[paleace]

Hi i30 community,

I have 3 cars that I cannot decide between. Here are the cars:

2011 crdi sx
https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Hyundai-i30-2011/SSE-AD-4694489/?Cr=5
2009 crdi slx
https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Hyundai-i30-2009/SSE-AD-4463892/?Cr=2
2009 sonata
HYUNDAI SONATA 2009 AUTO DIESEL LOW KMS | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Gold Coast City - Broadbeach | 1147664288

The 2009 slx is appealing because it has the extra features (6 speaker, climate control, alloys etc.) and a little less ks on it.
The 2011 is a newer model however lacks some features of the slx and has more ks.
The 2009 sonata is far cheaper and has more power/torque, but it's an older gen and I have heard about acceleration hesitation problems with it. Do all hyundai turbodiesels suffer from accel hesitation or turbo lag?

Thanks for your help.

[elantraelite]

The Sonata has the older 2.0 diesel engine which also has a timing belt. Power and torque figures aren't that great compared to the 1.6 diesel in the i30.

Stay way from the 4spd auto of the i30. If you go the i30, look at a 6spd manual.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[elantraelite]

Also, to answer your question about turbo lag. The 1.6 diesel is a brilliant engine. Never really noticed turbo lag unless you give it a kick in the guts from a stand still.

The trick to driving a diesel is taking it easy on take off and keeping the revs in the engines sweet spot, which is pretty easy between 1750 rpm and 2750rpm.

I love 3rd gear in the i30 manual, power and torque, it just takes off like a bull.

Fuel economy is excellent. My FD wagon has always averaged between 5 - 5.6 litres per 100km more often than not getting 1000km out of a tank

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[elantraelite]

If you do decide on the auto, go over it with a fine tooth comb. They have a common problem with the valve body giving up

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[The Gonz]

Guess which one I would pick.

[tw2005]

Guess which one I would pick.

The cheapest

[tw2005]

Excluding the Sonata, looking at the Ks , age and price . I think there should be plenty to choose from including a CW for that money.


Sonata rego does not come up in a search, looks good, just get a bad vibe.

the 2011 is not the original plates, the 2009 Model would be.

2011 models on have Bluetooth Stereo

new model release should push FD prices down.

May be worth watching a few Auctions, ex Gov and see how much cheaper if they're still disposing.

Pickles has a 2010 SX auto, ex gov 51k , 22 May 17, description is weird. Says 12/08 build , 03/10 compliance. It's actually 12/09 build.

I have a 2008 hatch and a 2010 CW, both SLX spec and CRDi. Both Auto, Both High K. 2008 has had the VB replaced, and very close to 200 000k. Also recently had to replace the drivers window mech(common failure) and clockspring in steering wheel(erratic steering buttons)

The Wagon, is a rebirth 180000k and I stripped it out and swapped an entire car's worth of gear from a pranged 41K CW.

Love them both. hatch gives me great economy, wagon is a mystery  at 1 L / 100 more.

the wagon has reasonably good legroom and headroom in it. I find it has a more compliant ride where my hatch is definitely firm.

have not driven one with the 15" tyres but the 16" Alloys and good rubber are a good combo.

[paleace]

Thanks everyone for the informative replies.

Unfortunately it has to be auto and my budget (9k-ish) and fuel economy needs only allows for 4spds, cause any higher gear is either too fuel hungry or too expensive. i30 was the most appealing out of my 4sp slush box list because of the features, fuel economy and low end torque.

I have heard that 4spds are not that bad in some diesels cause it keeps the car in its power band quite nicely or is this not the case?

@elantraelite, is that the EGR valve problem that pops up a lot on these forums? Is this problem very common that it will likely happen if I get one of these autos? I will be getting the car checked, but I'm worried that it may be overlooked by the mechanic. Do you suggest that I stick with something like a corolla or yaris rather than risk getting an i30 auto with that valve problem?

[Dazzler]

Hi Paleace and

You are right, the Diesel does cope relatively well with the 4 speed auto transmission. The biggest negative is the fuel economy which takes quite a hit compared to the 5 and 6 speed manuals. For example the FD manual was rated at 4.7 L/100 kms (more like 5.4 L/100 in the real world) whereas the Auto was rated at 6.0 L/100kms.. (usually but not always quite a bit higher in the real world)

From my observations on here most of the throttle body transmission failures were 2009/2010 vehicles for some reason. If it's on the way out the first thing to happen (apparently) is a delay when selecting reverse before anything happens and also with forward progress. We have quite a few very happy FD 4 speed Auto owners on her including @Phil №❶ (who has 2 of them)

As the others have said the i30's would be a better bet than the Sonata.

[Phil №❶]

yes, both car transmissions working fine 1 has 100k + and ours 74k. Just make sure the trans oil is cleaned regularly.

[nzenigma]

@elantraelite, is that the EGR valve problem that pops up a lot on these forums? Is this problem very common that it will likely happen if I get one of these autos? I will be getting the car checked, but I'm worried that it may be overlooked by the mechanic. Do you suggest that I stick with something like a corolla or yaris rather than risk getting an i30 auto with that valve problem?

Dazz and Phil have an alternative perspective on the transmissions, I'm with them
 In my work, I see a lot of i30s ( an excellent German designed and reliable vehicle). Many with 4 speed autos and I have not had one failure. That incudes my wife's 2009 2.0L FD auto that has now done 110,000km.
 The EGR (Exhaust Gas Return) issues only relate to diesel motors. ( same in virtually all makes). It can be eliminated by simply fitting a plate to the return pipe or by using a spray pack cleaner when doing each service..

Occasionally, we have discussions about some fault, often heightened by poor dealer PR and a resistance to do repairs under warranty. This can be the catalyst of fake news

 Conversely , we don't usually have members independently telling us about the marvellous operation of some mechanical part .

[paleace]

Ok so I have settled on the idea of getting a diesel i30, I found a 2008 crdi SLX auto with 118ks done for 7.3k with servicing etc:\

2008 Hyundai i30 SLX Auto

and I could probably get it down to the 6000s, but it doesn't have cruise control which is a real bummer because I found that they cost around $900 to fit aftermarket. Is it worth getting a 2009 or 2011 model crdi (similar ks) with cruise control for an extra $2-3k? Or is the 2008 a good deal if I can get it in the $6000 range? I don't want to rush this but I also really need a car as I live far away from work and have to share one.

Thanks for the help!

[Dazzler]

If you can get it down into the 6's and it drives well, I'd be tempted to live without cruise. 

Definitely get a full mechanical or RAC check though...It is getting on for 9 years old.

[tw2005]

looks like it could be a gem, if one owner and books. Shame about no CC, must be early 2008.

Check condition and colour of trans fluid or establish when flushed.

Find some rough uneven roads and listen out for steering knocks and rattles, most noticeable at low speeds.

[paleace]

Ok thanks for the swift replies guys. Just a question about the trans fluid, sometimes the outside of the container holding it is dirty and you can't really see the fluid inside, what's a good way to tell if it has been flushed recently, should i use a syringe and draw some fluid up to check the clarity?
 
Also for suspension I'm really used to having rattles and knocks so I'm not sure if I'll be able to tell the difference since I've never driven a car with proper suspension in a long time. Is rocking the car up and down while it's stationary a good way to tell if it has problems?

Thanks

[tw2005]

Ok thanks for the swift replies guys. Just a question about the trans fluid, sometimes the outside of the container holding it is dirty and you can't really see the fluid inside, what's a good way to tell if it has been flushed recently, should i use a syringe and draw some fluid up to check the clarity?
 
Also for suspension I'm really used to having rattles and knocks so I'm not sure if I'll be able to tell the difference since I've never driven a car with proper suspension in a long time. Is rocking the car up and down while it's stationary a good way to tell if it has problems?

Thanks

White clothe or paper towel, pull the dipstick out and have a look. Nice pink colour and it's pretty new, dark amber brown, could do with a change, black - walk away. Don't know what your on about external container. I'm talking the auto gearbox.

the rattles are with in the steering system, maybe get a proper ispection. I'd expect with these Ks and if serviced , this should be driving pretty good. Mine knocks in the steering, still drives fine at 200000k.

Not a bad price, looks pretty well looked after in the pictures.

[nzenigma]

Tw2005 has summed it all up.
This is an excellent model. Frankly, the lack of cruise would not worry me. I rarely use it , and never when I am in even mild traffic.
The car as portrayed , looks good. The price is fair. If the owner is prepared to sell it for $6k, I would be worried, he sounds reasonably intelligent, possibly an experienced    seller.
Get a Revs check before you commit to buying, ( will show debts, early insurance write off ) and also get a good mechanic to run an eye over it.
Log books will show a continuation of registration and ownership.

[beerman]

What you lose in cruise, you make up with SLX.

Unless you drive hundreds of highway k's a week, I wouldn't worry too much.

[Phil №❶]

Cruise $900 later model $2000 so unless the later model has features you really want, it's a no brainer IMO.

[paleace]

Ok so I test drove the 2008 crdi today and had a quick look. The owner's friend was showing it to me. The oil was pitch black, but the friend said this is normal in diesel. The transmission fluid was an orange/amber colour. They have the invoice for an oil change, tyre change and minor service on January this year from a non-hyundai service. The drive was fine, no sounds or anything that I could hear, but for some reason it didn't feel as good as the 2009 even though it's the same engine, it just felt maybe a tad sluggish but maybe that's just me. The ad price was actually increased to 8k recently, but they would honor the 7.3k price from before. I asked if it could be lower and he said that he'll ask the owner but that it would be unlikely the price would move much from 7.3k.

I messaged the 2009 crdi people and offered them 8k, they wrote back saying that they'll check if they can do 8.5k, still haven't replied. So if they are good for 8.3k I think i'll be going with them, if they don't ill go with the 2008.

[Dazzler]

Sounds like you are doing it right. Working through the options and taking your time. 

[tw2005]

reg due 1 july, black oil is the norm , even after a change there's enough residual to blacken fresh oil

[nzenigma]

The owner's friend was showing it to me.

 it didn't feel as good as the 2009 even though it's the same engine, it just felt maybe a tad sluggish but maybe that's just me.

"Owners friend", read dealer.

 
With respect, as a novice you can notice a difference. I would suggest that there is more to be found; trust your gut, not the friend.

would be unlikely the price would move much from 7.3k.

I messaged the 2009 crdi people and offered them 8k, they wrote back saying that they'll check if they can do 8.5k, still haven't replied. So if they are good for 8.3k I think i'll be going with them, if they don't ill go with the 2008.

 
1. If you messaged me, I would regard you as a time waster . You are about to spend $7- $8000 !!! why don't you TALK to people. Its also just plain courtesy, he is doing You a favour by offering you a good car that he may feel sorry to lose . Also, rule one of the negotiator, " If You Listen, You Learn".

 
2. If it is the better car why dick about over $200. The service on the other one will cost that much or more..

[tw2005]

The owner's friend was showing it to me.

 it didn't feel as good as the 2009 even though it's the same engine, it just felt maybe a tad sluggish but maybe that's just me.

"Owners friend", read dealer.

 
With respect, as a novice you can notice a difference. I would suggest that there is more to be found; trust your gut, not the friend.

would be unlikely the price would move much from 7.3k.

I messaged the 2009 crdi people and offered them 8k, they wrote back saying that they'll check if they can do 8.5k, still haven't replied. So if they are good for 8.3k I think i'll be going with them, if they don't ill go with the 2008.

 
1. If you messaged me, I would regard you as a time waster . You are about to spend $7- $8000 !!! why don't you TALK to people. Its also just plain courtesy, he is doing You a favour by offering you a good car that he may feel sorry to lose . Also, rule one of the negotiator, " If You Listen, You Learn".

 
2. If it is the better car why dick about over $200. The service on the other one will cost that much or more..

 

If you're serious about the white one, $8500 is a decent drop on the ask price , new tyres and what appears to be solid service history.

The old man got around that as a trade on his, 120k on the clock.

@nzenigma  I'm about to message you

[Dazzler]

  Some of us are tighter than others... 

Text message V Phone call..

$200 ... 

But you guys do make some valid points... 

[paleace]

Ok so I looked at another 2009 slx crdi (117ks) advertised for 9.9 today and he agreed to 8.5k. The 100k service has been done however the 120k service hasn't been done. It has registration till next year February. The following are the only problems I really saw with it:

- when I first opened the car it didn't start up right away it had to crank for a good 4 secs then started. After this is started perfectly every time.
-The window in the passenger seat doesnt work properly, it goes down but doesnt go up. The driver side and rear windows work both ways. I was thinking it shouldn't  be that expensive to fix is this correct? 
-The engine bay seems to be a little shaky when the car is running, is this normal?
-The grey paint on the steering wheel (where the CC and volume control setting and are) also have paint wear on the edges.

I am going to be doing a pre purchase on it and hopefully get it by next week if I get the all clear.

[tw2005]

Ok so I looked at another 2009 slx crdi (117ks) advertised for 9.9 today and he agreed to 8.5k. The 100k service has been done however the 120k service hasn't been done. It has registration till next year February. The following are the only problems I really saw with it:

- when I first opened the car it didn't start up right away it had to crank for a good 4 secs then started. After this is started perfectly every time.
-The window in the passenger seat doesnt work properly, it goes down but doesnt go up. The driver side and rear windows work both ways. I was thinking it shouldn't  be that expensive to fix is this correct? 
-The engine bay seems to be a little shaky when the car is running, is this normal?
-The grey paint on the steering wheel (where the CC and volume control setting and are) also have paint wear on the edges.

I am going to be doing a pre purchase on it and hopefully get it by next week if I get the all clear.

Have you started a diesel before? Glow plugs could be tired but since I have 2, the lower K unit fires up much easier straight after the glow plug lamp goes out. Generally I give mine a few secs after that then crank. the colder it is the harder it can be sometimes.

if it does not start after a couple of cranks, I restart the start procedure. I don't just keep cranking in hope.

As for the window, if you can fix things yourself, should be cheap. Couls be a bad switch . My front pass goes up and down on th e master switch, at the local switch, goes down , not up.

What happened to the white low K unit?

[The Gonz]

Of all that, the most concerning to me might be the vibration in the engine bay (maybe check mounts) electric window solution might just turn out to be the switch. As for the steering wheel, disassembly and spraying it your favourite colour(s) is SuperCheap.

*Damn you, TW, your finger was faster - today.

[paleace]

What happened to the white low K unit?

It got sold, didn't receive a reply from them. The problem with them was that the 90k service wasn't stamped in the service book, so I'm thinking it may have not been done. The car I'm looking at now has the 100k service stamped, and I'll have to worry about 120k one which is alright I guess. If the engine mounts are bad do you think I could use that and the windows as another bargaining chip to lower it more, because I would be spending a bit to get them in shape.

If it had it's last stamped service at 100,000km then it's next service would be due at 115,000km, service requirement is 15,000km or 12 months - which ever occurs first.