[tw2005]

Finishing touches, I just connected a basic ACTRON scantool up and sure enough there was a code stored, 0722 - output speed sensor no signal.

Boy I wish I had thought of this for the Mrs to bring down yesterday . 

Cleared the stored fault code and has remained clear.

[tw2005]

The dash display flicker has continued since fixing this. Not related, I've traced it to a worn or dirty drivers door ajar switch

[tw2005]

The dash display flicker has continued since fixing this. Not related, I've traced it to a worn or dirty drivers door ajar switch

I hate being wrong but the flickering is back and the door switch doe not seem to have an effect when wiggled.

starting to think faulty display or bad earth.

[beerman]

Being wrong occasionally is good practice for marrage, where you are constantly wrong 

[The Gonz]

Being wrong occasionally is good practice for marrage, where you are constantly wrong 

Not wrong!

[tw2005]

So time to review this again.  Output sensor going  well.
Holiday time so off to cairns. Day 1 no dramas to Mackay.  Day 2 80k out of townsville  , bang,  harsh shift to 3rd forth lost. I know what this means limp. I don't understand why a fault light does not  come on.

Here we go again.  Last time it went neutral this time turning He car off i get 1st back but triggers limp Once  it starts to shift.

So what's going through my mind plenty.
I'm already predicting shaft speed sensor  and input this time ad i did the output a few weeks ago.

On my desk at home lies the other Mitsubishi sensor I was wondering if I should fit just in case buy decided not to,  what's the chances. ?

Well very likely as it turns out. 

Also  on the desk my multimeter and scantool both I was also considering packing.

Stuck in Townsville in the heat i purchase a bluetooth obd2 tool and use the phone.

Sure as hell input sensor open cct.

Multimeter  confirms.

Of course these are fitted to about 7 hyundai  an kia models over the years.  But do they keep any? No.

Limp for 400k to cairns. On order $200 more to follow

[tw2005]

Struggling to get a signal at tinaroo.

The extra info I want to share is if you go back to the beginning of this thread I mentioned the input sensor connector falling off and having difficulty getting it to latch.

With the current drama I had plenty of time to get a good look.  I can't physically get this to seat.

My conclusion on this is as I've also said before I believe this vehicle has seen extreme high temperatures.

The outer connector shell has is fact shrunk  and nothing is going to allow the 2 to mate correctly. How it's manage to work thus far id luck but this does now explain why it's been coming loose and proving hard to connect.

Afaik they do not carry repair pigtails,  only complete harness  . If i can't find sn aftermarket connector my plan is to track down a Mitsubishi  hatness to cut and splice.  At the moment I have completely cut the sides off to fit this. New part won't arrive from Sydney until Tuesday afternoon.

[Dazzler]

Lucky you are handy on the tools. Would be a bigger money pit for most of us. well done! 

[nzenigma]

With the current drama I had plenty of time to get a good look.  I can't physically get this to seat.

My conclusion on this is as I've also said before I believe this vehicle has seen extreme high temperatures.

The outer connector shell has is fact shrunk  and nothing is going to allow the 2 to mate correctly. How it's manage to work thus far id luck but this does now explain why it's been coming loose and proving hard to connect.

Could this "extreme temperature" be due to the sensor cooking?
 I spent two weeks during a humid summer in Darwin and concluded that the no speed limit on their highways was for health reasons...to aid rapid evacuation to a bearable climate.    Even so, I cant see how the outside temperature could sufficiently exceed the engine bay temperature and cause the damage or various faults you are describing.
I would be looking for an intermittent short in one of your wiring looms.
Could be insulation chaffed on a metal edge or melted during the sensor burn out.

[tw2005]

No signs of burning or heat on the input shaft sensor.  There is evidence of bluing around the contacts but I suspect this would be due to the connector not being seated correctly and the weather seal being compromised.

No evidence of burning at the connector end of the harness, no corrosion, no evidence of burning or melting on the connector body.

The way I'm looking at this is like mr shrinkies.  I don't think 2 weeks in Darwin would do anything.

I'm thinking along the lines of a few years in temps over 40. All the door window seals are blistered and cracked, the gear knob the chrome finish completely gone, leaving the plastic under yellowed and full of hairline cracks.


I've been in the Darwin too for several years and driven up the middle in other vehicles. Certainly never seen a connector shrink. To the naked eye it looked normal however once you tried to fit the sensor it would not remain in the guides, twisted and pop out of position and was about 3mm shy of being fully home..

I even removed the silicon seal thinking that may have been obstructing.

To me the top portion had shrunk and become tapered.

The sensor is close to the trans oil lines which may contribute to extra heat too.

Either way it had changed shape and did not fit, and a very strange situation.

No evidence of chaffing and the harness appears good, no evidence of excess current or melting of the individual wires either.

I'm confident once I reterminate and replace the sensor this should be the end of it.

But for sure if it continues after this down the track I'll be back here discussing it.

Not knowing the history or travels of this car also makes it guesswork too but the only thing I can think that would affect plastic is this way would be heat or solvents and I very much doubt it's solvents. Looks more of a gradual thing has happened.May be one of those one in a million things.

I've cancelled the parts order too. The other Mitsubishi sensor i left at home is going to fit and being expressed up to us.

EFI Hardware in Melbourne have the connector which is listed for an EVO camshaft sensor connector.

Mitsubishi EVO Mivec Cam Sensor 3 Pin Connector   C-03FR4-8EVOCAM-M   $26.40 + freight



One other thing , this sensor has no markings at all which makes me wonder  it's not the original as the output sensor had kia/hyundai markings plus the part number.

[nzenigma]

Yes quite possible that it is not original. They are a Hall effect transducer that most cars use. You will find that you can interchange them from say, cam sensor to crank sensor role, just to prove a fault.
 Unknown history is a problem. I have a D40 Navara that I call 'The Apocalypse' that came to me that way and with motor partially stripped.
Irrespective of the fact that they have a pig of a motor made by Renault, I did not suspect that it had a turbo that leaked volumes of oil into the intercooler. I found that out when the tacho red-lined and the crankshaft blew out the bottom of the engine.
Better luck with your known unknown.

[tw2005]

Happy to confirm the connector mentioned above is 100% correct for the harness repair.

My son sent the other sensor from our F4a51 Mits box and it too bolted in however there was yet another curve ball.

I dare say MIts set these up so you can't mistakenly connect the wrong sensor harness to either  sensor. On the F4A51 they both sit on top of the trans however on the A4CF1/2 box one is at the very rear and the other one on the front right next to the fluid lines.

Anyway the locating guides on this particular sensor are offset compared to the other one which are centred and the ones fitted to the Hyundai.

A sharp blade and I removed the guides , it was then a snug fit into the connector.

Test drive and back to normal.

Hopefully I won't be back here talking about it again.

[Dazzler]

 

[nzenigma]

  as she said

[tw2005]

Atherton - innisfail, innisfail - Atherton, 1 day

 Atherton to mackay, Mackay - Brisbane, Brisbane  - Sydney, Sydney _ Brisbane  , no more limp modes, in last 4 days looking good.

[Dazzler]

Orr Sum! 

[nzenigma]

  Yet another i30 testimonial . 

[Paolo5]

Happy to confirm the connector mentioned above is 100% correct for the harness repair.

Fabulous news!

[tw2005]

No signs of burning or heat on the input shaft sensor.  There is evidence of bluing around the contacts but I suspect this would be due to the connector not being seated correctly and the weather seal being compromised.

No evidence of burning at the connector end of the harness, no corrosion, no evidence of burning or melting on the connector body.

The way I'm looking at this is like mr shrinkies.  I don't think 2 weeks in Darwin would do anything.

I'm thinking along the lines of a few years in temps over 40. All the door window seals are blistered and cracked, the gear knob the chrome finish completely gone, leaving the plastic under yellowed and full of hairline cracks.


I've been in the Darwin too for several years and driven up the middle in other vehicles. Certainly never seen a connector shrink. To the naked eye it looked normal however once you tried to fit the sensor it would not remain in the guides, twisted and pop out of position and was about 3mm shy of being fully home..

I even removed the silicon seal thinking that may have been obstructing.

To me the top portion had shrunk and become tapered.

The sensor is close to the trans oil lines which may contribute to extra heat too.

Either way it had changed shape and did not fit, and a very strange situation.

No evidence of chaffing and the harness appears good, no evidence of excess current or melting of the individual wires either.

I'm confident once I reterminate and replace the sensor this should be the end of it.

But for sure if it continues after this down the track I'll be back here discussing it.

Not knowing the history or travels of this car also makes it guesswork too but the only thing I can think that would affect plastic is this way would be heat or solvents and I very much doubt it's solvents. Looks more of a gradual thing has happened.May be one of those one in a million things.

I've cancelled the parts order too. The other Mitsubishi sensor i left at home is going to fit and being expressed up to us.

EFI Hardware in Melbourne have the connector which is listed for an EVO camshaft sensor connector.

Mitsubishi EVO Mivec Cam Sensor 3 Pin Connector   C-03FR4-8EVOCAM-M   $26.40 + freight



One other thing , this sensor has no markings at all which makes me wonder  it's not the original as the output sensor had kia/hyundai markings plus the part number.

CORRECTION.

Sorry, I just discovered something last night regarding the replacement connector I got. Turns out I'm wrong it won't fit the front sensor on the box due to the locating guide on the sensor being off centre.

I thought it was due to the mitsubishi sensor being different but I just did a powertrain swapover and the OEM Hyundai sensor also has the same off centre as the mits.

So in order to use it, the guides need to be cut off.

[tw2005]

My light bulb lit this morning working on some research for connectors.  Just realising in the Electrical manuals there's enough info to work out the connector types should one need repairing as in this case.

The plug was: Made by KET, Type SSD 3 pin female grey and the locating slots are offset

SSD 3F HOUSING ASSY(B TYPE), MG641295, MG641295S-4






The other type which was the version I got in error, locating slot is centered with the connectors is SSD 3F HOUSING ASSY(B TYPE) MG641234 , MG641234-5









ST730622-3-??????????????

These numbers may only be the housings, no connectors, should be helpful though