[constipated]

Hi all,

6.5 year old FD i30 6 speed manual i30 and problems are starting to creep in. Every issue I have had, I google and up crops someone else with the issue on this forum (clutch shudder, broken power window).

I've noticed my clutch bite point is now starting only a few cm off the floor. Which means that I have to be super careful to push it all the way to the floor to change gears. If it's even a cm off from fully down you can run into resistance pushing it into gear.

I see someone has commented that they had this problem and that it may have been a damper issue on the master cylinder.

Low clutch bite point resolution

My mechanic does not deal with a lot of Hyundai's. He's mentioned a few times he feels they aren't as reliable as Japanese. I suspect when I bring it to him in a few weeks he may just suggest a new master cylinder. I'll show him this thread.

Anyone know what the price of these might be? I've searched ebay and they don't seem very common. Only second hand or aftermarket slave cylinders.

[Dazzler]

Sorry to hear that. Your mechanic might be right to a certain extent. Depending on the brand. Toyota's do seem very reliable. I know Hondas have a few quirky faults from time to time and I don't think Mitsubishis are any more reliable than hyundais, probably less so. Not sure about Mazda.

[mickd]

Hi,
Check out "Diesel " section ,  then "gear shift problems ".
That's about the  latest post.  👍

[tw2005]

This is one of those questions I'd love to hear answered from @cruiserfied .

I'm still trying to understand the setup as from what I've read I believe these are self adjusting clutches. I am wondering as the driven plate reaches it's thickness limit if this has something to do with it. Mine whilst functional is starting to have that feel where there's not a lot of slip left and sometimes a small amount of shudder plus the pedal has to be buried also..

[tw2005]

Hi all,

6.5 year old FD i30 6 speed manual i30 and problems are starting to creep in. Every issue I have had, I google and up crops someone else with the issue on this forum (clutch shudder, broken power window).

I've noticed my clutch bite point is now starting only a few cm off the floor. Which means that I have to be super careful to push it all the way to the floor to change gears. If it's even a cm off from fully down you can run into resistance pushing it into gear.

I see someone has commented that they had this problem and that it may have been a damper issue on the master cylinder.

Low clutch bite point resolution

My mechanic does not deal with a lot of Hyundai's. He's mentioned a few times he feels they aren't as reliable as Japanese. I suspect when I bring it to him in a few weeks he may just suggest a new master cylinder. I'll show him this thread.

Anyone know what the price of these might be? I've searched ebay and they don't seem very common. Only second hand or aftermarket slave cylinders.

Thanks for that link, I may try that myself. The bite point is driving me nuts and very uncomfortable . My only real annoyance with it.

[constipated]

Thanks for that link, I may try that myself. The bite point is driving me nuts and very uncomfortable . My only real annoyance with it.

How many kms has your car done out of interest.

[tw2005]

Thanks for that link, I may try that myself. The bite point is driving me nuts and very uncomfortable . My only real annoyance with it.

How many kms has your car done out of interest.

381000K, can't confirm history. has books with stamps but no detail. Only had it a short while but definitely country hwy  with lots of dirt roads. Not an oil leak in sight, runs well and all original trans and motor. No gear noise, or anything really except maybe the motor is a little noisier but in cabin you'd never know,

[constipated]

381000K, can't confirm history. has books with stamps but no detail. Only had it a short while but definitely country hwy  with lots of dirt roads.

Well maybe that means I have another 280,000 km before my clutch really becomes a problem. 

[tw2005]

381000K, can't confirm history. has books with stamps but no detail. Only had it a short while but definitely country hwy  with lots of dirt roads.

Well maybe that means I have another 280,000 km before my clutch really becomes a problem. 

Not sure but I'm pretty impressed. Hooked trailer to it for the first time. These little diesels just keep performing, barely notice it attached.

[tw2005]

very good video and what he describes is pretty much what I'm experiencing . Starting to seem this is a common fault over time.

Hyundai i30 2007 clutch problems. Fault finding and repair. - YouTube

[cruiserfied]

First thing to check would be the clutch fluid. Slaves can leak into the boot but not show unless you pull the boot back. Master maybe but very uncommon.
My most likely scenario would be that at 30000km+ your clutch plate has possible just simply reached the end of its wear life.

[tw2005]

First thing to check would be the clutch fluid. Slaves can leak into the boot but not show unless you pull the boot back. Master maybe but very uncommon.
My most likely scenario would be that at 30000km+ your clutch plate has possible just simply reached the end of its wear life.

Fluid checked, no leaks, flushed, no change. A number of people have recently reported similar issues and with lack of travel or what appears to be clutch disengagement issues and  less distance travelled.

In my case there does not seem to appear to be a lack of clamping pressure.

The piece I can't put together is how you end up with such a low bite point and barely releasing the clutch.

Old school was the pedal would get higher as it wore with little to none free play.

What am I missing here Tim?

[Paolo5]

If the original damper IS deemed to be at fault, it would make more sense to me to replace it with a new one (if it is available) rather than blanking it off with a sump plug.

Does anyone know if Hyundai has the damper mentioned here available as a separate part?

[tw2005]

If the original damper IS deemed to be at fault, it would make more sense to me to replace it with a new one (if it is available) rather than blanking it off with a sump plug.

Does anyone know if Hyundai has the damper mentioned here available as a separate part?

   
416902H900

Not sure if that's just the damper or the whole master plus the damper as I have not found a separate number for the master yet.

I wil try bypassing it at some stage just for my own curiosity. I have seen tech bulletins for issues in other makes Like Holden Rodeo from Exedy pointing to damper issues contributiing to clutch release problems.

http://www.exedy.com.au/assets/files/technotes/TN016.pdf

"It has been found that disengagement concern experienced with the subject vehicles have been incorrectly diagnosed as
a faulty clutch.
This incorrect diagnosis has resulted in a clutch kit being fitted, followed by the fitting of replacement Master
and Slave
Cylinders, and the vehicle still found to have a gear selection problem.
These vehicles are fitted with a Clutch Damper similar to that illustrated between the Clutch Master Cylinder and the
Slave Cylinder.
It has been found that the Clutch Damper has been the cause of the problem, with the cup bypassing fluid and/
or the Damper Rubber compressing, which in turn restricts the fluid flow necessary to obtain the required slave cylinder travel"

[Paolo5]

Now THAT was quick!
Many thanks for the exploded diagram!

[Paolo5]

 :-[I just found this on Ebay by entering the 41690 part number on the exploded diagram:-
TUCSON 06-10 SPORTAGE 06-10 GeNuiNe CLUTCH REGULATOR 416902E070 | eBay

It doesn't have the thread for the tube to the slave cylinder on the top (like the one in the diagram) but at least it shows how it is sold.

[constipated]

Hyundai i30 2007 clutch problems. Fault finding and repair. - YouTube

That's the best damn explanation video I have EVER seen.

Not only do I understand master and slave cylinders now but this is my exact problem.

Years ago I mentioned how I could feel a pulsation on my clutch pedal just pressing it very lightly. Maybe this was a sign the damper was already worn.

I'm going to raise up whether the mechanic can try removing the damper as a first step.

Is the plug he uses to replace the damper (oil sump plug he says) a pretty standard part that would be available to any mechanic?

[nzenigma]

It was a good video, top marks. He seems to have dealt with the problem.
however a 300,000km setup may also have the worn parts he talks about at the end of the vid.

tw, From my what I see in shed 2, the clutch is not self adjusting.
 If I get time I will pull a clutch off a flywheel and check that these are solid flywheels. That is why they have a damper.
Most larger diesel motors have a dual mass flywheel that smooths out the inherent lumpiness when engaging the clutch.
They are a spring loaded affair and usually fail within five years. The damper is a much better arrangement.
If you eliminate the damper you will get the vibration, but so do a lot of 'real men' who change to a solid fly wheel. 

[tw2005]

It was a good video, top marks. He seems to have dealt with the problem.
however a 300,000km setup may also have the worn parts he talks about at the end of the vid.

tw, From my what I see in shed 2, the clutch is not self adjusting.
 If I get time I will pull a clutch off a flywheel and check that these are solid flywheels. That is why they have a damper.
Most larger diesel motors have a dual mass flywheel that smooths out the inherent lumpiness when engaging the clutch.
They are a spring loaded affair and usually fail within five years. The damper is a much better arrangement.
If you eliminate the damper you will get the vibration, but so do a lot of 'real men' who change to a solid fly wheel. 

even more confused now, where the heck is the adjustment then?

[constipated]

If the damper is worn it won't really be doing an effective job at the moment. What are the potential implications of removing it?

[tw2005]

If the damper is worn it won't really be doing an effective job at the moment. What are the potential implications of removing it?

I reckon the fluid will squirt out

If it happens to just be a worn clutch plate and not a failing part in the hydraulics then something like the clutch pedal adjuster might help get a bit more life from it Clutch Pedal Adjuster - Shark Racing

[nzenigma]

tw, From my what I see in shed 2, the clutch is not self adjusting.
 If I get time I will pull a clutch off a flywheel and check that these are solid flywheels. That is why they have a damper.

even more confused now, where the heck is the adjustment then?

Ah has bin an lookd massa!
Its a solid flywheel and just the usual sort of clutch driven and pressure plate.
The only truely adjustable clutch plate Ive come across was supposed to be on the BMW, but the replacement was just the common type.
As the driven plate wears, the fingers of the pressure plate protrude more, and get closer to the thrust bearing. I guess thats adjustable. 

If the damper is worn it won't really be doing an effective job at the moment. What are the potential implications of removing it?

Not much. You will/may feel a bit of vibration in the clutch pedal especially when you are wearing high heels. 

 

[kamikazeeugen]

excellent tip!
I will look at that damper in my GD to see iff i can remove'it.
After i changed the push rod pin and added the bearing, the clutch engagement is a little higher...but not like i want. I will try to remove the damper and i will post results.
Thank you!

[tw2005]

tw, From my what I see in shed 2, the clutch is not self adjusting.
 If I get time I will pull a clutch off a flywheel and check that these are solid flywheels. That is why they have a damper.

even more confused now, where the heck is the adjustment then?

Ah has bin an lookd massa!
Its a solid flywheel and just the usual sort of clutch driven and pressure plate.
The only truely adjustable clutch plate Ive come across was supposed to be on the BMW, but the replacement was just the common type.
As the driven plate wears, the fingers of the pressure plate protrude more, and get closer to the thrust bearing. I guess thats adjustable. 

If the damper is worn it won't really be doing an effective job at the moment. What are the potential implications of removing it?

Not much. You will/may feel a bit of vibration in the clutch pedal especially when you are wearing high heels. 

 

Is this a pull  type?

[tw2005]

If it happens to just be a worn clutch plate and not a failing part in the hydraulics then something like the clutch pedal adjuster might help get a bit more life from it Clutch Pedal Adjuster - Shark Racing

That's what I'd expect to find in most cars, an adjustable pushrod.

[nzenigma]

Is this a pull  type?
[/quote]

   ???  not sure that I should reply here.

[kamikazeeugen]

I removed the damper yesterday but no change in pedal travel till engagement point. Is still pretty low.

[tw2005]

I removed the damper yesterday but no change in pedal travel till engagement point. Is still pretty low.

Bad luck ( or good)

[kamikazeeugen]

Is not better or worse. Is the same as before. No vibrations in the clutch, but my car is 110k km only. The only improvement was when i have removed the slack in the push rod. before..i couldint engage gears. That was at 40k km. Bad idea to buy a demonstrator car!!! Now, engagement point is at aprox 5..10mm from the floor.
I will post some pictures with the things i have done there.
All the best!
Eugen