor and then install flywheel blocking tool. Perhaps screwdriver on flywheel teeth??

This nut must be tightened to 74Nm.

[Jonesyvt]

Hello diesel1984. Thanks for the comments.
I reinstalled the nut holding the sprocket to the fuel pump shaft using a socket with a long arm on it. Having trade experience tightening bolts I did it without blocking the flywheel as you described but to be spot on with the torque setting blocking the flywheel would be the best way to go.
Also ensure the taper on the fuel pump shaft and the mating sprocket section are perfectly clean and dry so the two parts connect with maximum contact.
The engine has run spot on since I did the job, no warning lights or issues except some slow starting on cold mornings. Glow plugs are the next task. I have used non genuine fuel filters on all my 3 diesel i30s in the family with no issues yet.
I did check the fuel tank and lines for dirt or restrictions before I did any of this fuel pump work, all clean as a whistle.
Regards, Jonesyvt

[Jonesyvt]

Hello all, an update on the car since this task was completed.
Done 700km on the new pump now, running great. Filled up last week, average fuel use with the new fuel pump 5.2 litres per 100km, no complaints there!
I still need to install some new glow plugs in the next few weeks.
I use the 2 stroke oil/ shellite mix (see other discussion on forum about overpriced fuel addititive) at 9 to 1 as an additive at 50ml per 50litres of diesel in my 4 diesel vehicles with good results. Smoother running and a slight improvement in fuel economy but most importantly the fuel pump has better wear protection during operation.

Jonesyvt

I think mine has the same problem as this but without any codes. And still runs fine when running.