One year service was done today @ 14,984Km in 1 year and 20 days.

The Castrol Edge 5w30 was taken out today. It had done 8,300Km. None had been consumed during its life and AFAIK was working ok but I was starting to think the engine sounded just a tad more "rattly" recently so took note of how it sounded as it started and while I drove to the dealer. The new oil has quietened the engine a lot. It's not the same oil so hard to draw any conclusions. The new oil is imported Castrol 0w30 made in Germany and known as "German Castrol" or just GC. Costs about the same as Mobil 1 0w40 at $14 quart. If interested check: performancelub.com

Also mentioned the rack-rattle and click-clack that can be heard when rocking the steering wheel. Jury's out on that. The service manager says he will try to get approval from Hy to replace the rack because from his observation that's where the problem is. He could feel the knock (as the steering wheel was rocked) while grasping both steering arms when up on the hoist which suggested to him the looseness is closer to the rack than the steering wheel which was subject to a TSB that identified an out of tolerance "collar or gear" at the top of the steering column, from memory since we don't have them to view any more.

HALO turned off... don't think I'll miss that.

Forgot to ask him not to alter my tyre pressures and the docket says they did. I'll check them today when I get fuel. I just set them a few days ago so I'll know if they did change them.  Guessing not!  38 front, 34 rear, incidently.

Total: $188 + the oil I supplied @ $84 = $272

Car is going like a dream... really happy with its first year.  

And a quick PS: Service manager at first questioned my choice of oil as it was not C3 that they would have used. He immediately accepted it when I started to quote oil specs to him. I must have sounded convincing. Diesel in Oz needs B4 only but of course will not be harmed by use of C3, in case some were wondering.
 

[Dazzler]

Thanks Pip, very interesting 

[Shambles]

Thanks for all that Pip - a good read

... the looseness is closer to the rack than the steering wheel which was subject to a TSB that identified an out of tolerance "collar or gear" at the top of the steering column, from memory since we don't have them to view any more.
...

The TSB was 04908 and the affected models are "First production to 14 April, 2008" with affected VIN range from "First production to KMHDC51ER8U098836"

Electric Power Steering (EPS) Worm Shaft
Flexible Coupling Replacement (F/Fix)

HTH

Thanks for all that Pip - a good read

... the looseness is closer to the rack than the steering wheel which was subject to a TSB that identified an out of tolerance "collar or gear" at the top of the steering column, from memory since we don't have them to view any more.
...

The TSB was 04908 and the affected models are "First production to 14 April, 2008" with affected VIN range from "First production to KMHDC51ER8U098836"

Electric Power Steering (EPS) Worm Shaft
Flexible Coupling Replacement (F/Fix)

HTH

Thanks for that Shambles. I remember now I checked the VIN number against that before the info was taken down and mine is later. So less likely to be that, except the click-clack noise appears to me to come from right near the steering wheel. I'm leaving the diagnosis up the the service guy though. His problem, not mine and he seemed eager to do something about it.

I also checked the tyre pressures that were "adjusted" during the service. My gauge and the one at the service station I use to pump the tyres say they set them at... wait for it... 24/18 psi. Even the label on the car says to use 32 all round.

I don't understand this. I pumped them up again to my own preference, 38/34 psi.

[sparki30]

I took mine in for it's 2nd service the other week and told them about the steeing play/rattle problem (and took the TSB in, thanks Shambles) they said the rack needed replacing. Took it in yesterday for the work to be carried out, picked it up and they said they did not change the rack but found a bush worn on one of the rack fixing bolts, they have also agreed to change the steering column as there is a slight knocking. But I have to say that this bush as transformed the car from a rattly buzzy car to as it was when new and the play in the steering has gone.

Now this thread has been woken again I realise I should have followed up on this before.  No further work has been done to fix the rack rattle nor the click-clack. Reason being that the service manager has not contacted me since even though I saw him again a while back when I gave him my wife's Getz. He again said he would get back to me but hasn't. Pretty slack I'd say and I must chase him again. For the moment I'm without it anyway while I get hail damage fixed.

OT, since I'm driving the Getz more I'm surprised at what a fun drive it is. Not luxury but fun. It's interesting to note that the i30 needs to have the low gears swapped often (because of the 1000 rpm minimum) but once up to 4th or 5th then it will take on all terain. The Getz on the other hand is very flexible in the low gears but needs 3,4 and 5 swapped a lot to keep momentum up, particularly in the hills. It's been a while since I saw 5k and 6k rpm and heard what that sounds like... not much real progress compared to the effortless i30 diesel but still fun.  8)

[2i30s]

go to where i go pip,they are helpful,totally,apart from the crap oil. 

go to where i go pip,they are helpful,totally,apart from the crap oil. 

Ha, I gotcha.

[MRH130]

OT, since I'm driving the Getz more I'm surprised at what a fun drive it is. Not luxury but fun. It's interesting to note that the i30 needs to have the low gears swapped often (because of the 1000 rpm minimum) but once up to 4th or 5th then it will take on all terain. The Getz on the other hand is very flexible in the low gears but needs 3,4 and 5 swapped a lot to keep momentum up, particularly in the hills. It's been a while since I saw 5k and 6k rpm and heard what that sounds like... not much real progress compared to the effortless i30 diesel but still fun.  8)

hear, hear! now stick some big fat wheels on it and you'll have a real larf. There's nothing particularly spectacular about them but driving mine always putz a smile on my face. 

[FLYPEJOCK]

Any word back from your service guy pip?

I have an I30 diesel wagon which has covered 13,200 kms in ten months.

When manoeuvring out of my garage in the morning I have noticed a clunking noise coming from the steering column/rack and suspect it is the same issue as yours.

My local dealer (Keema Brisbane) were shocking when I took the car in complaining of a foul smell from the aircon - they replaced the pollen filter which made no difference - so I don't hold out any great hope of them repairing the issue unless I am armed with knowledge.

Also should I be taking my own oil for the 15000km service?  Is there a problem with the oil Hyundai dealers supply

Thanks

[Dazzler]

Also should I be taking my own oil for the 15000km service?  Is there a problem with the oil Hyundai dealers supply

Thanks

Hi FLYPEJOCK .. I think most who take their own oil do it as a cost saving measure (some dealers charge A$90 to A$100 for oil that you can supply yourself for say A$40 if you shop around... ) although on the other hand a couple of members have had their dealers put lower spec oil in than what is specified 

[Shambles]

...their dealers put lower spec oil in than what is specified 

And even the wrong oil on one occasion

Any word back from your service guy pip?

I have an I30 diesel wagon which has covered 13,200 kms in ten months.

When manoeuvring out of my garage in the morning I have noticed a clunking noise coming from the steering column/rack and suspect it is the same issue as yours.

My local dealer (Keema Brisbane) were shocking when I took the car in complaining of a foul smell from the aircon - they replaced the pollen filter which made no difference - so I don't hold out any great hope of them repairing the issue unless I am armed with knowledge.

Also should I be taking my own oil for the 15000km service?  Is there a problem with the oil Hyundai dealers supply

Thanks

I don't have my car at the moment so no I haven't any more yet.

WRT oil: you can take whatever they give you and that will vary from dealer to dealer and time to time I suspect. Whether that oil is what you want is hard to tell because unless you ask specifics you simply won't know. And in that vein, unless you also know what you want (or don't want) then you probably don't care... and that understandably and not unreasonably is the position most owners hold.

Those here, including you, probably do care because we are not representaive of "most owners" simply by being members of an owners club!

So to anwser the question more directly on whether you should take your own, yes is my recommendation if for no other reason than at least that way you know what it is.

If you want to use the best oil in the belief that your engine will last longer, then buy that. If you just want to save money then buy the cheapest that satisfies the documented requirements. Else do something in between, although I think if you are not motivated by either of the first two options you might just as well accept the dealer's oil.

OTOH the dealer's oil will probably cost you about the same as any top-shelf oil you can buy yourself so from my point-of-view you might as well get your own good stuff if you are prepared to pay that price.

If you decide to choose you own oil I also recommend you verify with the service manager that it is suitable and accepted before you buy it.

Any word back from your service guy pip?

You prompted me to chase him and as I got my car back I did.

I went to see him and we had a similar conversation to the two previous except this time he decided to put in a warranty request to Hy to replace the rack. I'm now waiting once more for his next move although this time I do expect he will follow through.

Although the "click-clack" seems to eminate from the steering column inside the car he still does not think its related to the TSB describing play in a "collar" just below the steering wheel if only because this known fault does not affect my VIN range.

So we'll see.

I might add that when going over cobbles or corrugations, it certainly does sound like rack-rattle which was my own diagnosis when I first heard it. It is surprisingly loud and quite alarming.

[FLYPEJOCK]

Pip,

thanks for the update.

I  decided to take my car to the local dealer (Keema Mount Gravatt, Brisbane) as there something was obviously wrong with the steering.

The car has come back with no issues.  My wife, who dropped the car off and picked it up, was told by the service manager that they had tightened up the steering yoke.  I am not entirely sure what this means but it has done the trick!

My car is a July 09 built i30sx cw crdi.

Cheers

[agentr31]

it connects the steering rack to the steering column!

Just had a call from service manager... he has a new rack to put in. Let's see... nine months since I reported the problem.

In next week.

Ok, went in today.

Just had a call from the (new) service manager to say it's been done but unfortunately it didn't fix the click-clack that I suspected all along, but was unable to convince them, was the collar that is identified in the TSB and has been spoken of here before.  I'm guessing that's what they will replace next time.

That's not the end of it though. He told me that the ESP light is now on and the error code indicates the steering angle sensor is faulty. That it was all ok before they got it seems to fall on deaf ears as he reckons he saw the ESP light on when he drove it in to the workshop. That's either true or BS, you take your pick but I know which. It's perfectly fine when I drop it off and then it's not 10 minutes later. I don't believe in coincidences. Nor do I enjoy being taken for a fool!

Even worse is now they don't want to continue with it and I have to take it to their "other" workshop which is bloody miles away.

I'm not surprised though, said to my wife after we took it in that it would most probably come back unfixed. She said something uncomplimentary about my negativity.

Sometimes you just know...

[agentr31]

i feel for you man... unless i do something myself, then its never done right... i must look like a sucker

[2i30s]

so you've got to take it to dandenong to be repaired?  they wont jerk you around there.!  

[Dazzler]

Not good Pip I hate that sort of crap..

Thanks guys for the sympathy and yes 2i30s, you are correct. I remember you use them, hope your faith is warranted.

When I picked up the car (after hours, so parked in street) I noticed immediately as I grabbed the wheel to take the weight off the locking pin that it spun in my hands as I applied the normal amount of force to turn a "dead" wheel... Hello? seemed to be powered already. Turned the key and started the car and along with the ESP light I was warned about, I saw EPS as well.

While the power steering logic might also need input from the steering position sensor it does not explain to me why it appears to be powered all the time - even with ignition turned off and key out!

I guess it won't take any (or very little) power when the servo is quiesced and I won't have a flat battery tomorrow but I do wonder what has been left unplugged or damaged.

Now I wonder whether the wheel alignment (I presume just toe) was done properly. Tyre wear was perfect up till now.

From where I am now, the click-clack seemed most acceptable.

[Dazzler]

Power to the wheel with the ignition off is a real worry.. I sure hope it doesn't drain your battery..

I would be reporting their incompetance to Hyundai Australia (if you haven't already)

Quick update on power steering (EPS) and stability control (ESP) error indicators lit. I checked it this morning just to see if the battery was still ok and guess what? Yep, all normal again and steering was hard as a rock until engine started... totally normal and no indicators. ESP toggles on and off with the switch (it didn't last night).

I just booked it in for a look-see at the dealer tomorrow. At least I have a screen-print of the diagnostic from the first guy to take along. Shows error: C1260 - Steering Angle Sensor. Self healing? Doubt it.

Waiting...

Went to the dealer's other workshop and waited for 2.5 hours while they had the car.  Short story, they adjusted the steering angle sensor and all is back to normal with no errors.

When I asked about the click-clack they said they didn't notice it even though I repeated the whole story initially and pointed out that this is where we came in.  

So they took it back and had another look but confess to having no idea except a certainty that it's not the collar/spacer I kept suggesting (I guess I'll drop that idea ) because of a certainty that it's outside the car.

On the way back I dropped into the first dealer to see if he could take the car back to the guy he outsourced the wheel alignment to and have the wheel centralised. He did and they did and now I'm right back where I started.

To continue the chase for the click-clack they suggested I book it in and expect 2 days to find it... $30 please for a loan car!

I'll sit on it for the time being...

[Mutley]

Wow, you arent having much luck are you Pip!

[2i30s]

so you've got to take it to dandenong to be repaired?  they wont jerk you around there.!  

[Dazzler]

Hey Pip... I get the impression you are a bit of a tough cookie (don't put up with crap)

If they are mucking you around, some of our more "meek and mild" members would have no show 

Hey Pip... I get the impression you are a bit of a tough cookie (don't put up with crap)

If they are mucking you around, some of our more "meek and mild" members would have no show  

Interesting you should think that. I might have sold that persona here but in fact I'm a real softy and get trodden on all the time... "is that right dear?... ok I thought so".

I have to say I'm still a little disappointed but having worked in the technical service industry for a lifetime I do understand these things are often just the way it is.

I suspect it will come down to systematic replacements until the problem is fixed. I just need to accept that!

And Dandenong have been quite reasonable, particularly booking me in almost immediately even if it was a continuation of their own repair.

I'm not sure that the new rack hasn't a different feel though. Maybe it's just new or maybe it did solve something. I'm interested in tackling a rough corugated road which was diabolical before.

As has been mentioned before here, when stopped at the lights for instance and "twiddling" the wheel you can feel the servo adding power and letting go again such that the wheel alternately feels free and stiff as the servo kicks in/out. Anyone else feel that? Anyway that sensation seems to be significantly reduced now which makes no sense because that would be an electronic or firmware control and I was assured no updates of this kind were performed. I guess I stopped "playing" with it a while back (careful... ) and the recent change has just got me fiddling again and I forget how it was.

I'm going to sit on it (careful again... ) and just keep mentioning it at the annual services in case something comes to light in the interim.

Thanks for listening.

[eye30]

Just a question which has bothered me while following this thread:

When you turn a corner or move from the straight ahead does the steering return return to the centre/straight ahead with hardly any intervention from yourself?