I searched around and could not find anything specific on this. Guess its the same on most cars, but I just wanna share some pictures today.
The main reason of doing this is to clean out rust, brake dust and relube the glidepins. Easy to replace the pads if needed too. (And we get some much appreciated garage time, wife won't go there
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Some wire brushes, rasp(?), 14mm wrench, flathead screwdriver. Copper paste, high temp silicone grease and brakeclean. A bungee cord for tying the caliper up. Also gonna need a 13/16" socket to get the wheel off and a floor jack. Eye protection and a dustmask are recommended.
Rear we can jack both sides if our floor jack has enough reach. No idea if this is a good spot, but I figured the axle normally holds the cars weight. Might as well use some trestle stands to secure the car. Park in gear(locks front wheels when doing the rear brakes) leave the parking brake slack. Chucks on the front wheels for good measure.
This spot right behind the pinch weld works fine. Parking brake will keep the car from rolling, chucks on rears anyway.
Wheel off, I like putting down some paper on the floor to collect rust and whatnot. Give the caliper a brush where you can to get as much rust of as possible, mind the rubber parts they don't much like wire brushes.
These two 14mm bolts on the back of the caliper need removing (there halfway out in the picture)
Remove the caliper. Front ones come off easily, rear ones might need a little persuasion, like this.
Clean the caliper off with the brushes and hang it up. Fronts we hang in the suspension coils. The rears are easiest to hang through a drain hole in the wheel well cover, feel a little and you'll find it.
Good amount of working space now. Disassemble the pads and holding brackets, screwdriver might come in handy to pry them out, rust and brake dust makes them stick good.
The inner and outer pads are different, keep track of em. I line em up like this, the inner one towards the car. Brackets are the same, but I reinstall them in the same location. Clean em off one by one with the wire brushes, the "teeth" of the pads are the important parts to clean(See the picture where I put on copper paste further down).
I use a rasp to bevel the edges of the pads. Don't know if its needed on the I30, but my Volvo would screech like a siren if the edges weren't beveled, probably relates to pad quality. Its quick, so why not.
Clean the caliper assembly too, the parts where the brackets used to be are usually the dirtiest, make sure to clean the inner side good. Brush of all the dust/rust.
Spray brakeclean on the pads and brackets. Give the rotor a spray to while you're at it, can't hurt.
Check the glide pins, they should glide smoothly. Its quick enough to relube them, to remove them, just pull them clean out.
Dry em off, lube with silicone grease and reinsert them.
Important part is that there is no mineral oil in the grease as that will make the rubber swell. The top and bottom pins are of different models, the top one has more rubber rings around it. Do them one at a time and you won't mix em up. We need to wait for the brakeclean to dry anyway.
Pads should be dry by now. Copper grease on the teeth protects them from rust and makes them easier to remove next time. All around the teeth, take care and try not to touch the pad surface, we don't want any dirt on them and especially no grease.
Reassemble the caliper in the reverse order: Brackets, pads, caliper. The rear calipers can need some persuading to get into place again, refit the 14mm bolts, you will feel when they slide home into the glide pins.
Don't forget to put the wheel back before lowering the jack!
